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Pro Series - keeps throwing belts

#1

D

donsiebert

I'm new on this forum - here is my problem.

My Craftsman Pro Series (model 247204420) is only 10 months old - it only has 21 hours on it. It recently threw the belt and broke it evenly at one point. I understand two things from reading forums on the internet: (1) This is a common problem which many people consider to be a poor design. (2) The deck is absolutely identical to the deck which Cub Cadet uses, even the mustard yellow color. (3) Cub Cadet had a recall earlier this year to solve and fix the problem.

(A) Why has Craftsman not had a recall? My service tech has no background information at all.

(B) There is no belt keeper around the drive axle under the electric clutch. Every picture and video I see on the internet has some type of belt guard/belt keeper at this location. Isn't this a logical place to have a belt keeper? I cut my grass high (3 1/2 inches) which means the belt is horizontal to the chassis. People who cut shorter must have even more belt losses because the angle of the belt from motor to mowing deck gets larger the higher you cut. Why is there no belt keeper here? Does Sears have belt keeper they can add onto my machine?

(C) My technician said I must have hit something while mowing. My lawn is checked before I mow every time. I examined the blades right after the incident and there are no nicks or any kind of damage to either of the two blades or the underside of the deck.

My technician is due in a day or two to put on a new belt. I hope and pray this does not happen again after only 21 hours on the meter. Am I worrying too much? After spending almost $3000 on the machine, mulch kit, and an extended warranty for 4 extra years I am really worried that I might have a lemon.

Thanks for reading and I look forward to seeing your comments.


#2

B

bertsmobile1

:welcome:

1)Don't know if MTD makes that mower for Craftsman but if it will most likely be the same deck

2) you only need keepers on pulleys where the belt goes slack.
electric clutches have constant tension so no belt keepers needed.
Mowers with a manual PTO ( some sort of lever ) slacken the belt to dissengage the blades so they need keepers, yours does not

3) Belts break clean because a very high chock load gets applied to them , like hitting a rock.
Some decks are very sensative to engine speed for blade engagement so you need to turn on the blades exactly as the manual says.
Mulching tosses up a lot of debris.
A big seed pod getting caught in the pulley can snap the belt.


#3

BlazNT

BlazNT

sears vendor codes:

001 Stevens
002 Lemont Industries
071 Agri-Fab Corp
093 Ametek
002 Lemont Industries
101 Atlas Press Co.
102 Walker Turner
C102 Gilson
103 Sarlo Power Mower Inc.
103 Roper
106 Whirlpool
108 Covel Mfg. Co.
109 AA Engineering
110 Whirlpool
111 Watson Mfg Co.
112 Parks Tool Co. (Woodworking equipment)
113 Emerson Electric Co.
114 Pioneer Gen-E-Motor
115 Rixon
116 Matsushita
119 Frigidaire
121 Dille & McGuire
122 Blair Mfg.
123 Yard-Man
128 E.T. Rugg
129 Mono Mfg. Co
131 Rally/Roper Lawn (American Yard Prod.)
133 American Yard Products
135 Skil/Bosch
136 Toro Mfg. Co http://www.toro.com/
137 Rexon
139 Chamberlain
143 Tecumseh (Lauson Power Prod. Co.)
144 Trane
145 Country Manufacturing 147 Village Blacksmith (Div. of McGraw Edison)
149 Amt
150 White Consolidated
C151 Berco
153 State Industries
155 Preway
160 Wisconsin Magneto
161 Nakajima
171 Vermont American
174 Caloric
175 Bissell
175 Ryobi
176 Murata
180 Lambert Corp.
187 White Consolidated
190 Pioneer
C 191 Homelite
S193 Makita Trimmer & Hedgers
198 Whirlpool
202 Gannon Mfg. Co.
204 Iona
214 Bissell
216 Phonemate
217 Eska Outboards http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/
219 MTD http://www.mtdproducts.com/
222 Panasonic Video/Audio
225 Outboard by Chrysler/Force
233 Broan
234 Beard-Poulan (old Trimmers)
235 Ingersoll Rand
S236 Tanaka Tiller
C241 Homelite
241 Fimco
247 MTD-Modern Tool and Die (not MID)
250 J.I. Case
253 Gibson (now Frigidare)
256 Emerson Electric
257 Allegretti & Co. & Paramount (owned by Weed Eater)
264 Emerson Electric
268 Brother International
271 Kioritz Corp. - Echo
274 RCA
278 GE
278 Roper
281 Electro-Aire
283 Thomas Industries
289 Sharp
291 American Lawn Mower
292 Lennox
294 Tunturi
302 IBM
304 Funai
306 Belsaw
312 GTE
315 Ryan
315 Ryobi (not made in USA)
316 Ryobi (made in USA)
317 Makita
319 Hand Tools International
329 Inventa
330 Apple
328 McLane
329 Ametek
334 Commodore
335 Amana
336 Electrolux
340 Necchi
342 York
C459 MTD
351 Colovos Co.
253 White Consolidated
355 Roper Outdoor
358 Beaird - Poulan, Inc. (now part of Poulan Weed Eater) www.poulan.com
359 Bolens Products Div. http://www.troybilt.com/
362 General Electric
363 General Electric
365 US Lawn
366 Koss Eletronics
367 AT&T
372 Zeus Generator Co.
374 Diversified Products
378 Omark (Oregon)
380 Moto-Mower, Inc./Subsidiary of Dura Corp.
385 Jamac
387 White Rodgers
390 King-O-Lawn
401 Bissell
410 John Bean Food Mach. & Chem.
415 Char Broil
417 Stover Engine Works
426 Parker Sweeper
445 Melmer
452 AT&T
457 Code-A-Phone
C459 MTD www.mtdproducts.com/
459 Technics
464 GE
471 Bionaire
472 Dremel
473 Quincy Compressor
474 Sony
476 Coleman
480 Bose
484 Airtemp
486 Agri-Fab http://www.agri-fab.com/
490 Indiana Steel
498 Didier Mfg. Co.
500 Briggs & Stratton Corp. http://www.briggsandstratton.com/
502 Murray Ohio http://www.murrayinc.com
509 Payne
517 Homelite/Jacobsen
521 E Z Rake Co.
523 MGM Technology
534 Clausing Lathe (Former Atlas Press Co.)
536 Western Tool & Stamping (Before AMF Lawn & Garden Div.)
538 AMF and or Murray
549 Midwest Ind
552 Cobra
562 Toshiba
564 Sanyo
565 Sanyo
566 Packard Bell
568 Panasonic
572 Dremel
575 Sharp
576 D & M (now Frigidaire)
580 Generac Corporation http://www.generac.com/
582 Clinton Engine Co.
583 Remington/Desa
586 Panasonic Office Equip.
587 White Consolidated
596 Amana
604 Digital Equipment Co.
610 Ohio Steel Fabrication http://www.ohiosteel.com/
613 Consolidated Technologies
619 Arps Corp.
620 Enviro-Research
621 Bryant
622 Kelvinator
625 Ecodyne
626 Magnavox (Philips)
628 White Consolidated
629 Jenn-Air
636 Echo
639 King-O-Lawn
640 Cerwin Vega
647 Roper
651 O.M.C. Dist. (also Standard Eng.)
654 Mott
663 Air Cap Industries
665 Whirlpool
666 Kitchenaid
668 Echowater
678 Vac Appliances, LTD
680 Generac
683 Philco (Italy)
704 Royal
705 Canon
716 H.H.Scott/Emerson
719 Tappan
721 LG Electronics
723 Yamaha
733 Fairbanks Morse http://www.fairbanksmorse.com/
739 Onan http://www.onan.com/
745 0 & R Engines
747 Litton
757 Brinly-Hardy Co., Inc. http://www.brinly.com/
758 Emerson Electric
761 Whirlpool
767 Marvel
768 Technics (Matsushita)
769 Mercury Clutch Division
773 Marantz
775 Johnson
778 Comet Industries
785 General Power (Magna America Corp.)
789 DefiAnce
790 Frigid Ire
791 Tappan
793 Ford
798 Speed King
809 AMF
815 Daewoo
831 Welso Inc/U.T.S.
832 Xerox
835 Roper
840 Friedrich
842 Haban Mfg.
846 Epson
850 Whirlpool (Chambers?)
854 White Farm Equipment Corp. (formerly Oliver) http://www.mtdproducts.com/
855 ILG
860 Eureka Company
864 Zenith
867 Climette
871 Smith Corona
879 Rheem/Rudd
900 DeWalt
900 Black and Decker http://www.blackanddecker.com/
911 General Electric
911 Roper
917 Roper Corp. (American Yard Prod. which is now part of Poulan Weed Eater) www.poulan.com
919 DeVilbiss
922 Original Tractor Cab Co. http://www.simpletractors.com
923 Hewlett Packard
934 Century Mfg Co.
C935 Black & Decker (Cordless Elect.)
937 Sunbeam (now Air Cap Ind.)
944 Canadian AYP Tractors, Mowers and Tillers (now part of Poulan Weed Eater) www.poulan.com
948 McCulloch
950 Laser (V-TECH)
C950 Noma/Murray
C955 Sunbeam
960 Caloric
973 Ryobi
987 Troy Bilt/Garden Way
988 Kubota
989 McCulloch
990 Ford
991 Lawnboy
2018 Furnas Electric (Reversing Switch)
7075 Prestolite Battery
7287 Emerson Electric
7296 Emerson


