Troy Built Trimmer Wont Rev Up

bertsmobile1

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Your full of shit
No he is quite correct
A good spark will jump a 1/4" air gap which is why all of the engine makers try and sell us techs a very expensive 3 point spark tester.
Down side is than on hand helds the spark is very hard to see .
The Stihl Lightning clonee / copies that you see all over evilpay have a poor magneto
It will throw a spark when resting on the head
It won't throw a spark inside the cylinder .
Got caught out which a couple of those as there was a con artist who was buying the kits assembling them then selling them as "Restored Stihl chainsaws "
 

Jeff P51

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So u are telling me that if he grounds plug to head and gets a strong blue spark jumping across the spark plug electrode , that the coil could still be bad enough to prevent engine from starting or revving up? And im guessing this guy that wants to get his trimmer running doesn't have any fancy spark testing tools, and neither do I, and I've been able to determine a bad coil without it. Why do u people have to make things more difficult than they are..
 

Hammermechanicman

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Many 2 stroke engines have a spark advance built into them. I have seen ebay coils in stihl equipment have incorrect timing and no spark advance. I have seen ebay coils cause kickback, popping and spitting back out the carb, starting with no power.

And yes, the definitive test to see if the ignition system has the energy to run the engine is to see if it will jump a 1/4" or 6mm gap in air. This does not check the spark plug or the timing, just that there is enough energy to run the engine.
It is fairly difficult to check spark timing on a string trimmer. If it sparks we assume it is correct. I have 2 hopped up chainsaws with advanced timing. The difference between more power and a mistake is only a couple degrees.
 

Jeff P51

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Why dont u use all your knowledge and help this guy get his trimmer working?. Nobody was helping him, so I gave him some ideas and all I got was how my ideas were wrong. Im here to help if I can.
 

bertsmobile1

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So u are telling me that if he grounds plug to head and gets a strong blue spark jumping across the spark plug electrode , that the coil could still be bad enough to prevent engine from starting or revving up? And im guessing this guy that wants to get his trimmer running doesn't have any fancy spark testing tools, and neither do I, and I've been able to determine a bad coil without it. Why do u people have to make things more difficult than they are..
Because we fix these things on a daily basis
What appears to ba a good strong spark at atmospheric pressure can fail at combustion cylinder compression ( same for the plug )
There are 3 simple tools for testing the strength of a magneto's spark.
one is the 3 point tester , the next is a clip on spark plug with a 1/4" electrode gap and the last one is a HT lead with an adjustable gap.
All of them are around $ 20, not fancy or expensive & takes the guess work out of diagnosis
Back in the old days we used clear biro tube with a fixed wire in one end and a sliding wire at the other
Add to that hand helds are designed to run 7,000 rpm to 12,000 rpm
Magneto generated sparks tend always to appear poor at cranking speeds because the flywheel is turning so slow.
If the coil is wound to make a big fat blue spark at cranking speed then it will burn out at full revs.

If it had a capacitor discharge ignition or a battery coil ignition like your car then yes a fat blue spark at cranking speed is vital because both of those systems produce a better spark at idle than they do at running speeds because the coil has longer to saturate.

Your initial reply was very good .
It is quite rare for the flywheel keys to shear off , but it does happen I have seen 1 that sheared off in use and one that got mutilated durning assembly, and this is in 11years of roughly 300 invoices a year .

Now back to Bill's original problem.
Cases like this are near impossible to make a diagnosis on because he has just kept on throwing parts at the trimmer of unknown quality
I get at least 5 jobs through the gate every week where the owner has fitted cheap parts that were faulty right out the box.
Usually they insist that their new parts are all good and it has to be some sort of secret adjustments that they are unaware of because most will not accept that they could have made it worse.
So now we have a dubious coil, dubious carb , dubious spark plug . plus a trimmer that just quit during use
This is near impossible to sort out on a web forum as there are way too many variables to work through .

From what Bill has posted , the current problem appears to be a carb that is way out of adjustment and to me it sounds like it is starting & running on the high speed jet alone .
but it still could be the wrong or faulty coil so a badly timed or failing spark is limiting the revs

So if it came into my shop right now I would start by putting all of the old parts back on then seeing if it will start by itself or with carb cleaner down the plug hole .
If not then I remove the kill wires at the coil & try again with a flashing spark tester fitted ( my preferred tool also under $ 20 ) and a brand new spark plug , gapped as per the manual.
On mowers the gap is not all that important but on high reving hand helds accurate gaps are vital .
If it was confirmed that the coil was at fault ( fairly rare ) and not the kill wires or switch shorting ( very common ) then the magneto gets replaced with one from a know supplier of good quality parts and that rules out ebay , amazon , face book market , and even craigs list ( in the USA ) .

