You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
Shell Rotella T6
#1
kermit911
kermit911
I have been reading a lot about this oil, can it be used in gasoline engines?
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
#2
B
Black Bart
YES IT CAN
B
Black Bart
I have been reading a lot about this oil, can it be used in gasoline engines?
Thanks
Dave
YES IT CAN
#3
kermit911
kermit911
Woo Hoo
Thank you
Dave
Thank you
Dave
#4
B
Black Bart
B
Black Bart
Woo Hoo
Thank you
Dave[/QUOTE ]
New SN PCMO has lower ZDDP but the diesel oil still has it.
Any engine with flat tappet cam needs the ZDDP at 1100ppm or more so the new T-6 is the smart choice for all mowers.
#5
K
KennyV
K
KennyV
There is a lot to read about this oil... I see it in every forum and any oil discussion will have it mentioned...a Lot.
It is a great choice for any engine... :smile:KennyV
It is a great choice for any engine... :smile:KennyV
#6
JDgreen
Kenny, over on TBN, I posted a new thread about Rotella T versus Rotella T6, was basically asking if I change the oil and filter on my Deere at 100 hours using standard Rotella T, could I extend the change interval to 200 hours if I use Rotella T6 instead? The majority of responses said no, and many of the responders were critical of the Rotella oils.
I put about 100-120 hours per year on my tractor and have never considered using synthetic oil, if it doesn't permit you to extend oil change intervals exactly what is the purpose of using it in the first place? I have always been skeptical that it would reduce engine wear enough that the premium price synthetic costs would ever be recovered.
JDgreen
There is a lot to read about this oil... I see it in every forum and any oil discussion will have it mentioned...a Lot.
It is a great choice for any engine... :smile:KennyV
Kenny, over on TBN, I posted a new thread about Rotella T versus Rotella T6, was basically asking if I change the oil and filter on my Deere at 100 hours using standard Rotella T, could I extend the change interval to 200 hours if I use Rotella T6 instead? The majority of responses said no, and many of the responders were critical of the Rotella oils.
I put about 100-120 hours per year on my tractor and have never considered using synthetic oil, if it doesn't permit you to extend oil change intervals exactly what is the purpose of using it in the first place? I have always been skeptical that it would reduce engine wear enough that the premium price synthetic costs would ever be recovered.
#7
kermit911
kermit911
This is how I look at it. Regular oil is natural, they drill for it, refine it, and sell it. Synthetic oil is proccesed, I was told that synthetic oil does not break down or seperate as fast or at all conpaired to normal motor oil. There for synthetic oil will last longer, or in other words more time between oil changes. I could be completely wrong, but this is what I was told and it sound right.
One last thing, a gallon of T6 costs about $28.00, this will fill all my lawn equipment for the entire year. I'm willing to spend $28.00 per year for something that might extend the life of my equipment.
Thanks
Dave
One last thing, a gallon of T6 costs about $28.00, this will fill all my lawn equipment for the entire year. I'm willing to spend $28.00 per year for something that might extend the life of my equipment.
Thanks
Dave
#8
JDgreen
Purchased a gallon of Rotella T 15W-40 at Menards today, $12.95 plus tax. So, that means I can buy two gallons of Rotella for the price of one gallon of Rotella-T6. Sorry, I understand your reasoning for using T6 but to me, unless I can extend my change interval to 200 hours without having to worry, using synthetic is not a good idea. An extra six bucks for a filter, and the $28 I spend for conventional Rotella gives me TWO complete changes, and no matter how good synthetic oil is claimed to be, I will stick with conventional oil. I am sure a lot of the situation people have about using conventional vs. synthetic depends on how hard they use their equipment. If I were running full throttle every day for 40-50 hours a week, I would probably prefer Rotella T6.
JDgreen
This is how I look at it. Regular oil is natural, they drill for it, refine it, and sell it. Synthetic oil is proccesed, I was told that synthetic oil does not break down or seperate as fast or at all conpaired to normal motor oil. There for synthetic oil will last longer, or in other words more time between oil changes. I could be completely wrong, but this is what I was told and it sound right.
One last thing, a gallon of T6 costs about $28.00, this will fill all my lawn equipment for the entire year. I'm willing to spend $28.00 per year for something that might extend the life of my equipment.