#4

D

donsiebert

Thanks for the list. I will certainly use it!


#5

D

donsiebert

:welcome:

1)Don't know if MTD makes that mower for Craftsman but if it will most likely be the same deck

2) you only need keepers on pulleys where the belt goes slack.
electric clutches have constant tension so no belt keepers needed.
Mowers with a manual PTO ( some sort of lever ) slacken the belt to dissengage the blades so they need keepers, yours does not

3) Belts break clean because a very high chock load gets applied to them , like hitting a rock.
Some decks are very sensative to engine speed for blade engagement so you need to turn on the blades exactly as the manual says.
Mulching tosses up a lot of debris.
A big seed pod getting caught in the pulley can snap the belt.

THANKS FOR THE REPLY

#2 is great info to have. I always start and stop the PTO at full throttle, as per user manual.
#3 I still don't think I hit anything, But I did notice a small branch off of a shrub on the top of the mowing deck. I always clean the top of the deck with a leaf blower when I'm done mowing my 1/2 acre lot. Guess I'll start to do when I am half done, too. I've also read somewhere that a clump of grass can do the same thing. My rule will be to keep it clean, which might be difficult since I am always in mulching mode and the little pieces of grass are flying everywhere underneath my seat.


#6

Catherine

Catherine

:welcome:

I'm going to move this thread over to our Craftsman section for you. :smile:


#7

B

bertsmobile1

OK,

From the codes it looks like tours is made by MTD in which case it will be the same deck as per your first suspicions and the Cub fix , which from memory was nothing more than a wider idler pulley should also be applicable.
This prevented the belt over running the flange on the pulley and coming off.


#8

D

donsiebert

THANKS FOR THE REPLY

#2 is great info to have. I always start and stop the PTO at full throttle, as per user manual.
#3 I still don't think I hit anything, But I did notice a small branch off of a shrub on the top of the mowing deck. I always clean the top of the deck with a leaf blower when I'm done mowing my 1/2 acre lot. Guess I'll start to do when I am half done, too. I've also read somewhere that a clump of grass can do the same thing. My rule will be to keep it clean, which might be difficult since I am always in mulching mode and the little pieces of grass are flying everywhere underneath my seat.

WELL, THE SEARS TECH GUY WAS HERE YESTERDAY (AFTER A 2 WEEK WAIT). HE CHECKED EVERYTHING AND SAID EVERYTHING WAS OK, PUT ON THE NEW BELT, AND TOLD ME TO BREAK A RULE ABOUT STARTING THE PTO. INSTEAD OF BEING AT FULL TROTTLE TO START AND TURN OFF THE PTO, HE SAID TO REDUCE THE ENGINE SPEED FOR BOTH TO ABOUT 1/2 OR 2/3 THROTTLE. HE SAID THAT STARTING AT FULL THROTTLE IS PROBABLY A "SHOCK" TO THE MOWER, ESPECIALLY THE BELT. HE SAID THE MOWER CANNOT BE AT IDLE OR LESS THAN 1/2 THROTTLE FOR THE SYSTEM TO WORK. I WILL DO WHAT HE SAYS BECAUSE I AM STILL UNDER THE ORIGINAL WARRANTY AND HAVE ALREADY BOUGHT AN EXTENDED WARRAN TY FOR 3 MORE YEARS. I HOPE HE IS RIGHT. HE ALSO SAID THE ORIGINAL BELT MIGHT HAVE BEEN FAULTY. TIME WILL TELL.


