Rust pulleys/bolts on brand new machine?

David Giles

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Hey folks, I'm the proud new owner of a brand new Tiger Cat 61" that I just picked up from the dealer's showroom yesterday. It looks pretty much perfect, as you would expect of a brand new machine, EXCEPT for some unexpected rust on the bolts on top of the spindle pulleys. I can't find any other rust or other problems at all. Is rust in that spot normal on these machines, and should I be concerned?

Here's what I'm talking about:

015.jpg

David
 

Mad Mackie

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Hi David,
I just looked at the spindle pulleys on my 2008 Tiger Cub and they don't have any rust on them, oxidation yes. Are you in a high humidity area? Does your dealer leave machines outside? Does your dealer water wash their in stock machines? The machine bolts in the pulleys are cad plated class 8 bolts which don't corrode quickly, the other rusty area is exposed metal. Do all three spindle pulleys have the rust on the same areas? Your pic is of the center spindle pulley.
Was this a demo machine?
I suggest that you raise up the front of the machine, which you need to do to perform a blade change, remove the blade bolt nuts, I do this with an air impact wrench and 15/16" socket, pull the blades and bolts out and inspect them for corrosion. The blade bolts are 9 1/2" long and the machine needs to be raised up to allow the bolts to clear the bottom of the spindles. To correctly install the blades and bolts, the nut torque is 75 FTLBs. I use a long breaker bar with socket to hold the bolt head under the deck, and torque the nuts from the top with a torque wrench. With that much corrosion/rust on the pulley tops, I would be concerned about the condition of the bolts and nuts as when they get corrosion in the nut/bolt threads, they can be a bear to remove. I had to drill small holes radially in one nut and then split it with a hammer and chisel to remove it and I do 3-4 blade changes in season.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
 
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David Giles

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Thanks for your reply Mackie! I believe the other bolt heads do have some rust as well, but it has gotten dark out now, so I'll have to check in the morning.

The machine was inside the showroom when I saw it, although it COULD have been outside on display at times I suppose. But I'm pretty sure they don't leave them outside overnight. And I'm in central Alabama which is certainly very humid at times, but nowhere near the ocean so no salt to worry about. I can easily order some new bolts from McMaster and replace them, and it sounds like I probably should (don't want to give rust a head start anywhere!) Should I worry about the pulleys themselves?

David
 

Mad Mackie

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Hi again David,
I would definitely drop and inspect the blade bolts and the spindle bores for rust/corrosion. Keeping a spare set of bolts and nuts may be a good thing to do. I have installed thin steel aircraft washers under the nuts on my machine. The reason for the aircraft washers is that their OD is smaller than standard 5/8" flat washers and I have an additional collection system drive pulley on the R/H spindle which has a recess and won't allow a standard flat washer to fit. The flat washers have made blade bolt nut removal easier. As the mower deck blades turn, these nuts get tighter.
If there is rust/corrosion in the spindle bores, it can be removed with either a small bottle type metal brush or similar method. Should you choose to use anti-seize compound on the bolts and nut threads, then I would reduce the torque to about 50-55 FTLBs as this would be a wet torque. I do know several operators that do this as they mow wet and or high acid areas that contribute to quick corrosion.
I was stationed a Ft. Rucker a few times in my 16 year of US Army service, Dothan, Daleville. Been to Montgomery and Birmingham visiting Army National Guard Aviation units. Did 8 years in the US Navy prior to Army.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
 
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SeniorCitizen

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That appears to be a QD bushing assembly and the rust on the cap screws certainly appears unsightly for a new machine but what I'd be more concerned about is the internal surfaces. If they rust, those can be a bear to disassemble, especially if Bubba put it together with an impact. There are strict torque guidelines for assembly of QD bushings and if Bubba didn't follow those and some rust is allowed that isn't good. If done right they are the best. If you decide to service those we can help if you aren't acquainted with QDs. OR, you may know more than I.

Enjoy your new machine.
 

David Giles

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Thanks for the extra info Mackie. No this was definitely not a demo machine. It only had a tenth of hour on the meter, and not a scratch on it. And ZERO evidence of dirt or grass (it would have been very difficult to get it THAT clean if it had ever been used). Which is why the rust seems so strange... Anyway, in the next day or two we'll pull the blade bolts and check them out. And I'll go ahead and get some of those washers and install them while I'm at it.

Wow, Navy AND Army? Thanks for your service!
 

David Giles

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OR, you may know more than I.


Most definitely not. I don't even know what a QD bushing assembly is! :confused2: What does QD stand for?

Yeah I definitely want to check everything out and cut out any "cancer" I find before it spreads. Not sure how these parts got rusty to begin with, when everything else is so cherry. But regardless I would definitely like to service the QD bushings if you think I should (and if it isn't TOO difficult and doesn't require expensive specialized tools). So please do let me know what I need to do.

Enjoy your new machine.

Thanks SC!

David
 

7394

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David- Did you question the dealer about this rust ?
 

tigercat

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No rust on my parts as well. If the nuts are hard to remove, use an impact wrench on them. They will unscrew right off. Torque them by hand when you put them back on.

Lightly wire brush the bolts and apply breakfree clp to the exterior parts. The rust will stop.
 
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