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2016 CC proz100s EFI 60" deck

i'm trying to remove the spindle nuts. I put a 4 foot breaker bar on the nuts, and locked the blade in place with a piece of wood. I practically jumped on the bar and i can't seem to get those bottom nuts loose! i sprayed them with penetrating oil, let them soak, but they won't give. I can;t use heat because of the oil seal on the spindles.
The manuals all say they are right hand threads.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I really need to change these blades.

It most likely will a strong impact to get them loose. These spindles are using blades with round holes so the nuts overtighten from use. I go some Scags here that I have to use a 6 ft extension on the pull bar and with both feet on the deck pulling both arms rowboat the nuts loose. Even my 1300 ft\lb impact can't loosen those nuts. But most of the MTD 5/8 nuts (15/16 socket head) are usually gotten by the same impact.

And yes they are RH threaded. Once off they tighten back to 90 ft-lbs.

StarTech said:

It most likely will a strong impact to get them loose. These spindles are using blades with round holes so the nuts overtighten from use. I go some Scags here that I have to use a 6 ft extension on the pull bar and with both feet on the deck pulling both arms rowboat the nuts loose. Even my 1300 ft\lb impact can't loosen those nuts. But most of the MTD 5/8 nuts (15/16 socket head) are usually gotten by the same impact.

And yes they are RH threaded. Once off they tighten back to 90 ft-lbs.

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thanks....i'm going out to try your suggestion now.

well, that didn't work. i tried a mechanic's air impact tool....nothing. Then i put together an 8ft black iron pipe, 1" in diameter and pushed, pulled and swore....nothing.

i figure my last two options are either bring it to a dealer, or use a nut breaker and buy new nuts. ARGH!!

Yes sometimes you have go that route. If you split the nuts make run a die over the threads to clean them before installing the new nuts.

Not impacts are the same either. Until I got my AirCat 1150K I was using the 1/2" Campbell Hausfeld and my brother Snap-on 1/2" impact both were gutless wonders. He was so pissed that my AirCat walk over his pride and joy Snap-on he took a sledge hammer to it. The Campbell Hausfeld I gave away.

The main difference was twin hammer design of the AirCat. I like the muffler they use to quieten it.

Also you air supply can make a difference too. CFMs may not be there. Here my AirCat requires hi flow the couplers and plugs. When I was using M style couplers and plugs on a 100 ft 3/8" line run the pressure dropped to 20 psi when I try using it as the line was being restricted by the plugs. Now with the V style couplers and plugs I operating at 90+psi which is where the impact develops its full power. On top that not all M-style plugs are the full M style opening especially those cheap Chinese ones that HFT sells.

didn't have one that size....ordered from amazon. I probably have one, but it's one of those tools you use once or twice in a life time and forget where you put it.

thanks for helping. I'm getting them saturday, i'll post back if it worked.

Or break it as I did the last one I had here and now I got to get a new one. Actually it was the splitting wedge that broke. Boy those hardern nuts are bear to split. At least those MTD spindle nuts are not super hard.

But I agree some tools it seems we once in a blue moon and then can't find it later. I had to pull out a tool the other day that I haven't use in 15 yrs. Good thing I still had it as it is no longer made.

StarTech said:

Or break it as I did the last one I had here and now I got to get a new one. Actually it was the splitting wedge that broke. Boy those hardern nuts are bear to split. At least those MTD spindle nuts are not super hard.

But I agree some tools it seems we once in a blue moon and then can't find it later. I had to pull out a tool the other day that I haven't use in 15 yrs. Good thing I still had it as it is no longer made.

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i'm hoping it will split it enough to loosen them because they have a flange on them. And i'll be sure to put never seize on them.

The trick is to remove them regularly
As Star said , they self tighten and if the blades are not kept sharp they self tighten really hard in use
If I can not get them off with my impact then I cut them off & replace them with new ones
They are not rusted tiht, they have over tightened and neversieze will not prevent that happening.

bertsmobile1 said:

The trick is to remove them regularly
As Star said , they self tighten and if the blades are not kept sharp they self tighten really hard in use
If I can not get them off with my impact then I cut them off & replace them with new ones
They are not rusted tiht, they have over tightened and neversieze will not prevent that happening.

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my first full year of owning it. Obviously, previous owner never did that. I'l be sure to do as you suggested

What I recommend but almost no one does is to get a second set of blades and swap them over .
Thus you can sharpen them when you have time and you always have a spare set for when you find the long lost hammer , spannar etc in the lawn .
It is also worthwhile to get a different style & brand of blade so over time you can evaluate what works best.
Generally in spring a strait throwing blade will work best, changing over to a mulching blade around mid summer when the growth slows down a bit .

One the problem with spindle nuts and screws is that they are constantly being exposed the damp materials being cut. Doesn't matter dry you think it is there is still moisture involved. This will lead to rusting. Some uses anti seize compound or grease. This will also lead to over torquing the retainers as lower the resistance to turning. Personally I only clean up the threads and reinstall as intended by OEM. The grease and anti seize only prevents rusting and not over tightening. Also when a lubricate is used you must lower the torque spec as much 20% to have the clamping pressure.