#9

C

CraftsmanFlaws

WELL, THE SEARS TECH GUY WAS HERE YESTERDAY (AFTER A 2 WEEK WAIT). HE CHECKED EVERYTHING AND SAID EVERYTHING WAS OK, PUT ON THE NEW BELT, AND TOLD ME TO BREAK A RULE ABOUT STARTING THE PTO. INSTEAD OF BEING AT FULL TROTTLE TO START AND TURN OFF THE PTO, HE SAID TO REDUCE THE ENGINE SPEED FOR BOTH TO ABOUT 1/2 OR 2/3 THROTTLE. HE SAID THAT STARTING AT FULL THROTTLE IS PROBABLY A "SHOCK" TO THE MOWER, ESPECIALLY THE BELT. HE SAID THE MOWER CANNOT BE AT IDLE OR LESS THAN 1/2 THROTTLE FOR THE SYSTEM TO WORK. I WILL DO WHAT HE SAYS BECAUSE I AM STILL UNDER THE ORIGINAL WARRANTY AND HAVE ALREADY BOUGHT AN EXTENDED WARRAN TY FOR 3 MORE YEARS. I HOPE HE IS RIGHT. HE ALSO SAID THE ORIGINAL BELT MIGHT HAVE BEEN FAULTY. TIME WILL TELL.

The tech is full of it. You are supposed to start ANY of their tractors at full trottle, and never at 1/2 or 2/3. A shock to the belt? That's the first I've heard of that. Someone correct me if they have proof I am wrong. The techs I have had out said to start it on CHOKE, and then immediately turn it to full throttle.

Did you know that Sears is so cheap (as is the probable mfr. of your tractor - Husqvarna), that don't design the decks to allow for any ADJUSTMENT for belts that have notorious problems with stretching out. How simple a fix it would be to have a simple adjustment mechanism where you could compensate for a belt stretching out. But, no, they don't want to spend the dollar it would cost, plus this lines Sears' pockets with frequent belt purchases and technician install fees, if the customer is not capable of changing the belt himself. I've left messages with the appropriate people at Husqvarna about why they design their tractors with flaws such as this one, the horrid mulchers, and the hood designs that shake all over the place, rubbing the paint off the bottom sides of the hood, where it sits in the plastic grills on my 20381, and cuts grooves in the plastic housing behind the steering wheel, where the deck also sits and moves to cause this problem. By the way, Husqvarna never returned any of my calls. That speaks volumes.


#10

C

CraftsmanFlaws

:welcome:

1)Don't know if MTD makes that mower for Craftsman but if it will most likely be the same deck

2) you only need keepers on pulleys where the belt goes slack.
electric clutches have constant tension so no belt keepers needed.
Mowers with a manual PTO ( some sort of lever ) slacken the belt to dissengage the blades so they need keepers, yours does not

3) Belts break clean because a very high chock load gets applied to them , like hitting a rock.
Some decks are very sensative to engine speed for blade engagement so you need to turn on the blades exactly as the manual says.
Mulching tosses up a lot of debris.
A big seed pod getting caught in the pulley can snap the belt.

So, are you saying you should reduce the throttle speed before engaging the blades, as that will be gentler and not a shock on the belt? I don't think Sears recommends engaging the blades at lower than full throttle, but maybe they don't know what they are talking about, which would be typical.


#11

Carscw

Carscw

So, are you saying you should reduce the throttle speed before engaging the blades, as that will be gentler and not a shock on the belt? I don't think Sears recommends engaging the blades at lower than full throttle, but maybe they don't know what they are talking about, which would be typical.


I have always engaged the blades at full throttle. On every mower I have ever owned.


#12

BlazNT

BlazNT

The tech is full of it. You are supposed to start ANY of their tractors at full trottle, and never at 1/2 or 2/3. A shock to the belt? That's the first I've heard of that. Someone correct me if they have proof I am wrong. The techs I have had out said to start it on CHOKE, and then immediately turn it to full throttle.

Did you know that Sears is so cheap (as is the probable mfr. of your tractor - Husqvarna), that don't design the decks to allow for any ADJUSTMENT for belts that have notorious problems with stretching out. How simple a fix it would be to have a simple adjustment mechanism where you could compensate for a belt stretching out. But, no, they don't want to spend the dollar it would cost, plus this lines Sears' pockets with frequent belt purchases and technician install fees, if the customer is not capable of changing the belt himself. I've left messages with the appropriate people at Husqvarna about why they design their tractors with flaws such as this one, the horrid mulchers, and the hood designs that shake all over the place, rubbing the paint off the bottom sides of the hood, where it sits in the plastic grills on my 20381, and cuts grooves in the plastic housing behind the steering wheel, where the deck also sits and moves to cause this problem. By the way, Husqvarna never returned any of my calls. That speaks volumes.[/QUOTE]

Ok so let go over this one point at a time.

First point. Sears makes absolutely nothing. All they do is sell it.

Second point. Almost all engine manufactures tell you to start engines at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle. My Kohler says 3/4 throttle. PTO is suposed to be started at 3/4 throttle as well.

Third point. Belts do not stretch they wear on the angle sides of the belt till they are so thin they bottom out on the pulley

Forth point. If you sent me an email with stuff like this in an email I would not respond either. I would not even know where to start. You are so angry about stuff that you have not educated yourself on I could not imagine that anyone would want to correct you in fear they would get a worse name for them selves because you did not understand them.

Fifth point. It makes them smart to not take you on as I don't think you would care if they explained it the way I have.

I also expect you to get really mad at me for posting this. But I truly don't give a flying _____ what you think.

Very last thing. I will not offer any type of proof in my statements because a simple google search will give you all the proof you need and probably don't want.


#13

B

bertsmobile1

The tech is full of it. You are supposed to start ANY of their tractors at full trottle, and never at 1/2 or 2/3. A shock to the belt? That's the first I've heard of that. Someone correct me if they have proof I am wrong. The techs I have had out said to start it on CHOKE, and then immediately turn it to full throttle.

Did you know that Sears is so cheap (as is the probable mfr. of your tractor - Husqvarna), that don't design the decks to allow for any ADJUSTMENT for belts that have notorious problems with stretching out. How simple a fix it would be to have a simple adjustment mechanism where you could compensate for a belt stretching out. But, no, they don't want to spend the dollar it would cost, plus this lines Sears' pockets with frequent belt purchases and technician install fees, if the customer is not capable of changing the belt himself. I've left messages with the appropriate people at Husqvarna about why they design their tractors with flaws such as this one, the horrid mulchers, and the hood designs that shake all over the place, rubbing the paint off the bottom sides of the hood, where it sits in the plastic grills on my 20381, and cuts grooves in the plastic housing behind the steering wheel, where the deck also sits and moves to cause this problem. By the way, Husqvarna never returned any of my calls. That speaks volumes.

