Rust pulleys/bolts on brand new machine?

[David Giles]

No rust on my parts as well. If the nuts are hard to remove, use an impact wrench on them. They will unscrew right off. Torque them by hand when you put them back on.

Lightly wire brush the bolts and apply breakfree clp to the exterior parts. The rust will stop.

Thanks tigercat! We're definitely going to remove the nuts and bolts today. And I'll get some breakfree clp to spray on the pulleys, but I'll probably just go ahead and order exact-replacement nuts and bolts from McMaster. But would it make sense to go ahead and get the highest quality Stainless bolts/nuts for replacements? I certainly don't mind spending a few extra bucks for peace of mind.

David

 

[Mad Mackie]

The blade bolts are hardened steel class 5/8 bolts, stainless is a softer material and for sure would be expensive. The small 1/4" bolts in the pulleys are also class 5/8 bolts and I recommend replacing them. Periodic maintenance by removing the blade bolts usually does the job. Don't get any rust sprays on the pulley drive surfaces or the V belts!! I don't recommend wire brushing (lightly by hand is OK)them as this will remove some of the cad plating which in itself protects from corrosion. When I store my machine for winter, I lube, change engine oil, filter and remove and reinstall the blade bolts. Unless the blades are bad, I leave them on for spring cleanup and then change the blades.
With Scag machines, I recommend that the brake lever be in the off position during long periods of storage. Doing this reduces the frequency of brake readjustments, a service that requires the removal of the wheels to perform. I have replaced the brake actuator grease fittings with a 45 degree fitting facing up, this allows me to lube these spots from above the machine and without having to remove the wheels.
I also did the same to the grease fittings on the deck stabilizer links and now they also can be lubed from above.
Also bear in mind that the spindles use a particular type grease that is different from the grease for the rest of the machine. you can use the spindle lube on the entire machine, but not the other way. I have a 90 degree grease gun adapter that makes lubing the spindles easier.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

 

[SeniorCitizen]

QD is for Quick Disconnect.

COPIED from Baldor: To install Baldor QD Sheaves, the cap screws are used as pull-wrench only; no additional leverage is necessary. To remove QD Sheaves, the cap screws are taken out and used as jack screws ( pushers in the other 2 holes - SeniorCitizen ). A few quick turns on each screw, and the tight grip of the bushing on the shaft is easily broken.



*************************************************************************
Before doing anything toward dis-assembly measure or mark the amount of shaft protruding above the bushing. You'll need that to re-assemble.

The OD of the bushing is tapered and matches the taper of the sheave ID. I couldn't find torque specifications for re-assembly but it isn't much. For that size possibly 10-15 ft. lbs but that's a guess. The torque comes with the installation instructions when they are purchased new. I'll keep looking for that. You should find the size by a letter designation on the bushing and sheave , like JA as an example.

If the tapered surfaces are rusty clean with fine emery cloth or sandpaper. Wash with a liberal amount of WD-40 and wipe clean until you can feel nothing (grit) with your hands. Install dry, no never sieze, no oil , no nothing , just that residue from the WD-40 after wiping dry.

NOTE: during dis-assembly and after the sheave drops from the tapered bushing, if the bushing doesn't easily slide off the shaft, lightly drive a screwdriver in the bushing split slot to expand it just a little.

 

[David Giles]

The blade bolts are hardened steel class 5/8 bolts, stainless is a softer material and for sure would be expensive. The small 1/4" bolts in the pulleys are also class 5/8 bolts and I recommend replacing them. Periodic maintenance by removing the blade bolts usually does the job. Don't get any rust sprays on the pulley drive surfaces or the V belts!! I don't recommend wire brushing (lightly by hand is OK)them as this will remove some of the cad plating which in itself protects from corrosion. When I store my machine for winter, I lube, change engine oil, filter and remove and reinstall the blade bolts. Unless the blades are bad, I leave them on for spring cleanup and then change the blades.
With Scag machines, I recommend that the brake lever be in the off position during long periods of storage. Doing this reduces the frequency of brake readjustments, a service that requires the removal of the wheels to perform. I have replaced the brake actuator grease fittings with a 45 degree fitting facing up, this allows me to lube these spots from above the machine and without having to remove the wheels.
I also did the same to the grease fittings on the deck stabilizer links and now they also can be lubed from above.
Also bear in mind that the spindles use a particular type grease that is different from the grease for the rest of the machine. you can use the spindle lube on the entire machine, but not the other way. I have a 90 degree grease gun adapter that makes lubing the spindles easier.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

Okay thanks for the info MM! I'll order exact replacements on the bolts and nuts.

We don't do any kind of mechanical work here, but I'm comfortable tackling it, and one of my employees used to work for an equipment dealer that sold high end mowers and he did basic maintenance on them for awhile. But we don't have a grease gun here (yet), so can anyone point me to a reasonably cheap gun that will be okay for the very occasional use it'll get? And do you have a favorite grease that works on the entire machine?