Thanks
Dave
Purchased a gallon of Rotella T 15W-40 at Menards today, $12.95 plus tax. So, that means I can buy two gallons of Rotella for the price of one gallon of Rotella-T6. Sorry, I understand your reasoning for using T6 but to me, unless I can extend my change interval to 200 hours without having to worry, using synthetic is not a good idea. An extra six bucks for a filter, and the $28 I spend for conventional Rotella gives me TWO complete changes, and no matter how good synthetic oil is claimed to be, I will stick with conventional oil. I am sure a lot of the situation people have about using conventional vs. synthetic depends on how hard they use their equipment. If I were running full throttle every day for 40-50 hours a week, I would probably prefer Rotella T6.
#9
reddragon
reddragon
synthetics are comprised of the best parts of regular oil....if you knew how much useless crap is in the dino oil.....youd never go back.......and it does extend oil changes! :thumbsup:
#10
B
Black Bart
You are correct is does extend oil changes.
JD Green needs to go somewhere other than TBN to get advise on oil people their are giving out poor advise.
The average person picks his oil based on a slick commercial and if you ask them what the
TBN number is they will not know.
If you ask them what the TAN number is they will not know.
If you ask them what the ZDDP count is they don't know.
If you ask them what the CST is at 100C they will have no idea.
If you ask them if it is made from a GRP. ll or GRP. lll or GRP. lV they have no idea.
All they know is in their mind it is the best but they base that on NO scientific info. :confused2:
B
Black Bart
synthetics are comprised of the best parts of regular oil....if you knew how much useless crap is in the dino oil.....youd never go back.......and it does extend oil changes! :thumbsup:
You are correct is does extend oil changes.
JD Green needs to go somewhere other than TBN to get advise on oil people their are giving out poor advise.
The average person picks his oil based on a slick commercial and if you ask them what the
TBN number is they will not know.
If you ask them what the TAN number is they will not know.
If you ask them what the ZDDP count is they don't know.
If you ask them what the CST is at 100C they will have no idea.
If you ask them if it is made from a GRP. ll or GRP. lll or GRP. lV they have no idea.
All they know is in their mind it is the best but they base that on NO scientific info. :confused2:
#12
JDgreen
What a great recommendation from somebody who admits "I don't own a mower....." :laughing::laughing::thumbsup:
JDgreen
The t-6 oil is a great oil ,use it without worrys...:thumbsup:
What a great recommendation from somebody who admits "I don't own a mower....." :laughing::laughing::thumbsup:
#13
B
Black Bart
You need to talk to a Tribologist not a mower owner.
B
Black Bart
What a great recommendation from somebody who admits "I don't own a mower....." :laughing::laughing::thumbsup:
You need to talk to a Tribologist not a mower owner.
#14
JDgreen
The word "Tribologist" does not appear in my Websters....that is a PRINTED dictionary for those who don't know what a Websters is.
Did a Google search which did define the word, but why isn't it in a printed dictionary????? Is it newer than my 1998 edition?
JDgreen
You need to talk to a Tribologist not a mower owner.
The word "Tribologist" does not appear in my Websters....that is a PRINTED dictionary for those who don't know what a Websters is.
Did a Google search which did define the word, but why isn't it in a printed dictionary????? Is it newer than my 1998 edition?
#15
W
Western Auto Outdoor
No I dont own a mower I dont need one . My wife has a Poulan pro that she does a lovely job with..Why would i want one when she does the mowing ???:biggrin:
W
Western Auto Outdoor
What a great recommendation from somebody who admits "I don't own a mower....." :laughing::laughing::thumbsup:
No I dont own a mower I dont need one . My wife has a Poulan pro that she does a lovely job with..Why would i want one when she does the mowing ???:biggrin:
#16
tankdriver
Turn in you "MAN" card..... No wait, maybe you deserve a Gold "Man" card......
I'm so confuesd......:ashamed:
tankdriver
No I dont own a mower I dont need one . My wife has a Poulan pro that she does a lovely job with..Why would i want one when she does the mowing ???:biggrin:
Turn in you "MAN" card..... No wait, maybe you deserve a Gold "Man" card......
I'm so confuesd......:ashamed:
#17
bakerg
What is a Tribologist anyhow?:confused2: Is that what Jeff Probst is on Survivor?:wink: The tribologist has spoken.:laughing::laughing:
bakerg
The word "Tribologist" does not appear in my Websters....that is a PRINTED dictionary for those who don't know what a Websters is.
Did a Google search which did define the word, but why isn't it in a printed dictionary????? Is it newer than my 1998 edition?