Belts do not stretch, they shrink.
They get loose because they wear thin an sit deeper in the pulley.
When they sit so deep that they become too slack they have past their service life.
Adjusting the belt tighter will have it running on smaller effective pulley diameters so things like blade speeds with be wrong for the design of the deck.
However most owners are TOO CHEAP to replace a belt till it is either broken or so thin the blade stop turning in long grass.
If you are only willing to pay for trash you will end up with trash.

AYP make what people want to buy.
They make garbage for those who will only pay for garbage
They make good mowers for the few who will pay a fair & reasonable price for a good quality mower.

Sears went broke selling reasonable quality goods on a slim margin with excellent after sales service to a fickle greedy public who abandoned them in droves to buy trash from Walmart because Walmat trash was cheaper.
For some idiot unexplainable reason Joe Public seems to think every thing they want HAS to get cheaper every year yet they HAVE to be paid more every year for making the same amount of things they made last year that some one else thinks has be sold for less.
The two do not add up.
So YOU get sacked and the product gets imported from China so HE can buy it cheaper.
And you can vent your spleen as much as you like but nothing will change unless large volumes of people do the right thing by their families, co-workers and country and start purchasing on quality not cheapest price because the ultimate end is a country in a condition that will make the great deperession look like a pic nic in the park.

And before all you gun toting flag waving hand on your heart patriots start telling me what a great country the USA is and abusing me for being an outsider, it applies doubly to idiot Australians because we actually elect governments that have anti manufacturing policys and encourage the population to "get a good job and leverage yourself into real estate ".


#14

C

CraftsmanFlaws

The tech is full of it. You are supposed to start ANY of their tractors at full trottle, and never at 1/2 or 2/3. A shock to the belt? That's the first I've heard of that. Someone correct me if they have proof I am wrong. The techs I have had out said to start it on CHOKE, and then immediately turn it to full throttle.

Did you know that Sears is so cheap (as is the probable mfr. of your tractor - Husqvarna), that don't design the decks to allow for any ADJUSTMENT for belts that have notorious problems with stretching out. How simple a fix it would be to have a simple adjustment mechanism where you could compensate for a belt stretching out. But, no, they don't want to spend the dollar it would cost, plus this lines Sears' pockets with frequent belt purchases and technician install fees, if the customer is not capable of changing the belt himself. I've left messages with the appropriate people at Husqvarna about why they design their tractors with flaws such as this one, the horrid mulchers, and the hood designs that shake all over the place, rubbing the paint off the bottom sides of the hood, where it sits in the plastic grills on my 20381, and cuts grooves in the plastic housing behind the steering wheel, where the deck also sits and moves to cause this problem. By the way, Husqvarna never returned any of my calls. That speaks volumes.[/QUOTE]

Ok so let go over this one point at a time.

First point. Sears makes absolutely nothing. All they do is sell it.

Second point. Almost all engine manufactures tell you to start engines at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle. My Kohler says 3/4 throttle. PTO is suposed to be started at 3/4 throttle as well.

Third point. Belts do not stretch they wear on the angle sides of the belt till they are so thin they bottom out on the pulley

Forth point. If you sent me an email with stuff like this in an email I would not respond either. I would not even know where to start. You are so angry about stuff that you have not educated yourself on I could not imagine that anyone would want to correct you in fear they would get a worse name for them selves because you did not understand them.

Fifth point. It makes them smart to not take you on as I don't think you would care if they explained it the way I have.

I also expect you to get really mad at me for posting this. But I truly don't give a flying _____ what you think.

Very last thing. I will not offer any type of proof in my statements because a simple google search will give you all the proof you need and probably don't want.


_____________________________________________________________________________


Did you get a PhD in how to be nasty, degrading, arrogant & abusive? In quoting you, "But I truly don't give a flying ____ what you think," I return it as a statement right back to YOU.

(1) As a new member, to receive a post as nasty, critical and confrontative as yours, is beyond what I would expect from an adult with any sense of decorum or decent behavior - You have NONE.
I don't need your insulting, disgusting and condescending replies - so, DON'T RESPOND anymore.

However to show the nonsense of what you posted, I give the following answers
:

"Almost all engine manufactures tell you to start engines at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle. My Kohler says 3/4 throttle."

I did a search on Kohler engines, and extensively looked at Kohler's site. NO WHERE do they address starting their engines at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. You must enjoy spouting off fabrications you made up. I'll be calling Kohler next business day.

And, in my Model 20381 Craftsman tractor's manual, it instructs you to start it in CHOKE position, which is full speed, the same as full throttle. That is for a B&S 19hp engine.

WRONG. I did a search on "should small engines be started at less than full throttle," and nothing comes up about starting throttle speed. However, most results definitely recommend running them at full throttle for LONG ENGINE HEALTH.

www.practicalmachinist.com
- Quotes:

Jaledu - Years ago when I worked as a mechanic in a small engine shop we would always instruct the customers to run their equipment at full throttle when mowing. Some engines would simply overheat when put under load at lower RPMs. They need that flywheel spinning faster to cool down the engine block.

kenh - These engines are most efficient at full throttle.
Also cooling is a factor.

John in MA - Don't forget splash lubrication--lower speed=less splash. The blades also give the best cut at speed. Better lift, etc. They'd run blades even faster than currently done if it wasn't for safety regulations. When small engines are running at top speed without a load they're actually not using much fuel or generating much heat at all. The thrtottle plate is almost closed. It's only when you load them that they start opening up. Lower speeds frequently aren't even governed, so you can't get much done.

I'm not bothering quoting more; this is more than sufficient.

Doing a Google search on, "Do tractor drive belts stretch over time?" Shows almost every response if that they DO indeed stretch. So much for your claim, "Belts do not stretch they wear on the angle sides of the belt till they are so thin they bottom out on the pulley." NONSENSE. I & thousands of other Craftsman owners have had their drive belts STRETCH, not thin. I can attest the belts on my Craftsman tractor did not wear or thin, as you claim; they were perfectly square and not worn on the sides - simply stretched enough to cause them to fall off on the front pulley.

