Replacement metal tip for plug wire_Stihl brushcutter (FS 85)?

[GrowinWeeds]

This is on older Stihl FS85 brushcutter, but any replacement's OK, if it works.
Anyone found a good replacement plug wire, metal CONNECTOR tip [?female terminal] (guess style that “crimps" on outside of wire), w/o buying new wire & boot for this or similar equipment?

(Pic) Orig. has only a 1/4“ long, right-angle piece of wire that punches through plug wire (in one side, out other).

No “crimping” feature (like most auto or lawnmower plug wires) or anything securing the contact tip TO the plug wire outer covering.

The (coiled) part of terminal pulls off of, or -OUT- of the plug wire, just by removing boot.

The OEM (coiled) plug connector is v. hard to get off of plug (no rust/ gunk). Even w/ -just- the plug & tip laying on a bench.

The OEM design, it's V. hard to work the boot off the plug (snaking a bit of wire out of boot) w/o the unsecured 1/4" long "prong" pulling out of wire.
Thanks.

 

[Rivets]

That type of connector is used because of equipment vibration, rarely will ever come loose. When removing or installing a bit of dish soap is your friend. Should be able to find at an auto or marine parts supplier. Or this site. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIudPF6ffehwMVKFR_AB1M_yurEAQYAyABEgKOIPD_BwE

 

[GrowinWeeds]

Thanks for link, but I don't really want another 'push-pin stick in the wire' connector.
"bit of dish soap is your friend." Doubt plug connectors need be this tight.

How get soap in, if can't move boot back enough (nor feed slack wire forward), to expose connector?
Maybe other spray lubricants "safe for rubber? (boot is not silicone; prbly not neoprene)

Looking at whole size / config of OEM boot (opening size for wire), fairly sm. dia. (over plug insulator), I'm not sure a std., (replacement) *90 deg*, *crimp-on* plug wire terminal, will fit around the boot's 90. It's near impossible (NO connector attached) to pull the wire around the 90, out the big hole - to crimp on a 90 connector, then push the crimped terminal (long leg) back around the 90.

I failed at grabbing & pull the wire around the v. short 90 (w/ pick tool). Might do it, but likely split the boot. (Maybe a flexible silicone boot or diff configuration).
Depending on (short leg) length of a 90 crimp on, it may *push* thru the sm. hole of boot. Old boot's not stretchy (never was). Maybe electrician's "wire lube."

The way the connector prong just 'push-pins' in side of wire - nothing hold it - except boot wall, seems incredibly cheap.
The link Rivets gave, calls them "marine" plug components.
Looks like the style may be ok, until remove / replace the boot & connector, several times.

How possible to remove boot & connector repeatedly w/o putting pressure on prong sticking in the plug wire.
The hole in wire (& conductor inside wire) will wallow out.
On this Stihl, mess up the end of wire - buy the wire & ? coil unit.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Get a plain rubber boot that has ribs moulded on the inside to lock into the grooves in the spark plug
Remove the current boot and screw in a stainless steel or brass pan headed screw into the end of the HT leadso it pokes out just far enough to touch the other side of the rubber boot
Remove the cap of the end of the spark plug
The cap has to be a tight fit on the wire, this is where the dish soap comes into play
I use silicon spray lube , just a little .
Victa has been doing this since 1972 and 5,000,000 2 stroke lawnmowers worked just fine like that
The screw has to have a domed head so it does not puncture the cap for obvious reasons , zap zap
There are 2 styles of rubber boots .
The cheap ones that have no ribs and the more expensive ones that do have the ribs
Suggest you pop into a mower repair shop to get one
Don't ask for a VICTA cap because the US government banned them so the service man will have no idea what you are talking about if you are in the USA Canada or Mexico
Any where else in the world will keep the Victa cap
I do this to nearly all of the small hand eld engines where the HT lead has been cut way too short to get a proper hold on it to pull it off
If your plug has a non removeable termina screw then get the equivalent one that has a removable terminal screw.
The terminal is stainless Steel which is why you use a SS screw
IF the wire is all munched up then a glob of silicon or adheasive heat shrink is the go .
Works like a charm
Victa cap & screws

 

[GrowinWeeds]

@ bersmobile1, Appreciate good details. Can you / others clarify couple points?
Speak of 2 diff "caps?" Not nit-picking.
1. Rubber / silicone "cap" (fits over the plug) is commonly "boot" in USA (autos, power equip, etc).
2. "Cap" (on sm. end of plug, called "plug terminal") [some plugs have small screw-on terminal tip or "cap"]

1st, why replace (any style) plug wire's (female) friction fit connector w/ a screw? "screw in a stainless steel ... PAN head screw ..." (HT= high tension).
Next part unclear: The screw (in bare end (not side) of HT lead), will just TOUCH the plug's TERMINAL end?
Is this (mainly) if can't find suitable replacement connector (for HT lead)?

