Regulator voltage

VegetiveSteam

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I have a B&S Vanguard engine 356776-3046-G1. It is installed on an old Scag SWZ 52" walk behind, pull start. I am having problems with the PTO clutch engagement. The PTO would engage at first. But if it was hot and shut off, it wouldn't engage again. Then it stopped working all together. I checked the air gap of the PTO and the ohms reading is within limits. At full throttle, the voltage coming from the stator is 38V ac. The output voltage is only 6-7V dc. I replaced the regulator/rectifier with the same outcome, somewhere aroung 8V dc. Am I missing something? I have double checked the grounds, etc. Again, this is a non-battery system. So there isn't any back voltage requirements that I can find.
The stator is putting out as it should and you've replace the regulator so you should be able to eliminate those two things as well as the flywheel magnets. Is the 6-7 vdc output voltage being checked with everything connected as it would normally be? If so, you should have at least battery voltage at the output side of the regulator. At that point your issue is somewhere between the voltage regulator and the battery. Wiring,key switch, connection, ect. If you're just checking the output side of the regulator without it being connected to the battery as mentioned, it will not function properly. The regulator has to be excited by battery voltage to work properly.
 

ILENGINE

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The stator is putting out as it should and you've replace the regulator so you should be able to eliminate those two things as well as the flywheel magnets. Is the 6-7 vdc output voltage being checked with everything connected as it would normally be? If so, you should have at least battery voltage at the output side of the regulator. At that point your issue is somewhere between the voltage regulator and the battery. Wiring,key switch, connection, ect. If you're just checking the output side of the regulator without it being connected to the battery as mentioned, it will not function properly. The regulator has to be excited by battery voltage to work properly.
In this guys application it is recoil start with no electric start therefore there is no battery to supply power to the regualtor. this engine is supposed to have the batteryless regulator to supply power to the clutch without a battery.
 

VegetiveSteam

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In this guys application it is recoil start with no electric start therefore there is no battery to supply power to the regualtor. this engine is supposed to have the batteryless regulator to supply power to the clutch without a battery.
Ah yes, I see where I read right past that in more than one spot even. I saw regulator in most of the posts so I made the wrong assumption that it was a regulator. Okay so it's a rectifier and yes, as mentioned unlike a regulator it would not need battery voltage to excite it.

My next question would be was the stator voltage testing done while plugged into the rectifier or unplugged. If it was done unplugged, I'd plug it back in and check it again and see if that changes anything. A little bit of a load on the stator may drop that AC voltage quite a bit if it's compromised.
 

ILENGINE

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Ah yes, I see where I read right past that in more than one spot even. I saw regulator in most of the posts so I made the wrong assumption that it was a regulator. Okay so it's a rectifier and yes, as mentioned unlike a regulator it would not need battery voltage to excite it.

My next question would be was the stator voltage testing done while plugged into the rectifier or unplugged. If it was done unplugged, I'd plug it back in and check it again and see if that changes anything. A little bit of a load on the stator may drop that AC voltage quite a bit if it's compromised.
It is not all lost on you. Part of the issue also is the Briggs IPL shows the tri-circuit stator which would be correct for this application, but has a mistake in the IPL concerning the regulator. They are showing the 10-16 amp regulator/rectifier which is wrong for this engine, because that regulator would require a battery.
 

Arkus55

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My Kohler had a bad engine electrical connector that caused the same symptoms. The output wire of the Regulator going back to key switch the terminal connector was degrading. New connector and all good. may not be your issue but just another idea to check.

22R
Thanks for the suggestion. I have checked the voltage directly from the regulator with the same results. I also went through and rewired everything. The previous owner had bypassed all kill switches. So I have a new PTO switch, a push button (The old one was a toggle switch), and all new wiring.
 
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Arkus55

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It is not all lost on you. Part of the issue also is the Briggs IPL shows the tri-circuit stator which would be correct for this application, but has a mistake in the IPL concerning the regulator. They are showing the 10-16 amp regulator/rectifier which is wrong for this engine, because that regulator would require a battery.
Can you suggest the correct part number for this application then? Obviously going off the IPL is incorrect.
 

Arkus55

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Ah yes, I see where I read right past that in more than one spot even. I saw regulator in most of the posts so I made the wrong assumption that it was a regulator. Okay so it's a rectifier and yes, as mentioned unlike a regulator it would not need battery voltage to excite it.

My next question would be was the stator voltage testing done while plugged into the rectifier or unplugged. If it was done unplugged, I'd plug it back in and check it again and see if that changes anything. A little bit of a load on the stator may drop that AC voltage quite a bit if it's compromised.
I will definitely try that. I tested the stator with the rectifier disconnected. I assume you mean to back probe with the rectifier connected?
 

VegetiveSteam

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I will definitely try that. I tested the stator with the rectifier disconnected. I assume you mean to back probe with the rectifier connected?
Yes. Sometimes just a little load can show that it's not working correctly.
 

StarTech

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This should answer the question.

1687693037302.png
Stator PN 696457 superseded to 592829.
1687693622534.png
 
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ILENGINE

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Can you suggest the correct part number for this application then? Obviously going off the IPL is incorrect.
The close I can match it is the 794360 but just searching the 357667 comes up with them using 2 different regulators on the tri-circuit stator and a third which doesn't fit the tri-circuit system. The 794360 uses a single bolt mount. And the 798315 which is a two bolt mount
 
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