In response to Husqvarna not answering me, take your fictitious & insulting answer and stuff it:

"If you sent me an email with stuff like this in an email I would not respond either. I would not even know where to start. You are so angry about stuff that you have not educated yourself on I could not imagine that anyone would want to correct you in fear they would get a worse name for them selves because you did not understand them...... It makes them smart to not take you on as I don't think you would care if they explained it the way I have."

Explained it the way you did? What, your erroneous and shoddy 'explanations'. Give me a break.

"I will not offer any type of proof in my statements because a simple google search will give you all the proof you need and probably don't want."

I just PROVED what a Google search will find, which is to DISPROVE your statements, Self-proclaimed expert who never was.

NO MORE COMMUNICATIONS FROM YOU. Go insult and degrade someone else. I'm sure if I searched your posts on this site, I'd find I'm not your first victim.


#15

RDA.Lawns

RDA.Lawns

Wow smh a read a lot of stored up anger lmao.(I'd never buy craftsman.)


#16

B

bertsmobile1

Well I replace around 200 belts a year and none of them would ever be more that 1/4" longer than original.
In place of reading what other people who have no idea what they are talking abut I suggest you talk to the people who make the belts than do not stretch.

The problem with the web is it allows 3,000,000 people who are illinformed about what they are looking at to come up with a totally wrong set of assumptions then by virtue of numbers the falicy become fact.
As I seem to remember a pair of prop makers became multi millionairs by showing the general public all the "truths" that hundreds of thousands of clots on the web had repeated were in fact 100% wrong.
Suggest you get the full set of Mythbusters DVD's then watch and learn.

Mower belts are Kevlar, Kevlar has a higher tensile strength than steel, it does not stretch.
The rubber compound used on mower belts shrinks when it gets to operating temperature
And belts wear thin on the contact faces.
I have cut hundreds of them in 1/2 to show to customers just how much they have worn when comparred to new belt of the same size.
The back of the belt will still be almost the original width but the inside will be a lot thinner.

I have wrapped the customers old belt around a spare pulley then a new one to show them just how much deeper a worn belt sits and in a few cases even weighed a new belt against an old belt to show then just how much their belt has worn.

Furthermore you have displayed your ignorance about what you are talking about by citing a source that has nothing to do with the type of belts you are complaining about.
Machine belts are plain unwrapped belts made from a different rubber compound and usually with either cotton or pollyester cords.
Their compound is very similar to what your tyres are made from and gets quite sticky when hot.
Mower belts do not get sticky because most of them have to be able to slip on the pulleys when you clutch/brake or turn off the blades on a moewer with a manual PTO.
The exception to this are the mowers with cone or cork clutches where standard belts can be used.


#17

Carscw

Carscw

Belts do not stretch. I think we all know this to be a fact.


#18

C

CraftsmanFlaws

Belts do not stretch, they shrink.
They get loose because they wear thin an sit deeper in the pulley.
When they sit so deep that they become too slack they have past their service life.
Adjusting the belt tighter will have it running on smaller effective pulley diameters so things like blade speeds with be wrong for the design of the deck.
However most owners are TOO CHEAP to replace a belt till it is either broken or so thin the blade stop turning in long grass.
If you are only willing to pay for trash you will end up with trash.

AYP make what people want to buy.
They make garbage for those who will only pay for garbage
They make good mowers for the few who will pay a fair & reasonable price for a good quality mower.

Sears went broke selling reasonable quality goods on a slim margin with excellent after sales service to a fickle greedy public who abandoned them in droves to buy trash from Walmart because Walmat trash was cheaper.
For some idiot unexplainable reason Joe Public seems to think every thing they want HAS to get cheaper every year yet they HAVE to be paid more every year for making the same amount of things they made last year that some one else thinks has be sold for less.
The two do not add up.
So YOU get sacked and the product gets imported from China so HE can buy it cheaper.
And you can vent your spleen as much as you like but nothing will change unless large volumes of people do the right thing by their families, co-workers and country and start purchasing on quality not cheapest price because the ultimate end is a country in a condition that will make the great deperession look like a pic nic in the park.

And before all you gun toting flag waving hand on your heart patriots start telling me what a great country the USA is and abusing me for being an outsider, it applies doubly to idiot Australians because we actually elect governments that have anti manufacturing policys and encourage the population to "get a good job and leverage yourself into real estate ".

Yes, belts do stretch. A Google search will bring up tons of tractor and manufacturer forum sites that state this. My belt was almost NEW. Put on last mid-November, maybe several leaf mulching "cuts" after that, then in the garage for the winter. By mid-July, cutting one acre only every 2 weeks, and the belt was said to be stretched by Sears' tech and replaced. I examined the belt, and the only wear on it was from it falling off the pulley & the guides that hold it, so it ran over the guides when I attempted to engage the blades. All this was pretty clear.

I don't know why you are ranting on and on about Wal-Mart, and defending Sears. I wouldn't buy a tractor at Wal-Mart for sure. But Sears shouldn't be defended. They screw their customers, and have their whole system rigged to achieve it. Sears are the ones at fault, as they have morphed more and more into a company that is greedy, and has carefully crafted a system set up to deny the customer coverage by carefully worded warranties and Extended warranties, where they deny coverage on items and situations that should be covered. For example, if a tech does what one did to me, i.e., scrap the whole bottom of the deck to bare, raw metal, my Protection Agreement denied coverage, based on this being "cosmetic defects". That is a pile of sh**. That is DAMAGE done by Sears. Would you buy an auto from a dealer, bring it in for mechanical service, and then the dealer scrapes the side, ruining the paint, and tell you that it's only cosmetic and not covered? Of course not.

You can read thousands of their customers' horror stories about what Sears did to them, right on Sears Community Forums, yet alone the tens of thousands of complaints on the internet. Look them up on the BBB, and you'll be horrified at how many complaints are submitted about Sears.

Sears markets cheap, inferior designed tractors, made to only function at a very basic level, as opposed to the tractors (& other products as well) they used to make 10 years ago. Many who own old Craftsman mowers talk about how they have lasted for 20-30 years and are still running, and that they wouldn't ever buy a new Sears mower, as they consider them junk. Their mowers are made by Husqvarna and by MTD, both companies do not have a good track record. Husqvarna owners have tons of complaints about how terrible their mowers are and the many problems they have with them.


