Regulator voltage

[StarTech]

IL if you had looked the image I posted it gives you the regulator for batteryless systems. PN 698102 superseded to 698315. It has a large electrolytic capacitor that serves as a mini battery to provide voltage feedback for the regulator.

 

[ILENGINE]

IL if you had looked the image I posted it gives you the regulator for batteryless systems. PN 698102 superseded to 698315. It has a large electrolytic capacitor that serves as a mini battery to provide voltage feedback for the regulator.
View attachment 65380
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True, but the picture posted by the OP at post #3, the regulator only has one mounting bolt not two for the 698315

 

[StarTech]

I understand that but it is probably the reason it is not working as someone installed the wrong one earlier. Or it was installed at the factory for a battery system. All I can go by is the info that Briggs provides.

Some techs think just if it connects it is the right one.

 

[ILENGINE]

I understand that but it is probably the reason it is not working as someone installed the wrong one earlier. Or it was installed at the factory for a battery system. All I can go by is the info that Briggs provides.

Some techs think just if it connects it is the right one.

Installed at the factory for a battery system is a very good possibility. His engine does come with the steel ring gear flywheel and list an electric starter on the IPL.

 

[Arkus55]

Thank you for all the comments and suggestions. I checked the stator output voltage with the rectifier connected as suggested. It read 40 Vac with the PTO engaged. So that is working correctly. I also checked the rectifier output again, still at 8 Vdc. So I decided to prove a theory and connected a 12V battery inline (acting like a standard mower battery). The output from the rectifier was now around 13.8 - 14 Vdc. Which I believe means I ordered the wrong part and have been chasing my tail ever since.

Leason learned, I ordered a part that looked exactly the same assuming that it was correct instead of researching for myself. I'm not sure if there is an identical part number, single bolt vs 2 bolt design, that meets my needs. But at least I now have the proper direction.

Thanks again for the help!

I understand that but it is probably the reason it is not working as someone installed the wrong one earlier. Or it was installed at the factory for a battery system. All I can go by is the info that Briggs provides.

Some techs think just if it connects it is the right one.

Please see my description of the troubleshoot I have completed at the bottom of the post. Is this thinking correct? I worked on helicopters for 24 years. But I am very weak on electrical (But learning!). The last question would be just to double check about the single mount bolt vs 2 bolts. If this is the correct rectifier and there isn't one with a single bolt, I will just drill and tap a second mounting hole.

Thanks for the help!!!

 

[StarTech]

All I can go by is the service info Briggs provides. There might very well be one version but I have not seen any info on one that is for the battery less system.

Your tests did verify that you have the wrong regulator for your application.

 

[TobyU]

Yes, that's not going to work properly without a battery in the system but you could just order you a heavy duty enough diode and convert your 36 AC volts to DC and or possibly add a resistor so you would have between 12 and 15 volts all the time.
This would make the regulator unnecessary.

 

[StarTech]

It will take a huge wattage resistor that must be heatsinked and a diode that can handle 10-15 amp constant current. Yes the clutch only pulls around 3-5 amps but I have over rated my components by 50-100%. Borderline sizing only leads to early failures.

On top of that the in rush current could destroy the electric clutch. Is it really worth it to experiment trying to make an unregulated power supply for a non constant load.