What is a Tribologist anyhow?:confused2: Is that what Jeff Probst is on Survivor?:wink: The tribologist has spoken.:laughing::laughing:
#18
B
benski
The science of the mechanisms of friction, lubrication, and wear; someone involved in those studies.
Rotella T6 is not the only oil on the market that will do a good job of protecting your engine.:smile:
B
benski
What is a Tribologist anyhow?:confused2: Is that what Jeff Probst is on Survivor?:wink: The tribologist has spoken.:laughing::laughing:
The science of the mechanisms of friction, lubrication, and wear; someone involved in those studies.
Rotella T6 is not the only oil on the market that will do a good job of protecting your engine.:smile:
#19
JDgreen
Sarcasm is supposed to be MY specialty here....the term means someone who studies friction, wear, and lubrication. AND, Black Bart...TBN has an entire FORUM dedicated to fuels and lubricants.
JDgreen
What is a Tribologist anyhow?:confused2: Is that what Jeff Probst is on Survivor?:wink: The tribologist has spoken.:laughing::laughing:
Sarcasm is supposed to be MY specialty here....the term means someone who studies friction, wear, and lubrication. AND, Black Bart...TBN has an entire FORUM dedicated to fuels and lubricants.
#20
J
jamesslcx
J
jamesslcx
The line between syn. and conv. oil has been broken somewhat, I hear that more than a few synthetics start out as dino oil now. They are hydrocracked or something and changed into what the oil companys now call synthetic but are these true synths? Are they that much better than conv. oil? I need answers DAGNABBIT! I also was told what made synthetic better really was the ad pack, that almost all oils nowadays use a very high quality base stock but the additive package is what makes the difference, in price and quality!? What do you guys say?:laughing:
#21
reddragon
reddragon
oh crap!.......you guys just opened a can of worms! :laughing:
#22
K
KennyV
There are a lot of people that think they know a bit about lubricants, but your right ... they generally get the bulk of their information from advertising, manufactures implication and reference sources that are out dated... As in all things, new information, new formulations and new chemical and manufacturing engineering will change, and what seemed to be solid good information 10 or 20 years ago is marginal at best and at times radically different... But those that 'believe' they have a handle on any subject will continue with the " it has not failed me yet" attitude, figuring that that is proof to support their position on any particular matter...
With the resources available today, you only have to be dimly curious to discover advances in technologies.
it is not difficult today to find out about, additive packages, causes of oxidation, how multi viscosity really works, sheer in mineral oil vs sheer in synthetics, information that is available in a UOA or VOA....
These oil "discussions' generally involve those that want to be persuaded to do something better and those that would never change their position, no matter how wrong that it may be...
I switched from Mobil 1 synthetic to Rotella T6 synthetic... when something comes along superior to T6, I will be using it in all my engines, in this my loyalty remains in technological advancement... and I will stay current on my resources... :smile:KennyV
K
KennyV
You are correct is does extend oil changes.
JD Green needs to go somewhere other than TBN to get advise on oil people their are giving out poor advise.
The average person picks his oil based on a slick commercial and if you ask them what the
TBN number is they will not know.
If you ask them what the TAN number is they will not know.
If you ask them what the ZDDP count is they don't know.
If you ask them what the CST is at 100C they will have no idea.
If you ask them if it is made from a GRP. ll or GRP. lll or GRP. lV they have no idea.
All they know is in their mind it is the best but they base that on NO scientific info. :confused2:
There are a lot of people that think they know a bit about lubricants, but your right ... they generally get the bulk of their information from advertising, manufactures implication and reference sources that are out dated... As in all things, new information, new formulations and new chemical and manufacturing engineering will change, and what seemed to be solid good information 10 or 20 years ago is marginal at best and at times radically different... But those that 'believe' they have a handle on any subject will continue with the " it has not failed me yet" attitude, figuring that that is proof to support their position on any particular matter...
With the resources available today, you only have to be dimly curious to discover advances in technologies.
it is not difficult today to find out about, additive packages, causes of oxidation, how multi viscosity really works, sheer in mineral oil vs sheer in synthetics, information that is available in a UOA or VOA....
These oil "discussions' generally involve those that want to be persuaded to do something better and those that would never change their position, no matter how wrong that it may be...
I switched from Mobil 1 synthetic to Rotella T6 synthetic... when something comes along superior to T6, I will be using it in all my engines, in this my loyalty remains in technological advancement... and I will stay current on my resources... :smile:KennyV
#23
B
Black Bart
You have it close to right most synthetics are made from group lll base stock a few are group lV and some are PAO.