#19

RDA.Lawns

RDA.Lawns

Your right sears markets cheaper line of mowers. No one twisted your arm to buy one. So why the rant on a public forum. A belt is a wearable item , buy a good quality belt and move on.


#20

B

bertsmobile1

Yes, belts do stretch. A Google search will bring up tons of tractor and manufacturer forum sites that state this. My belt was almost NEW. Put on last mid-November, maybe several leaf mulching "cuts" after that, then in the garage for the winter. By mid-July, cutting one acre only every 2 weeks, and the belt was said to be stretched by Sears' tech and replaced. I examined the belt, and the only wear on it was from it falling off the pulley & the guides that hold it, so it ran over the guides when I attempted to engage the blades. All this was pretty clear.

I don't know why you are ranting on and on about Wal-Mart, and defending Sears. I wouldn't buy a tractor at Wal-Mart for sure. But Sears shouldn't be defended. They screw their customers, and have their whole system rigged to achieve it. Sears are the ones at fault, as they have morphed more and more into a company that is greedy, and has carefully crafted a system set up to deny the customer coverage by carefully worded warranties and Extended warranties, where they deny coverage on items and situations that should be covered. For example, if a tech does what one did to me, i.e., scrap the whole bottom of the deck to bare, raw metal, my Protection Agreement denied coverage, based on this being "cosmetic defects". That is a pile of sh**. That is DAMAGE done by Sears. Would you buy an auto from a dealer, bring it in for mechanical service, and then the dealer scrapes the side, ruining the paint, and tell you that it's only cosmetic and not covered? Of course not.

You can read thousands of their customers' horror stories about what Sears did to them, right on Sears Community Forums, yet alone the tens of thousands of complaints on the internet. Look them up on the BBB, and you'll be horrified at how many complaints are submitted about Sears.

Sears markets cheap, inferior designed tractors, made to only function at a very basic level, as opposed to the tractors (& other products as well) they used to make 10 years ago. Many who own old Craftsman mowers talk about how they have lasted for 20-30 years and are still running, and that they wouldn't ever buy a new Sears mower, as they consider them junk. Their mowers are made by Husqvarna and by MTD, both companies do not have a good track record. Husqvarna owners have tons of complaints about how terrible their mowers are and the many problems they have with them.

In place of ranting and raving perhaps you might like to actually read what I said.
No arguement that some of the products Sears sells now days are rubbish.
They sell rubbish because people like you will only pay for rubbish.
Thy also sell substantially better quality mowers for people who are willing to pay a reasonable amount of money for a reasonable quality mower.
Now days the public has such a peverse sence of value that any retailer has either to supply top shelf goods and slowly go broke or garbage and stay in business.
You and people like you are the problem not Sears they are doing what they have to in order to stay in business.
If you have done your due dilligence and properly researched your mower purchase then you are a blithering idiot for buying a mower that thousands have posted is not worth the money.

No one here is interested in clots ranting and raving because they made a bad choice and bought a bad mower.
We are here to help people get the best from what they have, to help them repair and maintain their equipment and where there is a fix overcome a design problem as they become apparent.
No one gives a tinkers curse about your hurt feelings or petty grievences
There are plenty of web sites for the disgruntled to vent their spleens to others who get their rocks off by venting theirs and reading other doing the same.

We are here to provide physical help
If you don't want help then go and annoy some one else.

Oh and you may have noticed 3 people who make a living repairing mowers have told you
KEVLAR LAWN MOWER BELTS DO NOT STRETCH.
There I have shouted at you really loud so it must be true.
Go to Gates or Dunlop or any other manufacturer of Lawn & garden belts and read facts
That is of course provided you can handle the truth which I doubt you can.


#21

C

CraftsmanFlaws

Well I replace around 200 belts a year and none of them would ever be more that 1/4" longer than original.
In place of reading what other people who have no idea what they are talking abut I suggest you talk to the people who make the belts than do not stretch.

The problem with the web is it allows 3,000,000 people who are illinformed about what they are looking at to come up with a totally wrong set of assumptions then by virtue of numbers the falicy become fact.
As I seem to remember a pair of prop makers became multi millionairs by showing the general public all the "truths" that hundreds of thousands of clots on the web had repeated were in fact 100% wrong.
Suggest you get the full set of Mythbusters DVD's then watch and learn.

Mower belts are Kevlar, Kevlar has a higher tensile strength than steel, it does not stretch.
The rubber compound used on mower belts shrinks when it gets to operating temperature
And belts wear thin on the contact faces.
I have cut hundreds of them in 1/2 to show to customers just how much they have worn when comparred to new belt of the same size.
The back of the belt will still be almost the original width but the inside will be a lot thinner.

I have wrapped the customers old belt around a spare pulley then a new one to show them just how much deeper a worn belt sits and in a few cases even weighed a new belt against an old belt to show then just how much their belt has worn.

Furthermore you have displayed your ignorance about what you are talking about by citing a source that has nothing to do with the type of belts you are complaining about.
Machine belts are plain unwrapped belts made from a different rubber compound and usually with either cotton or pollyester cords.
Their compound is very similar to what your tyres are made from and gets quite sticky when hot.
Mower belts do not get sticky because most of them have to be able to slip on the pulleys when you clutch/brake or turn off the blades on a moewer with a manual PTO.
The exception to this are the mowers with cone or cork clutches where standard belts can be used.

Bertsmobile,

I've found mower sites and small engine sites that claim belt do stretch Yes, some say the Kevlar ones do not, but I don't understand how you can say that Kevlar is what OEM tractor belts are made of, and state they are stronger than steel, and then in the next sentence say the "rubber compound used on mower belts shrinks when it gets to operating temperatures." What am I missing here? Are the belts made of Kevlar & rubber both? It seems strange that Kevlar would be used to avoid stretching and provide stronger than steel strength, and then this is defeated by the rubber used which shrinks, and I am assuming is what wears "thin on the contact faces."


#22

C

CraftsmanFlaws

In place of ranting and raving perhaps you might like to actually read what I said.
No arguement that some of the products Sears sells now days are rubbish.
They sell rubbish because people like you will only pay for rubbish.
Thy also sell substantially better quality mowers for people who are willing to pay a reasonable amount of money for a reasonable quality mower.
Now days the public has such a peverse sence of value that any retailer has either to supply top shelf goods and slowly go broke or garbage and stay in business.
You and people like you are the problem not Sears they are doing what they have to in order to stay in business.
If you have done your due dilligence and properly researched your mower purchase then you are a blithering idiot for buying a mower that thousands have posted is not worth the money.