Any mower operator/owner should at least remove the blades once a year for maintenance or more often depending to the cutting conditions. Blades are a wear item and they do take a lot of abuse.

true. I bought this from a dealer late last year. It was stored in a barn for a couple of years before he got it. It only had 100 hours on it, which is not bad for a 2016. So, i doubt anyone ever removed the blades. I usually take them off two or thjree times a year to sharpen. Its a beast...I bought it because we have a steep hill out back about 200 feet long and this has a steering wheel which makes it perfect control for doing the hill.

Couple hints:
My impact usually will break them loose, BUT I have a big anvil and a big vise right outside the shop and every once in awhile I get one like that (really seized) and need to remove/replace the blade. I take the deck off to where I can get to the top pulley nut and remove the spindle shaft with the blade in place on the shaft. Take the shaft with the blade attached to the big vise and give the nut a good massage on it's sides using the vise as the back-up, then clamp the blade in the big vise and remove the nut. The side impacts from the big hammer loosens the rust, etc. If it's still stubborn I heat the nut with oxy/acyt torch and since the spindle shaft is out of the spindle no concern about heat to the spindle housing or bearings. You have the option of doing this and taking the blade/shaft to someone who can remove the blade and then pack/grease the bearings before re-installing.

Also in your case removing the shaft with the blade gives you good access for splitting the nut. If that is a star type blade pattern (not round hole blade) most likely the blade has spun on the shaft and ruined the stars on the end of the spindle shaft and a replacement shaft will be required.

I don't generally have problems with blade bolts and nuts. A good impact gun and 175psi of air does the trick. If not i have an induction heat gun that will heat the nuts cherry red and not hurt the seals and bearings.

Hammermechanicman said:

I don't generally have problems with blade bolts and nuts. A good impact gun and 175psi of air does the trick. If not i have an induction heat gun that will heat the nuts cherry red and not hurt the seals and bearings.

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induction heat gun.....nice tool to have, but a little pricey for me.

Suprised how much i use it.

one last question.....the nuts are flange type, will the nut splitter crack that too? Or, will cracking the nut be enough to move them?

I ordered one set, but had to return it because the largest one was too small. So, monday i'm getting a larger one

I use a Dremel tool having found most nut splitters just not up to the job
Use the cut off disc ( or several if you hand is not steady ) to cut a slot with strait sides
Put cold chisel in slot and smack with BFH
This will either split the nut or widen it enough for it to be undone .

bertsmobile1 said:

I use a Dremel tool having found most nut splitters just not up to the job
Use the cut off disc ( or several if you hand is not steady ) to cut a slot with strait sides
Put cold chisel in slot and smack with BFH
This will either split the nut or widen it enough for it to be undone .

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my nut splitters are coming tomorrow, but befor i open them, i'll try your idea with the dremel. That way i can send them back if it works and save a few bucks.

Never under estimate a good pipe wrench and a 6 ft. Pipe "torque amplifier"

VICTORY...got them all off. Thanks for all the help, guys.
i did order new ones...damn things aren't cheap. They must use gold when forging them.

At least the Oregon 04-015 are under $2 compared to the MTD 712-0417A $5.15. You could had been dealing with the JD M123569 that are around $7 ea and there is currently no after market for them. Just had to buy 6 of them here to replace the faulty ones on the Stens spindles that I brought for a customer.

StarTech said:

At least the Oregon 04-015 are under $2 compared to the MTD 712-0417A $5.15. You could had been dealing with the JD M123569 that are around $7 ea and there is currently no after market for them. Just had to buy 6 of them here to replace the faulty ones on the Stens spindles that I brought for a customer.

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i found less expensive ones, but, by the time they charged for shipping, they got fairly expensive. In fact, someone on amazon was charging $15 for one...LOL I went to the CC web site instead and ordered from them.

Ever heard of supporting your local shops? IF you were local to me and came in it I would have sold you the Oregon nuts at $1.95ea inc tax. The only time I sell the more expensive nuts is when the customer insists on OEM parts.

I only have 13 of in stock currently

StarTech said:

Ever heard of supporting your local shops? IF you were local to me and came in it I would have sold you the Oregon nuts at $1.95ea inc tax. The only time I sell the more expensive nuts is when the customer insists on OEM parts.

I only have 13 of in stock currently

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usually, i do go the the shop where i bought it from, but i'm not driving 40 miles to get a couple nuts when i can have them sent to my house. My truck is a Hemi, and it uses quite a bit of gas, so, shopping on line for them was cheaper than driving that distance. Besides, if i walk into the shop, i'd spend more money on other stuff.

There is a torque value ,but it sounds like maybe that wasn't followed. I believe you'll have to carefully split the nut and then clean the threads.Be careful on reinstalling, torque wrench so you get an idea how tight is correct. Most guys,way overtighten these,you don't need to do this.Sounds like what your facing

mark abby said:

2016 CC proz100s EFI 60" deck

i'm trying to remove the spindle nuts. I put a 4 foot breaker bar on the nuts, and locked the blade in place with a piece of wood. I practically jumped on the bar and i can't seem to get those bottom nuts loose! i sprayed them with penetrating oil, let them soak, but they won't give. I can;t use heat because of the oil seal on the spindles.
The manuals all say they are right hand threads.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I really need to change these blades.

Click to expand...

repeat what you did with the breaker bar,only go the other way with it,then reverse it again and try, also a strong impact wrench would probably work