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If the crank is rotating when you are trying to remove the big nut to remove the blade remove the spark plug and put rope into the cylinder until the crank will not rotate.

impalass said:

If the crank is rotating when you are trying to remove the big nut to remove the blade remove the spark plug and put rope into the cylinder until the crank will not rotate.

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Why not just spend the $10 on the blade removal tool.

Or use a chunk of 2x4 to hold the blade.

Just thinking the string in the cylinder to jam the piston can not be good for the engine.

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

Carscw said:

Why not just spend the $10 on the blade removal tool.

Or use a chunk of 2x4 to hold the blade.

Just thinking the string in the cylinder to jam the piston can not be good for the engine.

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

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A metal tool is sold to replace the spark plug to stop the piston.

impalass said:

A metal tool is sold to replace the spark plug to stop the piston.

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Why would you risk doing damage to the piston?

It's never good to use the piston to stop a engine from turning.

I know guys on here put a string in the cylinder and that's not good but to put metal tool in to stop the piston could put a hole in it

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

Carscw said:

Why would you risk doing damage to the piston?

It's never good to use the piston to stop a engine from turning.

I know guys on here put a string in the cylinder and that's not good but to put metal tool in to stop the piston could put a hole in it

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

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The metal tool is recommends by the manufacture.

Good for them I still would not use it

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

The metal tool is supplied in special tool box by certain manufacturers.

Different size for different plug holes.

The rope trick is still the best idea.

I still say it is better for the engine just to hold the blade from moving when removing the blade nut or bolt.

Less wear on the internal engine parts and a whole lot faster and easier than pulling the plug and inserting a foreign object

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

Carscw said:

I still say it is better for the engine just to hold the blade from moving when removing the blade nut or bolt.

Less wear on the internal engine parts and a whole lot faster and easier than pulling the plug and inserting a foreign object

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

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Sometimes when you are reinstalling the blade adapter and you try to tighten the nut the adapter just spins so you need to stop the crank from rotating.

Ok

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

Earlier this year I broke down and bought one of those cheap, Chinese import Harbor Freight electric impact guns. Was on sale, plus an additional 20% off..so after using a friend's..I thought...oh well..if I use it on a dozen or so mowers it'll be worth it to save shoulder, arm, and knuckle busting strain and damage! I'm getting too old to be lugging on these frozen up blade bolts. I used it yesterday to remove the pan bolts on that 19.5 B&S motor. Didn't go back with it but tightened them by hand. I block the mower blades with a 2X4 and let the electric impact do the work for me.

Blocking the crankshaft with a tool inserted into the spark plug hole is not only recommended by the Lawn-Boy manual but Stihl recommends that method as well in a couple of their manuals that I have. I haven't had a problem doing it that way.

If you guys start working on stuff for a living will quickly learn that an impact wrench set on low is the only way to go. You try removing those old head bolts with a breaker bar will learn quickly.

So you all are telling me that you pull the spark plug and jam up the piston just to change the blades?

Man if you use a impact you can just hold the blade with your hand.

I don't care what the book says if you use something to stop the piston from moving then take you breaker bar and push on it to get the blade nut off your putting un necessary strain on the rod and rod bearings. Same thing if your doing a flywheel bolt.
Not to mention your doing things the hard way.

Talked to my engine builder he said he would kick my azz if I do this to any engine.

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

If your telling me that a person with a breaker bar or impact wrench can put more strain on a connecting rod and bearing than when the piston is forced down by a repeated explosion in the cylinder, I don't believe it. I have used this trick in the past when I have to do a service call and did have an impact or before cordless impacts were around. Never had a problem. Engine manufacturers are not going to put something in their manuals which they will not stand behind. Just because you will get kicked, does not mean that doing it as the manufacturers say is wrong or will do harm.

Two-Stroke said:

Blocking the crankshaft with a tool inserted into the spark plug hole is not only recommended by the Lawn-Boy manual but Stihl recommends that method as well in a couple of their manuals that I have. I haven't had a problem doing it that way.

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You are referring to a piston stop which works fine in an engine where the spark plug is in line with the piston direction. On engines where the spark plug is at an angle to the piston top, then it is not a recommended practice.
Mad Mackie in CT

Rivets said:

If your telling me that a person with a breaker bar or impact wrench can put more strain on a connecting rod and bearing than when the piston is forced down by a repeated explosion in the cylinder, I don't believe it. I have used this trick in the past when I have to do a service call and did have an impact or before cordless impacts were around. Never had a problem. Engine manufacturers are not going to put something in their manuals which they will not stand behind. Just because you will get kicked, does not mean that doing it as the manufacturers say is wrong or will do harm.