No one here is interested in clots ranting and raving because they made a bad choice and bought a bad mower.
We are here to help people get the best from what they have, to help them repair and maintain their equipment and where there is a fix overcome a design problem as they become apparent.
No one gives a tinkers curse about your hurt feelings or petty grievences
There are plenty of web sites for the disgruntled to vent their spleens to others who get their rocks off by venting theirs and reading other doing the same.

We are here to provide physical help
If you don't want help then go and annoy some one else.

Oh and you may have noticed 3 people who make a living repairing mowers have told you
KEVLAR LAWN MOWER BELTS DO NOT STRETCH.
There I have shouted at you really loud so it must be true.
Go to Gates or Dunlop or any other manufacturer of Lawn & garden belts and read facts
That is of course provided you can handle the truth which I doubt you can.

You're just another abusive, degrading know-it-all who needs to be cut down to size. You can't even spell in your native language, so learn how. Petty grievances? (That's the correct spelling) Hardly. Petty responses from someone as arrogant and self-absorbed as you. And, I DID do my research - several major Mower review sites gave my mower Best Buy ratings and raved about it. So don't viciously call me "people like you will only pay for rubbish." Get out of my hair; I don't and won't tolerate your flagrant abuse. YOU should be banned from this site altogether after that.


#23

C

CraftsmanFlaws

Belts do not stretch, they shrink.
They get loose because they wear thin an sit deeper in the pulley.
When they sit so deep that they become too slack they have past their service life.
Adjusting the belt tighter will have it running on smaller effective pulley diameters so things like blade speeds with be wrong for the design of the deck.
However most owners are TOO CHEAP to replace a belt till it is either broken or so thin the blade stop turning in long grass.
If you are only willing to pay for trash you will end up with trash.

AYP make what people want to buy.
They make garbage for those who will only pay for garbage
They make good mowers for the few who will pay a fair & reasonable price for a good quality mower.

Sears went broke selling reasonable quality goods on a slim margin with excellent after sales service to a fickle greedy public who abandoned them in droves to buy trash from Walmart because Walmat trash was cheaper.
For some idiot unexplainable reason Joe Public seems to think every thing they want HAS to get cheaper every year yet they HAVE to be paid more every year for making the same amount of things they made last year that some one else thinks has be sold for less.
The two do not add up.
So YOU get sacked and the product gets imported from China so HE can buy it cheaper.
And you can vent your spleen as much as you like but nothing will change unless large volumes of people do the right thing by their families, co-workers and country and start purchasing on quality not cheapest price because the ultimate end is a country in a condition that will make the great deperession look like a pic nic in the park.

And before all you gun toting flag waving hand on your heart patriots start telling me what a great country the USA is and abusing me for being an outsider, it applies doubly to idiot Australians because we actually elect governments that have anti manufacturing policys and encourage the population to "get a good job and leverage yourself into real estate ".

After reading that, it is obvious there are some nasty and hateful people in Australia, and you exemplify them. What a great representation of your country you are!


#24

B

bertsmobile1

Bertsmobile,

I've found mower sites and small engine sites that claim belt do stretch Yes, some say the Kevlar ones do not, but I don't understand how you can say that Kevlar is what OEM tractor belts are made of, and state they are stronger than steel, and then in the next sentence say the "rubber compound used on mower belts shrinks when it gets to operating temperatures." What am I missing here? Are the belts made of Kevlar & rubber both? It seems strange that Kevlar would be used to avoid stretching and provide stronger than steel strength, and then this is defeated by the rubber used which shrinks, and I am assuming is what wears "thin on the contact faces."

That IS exactly your problem.
You don't know how a drive belt is constructed yet you are willing to heap abuse criticise and abuse anyone and everyone who dares to express an opinion contary to yourself then think you have the right to demand any one who does not agree with you be silenced.
Or to put it another way every one has to agree with you regardless of weather you have any idea about what you are saying.
And lot and lots of people can be wrong.
How many well educated Germans decides voting for Adulf Hitler was a good idea ?
I can guarantee you have not bothered to educate yourself about belt construction & manufacture because you would much rather rant than find out the truth.

So here it is. There are other methods, however this is the most common one.

V belts start off life as a long length of truncated V shaped extruded rubber.
This core is then cut & vulcanised to form a loop
Strengthening cords are then rolled into the back of the belt. Usually as a single thread making a coil around the back.
After that the "working layer" of rubber is either rolled or pressed on all sides.
It gets baked
then the appropriate wrapping is applied depending upon the end use and it gets baked again.

The strengthening fibres can be cotton, polyester, polyproperlyene, kevlar or a blend of any or all of them.
The cords vary in size, twist and placement depending upon the end use of the belt.
The same applies to covers, they are made from different fabrics for different uses and different weaves for different uses

Rubber or to be specific synthetic rubber is carbon black mixed up with a variety of meta stable polymers , plasticers & lubricants.
Over time and particularly at elevated temperatures the plasticiers evaporate out of the rubber, and it gets harder and smaller in volume.
Or to put it another way, it shrinks and cracks.

DO YOU NOW UNDERSTAND HOW A BELT CAN BE KEVLAR AND RUBBER AT THE SAME TIME ?


#25

B

bertsmobile1

You're just another abusive, degrading know-it-all who needs to be cut down to size. You can't even spell in your native language, so learn how. Petty grievances? (That's the correct spelling) Hardly. Petty responses from someone as arrogant and self-absorbed as you. And, I DID do my research - several major Mower review sites gave my mower Best Buy ratings and raved about it. So don't viciously call me "people like you will only pay for rubbish." Get out of my hair; I don't and won't tolerate your flagrant abuse. YOU should be banned from this site altogether after that.
.

So what makes you think English is my native language ?
I speak 4 and only one of them is English.
How many do you speak ?

Well this site did not rate it as best buy and you did not bother to come here and ask opinions of the forum about the mower you were considering despite the fact the owners of this forum actually set up a group specifically for people wanting honest opinions from real people .
So perhaps you would do us a favour and get your hair out of here and go over to the places you took advice from and annoy them.
They are the ones who gave you the bum steer not us.
We are here to help people with real problems rectify them in the easiest most cost effective manner .
Oh and I can be just as wrong as the next person and am more than happy to be proven so.
If you care to go through all my posts on this site you see the many times I have thanked people for correcting me.
So once again you re jumping to totally incorrect conclusions because you can not be bothered to check the varasity of what you think.
As for spelling, this is a free forum so it gets the words as they get typed, mistakes and all.
For the articles I am paid to write I take the effort to spell check into the correct Queens English.
If you don't like my spelling you are welcome to ignore what I write.


