spindle nuts

bertsmobile1

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What I recommend but almost no one does is to get a second set of blades and swap them over .
Thus you can sharpen them when you have time and you always have a spare set for when you find the long lost hammer , spannar etc in the lawn .
It is also worthwhile to get a different style & brand of blade so over time you can evaluate what works best.
Generally in spring a strait throwing blade will work best, changing over to a mulching blade around mid summer when the growth slows down a bit .
 

StarTech

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One the problem with spindle nuts and screws is that they are constantly being exposed the damp materials being cut. Doesn't matter dry you think it is there is still moisture involved. This will lead to rusting. Some uses anti seize compound or grease. This will also lead to over torquing the retainers as lower the resistance to turning. Personally I only clean up the threads and reinstall as intended by OEM. The grease and anti seize only prevents rusting and not over tightening. Also when a lubricate is used you must lower the torque spec as much 20% to have the clamping pressure.

Any mower operator/owner should at least remove the blades once a year for maintenance or more often depending to the cutting conditions. Blades are a wear item and they do take a lot of abuse.
 
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mark abby

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true. I bought this from a dealer late last year. It was stored in a barn for a couple of years before he got it. It only had 100 hours on it, which is not bad for a 2016. So, i doubt anyone ever removed the blades. I usually take them off two or thjree times a year to sharpen. Its a beast...I bought it because we have a steep hill out back about 200 feet long and this has a steering wheel which makes it perfect control for doing the hill.
 

shadetree#1

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Couple hints:
My impact usually will break them loose, BUT I have a big anvil and a big vise right outside the shop and every once in awhile I get one like that (really seized) and need to remove/replace the blade. I take the deck off to where I can get to the top pulley nut and remove the spindle shaft with the blade in place on the shaft. Take the shaft with the blade attached to the big vise and give the nut a good massage on it's sides using the vise as the back-up, then clamp the blade in the big vise and remove the nut. The side impacts from the big hammer loosens the rust, etc. If it's still stubborn I heat the nut with oxy/acyt torch and since the spindle shaft is out of the spindle no concern about heat to the spindle housing or bearings. You have the option of doing this and taking the blade/shaft to someone who can remove the blade and then pack/grease the bearings before re-installing.

Also in your case removing the shaft with the blade gives you good access for splitting the nut. If that is a star type blade pattern (not round hole blade) most likely the blade has spun on the shaft and ruined the stars on the end of the spindle shaft and a replacement shaft will be required.
 
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Hammermechanicman

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I don't generally have problems with blade bolts and nuts. A good impact gun and 175psi of air does the trick. If not i have an induction heat gun that will heat the nuts cherry red and not hurt the seals and bearings.
 

mark abby

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I don't generally have problems with blade bolts and nuts. A good impact gun and 175psi of air does the trick. If not i have an induction heat gun that will heat the nuts cherry red and not hurt the seals and bearings.
induction heat gun.....nice tool to have, but a little pricey for me.
 

mark abby

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one last question.....the nuts are flange type, will the nut splitter crack that too? Or, will cracking the nut be enough to move them?

I ordered one set, but had to return it because the largest one was too small. So, monday i'm getting a larger one
 

bertsmobile1

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I use a Dremel tool having found most nut splitters just not up to the job
Use the cut off disc ( or several if you hand is not steady ) to cut a slot with strait sides
Put cold chisel in slot and smack with BFH
This will either split the nut or widen it enough for it to be undone .
 

mark abby

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I use a Dremel tool having found most nut splitters just not up to the job
Use the cut off disc ( or several if you hand is not steady ) to cut a slot with strait sides
Put cold chisel in slot and smack with BFH
This will either split the nut or widen it enough for it to be undone .
my nut splitters are coming tomorrow, but befor i open them, i'll try your idea with the dremel. That way i can send them back if it works and save a few bucks. :)
 
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