Re: MTD Yardman Transaxle Rebuild
Some guys just can't take criticism, some just can't take praise, Bert ...if the shoe fits, WEAR IT !! :thumbsup:
I stopped posting and eventually even visiting the "My Mower" forum because of just this.
Some one posts the 25 chime in with a howdy doodie another 12 post don't worry "XYZ " will be here soon then way way done the bottom some one tries to answer, who is not XYZ and they get churley.
There are lots of excellent techs on here many of which I respect their opinions and in particular experience way more than me.
As for the K970, there are 4 versions of it.
When I got it first, it started easy cold then when warmed, ran weakly up to about 5000 rpm then stalled out rich ( confirmed with the colortune )
So first order was a carb kit.
Carb kit back on and adjusted according to Walbro and it was difficult to start then once warmed up I tried to set it to 9500 and the electric tacho was all over the shop.
Pulled the kill wire off , and the same thing so diagnosed a dud module
New module fitted and now it starts really well, runs strongly to 7500 then stops dead.
Will restart right away and repeat the performance so me though the module ( $ 195 down here ) has a limiter on it.
A week of running up expensive phone calls to Husqvarna USA put pays to that idea.
So out with the pressure / vacuum gages. Carb checks out fine but tank is iffy so out with the carb again ( 90 minute job ) and replace the primer.
Tank holds 7 psi. carb held 7 psi for over 1 hour
Compression is only 90 psi but this piece of #*&!! has a 2.5" bore and only a 1.5" stroke so is way over square.
Muffler has been off. bore is clean, rings ( 2 of them ) are clean and muffler is clean, piston crown is clean
There is a check valve down stream of the primer which checks the same way as the primer that was not totally closing off so I have ordered a new one, but there is no info about it and only 1 out of the 4 has it.
The fuel filter was a porex type and broken so initally I put a ZF 3 in there which is the biggest hand held filter I keep.
On the off chance it was not flowing enough I bought in an OEM porex one ( $ 15 ) and wile the fuel line was out pressure tested it to 10 PSI which it held for over 1 hour.
The line from the carb to the primer was touch hard so it got replaced with heavy walled Tygon suction tube.
While th carb was out for the 10th time I checked it again for both pressure & vacuum and it works perfectly, I can even pull a vaccuum using the primer bulb although it takes a week and just for the heck of it I hooked up the return line to the pressure pump and used the primer to pump it up to 7 psi.
The only thing I have not done to date is a primary pressure & vaccuum test and that is simply because this !*#!!! has a baffle in the inlet manifold so you have to block the cylinder off with a custom made plate and a clamp, after removing the engine completely as the inlet manifold actually holds the engine into the case and that means dissasembly of the drive belt and removal of both the flywheel & clutch.
And yes the carb was cleaned in the ultrasound 3 times @ 1/2 hour each and it works beautifully all orrifices flow fuel properly which I have tested using one of those old blower paint guns.
So if any one else has ideas while I wait for the check valve to materialize I am all ears.