The base stock makes a difference but so does the add pack.
Most people don't really need a PAO based oil but is is the better base stock especially if you have a modified high horsepower engine.
Mobil filed suit against Castrol several years ago because Castrol was using a grp. lll base stock and calling it full synthetic.
At that time Mobil was a PAO base but the ruling was that the Castrol was so much removed from the original base that it could be called a synthetic.
Die hard Mobil users insist that it still is a PAO but independent Labs have tested it and say it now is a group lll but Mobil will not say.
Even if it is grp lll it is still very good and what most use for base stock.
Redline and Amsoil are PAO base stock.
People do not need a PAO based oil for a mower and while synthetic is better a conventional oil will be fine in a mower but a multi grade is a MUCH better choice than a straight 30.
If you change every year your mower would last for years but it has been said here on LMF that synthetic will not extend OCI that is just flat WRONG.
It is true that some conventional oil are using a better add pack than what they did in the past so they have closed the gap but full synthetic still is better.
As far as the cost I look at it this way my mower takes less than 2 quarts I can buy T-6 at my local Wal Mart for $21.47 that means about 2 bucks per quart more than conventional oil.
If I changed it every year I would spent 4 bucks per year more for the better lubrication.
if that is a deal breaker then I can't afford a mower in the first place think about it that is barley more than a gallon of gas.
The new SN PCMO has a much lower ZDDP Diesel oil still has a high ZDDP count this is needed for a flat tappet cam.
It was removed to make the catalytic converter last longer and since all new cars are roller cam it is no problem.
I don't understand people buying a piece of equipment that cost thousands and then won't pay 2 bucks per year for a better oil to use in it.
The engine that I have in my Corvette holds 11 quarts of oil and the oil I put in it cost $10,95 a quart.
You want to talk about oil cost try that for a few changes and a oil change on your mower is chump change.
B
Black Bart
The line between syn. and conv. oil has been broken somewhat, I hear that more than a few synthetics start out as dino oil now. They are hydrocracked or something and changed into what the oil companys now call synthetic but are these true synths? Are they that much better than conv. oil? I need answers DAGNABBIT! I also was told what made synthetic better really was the ad pack, that almost all oils nowadays use a very high quality base stock but the additive package is what makes the difference, in price and quality!? What do you guys say?:laughing:
You have it close to right most synthetics are made from group lll base stock a few are group lV and some are PAO.
The base stock makes a difference but so does the add pack.
Most people don't really need a PAO based oil but is is the better base stock especially if you have a modified high horsepower engine.
Mobil filed suit against Castrol several years ago because Castrol was using a grp. lll base stock and calling it full synthetic.
At that time Mobil was a PAO base but the ruling was that the Castrol was so much removed from the original base that it could be called a synthetic.
Die hard Mobil users insist that it still is a PAO but independent Labs have tested it and say it now is a group lll but Mobil will not say.
Even if it is grp lll it is still very good and what most use for base stock.
Redline and Amsoil are PAO base stock.
People do not need a PAO based oil for a mower and while synthetic is better a conventional oil will be fine in a mower but a multi grade is a MUCH better choice than a straight 30.
If you change every year your mower would last for years but it has been said here on LMF that synthetic will not extend OCI that is just flat WRONG.
It is true that some conventional oil are using a better add pack than what they did in the past so they have closed the gap but full synthetic still is better.
As far as the cost I look at it this way my mower takes less than 2 quarts I can buy T-6 at my local Wal Mart for $21.47 that means about 2 bucks per quart more than conventional oil.
If I changed it every year I would spent 4 bucks per year more for the better lubrication.
if that is a deal breaker then I can't afford a mower in the first place think about it that is barley more than a gallon of gas.
The new SN PCMO has a much lower ZDDP Diesel oil still has a high ZDDP count this is needed for a flat tappet cam.
It was removed to make the catalytic converter last longer and since all new cars are roller cam it is no problem.
I don't understand people buying a piece of equipment that cost thousands and then won't pay 2 bucks per year for a better oil to use in it.
The engine that I have in my Corvette holds 11 quarts of oil and the oil I put in it cost $10,95 a quart.
You want to talk about oil cost try that for a few changes and a oil change on your mower is chump change.
#25
J
jamesslcx
J
jamesslcx
KennyV yours does also, sometimes its hard to believe all this new technology is better than the old stuff we are comfortable with. I use synthetic oil in some of my equipment, but because I dont see immediate results I have some doubts. I will give T6 a try sometime, i have noticed it is reasonably priced.