If the tool will not run properly when the new coil was fitted then the first suspect would be the new coil.
The coil has a timing chip in it and most of them are different however the mounting centres for coils tend to be fairly standard .
So a lot of wrong coils will bolt up and look right so the starting point would be to put a dab of paint on one of the fins to use as timing mark then a dab of paint on the body some where to correspond to TDC aligned with the dab of paint on the fin and hook up a timing light to see just where the spark is
If you are really into it then you can print out a timing disc for free , glue it to a piece of tim or alloy and actually measure the advance
printable timing disc
My first guess would be you have the wrong magneto , particularly as it has the same symptoms with both carbs, but a new plug correctly gapped is cheap and if not needed becomes a spare for latter on .
 
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Hammermechanicman

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Why dont u use all your knowledge and help this guy get his trimmer working?. Nobody was helping him, so I gave him some ideas and all I got was how my ideas were wrong. Im here to help if I can.
What was post #17?
 

StarTech

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First I don't usually fool with curve shaft string trimmer as they are so cheap and it takes just as much time to troubleshoot as the straight shaft brush cutter models.

Even through 2 cycles are simple engines everything has to be working in unison. Just about anything to intake, compression, and exhaust can cause one not work. Among things tested is compression and a pressure/vacuum tests.
 

BillCT

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I put it back together and tested the spark, visually. The spark is fat and purple. I used a rod in the plug wire grounded on the muffler. I didn't measure the gap but it was substantial. . I also tested the plug which is a new NGK grounded against the muffler and saw lots of spark, same color and not a weak thin yellow. Gap is set to .020.

I tried the suggestion of spraying a half second of starting fluid in the carb and starting. It did not rev up any more than usual and when it started it was pretty rich for a few seconds.( I know you did say to remove the carb but I thought this would be OK)
Since this engine ran exactly the same with the original carb as with the new carb I'm thinking the carb isn't the problem. And other than replacing the fuel lines and filter the only other new part is the coil.
It has 120 psi compression, if the crankcase seal was bad would it still have good compression? Are you referring to the crankcase cover gasket?
I've checked the wiring with a meter and neither the switch nor the wiring to the coil appears to be faulty.
Man it makes me grit my teeth to buy another coil but I hate to give up and set this thing out for target practice after all this. Also, both these coils I bought were made in China by the same company. I'm sure MTD could have had them made in China also.
Several parts places sell this coil (753-04336) for around $100 vs the eBay/Amazon $20 versions.. Sure wish I knew if that was it but it does kind of lead in that direction I guess.

I wish I hadn't thrown out the original coil, I can't believe I did that, I usually keep stuff forever.
 

bertsmobile1

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Inside the coil is a timing chip that basically replaces the points .
You can have 10 identical looking coils with 10 different chips that will cause the ignition to throw the spark at different times.
If the factory makes the entire magneto then it would be relatively safe to assume that two units with the same number on them were the same units.
However if that factory just stamped the metal laminations then assembled the unit from bought in parts then the 173 could be nothing more than a type 173 coil which could be fitted with a dozen different chips . we don't know.
Next a lot of trigger chips are fitted with a rev limiter so your "new" coil could be one of those where the limiting chip is cutting off the spark at 5000 rpm in place of 15,000 rpm
We don't know and this is the problem with unbranded parts from an annonomus source, way too many unknowns .
Now if it ran fine on the old carb and you did not fiddle with it then it should run fine with the new coil unless you did not hook up the throttle wire properly.
And yes this easily happens so the cable is not anchored properly thus does not open the throttle butterfly fully , which will of course limit the revs .

You don't have to buy everything from a dealer but you do have to buy them from some one who actually knows what they are selling you
SO these are places like,
e-replacement parts
Small engine warehouse
Barretts
K & C Mowers
Parts Tree
JacksSmall Engines
etc etc etc
GO back to the place you ordered it from and have a look at what else that vendor sells
If they are selling everything from maternity bras through to Condoms including trimmer parts then they are a residual / surplus seller and usually have less than no idea what they are actually selling
And if that includes both condoms & maternity wear then better than average chance what they are selling is defective .
 
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