I've searched and watched several videos on removing this clutch, but none really show or describe HOW to get the thing off the shaft without damaging stuff (pulleys, shaft, etc
).
I removed the belts and bolt on the back. Now what? The back frame prevents using a gear puller (local GH dealer said never use a gear puller).
Does the electric clutch come off separately from the double pulleys?? (Noticed the Xtreme clutch comes with new pulleys)
I'm as good as the next guy using excessive force with hammers and crowbars, but there must be a better way.
Thanks,
Ken
#2
Hammermechanicman
I use a bolt that has been drilled in the head about 3/8" deep. Bolt is installed without a washer and i use an air hammer ont the bolt. Never had a problem getting a clutch off.
Funny how things happen
I am waiting for a new Warner 5218-248 clutch right now to go on a Z master .
In this case the top bearing had collapsed and siezed onto the PTO shaft .
The one comment I will make about DonyBoys video is the use of the bolt to bear against .
If you do this you should double nut the end about 3 or 4 threads in so when you screw it into the PTO shaft the nuts bear against the end of the PTO shaft to take the load & prevent damage to the end of the internal thread , which you will of course not notice till you are under there with the clutch in your hand , getting heavier by he second wondering why the bolt won't catch the threads .
DO not use the original PTO bolt for this job as it is only a grade 5 and can be bent , go get a grade 9 bolt .
As an aside , I usually put a short allan headed bolt that is fully threaded into every shaft that I am going to put a puller onto to protect the threads .
Pullers work better when driven by an impact wrench ( even one you hit with a hammer ) as the jerky application of the torque tends to shock stuck parts apart .