#26
B
Black Bart
Glad that it helps.
The main thing that you want to consider is this the flat tappet cam will benefit from the high level of ZDDP in the diesel oil.
PCMO is much lower.
The conventional Rotella is a 15-40 and T-6 is a 5-40
Ideal viscosity for your engine is 10 CST but when you start it at 32F 5w40 is 583 CST the 15wt would be much heavier.
Your engine will not get proper lubrication until the correct CST is reached and their-in is the reason a multi-grade oil is vastly superior.
That is why my daily driver has 0-30 in it, You can not get a oil that is too thin at start up.
The T-6 is much better at start up, It will keep the engine cleaner than conventional oil and holds up better at high temperature and is a lower friction so less wear.
Since 80 percent of engine wear is done at start up and 20 percent is while running the T-6 is a no brainer since it is so cheap.
You can buy better oil but it will cost much-much more and would be over kill for a low performance mower engine, GO T-6
B
Black Bart
Black Bart, your post made a lot of sense! Thanks.
Glad that it helps.
The main thing that you want to consider is this the flat tappet cam will benefit from the high level of ZDDP in the diesel oil.
PCMO is much lower.
The conventional Rotella is a 15-40 and T-6 is a 5-40
Ideal viscosity for your engine is 10 CST but when you start it at 32F 5w40 is 583 CST the 15wt would be much heavier.
Your engine will not get proper lubrication until the correct CST is reached and their-in is the reason a multi-grade oil is vastly superior.
That is why my daily driver has 0-30 in it, You can not get a oil that is too thin at start up.
The T-6 is much better at start up, It will keep the engine cleaner than conventional oil and holds up better at high temperature and is a lower friction so less wear.
Since 80 percent of engine wear is done at start up and 20 percent is while running the T-6 is a no brainer since it is so cheap.
You can buy better oil but it will cost much-much more and would be over kill for a low performance mower engine, GO T-6
#27
S
Stefan73
S
Stefan73
After doing a LOT of reading I chose Rotella T6. Most of my concerns are from the critical wear period of start up in an engine. Rotella T6 should reduce change interval which you can validate through oil sampling.
Some good reading for you on oils Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy
I hope this helps. I initially bought Rotella T6 to run in my Dodge when I was living in Alaska to minimize wear on startup which is a big issue at -50F.
Some good reading for you on oils Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy
I hope this helps. I initially bought Rotella T6 to run in my Dodge when I was living in Alaska to minimize wear on startup which is a big issue at -50F.
#28
reddragon
reddragon
yes ..Rotella T6 has been tested a million times and still is one of the best oils....period
the other one that comes close is Chevrons 400.......but it has no JASO ratings....which are for motorcycles
motorcycles share oil with the transmission and require a shear rating for gear high speed and high power
so for an oil to have diesel- auto and motorcycle ratings is very rare....
the other one that comes close is Chevrons 400.......but it has no JASO ratings....which are for motorcycles
motorcycles share oil with the transmission and require a shear rating for gear high speed and high power
so for an oil to have diesel- auto and motorcycle ratings is very rare....
#29
S
steveyrock
S
steveyrock
I have been running 10w30 car drain oil in a craftsman push mower for 23 years, yes drain oil. The mower runs great except the deck is developing rust holes. I mow with this machine usually twice a week for at least an hour at a time, the thing wont quit.
#30
7394
7394
I've been using Rotella T-4 for a few yrs now. It is JASO rated & does have 1,200 ppm of zinc in it among many other things.
#31
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
More oil debates! 
#32
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
I've been running it in my Mule ever since you told me about itI've been using Rotella T-4 for a few yrs now. It is JASO rated & does have 1,200 ppm of zinc in it among many other things.
#33
S
slomo
slomo
S
slomo
What exactly, is the part or parts in synthetic oil, that all you guys think, that it extends oil changes? Please list every single item. ?You are correct is does extend oil changes.
JD Green needs to go somewhere other than TBN to get advise on oil people their are giving out poor advise.
The average person picks his oil based on a slick commercial and if you ask them what the
TBN number is they will not know.
If you ask them what the TAN number is they will not know.
If you ask them what the ZDDP count is they don't know.
If you ask them what the CST is at 100C they will have no idea.
If you ask them if it is made from a GRP. ll or GRP. lll or GRP. lV they have no idea.
