rope tip

First of all...Boys, boys, stop that sniping....:thumbdown: I said before we should all be friends.

I first saw the rope technique called out on chainsaw maintenance. Can't remember the details , but seems like I couldn't remove the clutch nut without that approach. Did not like the feel-mushy.
Next, I think you should stay with plastic rope to avoid debris. I do hear and agree with the central plug location vs side. An aluminum or brass plug seems better. I also used the rope on my trimmer motor (clutch).
 
When I was a Johnson/Evinrude outboard mech, I used a piston stop to determine TDC for readjustment of the timing plate. I had an extra long strap wrench and a SnapOn flywheel holder that I used to remove flywheel nuts from outboards along with a flywheel puller to remove flywheels for ignition servicing when away from the shop.
I have piston stop tools for chainsaws to facilitate clutch removal and this is the only situation where I would use a piston stop.
As I mentioned in a previous post, I used a piece of "rope" in an aircraft engine to hold the valves in place as I changed a valve spring so the aircraft could be flown to a maintenance facility.
Mad Mackie in CT
 
The stops technique is a good one for finding the center of the dwell period at TDC where the piston barely moves. It may be overkill for the AC tractor motors, but I did it on my Intek and prick-punched and red dotted the flywheel . On that motor the dot aligned with the leading edge of the coil is true TDC which I use to adjust valves. Perhaps members would like to know the technique?
 
motoman said:
The stops technique is a good one for finding the center of the dwell period at TDC where the piston barely moves. It may be overkill for the AC tractor motors, but I did it on my Intek and prick-punched and red dotted the flywheel . On that motor the dot aligned with the leading edge of the coil is true TDC which I use to adjust valves. Perhaps members would like to know the technique?
Click to expand...

Sure would. Thanks! Always interested in learning new things and methods of adjustments. I used to adjust timing on old cars by trial and error without a timing light. I'd get the distributor in the ball park and then advance it up a little at a time till it got hard to crank over. Then I'd back down a little bit on the distributor and ****** it a tad. Might make some minor adjustments after I drove it a while. We had an in-line 6 cylinder Chevy that had the timing marks on it from the factory that were at least 14 Degrees off the mark on the ******** side. What it showed to be TDC was off by that much! I had to do the above technique for 14 years on it off and on. I re-marked it for my convenience.
 
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motoman said:
The stops technique is a good one for finding the center of the dwell period at TDC where the piston barely moves. It may be overkill for the AC tractor motors, but I did it on my Intek and prick-punched and red dotted the flywheel . On that motor the dot aligned with the leading edge of the coil is true TDC which I use to adjust valves. Perhaps members would like to know the technique?
Click to expand...

Yes I would like to know.

(( cowboy up and get over it ))
 
Dave and Cars, should it be here or new? You both know cars and the technique is used to double check car crank damper timing marks which is important, but since most tractors just run basic timing it may seem overkill? Still I think it's neat on my Intek. Another consideration is that I only have the Intek whose cam is car-like and has not got the compression release "bump," so my ravings may be even more irrelevant to owners of those. Here I am jacking the thread again.
 
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