Replacing your blades

[Hustler27]

So I'm starting to get pretty frustrated. Just went out and bought a 30" breaker bar. Tried it twice and instead of the bolt holding strong like with the ratchet, it slipped and left me with a round bolt. I wish I would have stuck with the ratchet because that at least didn't ruin the bolt.

 

[Mr. Mower]

Spray plenty of WD-40 around the large nut/bolt prior to removal (did you use the correct size socket for that specific size large nut/bolt? If not then when trying to force any over tighten nut without the exact fitting socket, wrench, etc. will definitely result in rounding out the nut).

If it still won't move then apply heat to the large nut/bolt area a few times, then right before it cools try removing it.

But as it looks now, your only other option to remove it is to either cut into it and use a chisel and heavy blow hammer or cut it off completely and replace the entire spindle maybe?

This is another good example of why I always encourage the use of applying a "Torque value setting" and using "Anti-Seize" when tightening any size nuts, bolts, etc. to prevent from over tightening.

Never use an impact to tighten one of these blade bolts/large nuts, always use a torque wrench when doing so.

(I have these, this is what I use to apply direct heat to an over tighten large nut/bolt area when called for, never have done so on my mowers but have used this method on helping neighbors mowers, etc.).....

 

[The Chairman]

So I'm starting to get pretty frustrated.

I feel your pain, bro. If you're using a long breaker bar, the socket should be the same. The art is to get the load "balanced" so the socket stays on the fastener, and then bounce the crap out of that breaker bar. I have a six foot, 3/4" breaker bar that I have to use every now and then.The further away you're from the fastener, the more diligent you have to be about getting that socket on square and getting that load just right. If you try the hot wrench as mentioned above, hit it with a penetrating oil at the hottest temp. The shock will help break the jam and the cooling effect will draw oil deep into the crack.

Every now and then, I find hitting it with a impact gun going forward and THEN reverse will break that lock. You might even take it by an automotive shop and offer one of the mechanics a few bucks to break it loose. Ingersol Rand has a great record in that regard.

 

[Hustler27]

Only sockets I had with my largest wrench were the 12 point, so I went and bought a hex that fits and the hex is still gripping. I'm going to give the breaker bar with the hex a chance. If not I'll have to see if I can social distance borrow something to try cutting it with. Just to be clear, I didn't over tighten it guys...I just didn't change the blades for five years because I'm afraid I'll do it wrong and throw a blade through he neighbor's window.

 

[bertsmobile1]

When using a breaker bar on a blade bolt I put a jack under the head of the breaker bar so it gets held on tight.

And once again blade bolts self tighten in use.
It does not matter if they started finger tight after a lot of use they will get that tight noting will shift them.
How long this takes depends upon the conditions they are used in,

 

[bertsmobile1]

I feel your pain, bro. If you're using a long breaker bar, the socket should be the same. The art is to get the load "balanced" so the socket stays on the fastener, and then bounce the crap out of that breaker bar. I have a six foot, 3/4" breaker bar that I have to use every now and then.The further away you're from the fastener, the more diligent you have to be about getting that socket on square and getting that load just right. If you try the hot wrench as mentioned above, hit it with a penetrating oil at the hottest temp. The shock will help break the jam and the cooling effect will draw oil deep into the crack.

Every now and then, I find hitting it with a impact gun going forward and THEN reverse will break that lock. You might even take it by an automotive shop and offer one of the mechanics a few bucks to break it loose. Ingersol Rand has a great record in that regard.

HEat will not help getting a blade bolt off.
They are never ever rusted in
They are always overtightened
It is not a problem with the threads it is a problem with the head of the bolt
I have a 1300 ft lb impact that will shift most bolts
My landlord has a 2800 ft lb 1" drive impact and even that will not shift 3 to 4 bolts a year.
Usually it will be the right blade that self tightens to the point that the head has to be cut off.
Decks are designed so that the bolts self tighten in use because you do not want them to self loosen during use.

 

[The Chairman]

They are never ever rusted in

Any metal to metal contact has the ability to create a tight bond as it rusts together. It doesn't take much rust to seize a bolt and it's the rust you don't see that causes the problem. When this happens, you must break the bond between the two metals to get the bolt free. Heating up the bolt so that it swells can and does break the bond, but not always. Hitting the hot parts with penetrating lubricant will cause metals to shrink and often will suck some of the penetrant deep into the threads. It might take more than one or two cycles of heat and cold to get the bond to break. Steel also becomes plastic with heat. Heat the head enough, and the bolt will stretch a bit, releasing any pressure. You can argue with the physics all you want, but that's how it works. We call it the "hot wrench" for a reason. Do be careful though... heat can and will be transmitted through all metals and things like seals can be adversely affected. Just use reasonable care and you should be fine.

However, the absolute best way to bust things loose is prevention, prevention, prevention. Using anti-seize is an easy, cheap and incredibly effective way to prevent metals from creating any kind of bond. The carrier (grease) used in anti-seize will keep water out preventing any rust. In addition, the tiny, tiny flecks of a disimilar metal that can't rust does the rest and will continue to act as a lubricant should the grease dry out. Yeah, you don't like this and yet it seems that you have more than your share of stuck bolts. Perhaps you should give it a try. What have you got to loosen???

I was, at one time, an ASE Master Certified Auto & Truck Technician. My first job in the automotive world was back in 1969 and I spent 30 years in the service bays and learned how to deal with stubborn fasteners. I even moon lighted as a small engine mechanic and have never, ever met a blade bolt that would not come off. I'm the guy people would take their broken bolts to, because I know how to get them free without ruining the part.

 

[The Chairman]

Only sockets I had with my largest wrench were the 12 point, so I went and bought a hex that fits and the hex is still gripping.

Cool!!! 6 point sockets are the best and hopefully it's NOT chrome. Black (impact) sockets are slippery enough, but that chrome is just silly slippery. You'll find that black (impact) sockets also have a much thicker wall, which helps them to retain their size integrity under stress.

 

[keakar]

So I still can't get the first blade I tried to replace off yet, but I decided to try the other two. Came off no problem. Image below seems to suggest why not to wait seven years to replace your blades. I'm thinking if I can get the third one off and replace all three, I'll see a difference when I mow again.

i always keep a small 2x4 around for stuck blades, wedge it between the blade and deck shell as you use a breaker bar to loosen the nut. on some i had to use a cheater pipe as well and i had one the whole mower was rotating and i had to get a guy to hold it still. some of those bolts just get over tightened to the point of impossible to get off

 

[StarTech]

I kinda gave up on the breaker bar with a 6 ft cheater after I got a AirCat 1150, installed hi flow couplers and adaptors. I got power now with the proper sockets to loosen and install even those 7/8 cross threading center locking nuts. which torqued to 300 ft-lbs. So far only twisted in two one 1/2" extension. 1300 Ft lbs can usually take about anything loose or break it trying. I have removed nuts that with breaker bar, cheater bar and me boucing near the end of the cheater. I weight over 250 lbs. But the impact don't complain as much as I do the next day.