cpurvis
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To the post on the switch mentioned above which is hot during 'start' and 'run' positions but not while in the 'off' position.
That is what you need to look for in a switch.
Snapper Repower Wiring Problem
- Thread starter JoeCool
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That is what you need to look for in a switch.
mattm55
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I would not buy a new switch until you see what you already have in the Snapper. Since you changed engines, your probably going to have to improvise on wiring (i.e. the carb solenoid, etc...). Matt
mattm55
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Yes, Mom's day weather-wise wasn't too bad in upstate NY. Thx
I think your switch is fine with 3 prongs. Here is the wiring diagram for 3 pole switch off a Snapper. Changing switches will require adding extra wires. Do you really want to do that?
)Update: If the switch isn't marked on the bottom of what it does (M=Magneto, B=Battery, etc...) you will have to use the tester on the wires to see how it functions. So in start position, which 2 wires have continuity and then release start and see if they break continuity until you know what each prong does.
The letters on the back of an ignition switch stand for the following:
M = Magneto
S = Starter Solenoid
L = Lights
A = Accessory
B = Battery
G = Ground
I = Ignition
R = Regulator/Rectifier
This should help.
Matt
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mattm55
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OK, so I think i pretty much have everything hooked up now. I went back and studied a diagram from the parts list and figured the extra wires on the mower out. Just to be sure, is the magneto shorting block the plate that the throttle attaches to? I still don't know where to hook the fuel shutoff wires, though. One other thing is that the negative cable is getting hot. I have it bolted to the engine block like the pic shows. The wire is real old. Could that be an issue?
mattm55
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Yes. wires should not be getting hot. This could cause a fire. Remove the ground from the battery until you make 100% sure you have everything correct.
Matt
Yeah, I unhooked it immediately! I'm about to head to Lowes and buy a new ground wire. So, what about what cashman said here:
"The engine probably still has the wire harness for the fuel shutoff solenoid and connect to the terminal that is hot in both run and start and not in off position. The kill lead can connect to the "M" terminal or any terminal on the rear of the switch that has continuity to the body of the switch in the off position. The charging lead can connect to any wire that has continuity to the positive post of the battery or the "R" terminal on the rear of the ignition switch."
Is that how I hook up the fuel shutoff?
Update: I got a new negative cable and it helped some. It still wouldn't start though. Well, I went to unhook it but, I tried the key a couple more times. I noticed some smoke coming from the starter. The terminal hooked to it was touching the body and I guess it was grounding. I bent it away from the starter and tried the key again and the engine turned over! Things went south again after that though.
I put some gas in the carb and turned the key and it cranked immediately! It was 5 AM so, I cut it back off. However, the starter wouldn't quit spinning. I tried pulling the plug off the back of the switch and it didn't stop. I removed the negative from the battery but, not before the starter smoked real bad and finally stopped. I've since removed that starter and attached the one from the 8 HP. The one I removed looks like it has a crack on the bottom of it. So, does it sound like the starter was bad?
"The engine probably still has the wire harness for the fuel shutoff solenoid and connect to the terminal that is hot in both run and start and not in off position. The kill lead can connect to the "M" terminal or any terminal on the rear of the switch that has continuity to the body of the switch in the off position. The charging lead can connect to any wire that has continuity to the positive post of the battery or the "R" terminal on the rear of the ignition switch."
Is that how I hook up the fuel shutoff?
Update: I got a new negative cable and it helped some. It still wouldn't start though. Well, I went to unhook it but, I tried the key a couple more times. I noticed some smoke coming from the starter. The terminal hooked to it was touching the body and I guess it was grounding. I bent it away from the starter and tried the key again and the engine turned over! Things went south again after that though.
I put some gas in the carb and turned the key and it cranked immediately! It was 5 AM so, I cut it back off. However, the starter wouldn't quit spinning. I tried pulling the plug off the back of the switch and it didn't stop. I removed the negative from the battery but, not before the starter smoked real bad and finally stopped. I've since removed that starter and attached the one from the 8 HP. The one I removed looks like it has a crack on the bottom of it. So, does it sound like the starter was bad?
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mattm55
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Smoke is never a good sign. There is a lot to your post that is a little hard for me to decipher but it looks like you got the starter to trigger but it's not correct if you released the key and the starter kept turning. That is bad. Starting was the next step but looks like you went further to try to get it to run. The starter is really not meant to continuously crank either and you will end up burning them up with constant cranking.
To run, you'll need to make sure the plug has spark, and the carb solenoid is wired up.