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(( cowboy up and get over it ))

Rivets said:

If your telling me that a person with a breaker bar or impact wrench can put more strain on a connecting rod and bearing than when the piston is forced down by a repeated explosion in the cylinder, I don't believe it. I have used this trick in the past when I have to do a service call and did have an impact or before cordless impacts were around. Never had a problem. Engine manufacturers are not going to put something in their manuals which they will not stand behind. Just because you will get kicked, does not mean that doing it as the manufacturers say is wrong or will do harm.

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The explosion covers the whole top of the piston a bolt or whatever screwed into the cylinder hits the piston in one little spot most the time to one side.

Have you never Saw that someone put A plug in that was to long and punched a hole in a piston just from the stater turning the engine?

Again I will ask WHY would you do all this just to change a blade?

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

Very simple for the simple minded. Because it works!! Or as you would say,

Cowboy up and get over it

My 0.2.....The guy I worked for many years ago(Journeyman Mechanic) did this for 30+ years.
I only had mixed luck with it and only use it as a last means.

I had mixed luck with this method also. Did do it on an aircraft engine several times, but much larger displacement and two spark plug holes to change valve springs in the field. Kinda like putting toothpaste back into the tube!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

Rivets said:

Very simple for the simple minded. Because it works!! Or as you would say,

Cowboy up and get over it

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So I ask a question and again you give a smart azz answer I was not being funny.

Again is it not just faster and easier to hold the blade and take the nut off?

Why do all that extra work

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

So if on a push mower you have to take the plug out and screw in a bold to stop the engine from turning. How do you change the blades on a riding mower as this would not work?

Yes I am being a azz about this because as things go here you get a drawn out answer that does not answer the question.
We all now know it works and won't hurt anything but why not just use something to stop the blade

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

"Yes I am being a azz about this because as things go here you get a drawn out answer that does not answer the question.
We all now know it works and won't hurt anything but why not just use something to stop the blade"

Because sometimes you can't hold or block the blade in a safe manner. I doubt you have ever been on a service call and don't have the right tools with you to solve a customers problem or additional request. As the OP said, "this is a tip" for the average guy. Does it take longer, YES. But as a service tech, you are asked to get the job done as quickly and safely as possible. Tips like these help everyone, except those who don't want to use them.

You asked about a deck blade. Here's another rope trick for you. Tie a rope just under the pulley and wrap it around the spindle in the opposite way about six times. Now tie the rope off on the other spindle. As you try to loosen the nut or bolt on the blade, the rope will tighten and finally stop the spindle from turning, holding it tight. This will allow you to remove the stubborn bolt.

Before you ask, yes the old mechanics who do service calls, always have a length of cotton rope in the truck. You never know when it will come in handy. Also, cheaper than having a box of single use, specialty tools.

And all this time I thought the "rope" was to hang up "road kill" to dry it out while doing mobile service calls!!! HaHa!!!

I got confused :confused2: which isnt difficult.

To stop an engine turning ie not fitted to any equipment whatsoever I will use rope or plug tool.

To remove a blade on a mower I will use an impact gun or I will use a blade holder with a breaker bar.

To fit a blade I will use the blade holder and a torque wrench to set to 50lb ft or the FT Guage!

The blade holder looks like this How Do You Change Your Mower Blade? | Toolmonger

Carscw said:

So you all are telling me that you pull the spark plug and jam up the piston just to change the blades?

Man if you use a impact you can just hold the blade with your hand.

I don't care what the book says if you use something to stop the piston from moving then take you breaker bar and push on it to get the blade nut off your putting un necessary strain on the rod and rod bearings. Same thing if your doing a flywheel bolt.
Not to mention your doing things the hard way.

Talked to my engine builder he said he would kick my azz if I do this to any engine.

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

Click to expand...

Did you ever wonder WHY the mfg recommends using those metal objects inserted in the spark plug hole to contact the aluminum piston when it's met with FORCE from a breaker bar? I just hold the blade and let the impact gun do the knuckle bustin work! And I have used the rope in the hole at times. All that force on the piston and rod could help the engine fail prematurely perhaps and $ELL more MOWER$. Just a thought. I mean, these engines are getting cheaper built every day. Why not hurry along the process a little?

pugaltitude said:

I got confused :confused2: which isnt difficult.

