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Replacement metal tip for plug wire_Stihl brushcutter (FS 85)?

#1

G

GrowinWeeds

This is on older Stihl FS85 brushcutter, but any replacement's OK, if it works.
Anyone found a good replacement plug wire, metal CONNECTOR tip [?female terminal] (guess style that “crimps" on outside of wire), w/o buying new wire & boot for this or similar equipment?

(Pic) Orig. has only a 1/4“ long, right-angle piece of wire that punches through plug wire (in one side, out other).

No “crimping” feature (like most auto or lawnmower plug wires) or anything securing the contact tip TO the plug wire outer covering.

The (coiled) part of terminal pulls off of, or -OUT- of the plug wire, just by removing boot.

The OEM (coiled) plug connector is v. hard to get off of plug (no rust/ gunk). Even w/ -just- the plug & tip laying on a bench.

The OEM design, it's V. hard to work the boot off the plug (snaking a bit of wire out of boot) w/o the unsecured 1/4" long "prong" pulling out of wire.
Thanks.

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#2

R

Rivets

That type of connector is used because of equipment vibration, rarely will ever come loose. When removing or installing a bit of dish soap is your friend. Should be able to find at an auto or marine parts supplier. Or this site. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIudPF6ffehwMVKFR_AB1M_yurEAQYAyABEgKOIPD_BwE


#3

G

GrowinWeeds

Thanks for link, but I don't really want another 'push-pin stick in the wire' connector.
"bit of dish soap is your friend." Doubt plug connectors need be this tight.

How get soap in, if can't move boot back enough (nor feed slack wire forward), to expose connector?
Maybe other spray lubricants "safe for rubber? (boot is not silicone; prbly not neoprene)

Looking at whole size / config of OEM boot (opening size for wire), fairly sm. dia. (over plug insulator), I'm not sure a std., (replacement) *90 deg*, *crimp-on* plug wire terminal, will fit around the boot's 90. It's near impossible (NO connector attached) to pull the wire around the 90, out the big hole - to crimp on a 90 connector, then push the crimped terminal (long leg) back around the 90.

I failed at grabbing & pull the wire around the v. short 90 (w/ pick tool). Might do it, but likely split the boot. (Maybe a flexible silicone boot or diff configuration).
Depending on (short leg) length of a 90 crimp on, it may *push* thru the sm. hole of boot. Old boot's not stretchy (never was). Maybe electrician's "wire lube."

The way the connector prong just 'push-pins' in side of wire - nothing hold it - except boot wall, seems incredibly cheap.
The link Rivets gave, calls them "marine" plug components.
Looks like the style may be ok, until remove / replace the boot & connector, several times.

How possible to remove boot & connector repeatedly w/o putting pressure on prong sticking in the plug wire.
The hole in wire (& conductor inside wire) will wallow out.
On this Stihl, mess up the end of wire - buy the wire & ? coil unit.


#4

B

bertsmobile1

Get a plain rubber boot that has ribs moulded on the inside to lock into the grooves in the spark plug
Remove the current boot and screw in a stainless steel or brass pan headed screw into the end of the HT leadso it pokes out just far enough to touch the other side of the rubber boot
Remove the cap of the end of the spark plug
The cap has to be a tight fit on the wire, this is where the dish soap comes into play
I use silicon spray lube , just a little .
Victa has been doing this since 1972 and 5,000,000 2 stroke lawnmowers worked just fine like that
The screw has to have a domed head so it does not puncture the cap for obvious reasons , zap zap
There are 2 styles of rubber boots .
The cheap ones that have no ribs and the more expensive ones that do have the ribs
Suggest you pop into a mower repair shop to get one
Don't ask for a VICTA cap because the US government banned them so the service man will have no idea what you are talking about if you are in the USA Canada or Mexico
Any where else in the world will keep the Victa cap
I do this to nearly all of the small hand eld engines where the HT lead has been cut way too short to get a proper hold on it to pull it off
If your plug has a non removeable termina screw then get the equivalent one that has a removable terminal screw.
The terminal is stainless Steel which is why you use a SS screw
IF the wire is all munched up then a glob of silicon or adheasive heat shrink is the go .
Works like a charm
Victa cap & screws


#5

G

GrowinWeeds

@ bersmobile1, Appreciate good details. Can you / others clarify couple points?
Speak of 2 diff "caps?" Not nit-picking.
1. Rubber / silicone "cap" (fits over the plug) is commonly "boot" in USA (autos, power equip, etc).
2. "Cap" (on sm. end of plug, called "plug terminal") [some plugs have small screw-on terminal tip or "cap"]

1st, why replace (any style) plug wire's (female) friction fit connector w/ a screw? "screw in a stainless steel ... PAN head screw ..." (HT= high tension).
Next part unclear: The screw (in bare end (not side) of HT lead), will just TOUCH the plug's TERMINAL end?
Is this (mainly) if can't find suitable replacement connector (for HT lead)?

