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Retro fit older motor in newer mower
#1
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
Hi everyone I have a craftsman LT1500 tractor that looks like someone put an older motor into. My friend gave it to me today and I need some wiring
Help...The motor serial numbers are. 313701 0126-E1 020626ZE. So It is a Briggs motor just not the motor that came in the tractor. Im assuming it’s 2006 based on the date code. I guess this thing was functioning properly at some point. Honestly I don’t really know but I don’t see why it couldn’t work. I’m a diy kind of guy because my resources are limited so I’d like to try and get it running so I have a working lawn mower.
Ok so there is a 6 pin connector( right next to starter) which is all jacked up and looks like Frankenstein so would it be possible to retrofit a harness from another Briggs motor( SN 318707 0525 B1 081027ZE) this is a poulan xt 16.5hp) it broke a connecting rod and the cylinder is pretty scored up so I’m not going to rebuild the motor but I have a bunch of bonus parts are any of them interchangeable?
Help...The motor serial numbers are. 313701 0126-E1 020626ZE. So It is a Briggs motor just not the motor that came in the tractor. Im assuming it’s 2006 based on the date code. I guess this thing was functioning properly at some point. Honestly I don’t really know but I don’t see why it couldn’t work. I’m a diy kind of guy because my resources are limited so I’d like to try and get it running so I have a working lawn mower.
Ok so there is a 6 pin connector( right next to starter) which is all jacked up and looks like Frankenstein so would it be possible to retrofit a harness from another Briggs motor( SN 318707 0525 B1 081027ZE) this is a poulan xt 16.5hp) it broke a connecting rod and the cylinder is pretty scored up so I’m not going to rebuild the motor but I have a bunch of bonus parts are any of them interchangeable?
#2
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
GEt some paper tape
Pull the blower housing off and label every wire both sides of the plug.
From there is it up to you
I buy std 1/4" spade terminal plugs and rewire both engine & mower
Remember the alternator needs a seperate plug which in turn plugs into the main mower plug
Remove the kill wires from the coils and do not connect them till you have finished and checked that the kill wire is either open ( engine running ) or ground ( engine off ) and never shows voltage no matter what.
Some carb solenoids have 1 wire which will be power while other will have 2 and of these, come will run the 2 wires to the main harness plug while others will ground it to the fins .
Pull the blower housing off and label every wire both sides of the plug.
From there is it up to you
I buy std 1/4" spade terminal plugs and rewire both engine & mower
Remember the alternator needs a seperate plug which in turn plugs into the main mower plug
Remove the kill wires from the coils and do not connect them till you have finished and checked that the kill wire is either open ( engine running ) or ground ( engine off ) and never shows voltage no matter what.
Some carb solenoids have 1 wire which will be power while other will have 2 and of these, come will run the 2 wires to the main harness plug while others will ground it to the fins .
#3
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
Thank you for your reply the harness that I have off of the poulan lawn tractor has a double pin plug that would plug into a carburetor solenoid so the motor that’s in the craftsman tractor that I’m trying to get going looks like it just has a two cycle carburetor on it there is no solenoid coming out of the bottom of the bowl so maybe I can A either close that circuit With a couple of wire tap connectors with a couple of spade connectors before the factory plug Then just letting that ground screw into where the thermal shield is on the bottom side of the motor grounds out into the block or B I can put the other carburetor on there from the Poulan lawn tractor Which is a Nikki and it has a solenoid on the carburetorGEt some paper tape
Pull the blower housing off and label every wire both sides of the plug.
From there is it up to you
I buy std 1/4" spade terminal plugs and rewire both engine & mower
Remember the alternator needs a seperate plug which in turn plugs into the main mower plug
Remove the kill wires from the coils and do not connect them till you have finished and checked that the kill wire is either open ( engine running ) or ground ( engine off ) and never shows voltage no matter what.
Some carb solenoids have 1 wire which will be power while other will have 2 and of these, come will run the 2 wires to the main harness plug while others will ground it to the fins .
#4
StarTech
StarTech
Model number are wrong so they need verifying.
But the first looks to be 313707-0126-E1 (2002) and the second looks to be 31A707-0525-B1 (2008)
Both six pin harnesses appear to be the same.
And I hate it when hacks up a wiring harness. That why I have the Molex connector housings with pins and sockets to correct the hacks. The connectors with pins and sockets are AMP versions.