All they know is in their mind it is the best but they base that on NO scientific info. :confused2:
slomo
#35
S
slomo
slomo
S
slomo
Reasonably priced means it's not a real, true 100% synthetic oil.KennyV yours does also, sometimes its hard to believe all this new technology is better than the old stuff we are comfortable with. I use synthetic oil in some of my equipment, but because I dont see immediate results I have some doubts. I will give T6 a try sometime, i have noticed it is reasonably priced.
slomo
#36
S
slomo
Most oils that have the word synthetic on the label, IN AMERICA, are group 2 or 3 base oils at best. Mobile 1 is not a true 100% synthetic in any form or fashion.
In Briggs engines, even Briggs says a multi-grade "can be used" but 30w is the better choice. As in Briggs admitting if you use a 5w-30 full synthetic (multi-grade), you'd better check the oil often. And Briggs is correct, it burns off pretty fast in these air cooled engines. 30w is your friend. Been around for decades, still the best.
Black Bart said "If you change every year your mower would last for years but it has been said here on LMF that synthetic will not extend OCI that is just flat WRONG." Black Bart , please show us all your evidence on how synthetic oils extend OCI's or oil change intervals.
slomo
S
slomo
Last I heard, Redline was a group V (5) oil with an Ester base. Not a PAO which is group IV (4).You have it close to right most synthetics are made from group lll base stock a few are group lV and some are PAO.
The base stock makes a difference but so does the add pack.
Most people don't really need a PAO based oil but is is the better base stock especially if you have a modified high horsepower engine.
Mobil filed suit against Castrol several years ago because Castrol was using a grp. lll base stock and calling it full synthetic.
At that time Mobil was a PAO base but the ruling was that the Castrol was so much removed from the original base that it could be called a synthetic.
Die hard Mobil users insist that it still is a PAO but independent Labs have tested it and say it now is a group lll but Mobil will not say.
Even if it is grp lll it is still very good and what most use for base stock.
Redline and Amsoil are PAO base stock.
People do not need a PAO based oil for a mower and while synthetic is better a conventional oil will be fine in a mower but a multi grade is a MUCH better choice than a straight 30.
If you change every year your mower would last for years but it has been said here on LMF that synthetic will not extend OCI that is just flat WRONG.
It is true that some conventional oil are using a better add pack than what they did in the past so they have closed the gap but full synthetic still is better.
As far as the cost I look at it this way my mower takes less than 2 quarts I can buy T-6 at my local Wal Mart for $21.47 that means about 2 bucks per quart more than conventional oil.
If I changed it every year I would spent 4 bucks per year more for the better lubrication.
if that is a deal breaker then I can't afford a mower in the first place think about it that is barley more than a gallon of gas.
The new SN PCMO has a much lower ZDDP Diesel oil still has a high ZDDP count this is needed for a flat tappet cam.
It was removed to make the catalytic converter last longer and since all new cars are roller cam it is no problem.
I don't understand people buying a piece of equipment that cost thousands and then won't pay 2 bucks per year for a better oil to use in it.
The engine that I have in my Corvette holds 11 quarts of oil and the oil I put in it cost $10,95 a quart.
You want to talk about oil cost try that for a few changes and a oil change on your mower is chump change.
Most oils that have the word synthetic on the label, IN AMERICA, are group 2 or 3 base oils at best. Mobile 1 is not a true 100% synthetic in any form or fashion.
In Briggs engines, even Briggs says a multi-grade "can be used" but 30w is the better choice. As in Briggs admitting if you use a 5w-30 full synthetic (multi-grade), you'd better check the oil often. And Briggs is correct, it burns off pretty fast in these air cooled engines. 30w is your friend. Been around for decades, still the best.
Black Bart said "If you change every year your mower would last for years but it has been said here on LMF that synthetic will not extend OCI that is just flat WRONG." Black Bart , please show us all your evidence on how synthetic oils extend OCI's or oil change intervals.
slomo
#37
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
?
#38
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
OK you two
Get a 4lb hammer.
Apply it to your heads then repeat 100 times
"It is a lawnmower not a top fuel NASCAR racer
It has the cheapest lowest stress underpowered engine it is possible to make
So the actual oil used makes next to no difference "
Get a 4lb hammer.
Apply it to your heads then repeat 100 times
"It is a lawnmower not a top fuel NASCAR racer
It has the cheapest lowest stress underpowered engine it is possible to make
So the actual oil used makes next to no difference "