And now firm contact of pan head screw -to- plug terminal depends on a rubber boot, keeping metal parts in contact?
* Wouldn't a (good) replacement female connector AND a boot the (90 deg) replacement connector will squeeze through, have better contact?

Also don't follow why remove the screw-on terminal "cap" (for a 90 deg boot)?
Not sure if w/ (pan head screw) on a 90 deg BOOT / connection, the plug's terminal (w/ or w/o screw-on cap) extends enough into the boot to make good contact w/ suggested screw.
I'd have to measure precisely .
Also seems if the HT lead moves in / out of boot's small opening (any), or screw's head position may not align w/ plug's terminal end.


#6

R

Rivets

You requested information on any type of replacement connector to use on you brushcutter. I gave you info on where to get a replacement connector and boot, plus why Stihl uses that style of connector. Bert gave you a couple other types of solutions which may work with info on where they are used. Now that you have read both replies you are over thinking how to fix the problem and why we recommend the choices we posted. You must realize there is a reason for our replies. 1. A brush cutter has a lot of vibration, so you need a connection which can handle that type of vibration. 2. A ribbed boot will grab the plug, which in turn help keep the connector tight and clean. 3. I have no idea why you ask about removing the boot multiple times. At the most you would remove the boot and connector once a year when doing routine maintenance. That’s not very often. 4. Finally, the high tension lead on these types of equipment are always short to avoid the possibility of getting caught on something because they are exposed. Again a reason not to play with them unless necessary. Don’t over think it and go with your gut as to which works best for you. Also with dish soap, just dump some in the boot and slide the wire and terminal in. Wipe up excess. Soap won’t hurt anything.


#7

StarTech

StarTech

There is a way of installing a 90 degree plug wire terminal though is not like the reg 7-8mm plug wire terminals. First get a 90 degree 7mm plug wire terminal like the Rotary 9161. Now strip back the wire where you have about 1/4" to 5/16" of bare wire. This so you can fold it back. Now using a pair slip joint pliers slowly start crimp the terminal on making sure you overlap the terminal wings as you are dealing with a 5 mm plug wire and not a 7 mm wire. This way you can crimp down tighter. Once the terminal is install take some dish soap and apply it to the terminal sparely (only use what is needed). With terminal soaped up insert it into the rubber boot making sure the terminal is facing up the right direction. Now it take practice to do this but it can be done.

Here one I just did for Echo blower
1722981272243.png
1722980529494.png
using the Rotary 9161 or Stens 135-008 Terminal
1722980729506.png


#8

Fish

Fish

StarTech said:
There is a way of installing a 90 degree plug wire terminal though is not like the reg 7-8mm plug wire terminals. First get a 90 degree 7mm plug wire terminal like the Rotary 9161. Now strip back the wire where you have about 1/4" to 5/16" of bare wire. This so you can fold it back. Now using a pair slip joint pliers slowly start crimp the terminal on making sure you overlap the terminal wings as you are dealing with a 5 mm plug wire and not a 7 mm wire. This way you can crimp down tighter. Once the terminal is install take some dish soap and apply it to the terminal sparely (only use what is needed). With terminal soaped up insert it into the rubber boot making sure the terminal is facing up the right direction. Now it take practice to do this but it can be done.

Here one I just did for Echo blower
View attachment 69434
View attachment 69432
using the Rotary 9161 or Stens 135-008 Terminal
View attachment 69433
Click to expand...
This is what I have gone back with in the past.


#9

R

Rivets

Because the high tension lead is short on these coils the only time I’ve used that style of connector is if someone has failed attaching the spring connector and failed, butchering the end. If I use them I make one adaption. I take a small piece of NiChrome or copper wire, about 1” long, and bend it into a U shape. Push one end into the center of the high tension lead and rest the other end on the outside of the lead. Then I will crimp the connector over the top. If you strip the end back to far you can easily end up with a lead that is too short to connect to the plug properly.


#10

StarTech

StarTech

Most high tension leads are replaceable if you know how. Just depend the cost of a replacement coil if it is worth the trouble. Just replace a lead last week on a $100 coil that mice chewed up the lead.


#11

R

Rivets

I understand that they may be replaced, but my repair is cheaper and can be done by anyone with a bit of mechanical expertise. Plus it is cheaper.


#12

StarTech

StarTech

Can't argue with that but a short 5mm lead isn't that expensive either and most by the time the equipment get here these 2 cycle have heat harden those leads. But $0.85 cost for a one foot section of lead isn't that bad either which that lead is shorter than that.


#13

R

Rivets

I agree, but as you stated, you must know how to replace it. Also, labor will be more as to do it right you need to remove the coil, plus glue the new lead back in, plus still need to add a new connector. Definitely a difference in cost.


#14

StarTech

StarTech

I reckon I can use a penny worth of glue. And I am not that greedy on labor as I don't charge for a hour when it takes five minutes besides I usually having to rework the carbs most of the time. two handhelds are usually done at near cost here as they are what brings the more expensive repairs.


