Detailed Clutch Removal Instructions:
The steps according to the manual:
1. Remove clutch shield
2. Remove clutch bracket (below frame, fits into slot on clutch housing)
3. Loosen spring tension on belt idler pulley and remove drive belts. (Alternative -- 15/16" socket on breaker bar)
4. Unplug wires from clutch. Loosen clutch center bolt. Slide clutch back [Good luck with that] and remove hex socket bolts to remove clutch and stub shaft together.
5. Remove clutch from stub shaft. [You may need to use a small hydraulic press]
6. Replace in reverse order.
Removing the belts:
The manual says to remove the idler pulley tension spring to remove the drive belts. I've used a pry bar or long screwdriver as shown in this video, but the safer and better practice is to use an 15/16" socket on a breaker bar because you get better leverage and a safer grip.
Idle Pulley Spring:
The spring tension is strong, so if you remove it (which may be necessary) you will need tools like needle nose pliers, vice grips, etc. to keep a firm grip on it as you pull. Be careful because you can get hurt when the grip fails. It is difficult to remove and even more difficult to reinstall. Leather work gloves may protect you from scrapes and cuts.
Removing the clutch:
The 700 series clutches are pressed onto a stub shaft and the stub shaft is mounted to the end of the crankshaft with five hex-socket machine bolts. The owner's manual states to remove the clutch you remove the hex-socket bolts first. There is just enough room between the back of the clutch assembly and the stub base to insert an "L" angled hex wrench. (Sorry I don't remember the size.) The bolts are going to be tight. Use penetrating oil. You may need a small diameter, short length of pipe to fit over the allen wrench for leverage.
Once the bolts are removed, the clutch & stub shaft can be lowered straight to the ground when the clutch electrical cable connector is disconnected. The other benefit of removing the stub shaft first is you don't have to FAIL trying to get the clutch off the end of the stub shaft after it's jammed against the rear of the frame.
Inspect the stub shaft.
With the clutch off the stub shaft, inspect both ends of the shaft part for wear. If you see a groove about the same width as the bearing race, that is caused by the inner part of the bearing grinding down the shaft. If you see a groove, order a replacement stub shaft. Check the key slot for wear and damage. Don't forget to reinstall the stub shaft spacer.
Installing the Clutch:
Recommend you put some anti-seize compound on the clutch shaft before installing the clutch.
Remember to align the key slot of the stub shaft with the key slot of the clutch before sliding the clutch onto the stub shaft.
Inspect the gib key (a tapered key with a tang on the end). Look for wear and damage and replace the gib key if damaged or is sloppy in the key slot.
Inspect the clutch retaining bolt. If the flats of the bolt are rounded, replace the bolt with a high-grade one. Torque the bolt to 55 foot pounds. Rest a pry bar or a big screwdriver onto the right-side frame and insert it into the teeth of the flywheel to stop it from turning under torque.
Remember to have the clutch bracket (below the rear frame member) inserted into the clutch housing to stop the clutch from rotating when the clutch is engaged.
Installing the belts:
You have to put the belts on over the clutch bell pulley and over the driveshaft pulley. The problem is getting them onto the idler pulley. Use the 15/16" socket and breaker bar. If you removed the spring, it can be difficult to stretch. One solution is to buy a long "eye" bolt (a threaded rod with circular end). Drill a hole through the left frame near the original spring-end fitting, insert the eye bolt through the hole from the inside and connect the eye to the spring. Add a washer and nut to the threaded end, and tighten to stretch the spring.
(I saw an interesting Y/Tube video where the author secured one end of the spring into a vise, then bent the spring to open space between the coils. He inserted coins (or washers) into the space of each coil. He turned the spring around to bend in the other direction and inserted coins on the new side to make the spring straight. The coins lengthened the spring, after which he removed the coins.)
Burnish the new clutch
Burnish by engaging clutch for 30 seconds, off for 30 seconds, on for 30 seconds, etch for 5 times at half throttle, the same on-off routine 5 times at full throttle.