To stop an engine turning ie not fitted to any equipment whatsoever I will use rope or plug tool.

To remove a blade on a mower I will use an impact gun or I will use a blade holder with a breaker bar.

To fit a blade I will use the blade holder and a torque wrench to set to 50lb ft or the FT Guage!

The blade holder looks like this How Do You Change Your Mower Blade? | Toolmonger

Click to expand...

I have the tool and use it. This is why I was asking why not use it over pulling the plug

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

DaveTN said:

Did you ever wonder WHY the mfg recommends using those metal objects inserted in the spark plug hole to contact the aluminum piston when it's met with FORCE from a breaker bar? I just hold the blade and let the impact gun do the knuckle bustin work! And I have used the rope in the hole at times. All that force on the piston and rod could help the engine fail prematurely perhaps and $ELL more MOWER$. Just a thought. I mean, these engines are getting cheaper built every day. Why not hurry along the process a little?

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That's what I been trying to say

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

Where my Hustler X-ONE is used there is no electricity to run an air compressor. I had an old push bar from a metal door which is U shaped and I cut it to length to fit over two blades which holds them together to facilitate blade bolt removal and reinstallation. One of the blade bolts is left hand thread. This tool works great and is a simple but a very functional thing to have and use.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

First of all...Boys, boys, stop that sniping....:thumbdown: I said before we should all be friends.

I first saw the rope technique called out on chainsaw maintenance. Can't remember the details , but seems like I couldn't remove the clutch nut without that approach. Did not like the feel-mushy.
Next, I think you should stay with plastic rope to avoid debris. I do hear and agree with the central plug location vs side. An aluminum or brass plug seems better. I also used the rope on my trimmer motor (clutch).

When I was a Johnson/Evinrude outboard mech, I used a piston stop to determine TDC for readjustment of the timing plate. I had an extra long strap wrench and a SnapOn flywheel holder that I used to remove flywheel nuts from outboards along with a flywheel puller to remove flywheels for ignition servicing when away from the shop.
I have piston stop tools for chainsaws to facilitate clutch removal and this is the only situation where I would use a piston stop.
As I mentioned in a previous post, I used a piece of "rope" in an aircraft engine to hold the valves in place as I changed a valve spring so the aircraft could be flown to a maintenance facility.
Mad Mackie in CT

The stops technique is a good one for finding the center of the dwell period at TDC where the piston barely moves. It may be overkill for the AC tractor motors, but I did it on my Intek and prick-punched and red dotted the flywheel . On that motor the dot aligned with the leading edge of the coil is true TDC which I use to adjust valves. Perhaps members would like to know the technique?

motoman said:

The stops technique is a good one for finding the center of the dwell period at TDC where the piston barely moves. It may be overkill for the AC tractor motors, but I did it on my Intek and prick-punched and red dotted the flywheel . On that motor the dot aligned with the leading edge of the coil is true TDC which I use to adjust valves. Perhaps members would like to know the technique?

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Sure would. Thanks! Always interested in learning new things and methods of adjustments. I used to adjust timing on old cars by trial and error without a timing light. I'd get the distributor in the ball park and then advance it up a little at a time till it got hard to crank over. Then I'd back down a little bit on the distributor and retard it a tad. Might make some minor adjustments after I drove it a while. We had an in-line 6 cylinder Chevy that had the timing marks on it from the factory that were at least 14 Degrees off the mark on the retarded side. What it showed to be TDC was off by that much! I had to do the above technique for 14 years on it off and on. I re-marked it for my convenience.

motoman said:

The stops technique is a good one for finding the center of the dwell period at TDC where the piston barely moves. It may be overkill for the AC tractor motors, but I did it on my Intek and prick-punched and red dotted the flywheel . On that motor the dot aligned with the leading edge of the coil is true TDC which I use to adjust valves. Perhaps members would like to know the technique?

Click to expand...

Yes I would like to know.

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

Dave and Cars, should it be here or new? You both know cars and the technique is used to double check car crank damper timing marks which is important, but since most tractors just run basic timing it may seem overkill? Still I think it's neat on my Intek. Another consideration is that I only have the Intek whose cam is car-like and has not got the compression release "bump," so my ravings may be even more irrelevant to owners of those. Here I am jacking the thread again.

I use a automotive style impact gun to remove blades the rope trick I never tried