The older Walbro carburetor came both without and with solenoid. If the solenoid is not present just the solenoid connector disconnected. Don't close that circuit as it would be a dead short circuit.
But the first looks to be 313707-0126-E1 (2002) and the second looks to be 31A707-0525-B1 (2008)
Both six pin harnesses appear to be the same.
And I hate it when hacks up a wiring harness. That why I have the Molex connector housings with pins and sockets to correct the hacks. The connectors with pins and sockets are AMP versions.
The older Walbro carburetor came both without and with solenoid. If the solenoid is not present just the solenoid connector disconnected. Don't close that circuit as it would be a dead short circuit.
#5
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
I’m familiar with Molex plugs end and crimpers but I’m not going to purchase this equipment to fix my lawnmower I don’t work on the stuff enough. See the attachment this is the harness that I have and it has a double pin plug one side is gray and one side is black and the black wire has a terminal loop and It would get screwed into the block if I don’t plug it then i guess it doesnt matter. Somebody cut the plug off of the alternator I can see where that plugs in to the harness the other one is a black kill switch that goes to the coil pack I understand that the only other thing I don’t understand is about the carburetor and if that’ll work or not I haven’t tried it yet but if I don’t need to hook that up I’ll just roll it up and zip tie it to the harnessModel number are wrong so they need verifying.
But the first looks to be 313707-0126-E1 (2002) and the second looks to be 31A707-0525-B1 (2008)
Both six pin harnesses appear to be the same.
And I hate it when hacks up a wiring harness. That why I have the Molex connector housings with pins and sockets to correct the hacks. The connectors with pins and sockets are AMP versions.
The older Walbro carburetor came both without and with solenoid. If the solenoid is not present just the solenoid connector disconnected. Don't close that circuit as it would be a dead short circuit.
#6
StarTech
StarTech
I can understand the cost of the crimpers being prohibitive as I have two of them that cost $70 each. I Actually was only an extra set of dies but the crimper supplier would not sell them separating. I was have to modify one set dies so I could crimp the male terminals without damaging the stop and guide tangs.
But being in the business of repairs they were well worth the expense for me and saves my customer and me a lot money and time as I don't need to change out complete harnesses. I did need to another crimper for the small amp sockets and pins but it also works on the weather pack terminals that I am now running into.
Anyway these crimpers are far superior to junk ones comes with bulk terminals that home owners usually can get easily.
But being in the business of repairs they were well worth the expense for me and saves my customer and me a lot money and time as I don't need to change out complete harnesses. I did need to another crimper for the small amp sockets and pins but it also works on the weather pack terminals that I am now running into.
Anyway these crimpers are far superior to junk ones comes with bulk terminals that home owners usually can get easily.
#8
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
Yeah I worked for a golf cart manufacturer for about eight years and used to use them all the time we would stretch golf carts so I would have to make all new harnesses for you it’s a great thing and a tool where you need it I just I’m trying to get through one mower that’s my personal property lolI can understand the cost of the crimpers being prohibitive as I have two of them that cost $70 each. I Actually was only an extra set of dies but the crimper supplier would not sell them separating. I was have to modify one set dies so I could crimp the male terminals without damaging the stop and guide tangs.
But being in the business of repairs they were well worth the expense for me and saves my customer and me a lot money and time as I don't need to change out complete harnesses. I did need to another crimper for the small amp sockets and pins but it also works on the weather pack terminals that I am now running into.
Anyway these crimpers are far superior to junk ones comes with bulk terminals that home owners usually can get easily.
#10
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
So what would be the best thing to do. Put the Nikki carburetor on and hook the plug up to it and then terminate the ground on the blockOr leave the carburetor that’s there on there and just leave the wires unhooked
#11
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
Yes you were right about SN had them typed wrongModel number are wrong so they need verifying.
But the first looks to be 313707-0126-E1 (2002) and the second looks to be 31A707-0525-B1 (2008)
Both six pin harnesses appear to be the same.
And I hate it when hacks up a wiring harness. That why I have the Molex connector housings with pins and sockets to correct the hacks. The connectors with pins and sockets are AMP versions.
The older Walbro carburetor came both without and with solenoid. If the solenoid is not present just the solenoid connector disconnected. Don't close that circuit as it would be a dead short circuit.
