Snapper Repower Wiring Problem

[mattm55]

I am not trying to step on Matts excellent advice but I would add Briggs website has a alternator_identification.pdf file you can download which will help identifying what you have as far as the type of alternator and what they wiring might look like from the eng side! It tells you things like if a black wire comes from the stator and has a white connector is ac only and if a red wire it could be 3 amp dc only. I repowered my yardcruiser a few years ago and it was very helpful, I also found wiring diags on the snapper website but I dont know it they still have it for the old stuff now.

No problem at all. That's why we moved from PM's to the forum so everyone can see and help. I'm no expert on electric and have had my share of spark plug grabs, shocks, sparks, etc...

Good idea. This is also available for your model > https://www.partstree.com/parts/snapper/mowers-rear-engine-riding-lawn-mower/m281019be-snapper-28-rear-engine-rider-10-hp-m-series-19/electrical-systems-for-electric-start/

Matt ;o)

 

[Boobala]

Got nosy about you guys ... did some investigating ... thought I'd add a few things that may ( or not ) help !!

..http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/m...rical from MA-S-1612 2004 Quick Reference.pdf

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/c...n_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_specifications.pdf

https://www.vanguardengines.com/con...a/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

https://www.vanguardengines.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_id.pdf

................

BETTER an overload of information ...than NONE at all .. ...Boobala

 

[JoeCool]

Thanks for all the help so far! I'm still feeling kinda lost. I still don't know what to do with the blue/black and red/black wires. Or the wires coming from the mag kill wire and engine block. And what exactly needs to be hooked to the battery? Where do I ground the battery? Sorry for all the newbness guys!

 

[mattm55]

Thanks for all the help so far! I'm still feeling kinda lost. I still don't know what to do with the blue/black and red/black wires. Or the wires coming from the mag kill wire and engine block. And what exactly needs to be hooked to the battery? Where do I ground the battery? Sorry for all the newbness guys!

Yes, your welcome. I figured from your questions we need to step back and see if we can get the very basic wiring first with some reasons why. Me telling you to hook the black wire to terminal A doesn't really help. And for us not being there we can't exactly see what's what and make sure the connection explanation is what you interpret to be the same.

So, lets take a step back and wire just what we need first. Once these are connected the loose or unconnected wire count gets smaller and thus should be easier.

Print my wiring as a ref to colors and make adjustments where necessary. Wire colors may not be the same.

1. Battery Neg Terminal - *This should be the last connection you make. A 6 or 8 AWG black wire that connects to the metal chassis. Mine is connected to the bolt that holds the throttle linkage. The bolt goes thru the lug eye on the black wire.
   
2. Battery Pos Terminal - A 6 or 8 AWG red wire that goes from the battery to the larger nut on the solenoid.
   
3. Solenoid - You probably have 4 connections on the solenoid? Two on top which are larger and two smaller ones. The small ones actually actuate the 2 top ones when there is current flow. So the 2 top ones are "open" initially until the 2 smaller ones have current passing thru. When current passes thru the bottom, the 2 tops are linked and sends current to starter.
   Top1 = Red Lrg Battery wire & B blue wire to B on switch
   Top2 = Black wire to engine starter that has the white wire (dont connect the white wire for now
   Small1 = Starter Switch red wire to this terminal. When you turn key, this takes the blue and connects to the red which sends current to activate solenoid.
   Small2 = A small green wire to any screw to chassis for ground
   
4. Magneto - This black wire forget about it for now. Make sure it doesn't ground to chassis. Electrical tape it.

Get that far and we can proceed.

Matt

 

[JoeCool]

I only have three connections on my solenoid. It has two big posts and a flat connector. Does that change a lot?

 

[mattm55]

I only have three connections on my solenoid. It has two big posts and a flat connector. Does that change a lot?

To me it looked like a 4 terminal solenoid so yes. Here is a diagram from Google which should help understand what that solenoid is doing. Google is your friend...

The solenoid is grounded by the unit itself so no ground wire is needed. Feed the key switch from battery with 12v B (blue), on turning the key switch to start the 12v (red) goes back to the small terminal on the solenoid and activates the starter (Pos Term on 1 and starter wire on other) to complete circuit. When you release the key to run, it stops the starter 12v.

Make sense?



Matt

 

[cashman]

I noticed that there's a fuel shutoff solenoid on the carburetor. The red and black wires under the shroud might be a wire harness for the fuel shutoff solenoid if the red wire connects to the tab on the fuel solenoid? That circuit will have to be fed in both the start and run and not in the off position on the ignition switch. Is the ignition switch a three position switch with off, run and start positions? If so, the terminals on the rear of the ignition switch may have letters either stamped on or near each terminal? If they are lettered, it will be a great help to get you from point A to point B a lot easier. If they are not lettered, might have to connect your ohm meter and see which terminals do and do not have continuity with the "B" or battery input terminal of the ignition switch which can be easily identified with your ohm meter.

 

[mattm55]

I noticed that there's a fuel shutoff solenoid on the carburetor.

Good catch. I missed that and being this machine went from a 10HP > 8Hp > 14HP currently, it may not have the appropriate wiring or connector yet for that? Same for the charging circuit. I think I'd be happy to get it to the cranking stage with key. Running is secondary with all the interlocks (now fuel shutoff) and mag kill. :thumbsup:



Matt

 

[cashman]

He will have to have an ignition switch that has a hot terminal in both the run and start position and not in the off position. Don't know if his original Snapper switch is going to have that function or not but he can check it with his ohm meter. Also check in the parts breakdown of the engine model and type number of the engine he is going to use to see if it has a auxiliary 70 watt lighting coil for headlights. That might explain the extra wires he is talking about? If it has, just tape them off. The engine probably still has the wire harness for the fuel shutoff solenoid and connect to the terminal that is hot in both run and start and not in off position. The kill lead can connect to the "M" terminal or any terminal on the rear of the switch that has continuity to the body of the switch in the off position. The charging lead can connect to any wire that has continuity to the positive post of the battery or the "R" terminal on the rear of the ignition switch. There should also be an inline fuse of 30 amps in the wire between the positive battery terminal wire at the starting solenoid and the "B" terminal or voltage input to the ignition switch.

 

[JoeCool]

So, do I need a new ignition switch? My Lowes has a couple of different ones and they're cheap. What would I look for? And, if I get one, where would that fuel shutoff wire attach?