And now firm contact of pan head screw -to- plug terminal depends on a rubber boot, keeping metal parts in contact?
* Wouldn't a (good) replacement female connector AND a boot the (90 deg) replacement connector will squeeze through, have better contact?

Also don't follow why remove the screw-on terminal "cap" (for a 90 deg boot)?
Not sure if w/ (pan head screw) on a 90 deg BOOT / connection, the plug's terminal (w/ or w/o screw-on cap) extends enough into the boot to make good contact w/ suggested screw.
I'd have to measure precisely .
Also seems if the HT lead moves in / out of boot's small opening (any), or screw's head position may not align w/ plug's terminal end.

 

[Rivets]

You requested information on any type of replacement connector to use on you brushcutter. I gave you info on where to get a replacement connector and boot, plus why Stihl uses that style of connector. Bert gave you a couple other types of solutions which may work with info on where they are used. Now that you have read both replies you are over thinking how to fix the problem and why we recommend the choices we posted. You must realize there is a reason for our replies. 1. A brush cutter has a lot of vibration, so you need a connection which can handle that type of vibration. 2. A ribbed boot will grab the plug, which in turn help keep the connector tight and clean. 3. I have no idea why you ask about removing the boot multiple times. At the most you would remove the boot and connector once a year when doing routine maintenance. That’s not very often. 4. Finally, the high tension lead on these types of equipment are always short to avoid the possibility of getting caught on something because they are exposed. Again a reason not to play with them unless necessary. Don’t over think it and go with your gut as to which works best for you. Also with dish soap, just dump some in the boot and slide the wire and terminal in. Wipe up excess. Soap won’t hurt anything.

 

[StarTech]

There is a way of installing a 90 degree plug wire terminal though is not like the reg 7-8mm plug wire terminals. First get a 90 degree 7mm plug wire terminal like the Rotary 9161. Now strip back the wire where you have about 1/4" to 5/16" of bare wire. This so you can fold it back. Now using a pair slip joint pliers slowly start crimp the terminal on making sure you overlap the terminal wings as you are dealing with a 5 mm plug wire and not a 7 mm wire. This way you can crimp down tighter. Once the terminal is install take some dish soap and apply it to the terminal sparely (only use what is needed). With terminal soaped up insert it into the rubber boot making sure the terminal is facing up the right direction. Now it take practice to do this but it can be done.

Here one I just did for Echo blower


using the Rotary 9161 or Stens 135-008 Terminal

 

[Fish]

There is a way of installing a 90 degree plug wire terminal though is not like the reg 7-8mm plug wire terminals. First get a 90 degree 7mm plug wire terminal like the Rotary 9161. Now strip back the wire where you have about 1/4" to 5/16" of bare wire. This so you can fold it back. Now using a pair slip joint pliers slowly start crimp the terminal on making sure you overlap the terminal wings as you are dealing with a 5 mm plug wire and not a 7 mm wire. This way you can crimp down tighter. Once the terminal is install take some dish soap and apply it to the terminal sparely (only use what is needed). With terminal soaped up insert it into the rubber boot making sure the terminal is facing up the right direction. Now it take practice to do this but it can be done.

Here one I just did for Echo blower
View attachment 69434
View attachment 69432
using the Rotary 9161 or Stens 135-008 Terminal
View attachment 69433

This is what I have gone back with in the past.

 

[Rivets]

Because the high tension lead is short on these coils the only time I’ve used that style of connector is if someone has failed attaching the spring connector and failed, butchering the end. If I use them I make one adaption. I take a small piece of NiChrome or copper wire, about 1” long, and bend it into a U shape. Push one end into the center of the high tension lead and rest the other end on the outside of the lead. Then I will crimp the connector over the top. If you strip the end back to far you can easily end up with a lead that is too short to connect to the plug properly.

 

[StarTech]

Most high tension leads are replaceable if you know how. Just depend the cost of a replacement coil if it is worth the trouble. Just replace a lead last week on a $100 coil that mice chewed up the lead.