Seems like surging carby? Not?

bertsmobile1

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And I did not mention Taryl at all.
He is one of the people I suggest people look at.
However he can be just as wrong as any body else, myself included.
The Hall Effect trigger module was designed & patiented by Atom Industries ( google them if you must ) who were one of my customers in a previous life.
As such I did learn a few things about Hall Effect Triggers and most will give a false reading from a resistance test.
Thus the comment stands.
You test the coil by removing the kill wire.
Regardless of weather the primary , secondary or trigger is at fault, apart from reconnecting a broken wire or replaceing a shotring plug cap, they can not be repaired so it is a case of it works or it gets replaced.

In the first response you were given the options including insufficient fuel and in the second you were given a method to isolate it to electrical or Fuel problems.

Glad you got it sorted, however have a good look at the debris.
There should never be anything in the fuel lines apart from fuel so have a good think about where that plug of dirt could have come from cause good chance there will be more of it just waiting to ruin your day.
Once fuel elbows are pulled out they have a bad habit of falling so usually get replaced out so keep an eye on it
 

MyEngineGuy

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For kicks and giggles I would Amazon search your make/model to check cost of a new carburetor. Often the Chinese aftermarket engines which you have employ a decent carburetor but with poor machine tolerances and materials (rubber). I would suspect that in disassembly something in the main jet emulsion tube was damaged or o-ring is not sealing. May be worth your time and aggravation to throw on a "should be good" out of the box carb. I have replaced similar ones for $20
 

zenchopper

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Well I for one do not do that.
And FWIW charge out scheduled hours not actual hours.
And no not a millionaire but I can sleep at night and have an ever growing list of very loyal customer.

Thanks for all your input and I appreciate that you didn't take my taunts personally. You're a top bloke.

Glad you do honest work. After a career change from Smash repairs, I made myself into a sound engineer and music producer.

The amount of time I work on other people's music to make it as close to what I perceive as perfect, is probably double of what I get paid for,
But I love making music so much that it doesn't really matter. I started charging "per song" rather than hourly rates, that way I can achieve
great results that don't rely on the financial status of the customer. I got so tired of "it's good enough because we cant afford to make it better".
I no longer wanted to have music out there with my name on it that was a compromise that made me look like an amateur.

That mechanic that was next door to my Smash repair shop was a BMC service agent so most of his customers
had deep pockets and yachts. Once a 40 series Jag came in which had rouge adjustable shock absorbers, he ordered 4 new shockers at $4k, then realised it didn't fix it. He could not return them because they were classified as an electrical component. After calls to England they found out it was a $40 part that caused the issue and you guessed it...All charged to the customer plus labour...

Thanks for your advice.
I think the crap in the inlet could have been from the original red 20 year old Briggs filter that I later replaced...
But I will change the fuel lines in case it is some stray bits of rubber from crappy fuel lines..But on visual inspection, they look and feel ok. Small price for insurance.

The rubber on the float needle looks band new , no swelling of gumminess.

IN the recording studio, if a channel is not working I start at the beginning, the microphone , then the lead, then the preamp, then the software...a linear path of diagnosis..

Next time I'm going to vigilantly check the path from start to finish...but I now I know to look under the elbow as part of the flow.

Thanks again
 

bertsmobile1

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Be careful with that elbow.
On Brigg engines they are a shrink fit so once remover can not be replaces and pulled out a few times the carb is toast.
Most technical things are the same, just a matter of working through them in a logical order.
I started in metals, morphed into transport and post GFC ended up repairing mower.
There is no way any one can insult me. although a few have given it a good go.

Go out & have fun.
Johno & Johno are reasonable to work with.
They have been importing parts for decades and most of what they bring in is reasonable quality.
 
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