The Daily Yardman Thread
- Thread starter Roger B
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Boobala
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Re: MTD Yardman Transaxle Rebuild
GOOOOOOOD Mornin Chuck, .... N U 2 Goomba !!
Giddy-up all the rest of my brethren, ....
(actually means Good Morn ! )
Thought 4 2day : ( 2 4 1 - SPECIAL 2day !! ) ... Special for Ron, ...
And for the rest of the world !! ....
... BUT it COULD apply to Ron with his .. "Door=Dilemma"
GOOOOOOOD Mornin Chuck, .... N U 2 Goomba !!
Giddy-up all the rest of my brethren, ....
(actually means Good Morn ! )Thought 4 2day : ( 2 4 1 - SPECIAL 2day !! ) ... Special for Ron, ...
And for the rest of the world !! ....
... BUT it COULD apply to Ron with his .. "Door=Dilemma"
Ronno6
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Re: Garage Doors
Hey, Rog,
Well. door #1 is partially completed: tracks shortened and installed, 4ea 19" panels installed, torsion spring installed and tensioned.
The door goes up and down just fine, leaving a 7" gap at the top.
Spring tension is a bit high, but that should work itself out after the weight of the remaining panel comes into play.
I am going to obtain a 1 x 8 board for testing purposes.
If it looks like the door will be operable with the short panel at the top, I'll trim the panel out to not look so patchwork
and install there. I may actually be able to affix it to the top of the existing metal door panel and it may clear everything as it swings inward.
If not, I'll hinge and roller it.
Then I have to determine where to attach the opener...
I'm sure it would work fine in the middle or at the bottom, but the bottom metal panel has the seal affixed with numerous spot welds, so removal is not a viable option.
The steel door is a typical unit made to look like is comprised of raised panel, style and rail construction which is embossed into the thin steel skin.
like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pella-Traditional-108-in-x-84-in-White-Single-Garage-Door/50259747
Putting the short panel in the middle would work, just look funky.
As there will be 2 doors side by side, symmetry is an issue.
Pics may follow later.........
Hey, Rog,
Well. door #1 is partially completed: tracks shortened and installed, 4ea 19" panels installed, torsion spring installed and tensioned.
The door goes up and down just fine, leaving a 7" gap at the top.
Spring tension is a bit high, but that should work itself out after the weight of the remaining panel comes into play.
I am going to obtain a 1 x 8 board for testing purposes.
If it looks like the door will be operable with the short panel at the top, I'll trim the panel out to not look so patchwork
and install there. I may actually be able to affix it to the top of the existing metal door panel and it may clear everything as it swings inward.
If not, I'll hinge and roller it.
Then I have to determine where to attach the opener...
I'm sure it would work fine in the middle or at the bottom, but the bottom metal panel has the seal affixed with numerous spot welds, so removal is not a viable option.
The steel door is a typical unit made to look like is comprised of raised panel, style and rail construction which is embossed into the thin steel skin.
like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pella-Traditional-108-in-x-84-in-White-Single-Garage-Door/50259747
Putting the short panel in the middle would work, just look funky.
As there will be 2 doors side by side, symmetry is an issue.
Pics may follow later.........
Ronno6
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Re: MTD Yardman Transaxle Rebuild
More door stuff............
One door has a pretty badly injured panel, as the torsion spring broke and use of the opener without spring assist
cause the door to buckle and fracture in the middle.
Had this not happened and I had 4 good panels other than the bottom with the seal on it, I would install the
short panel at the bottom. That would probably be the best design.
I could still pit it in the center, but I dunno how that will look. Less noticeable at top or bottom.
I'm beginning to understand the black magic of door torsion springs.
If a spring is too strong, the door will not remain closed when down.
Relieving a turn of tension may allow the door st remain closed, but the spring will unwind before the door
gets to the top of the opening, which means it will not stay up, or the cable will go slack if an opener pulls the door
past that point. Cable slack is not a good thing........