#15

B

bertsmobile1

Rivets said:
Because the high tension lead is short on these coils the only time I’ve used that style of connector is if someone has failed attaching the spring connector and failed, butchering the end. If I use them I make one adaption. I take a small piece of NiChrome or copper wire, about 1” long, and bend it into a U shape. Push one end into the center of the high tension lead and rest the other end on the outside of the lead. Then I will crimp the connector over the top. If you strip the end back to far you can easily end up with a lead that is too short to connect to the plug properly.
Click to expand...
That is the point of using the screw down the wire
Usually the end of the wire will be butchered
The rubber boot is small so will grab the plug and not protrude yet not fall off if the unit is inverted
And of course it is cheap
Because the screw just touches on the plug and the actual boot / cap is what grabs onto the plug you can then pull the cap off the plug all day & all night without damaging the end of the HT lead any more than it already is .
The caps / boots we get down here come with 4 mm or 6 mm holes for the HT lead so it makes a tight fit on the 5mm or 7mm HT cable
This of course will only work with a wire with a solid copper conductor .


#16

B

bertsmobile1

Rivets said:
I agree, but as you stated, you must know how to replace it. Also, labor will be more as to do it right you need to remove the coil, plus glue the new lead back in, plus still need to add a new connector. Definitely a difference in cost.
Click to expand...
I do it with Victa coils because to force Australians to retire their 2 stroke Victas, B & S jacked up the price of new coils to $ 80 Aus , WHOLESALE + 10% GST so over $ 100 to the customer + labour .
And the magneto on a power torque is under the engine ( as is the flywheel ) so it is an engine out job to replace the coils ≈ 1 hour
Before the B &S take over magnetos were $ 15 , wholesale and of course made in China .
The older ones with the external trigger were also $ 15 and the trigger in a metal case was another $ 5 .


#17

R

RevB

GrowinWeeds said:
This is on older Stihl FS85 brushcutter, but any replacement's OK, if it works.
Anyone found a good replacement plug wire, metal CONNECTOR tip [?female terminal] (guess style that “crimps" on outside of wire), w/o buying new wire & boot for this or similar equipment?

(Pic) Orig. has only a 1/4“ long, right-angle piece of wire that punches through plug wire (in one side, out other).

No “crimping” feature (like most auto or lawnmower plug wires) or anything securing the contact tip TO the plug wire outer covering.

The (coiled) part of terminal pulls off of, or -OUT- of the plug wire, just by removing boot.

The OEM (coiled) plug connector is v. hard to get off of plug (no rust/ gunk). Even w/ -just- the plug & tip laying on a bench.

The OEM design, it's V. hard to work the boot off the plug (snaking a bit of wire out of boot) w/o the unsecured 1/4" long "prong" pulling out of wire.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

NGK (8328) LB01EP Spark Plug Cap , Black​

Screws on to the existing wire.​



#18

L

lbrac

GrowinWeeds said:
Thanks for link, but I don't really want another 'push-pin stick in the wire' connector.
"bit of dish soap is your friend." Doubt plug connectors need be this tight.

How get soap in, if can't move boot back enough (nor feed slack wire forward), to expose connector?
Maybe other spray lubricants "safe for rubber? (boot is not silicone; prbly not neoprene)

Looking at whole size / config of OEM boot (opening size for wire), fairly sm. dia. (over plug insulator), I'm not sure a std., (replacement) *90 deg*, *crimp-on* plug wire terminal, will fit around the boot's 90. It's near impossible (NO connector attached) to pull the wire around the 90, out the big hole - to crimp on a 90 connector, then push the crimped terminal (long leg) back around the 90.

I failed at grabbing & pull the wire around the v. short 90 (w/ pick tool). Might do it, but likely split the boot. (Maybe a flexible silicone boot or diff configuration).
Depending on (short leg) length of a 90 crimp on, it may *push* thru the sm. hole of boot. Old boot's not stretchy (never was). Maybe electrician's "wire lube."

The way the connector prong just 'push-pins' in side of wire - nothing hold it - except boot wall, seems incredibly cheap.
The link Rivets gave, calls them "marine" plug components.
Looks like the style may be ok, until remove / replace the boot & connector, several times.

How possible to remove boot & connector repeatedly w/o putting pressure on prong sticking in the plug wire.
The hole in wire (& conductor inside wire) will wallow out.
On this Stihl, mess up the end of wire - buy the wire & ? coil unit.
Click to expand...
It's been years since I used the type of spark plug cap (Sparky, if I recall correctly) in your picture on my dirt bikes. As I recall, I lubed the wire insulation with motor oil and stuck in into the small end of the cap until it bottomed at the 90 deg. turn. I then used needle nose pliers to reach into the plug end of the cap to pull the plug wire around the 90 deg. turn and out the plug opening. The short 90 deg. end of the coiled wire connector inserts into the underside of the plug wire that gets pulled back into the cap until the plug wire turns the 90 deg. back into the cap w/ the wire coil turned to receive the plug connector. If properly installed, these caps worked well and lasted longer than most OEM caps. See:


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