#13
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Why they use round pin plugs on the main engine connector and flat pin plugs everywhere else has always mystified me .
But I have a couple of flat pin crimpers so have no problems swapping over plugs.
I did try to get my hands on a B & S and a Tecmseh grab box of connectors & interchange harnesses when I first kicked off but they were forever on back order so just gave up
But I have a couple of flat pin crimpers so have no problems swapping over plugs.
I did try to get my hands on a B & S and a Tecmseh grab box of connectors & interchange harnesses when I first kicked off but they were forever on back order so just gave up
#14
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
So leave the plug empty? What about the ground loop that would normal screw into the block?Just leave the plug empty
You could wrap it if it worries you .
#15
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
So leave the plug empty? What about the ground loop that would normal screw into the block?
#20
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
From the top
Just tie the unused wires out of the way
Tape them over it ti makes you feel happy
The grey wire will be battery voltage whenever the ignition is on so you do not want it shorting to the mower
The stator in the photo is the diode rectified and the bottom end product so stick it in the just in case box.
The nikki is a better carb than the walbro from a fuel point of view.
The walbro is a more robust carb and gives fewer problems in use
So what
Just tie the unused wires out of the way
Tape them over it ti makes you feel happy
The grey wire will be battery voltage whenever the ignition is on so you do not want it shorting to the mower
The stator in the photo is the diode rectified and the bottom end product so stick it in the just in case box.
The nikki is a better carb than the walbro from a fuel point of view.
The walbro is a more robust carb and gives fewer problems in use
So what
#21
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
OK so i taped the
Ok so i taped it up and left the kill wire unhooked to the coil. I hooked up a battery and made sure there wasnt any voltage on that black wire to the coil. I tried to start it but it was making a clicking sound around where the starter solinoid is under the seat. so i unhooked the battery and came back inside im not sure who or what has worked on this before me But im looking at various wiring schematics trying to figure out if everything is right.From the top
Just tie the unused wires out of the way
Tape them over it ti makes you feel happy
The grey wire will be battery voltage whenever the ignition is on so you do not want it shorting to the mower
The stator in the photo is the diode rectified and the bottom end product so stick it in the just in case box.
The nikki is a better carb than the walbro from a fuel point of view.
The walbro is a more robust carb and gives fewer problems in use
So what
#22
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Get some jumpers and a good battery ( use your car )
Hook one jumper from the + on the starter motor to the + on the mowers battery
Engine should spin
If not
Try again with a second jumper from the battery - to a spot near the starter ( I use the drain plug )
Engine spins good = bad ground
If not
Do the same as above but use a good battery, If using your car / truck, leave it turned off
Starter spins good = bad battery in mower
Starter does not spin = bad starter
Hook one jumper from the + on the starter motor to the + on the mowers battery
Engine should spin
If not
Try again with a second jumper from the battery - to a spot near the starter ( I use the drain plug )
Engine spins good = bad ground
If not
Do the same as above but use a good battery, If using your car / truck, leave it turned off
Starter spins good = bad battery in mower
Starter does not spin = bad starter
#23
StarTech
Besides I don't get these from Briggs but through my electronics distributor. Briggs uses a mix bag of Molex, and TE Connectivity. Now Delphi (GM Packard 56) are usually on the mower side. But some mower OEMS are beginning to move over to Metri-Pack and Weather Pack terminals and connectors.
With you being in Australia you probably need to find a distributor over there as mine is in Lubbock, TX. Can you use the Molex, TE Connectivity, and Delphi PNs as I can send you a link to a three part document that AVB has uploaded but it is still a work in process. Tecumseh connectors are not covered as that was before his time in the small engine business and they are nearly dead here anyways.
StarTech
They don't; unless, you are referring to the complete mower setups. The only flat terminals Briggs used are the ignition coils which are usually .187 Faston terminals though a few are .250 Faston terminals.Why they use round pin plugs on the main engine connector and flat pin plugs everywhere else has always mystified me .
But I have a couple of flat pin crimpers so have no problems swapping over plugs.
I did try to get my hands on a B & S and a Tecmseh grab box of connectors & interchange harnesses when I first kicked off but they were forever on back order so just gave up
Besides I don't get these from Briggs but through my electronics distributor. Briggs uses a mix bag of Molex, and TE Connectivity. Now Delphi (GM Packard 56) are usually on the mower side. But some mower OEMS are beginning to move over to Metri-Pack and Weather Pack terminals and connectors.