 

[David Giles]

QD is for Quick Disconnect.

COPIED from Baldor: To install Baldor QD Sheaves, the cap screws are used as pull-wrench only; no additional leverage is necessary. To remove QD Sheaves, the cap screws are taken out and used as jack screws ( pushers in the other 2 holes - SeniorCitizen ). A few quick turns on each screw, and the tight grip of the bushing on the shaft is easily broken.



*************************************************************************
Before doing anything toward dis-assembly measure or mark the amount of shaft protruding above the bushing. You'll need that to re-assemble.

The OD of the bushing is tapered and matches the taper of the sheave ID. I couldn't find torque specifications for re-assembly but it isn't much. For that size possibly 10-15 ft. lbs but that's a guess. The torque comes with the installation instructions when they are purchased new. I'll keep looking for that. You should find the size by a letter designation on the bushing and sheave , like JA as an example.

If the tapered surfaces are rusty clean with fine emery cloth or sandpaper. Wash with a liberal amount of WD-40 and wipe clean until you can feel nothing (grit) with your hands. Install dry, no never sieze, no oil , no nothing , just that residue from the WD-40 after wiping dry.

NOTE: during dis-assembly and after the sheave drops from the tapered bushing, if the bushing doesn't easily slide off the shaft, lightly drive a screwdriver in the bushing split slot to expand it just a little.

Thanks SC! But not being a mechanic, I'm not sure if I understand what they mean by "the cap screws are used as pull-wrench only" and "the cap screws are taken out and used as jack screws". Can you explain that a bit? Or maybe just point me to something online that explains the process in non-mechanic terms (or maybe a video)?

EDIT: Okay after thinking about it, I THINK I figured out what they mean by "the cap screws are used as pull-wrench only" and "the cap screws are taken out and used as jack screws".

 

[Mad Mackie]

Look in the owners manual for the spec on spindle grease. This grease can be used on the entire machine eliminating the need for two different types of grease. I use the pistol grip type grease gun which is a one hand operation verses the lever type the needs two hands to operate.
If you decide to replace the 1/4" bolts on the spindle pulleys, look at the parts manual to see the breakdown of the pulleys. These bolts lock the pulleys in place as has been mentioned by SeniorCitizen.
Gotta get going before the rain comes and cleanup some leaves!
Later
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

 

[SeniorCitizen]

Thanks SC! But not being a mechanic, I'm not sure if I understand what they mean by "the cap screws are used as pull-wrench only" and "the cap screws are taken out and used as jack screws". Can you explain that a bit? Or maybe just point me to something online that explains the process in non-mechanic terms (or maybe a video)?

EDIT: Okay after thinking about it, I THINK I figured out what they mean by "the cap screws are used as pull-wrench only" and "the cap screws are taken out and used as jack screws".

Yes, most would call those two bolts. They are what pulled the two tapers together. To dis-assemble, those two bolts are removed and placed in the other two threaded holes to push the pulley from the tapered bushing.

This system is the best there is and any manufacturer using it is looking to manufacturer quality.

 

[David Giles]

Look in the owners manual for the spec on spindle grease. This grease can be used on the entire machine eliminating the need for two different types of grease. I use the pistol grip type grease gun which is a one hand operation verses the lever type the needs two hands to operate.
If you decide to replace the 1/4" bolts on the spindle pulleys, look at the parts manual to see the breakdown of the pulleys. These bolts lock the pulleys in place as has been mentioned by SeniorCitizen.
Gotta get going before the rain comes and cleanup some leaves!
Later
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

Excellent info MM! I'll pick up some Timken grease and a pistol grip gun with 90 degree fitting today.

 

[David Giles]

Yes, most would call those two bolts. They are what pulled the two tapers together. To dis-assemble, those two bolts are removed and placed in the other two threaded holes to push the pulley from the tapered bushing.

This system is the best there is and any manufacturer using it is looking to manufacturer quality.

Yeah it sounded a lot less scary after I thought about it for a minute. Thanks SC!

 

[motoman]

A word on quality of fasteners...A few years back there was a serious influx of "black market" fasteners from other countries. The US feds implemented a manufacturers' index(on line) which (supposedly) captured the source and addresses of fastener manufacturers. But the quality is still self implemented. Bolt heads , for instance, are imbossed with tensile strength (slash marks and numbers), and company name (abbreviation). But marginal product still comes in and (I'll guess) OEM tractor factories are just as vulnerable as us tractor enthusiasts. Once again, the quality systems in place are important. I bought some "grade 6" galvo cap screws a while back at a weld shop which quickly rusted. Seems to me the bolts pictured had marginal plating. They look like they were in a salt spray test. There are some hi strength fasteners with nickel that may or not be considered "stainless," but like Mackie says, torque values must be maintained. (whew, more soap box )