Too low a spring rate and it will not provide adequate lift assist to the door, overstressing the opener and top panel where the opener attaches.
I think the existing spring will work OK when I get the additional weight of the short panel in play.
Lengthening the track would reduce the headroom necessary for the opener.
Of course, I could just reduce the opening size to fit the door but my truck may be too tall to get thru a 6'3" opening..........
More door stuff............
One door has a pretty badly injured panel, as the torsion spring broke and use of the opener without spring assist
cause the door to buckle and fracture in the middle.
Had this not happened and I had 4 good panels other than the bottom with the seal on it, I would install the
short panel at the bottom. That would probably be the best design.
I could still pit it in the center, but I dunno how that will look. Less noticeable at top or bottom.
I'm beginning to understand the black magic of door torsion springs.
If a spring is too strong, the door will not remain closed when down.
Relieving a turn of tension may allow the door st remain closed, but the spring will unwind before the door
gets to the top of the opening, which means it will not stay up, or the cable will go slack if an opener pulls the door
past that point. Cable slack is not a good thing........
Too low a spring rate and it will not provide adequate lift assist to the door, overstressing the opener and top panel where the opener attaches.
I think the existing spring will work OK when I get the additional weight of the short panel in play.
Lengthening the track would reduce the headroom necessary for the opener.
Of course, I could just reduce the opening size to fit the door but my truck may be too tall to get thru a 6'3" opening..........
Ronno6
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Re: MTD Yardman Transaxle Rebuild
It may, but it slides into a track which is spot welded to the door panel.
It may, but it slides into a track which is spot welded to the door panel.
Boobala
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Re: MTD Yardman Transaxle Rebuild
No matter how bad it looks, ..you can hide it all with a door mural !! ( LOL )
View attachment 36079...View attachment 36080...View attachment 36081...View attachment 36082...
No matter how bad it looks, ..you can hide it all with a door mural !! ( LOL )
View attachment 36079...View attachment 36080...View attachment 36081...View attachment 36082...
Ronno6
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Re: MTD Yardman Transaxle Rebuild
Can't open any but the book case......................
Can't open any but the book case......................
Ronno6
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Re: More Dor N ews
I have test fitted a short piece of 1 x 8 to one side, attaching with the hinge and installing a top guide roller.
It appears that this approach will work.
The door panels have a tongue and groove configuration that I can easily machine into the wood.
I will use a 1 x 8full width, frame inside with 1 x 2 and 1 x 4, then outside with something 1/2" thick w, beveled edges
to give the 3-D effect and bring the panel to the required 2" thickness.
I didn't know how things would track with 2 rollers so close together, but apparently, just fine.
Then, it'll be on to the opener.........
Keep yer fin'ers crossed.............
Eyes,too in yer case,Boo....
I have test fitted a short piece of 1 x 8 to one side, attaching with the hinge and installing a top guide roller.
It appears that this approach will work.
The door panels have a tongue and groove configuration that I can easily machine into the wood.
I will use a 1 x 8full width, frame inside with 1 x 2 and 1 x 4, then outside with something 1/2" thick w, beveled edges
to give the 3-D effect and bring the panel to the required 2" thickness.
I didn't know how things would track with 2 rollers so close together, but apparently, just fine.
Then, it'll be on to the opener.........
Keep yer fin'ers crossed.............
Eyes,too in yer case,Boo....
Ronno6
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Re: More Door News
Prior to acquiring these doors I had thought of slicing the top panel to the correct dimension, then fastening a 2 x 1 x 1/8 piece of aluminum channel to the raw edge.
That seemed like too much work and expense.
I guess I could dig a trench for the door to go down into, but............
It is the top panel that is too long.......not the bottom one!
Prior to acquiring these doors I had thought of slicing the top panel to the correct dimension, then fastening a 2 x 1 x 1/8 piece of aluminum channel to the raw edge.
That seemed like too much work and expense.
I guess I could dig a trench for the door to go down into, but............
It is the top panel that is too long.......not the bottom one!