Retro fit older motor in newer mower

[K_mase84]

OK so i taped the

From the top
Just tie the unused wires out of the way
Tape them over it ti makes you feel happy
The grey wire will be battery voltage whenever the ignition is on so you do not want it shorting to the mower

The stator in the photo is the diode rectified and the bottom end product so stick it in the just in case box.
The nikki is a better carb than the walbro from a fuel point of view.
The walbro is a more robust carb and gives fewer problems in use
So what

Ok so i taped it up and left the kill wire unhooked to the coil. I hooked up a battery and made sure there wasnt any voltage on that black wire to the coil. I tried to start it but it was making a clicking sound around where the starter solinoid is under the seat. so i unhooked the battery and came back inside im not sure who or what has worked on this before me But im looking at various wiring schematics trying to figure out if everything is right.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Get some jumpers and a good battery ( use your car )
Hook one jumper from the + on the starter motor to the + on the mowers battery
Engine should spin
If not
Try again with a second jumper from the battery - to a spot near the starter ( I use the drain plug )
Engine spins good = bad ground
If not
Do the same as above but use a good battery, If using your car / truck, leave it turned off
Starter spins good = bad battery in mower
Starter does not spin = bad starter

 

[StarTech]

Why they use round pin plugs on the main engine connector and flat pin plugs everywhere else has always mystified me .
But I have a couple of flat pin crimpers so have no problems swapping over plugs.
I did try to get my hands on a B & S and a Tecmseh grab box of connectors & interchange harnesses when I first kicked off but they were forever on back order so just gave up

They don't; unless, you are referring to the complete mower setups. The only flat terminals Briggs used are the ignition coils which are usually .187 Faston terminals though a few are .250 Faston terminals.

Besides I don't get these from Briggs but through my electronics distributor. Briggs uses a mix bag of Molex, and TE Connectivity. Now Delphi (GM Packard 56) are usually on the mower side. But some mower OEMS are beginning to move over to Metri-Pack and Weather Pack terminals and connectors.

With you being in Australia you probably need to find a distributor over there as mine is in Lubbock, TX. Can you use the Molex, TE Connectivity, and Delphi PNs as I can send you a link to a three part document that AVB has uploaded but it is still a work in process. Tecumseh connectors are not covered as that was before his time in the small engine business and they are nearly dead here anyways.

 

[bertsmobile1]

That would be good when it is ready & much appreciated
Yes the mower is all 1/4" or 1/8" spades and the engines are everything but spades
Just rewired the cranking circuit on 4015 Murray ( badged Victa down here ).
A South African mob bought the only terminal factory down here decades ago when the car factories shifted to Chinese looms
They closed down all of the factories & built appartmants on the land.Apparently that is good foreign investment
Since then only spades available locally from car shops and some bullets from bike shops in blow moulded shop packs
Can't even get the tools for tubular pins .
Comes from living in a country that makes nothing any more.
Got a wholesaler I get the electical stuff from in commercial quantities ( and prices ) but he only stocks baldes .
Thus everything thta I do gets 1/4" spades

 

[K_mase84]

That would be good when it is ready & much appreciated
Yes the mower is all 1/4" or 1/8" spades and the engines are everything but spades
Just rewired the cranking circuit on 4015 Murray ( badged Victa down here ).
A South African mob bought the only terminal factory down here decades ago when the car factories shifted to Chinese looms
They closed down all of the factories & built appartmants on the land.Apparently that is good foreign investment
Since then only spades available locally from car shops and some bullets from bike shops in blow moulded shop packs
Can't even get the tools for tubular pins .
Comes from living in a country that makes nothing any more.
Got a wholesaler I get the electical stuff from in commercial quantities ( and prices ) but he only stocks baldes .
Thus everything thta I do gets 1/4" spades

Based on the information you gave me the starter didn’t do anything at any time so can I take the starter off of the other motor and use it

 

[K_mase84]

Based on the information you gave me the starter didn’t do anything at any time so can I take the starter off of the other motor and use it

And I know the starter would be good because the other tractor started right up before I broke the connecting rod

 

[bertsmobile1]

In that case you have not made the right connections .
If you starter is a piggy back one you have to energise the solenoid to make the pinion throw out
And the + connection has to be directly to the starter, not the battery cable .

 

[K_mase84]

Ok so here is an update for everyone who has been helping me or following this. We have lift off. She runs good. After we determined the starter was no good i put the other one on and the flywheel starter spinning but no spark. So i swapped the coil for the other coil and boom ? fired right up and She cuts good. Eventhough my battery is reading like 10.68volts it starts right up. I just wanted to thank you guys for helping me get it running. next weekend ill be out mowing for an hour rather than three and ill be riding rather than pushing. Ill get to spend that extra time with my family thank you so much guys.

 

[K_mase84]

In that case you have not made the right connections .
If you starter is a piggy back one you have to energise the solenoid to make the pinion throw out
And the + connection has to be directly to the starter, not the battery cable .
[/QUOTE

In that case you have not made the right connections .
If you starter is a piggy back one you have to energise the solenoid to make the pinion throw out
And the + connection has to be directly to the starter, not the battery cable .

Im not really sure which one it is but its exactly the same( the top has plastic on it with a spring and a gear and it looks cheaply made). It fit just like the other one. I guess i shouldve waited for a response before i threw all my bonus parts on and turned it over! Btw do you know what the compression for this motor should be? Im going to check it