With you being in Australia you probably need to find a distributor over there as mine is in Lubbock, TX. Can you use the Molex, TE Connectivity, and Delphi PNs as I can send you a link to a three part document that AVB has uploaded but it is still a work in process. Tecumseh connectors are not covered as that was before his time in the small engine business and they are nearly dead here anyways.
#24
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
That would be good when it is ready & much appreciated
Yes the mower is all 1/4" or 1/8" spades and the engines are everything but spades
Just rewired the cranking circuit on 4015 Murray ( badged Victa down here ).
A South African mob bought the only terminal factory down here decades ago when the car factories shifted to Chinese looms
They closed down all of the factories & built appartmants on the land.Apparently that is good foreign investment
Since then only spades available locally from car shops and some bullets from bike shops in blow moulded shop packs
Can't even get the tools for tubular pins .
Comes from living in a country that makes nothing any more.
Got a wholesaler I get the electical stuff from in commercial quantities ( and prices ) but he only stocks baldes .
Thus everything thta I do gets 1/4" spades
Yes the mower is all 1/4" or 1/8" spades and the engines are everything but spades
Just rewired the cranking circuit on 4015 Murray ( badged Victa down here ).
A South African mob bought the only terminal factory down here decades ago when the car factories shifted to Chinese looms
They closed down all of the factories & built appartmants on the land.Apparently that is good foreign investment
Since then only spades available locally from car shops and some bullets from bike shops in blow moulded shop packs
Can't even get the tools for tubular pins .
Comes from living in a country that makes nothing any more.
Got a wholesaler I get the electical stuff from in commercial quantities ( and prices ) but he only stocks baldes .
Thus everything thta I do gets 1/4" spades
#25
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
Based on the information you gave me the starter didn’t do anything at any time so can I take the starter off of the other motor and use itThat would be good when it is ready & much appreciated
Yes the mower is all 1/4" or 1/8" spades and the engines are everything but spades
Just rewired the cranking circuit on 4015 Murray ( badged Victa down here ).
A South African mob bought the only terminal factory down here decades ago when the car factories shifted to Chinese looms
They closed down all of the factories & built appartmants on the land.Apparently that is good foreign investment
Since then only spades available locally from car shops and some bullets from bike shops in blow moulded shop packs
Can't even get the tools for tubular pins .
Comes from living in a country that makes nothing any more.
Got a wholesaler I get the electical stuff from in commercial quantities ( and prices ) but he only stocks baldes .
Thus everything thta I do gets 1/4" spades
#26
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
And I know the starter would be good because the other tractor started right up before I broke the connecting rodBased on the information you gave me the starter didn’t do anything at any time so can I take the starter off of the other motor and use it
#27
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
In that case you have not made the right connections .
If you starter is a piggy back one you have to energise the solenoid to make the pinion throw out
And the + connection has to be directly to the starter, not the battery cable .
If you starter is a piggy back one you have to energise the solenoid to make the pinion throw out
And the + connection has to be directly to the starter, not the battery cable .
#28
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
Ok so here is an update for everyone who has been helping me or following this. We have lift off. She runs good. After we determined the starter was no good i put the other one on and the flywheel starter spinning but no spark. So i swapped the coil for the other coil and boom ? fired right up and She cuts good. Eventhough my battery is reading like 10.68volts it starts right up. I just wanted to thank you guys for helping me get it running. next weekend ill be out mowing for an hour rather than three and ill be riding rather than pushing. Ill get to spend that extra time with my family thank you so much guys.
#29
K
K_mase84
K
K_mase84
In that case you have not made the right connections .
If you starter is a piggy back one you have to energise the solenoid to make the pinion throw out
And the + connection has to be directly to the starter, not the battery cable .
[/QUOTE
Im not really sure which one it is but its exactly the same( the top has plastic on it with a spring and a gear and it looks cheaply made). It fit just like the other one. I guess i shouldve waited for a response before i threw all my bonus parts on and turned it over! Btw do you know what the compression for this motor should be? Im going to check itIn that case you have not made the right connections .
If you starter is a piggy back one you have to energise the solenoid to make the pinion throw out
And the + connection has to be directly to the starter, not the battery cable .