Shell Rotella T6

[Scrubcadet10]

More oil debates!

 

[Scrubcadet10]

I've been using Rotella T-4 for a few yrs now. It is JASO rated & does have 1,200 ppm of zinc in it among many other things.

I've been running it in my Mule ever since you told me about it

 

[slomo]

You are correct is does extend oil changes.
JD Green needs to go somewhere other than TBN to get advise on oil people their are giving out poor advise.

The average person picks his oil based on a slick commercial and if you ask them what the
TBN number is they will not know.
If you ask them what the TAN number is they will not know.
If you ask them what the ZDDP count is they don't know.
If you ask them what the CST is at 100C they will have no idea.
If you ask them if it is made from a GRP. ll or GRP. lll or GRP. lV they have no idea.
All they know is in their mind it is the best but they base that on NO scientific info. :confused2:

What exactly, is the part or parts in synthetic oil, that all you guys think, that it extends oil changes? Please list every single item. ?

slomo

 

[slomo]

Black Bart, your post made a lot of sense! Thanks.

No it doesn't.

slomo

 

[slomo]

KennyV yours does also, sometimes its hard to believe all this new technology is better than the old stuff we are comfortable with. I use synthetic oil in some of my equipment, but because I dont see immediate results I have some doubts. I will give T6 a try sometime, i have noticed it is reasonably priced.

Reasonably priced means it's not a real, true 100% synthetic oil.

slomo

 

[slomo]

You have it close to right most synthetics are made from group lll base stock a few are group lV and some are PAO.

The base stock makes a difference but so does the add pack.
Most people don't really need a PAO based oil but is is the better base stock especially if you have a modified high horsepower engine.

Mobil filed suit against Castrol several years ago because Castrol was using a grp. lll base stock and calling it full synthetic.
At that time Mobil was a PAO base but the ruling was that the Castrol was so much removed from the original base that it could be called a synthetic.

Die hard Mobil users insist that it still is a PAO but independent Labs have tested it and say it now is a group lll but Mobil will not say.

Even if it is grp lll it is still very good and what most use for base stock.

Redline and Amsoil are PAO base stock.

People do not need a PAO based oil for a mower and while synthetic is better a conventional oil will be fine in a mower but a multi grade is a MUCH better choice than a straight 30.

If you change every year your mower would last for years but it has been said here on LMF that synthetic will not extend OCI that is just flat WRONG.

It is true that some conventional oil are using a better add pack than what they did in the past so they have closed the gap but full synthetic still is better.

As far as the cost I look at it this way my mower takes less than 2 quarts I can buy T-6 at my local Wal Mart for $21.47 that means about 2 bucks per quart more than conventional oil.

If I changed it every year I would spent 4 bucks per year more for the better lubrication.
if that is a deal breaker then I can't afford a mower in the first place think about it that is barley more than a gallon of gas.

The new SN PCMO has a much lower ZDDP Diesel oil still has a high ZDDP count this is needed for a flat tappet cam.
It was removed to make the catalytic converter last longer and since all new cars are roller cam it is no problem.

I don't understand people buying a piece of equipment that cost thousands and then won't pay 2 bucks per year for a better oil to use in it.

The engine that I have in my Corvette holds 11 quarts of oil and the oil I put in it cost $10,95 a quart.
You want to talk about oil cost try that for a few changes and a oil change on your mower is chump change.

Last I heard, Redline was a group V (5) oil with an Ester base. Not a PAO which is group IV (4).

Most oils that have the word synthetic on the label, IN AMERICA, are group 2 or 3 base oils at best. Mobile 1 is not a true 100% synthetic in any form or fashion.

In Briggs engines, even Briggs says a multi-grade "can be used" but 30w is the better choice. As in Briggs admitting if you use a 5w-30 full synthetic (multi-grade), you'd better check the oil often. And Briggs is correct, it burns off pretty fast in these air cooled engines. 30w is your friend. Been around for decades, still the best.

Black Bart said "If you change every year your mower would last for years but it has been said here on LMF that synthetic will not extend OCI that is just flat WRONG." Black Bart , please show us all your evidence on how synthetic oils extend OCI's or oil change intervals.

slomo

 

[Hammermechanicman]

?

 

[bertsmobile1]

OK you two
Get a 4lb hammer.
Apply it to your heads then repeat 100 times
"It is a lawnmower not a top fuel NASCAR racer
It has the cheapest lowest stress underpowered engine it is possible to make
So the actual oil used makes next to no difference "