#26

B

bertsmobile1

After reading that, it is obvious there are some nasty and hateful people in Australia, and you exemplify them. What a great representation of your country you are!

I don't see any obvious nasty & hateful inferences in it at all.
Some enlightened observations on modern consummerism .
Then again I do not look at things with a nasty spiteful mindset so I suppose I wouldn't .


#27

Carscw

Carscw

You're just another abusive, degrading know-it-all who needs to be cut down to size. You can't even spell in your native language, so learn how. Petty grievances? (That's the correct spelling) Hardly. Petty responses from someone as arrogant and self-absorbed as you. And, I DID do my research - several major Mower review sites gave my mower Best Buy ratings and raved about it. So don't viciously call me "people like you will only pay for rubbish." Get out of my hair; I don't and won't tolerate your flagrant abuse. YOU should be banned from this site altogether after that.
That's the great thing about this group. Spelling does not count. After reading all the post I now think that the mower or the tech is not the problem. ITS YOU dude get over your self. You came here for help because you can not do it yourself. Then you are going to act like you know more then every one else on here.


#28

reynoldston

reynoldston

I vote on the side of never seeing a belt stretch, but who knows in the repair business. Just because I never seen it doesn't mean it can't happen. It would be nothing I would look for in a repair job that comes into my shop. If I can I always use OEM belts which isn't always possible which shouldn't be a problem with the OP.


#29

C

CraftsmanFlaws

I don't see any obvious nasty & hateful inferences in it at all.
Some enlightened observations on modern consummerism .
Then again I do not look at things with a nasty spiteful mindset so I suppose I wouldn't .

Oh, really? You don't see any nasty & hateful inferences in your postings at all? They are loaded with them in every single one of your replies. But you simply ignore and deny your spiteful, abusive causticity. And, then, you have the gall to twist it around by taking your own words & attempt to accuse ME of the very crap YOU shovel out at me! And then continue with more attacks, like your truly nasty & sarcastic, "Then again I do not look at things with a nasty spiteful mindset Here's the proof, the worst highlighted in red, in YOUR OWN WORDS, paraphrased to zero in on those worst parts of your responses that show your nasty, hateful, & abusive responses:

Originally Posted by bertsmobile1 (several posts)

In place of ranting and raving perhaps you might like to actually read what I said.
No arguement that some of the products Sears sells now days are rubbish.
They sell rubbish because people like you will only pay for rubbish.
Thy also sell substantially better quality mowers for people who are willing to pay a reasonable amount of money for a reasonable quality mower.
Now days the public has such a peverse sence of value that any retailer has either to supply top shelf goods and slowly go broke or garbage and stay in business.
You and people like you are the problem not Sears they are doing what they have to in order to stay in business.
If you have done your due dilligence and properly researched your mower purchase then you are a blithering idiot for buying a mower that thousands have posted is not worth the money.



No one here is interested in clots ranting and raving because they made a bad choice and bought a bad mower.
No one gives a tinkers curse about your hurt feelings or petty grievences
There are plenty of web sites for the disgruntled to vent their spleens to others who get their rocks off by venting theirs and reading other doing the same.

We are here to provide physical help
If you don't want help then go and annoy some one else.

Oh and you may have noticed 3 people who make a living repairing mowers have told you
KEVLAR LAWN MOWER BELTS DO NOT STRETCH.
There I have shouted at you really loud so it must be true.
Go to Gates or Dunlop or any other manufacturer of Lawn & garden belts and read facts
That is of course provided you can handle the truth which I doubt you can.

That IS exactly your problem.
You don't know how a drive belt is constructed yet you are willing to heap abuse criticise and abuse anyone and everyone who dares to express an opinion contary to yourself then think you have the right to demand any one who does not agree with you be silenced.
Or to put it another way every one has to agree with you regardless of weather you have any idea about what you are saying.
And lot and lots of people can be wrong.
How many well educated Germans decides voting for Adulf Hitler was a good idea ?
I can guarantee you have not bothered to educate yourself about belt construction & manufacture because you would much rather rant than find out the truth.




Any normal person, raised to have respect and courtesy to other humans, will read your above comments as shameful, nasty, abusive, condescending & venomous.

And that doesn't include your sidekick buddies here who also have inflated, pompous egos that enjoy spewing out abuse, because they are "professionals" who work on / have businesses for repairing tractors.

NONE of this discourse would have, or needed to occur, if you had approached me with the respect that any person should be treated with. Further, if you had responded in that manner, I would probably have thanked you and commented on your extensive knowledge of mowers.

What you & your fellow professionals completely ignore is that this is not a site for just tractor experts and geeks; it is intended for ALL tractor owners. But you think you can hijack this site and dictate and abuse those who post here that are just owners who have the intelligence to discover the problems of the tractors they have or have not purchased. You may consider a US$1800 tractor as "cheap junk". That is simply not true, and many people cannot afford to spend 3-5 times that amount on a tractor.

I do find it curious that with all your knowledge and your claim you do this for a living, how would you have time to constantly post her? You'd be busy working and making money.


#30

C

CraftsmanFlaws

That's the great thing about this group. Spelling does not count. After reading all the post I now think that the mower or the tech is not the problem. ITS YOU dude get over your self. You came here for help because you can not do it yourself. Then you are going to act like you know more then every one else on here.

If you can state the above, stating I am the problem, you either haven't read all the posts of bertsmobile to me, or you're the one who needs to get over yourself.

It is BS that I am acting like I know more than every one else here. That's total nonsense. I am writing what I have discovered by searching the net for intellilgent replies on reputable sites, and I even quoted their URL's and the posted content. I expect to be treated with respect, and have not been. So, if you are going to continue to respond as you are, just IGNORE my posts and move on.


#31

Carscw

Carscw

If you can state the above, stating I am the problem, you either haven't read all the posts of bertsmobile to me, or you're the one who needs to get over yourself. It is BS that I am acting like I know more than every one else here. That's total nonsense. I am writing what I have discovered by searching the net for intellilgent replies on reputable sites, and I even quoted their URL's and the posted content. I expect to be treated with respect, and have not been. So, if you are going to continue to respond as you are, just IGNORE my posts and move on.

Why are you still here if you can get more info else where?
Or maybe you should open your own repair shop since you know more then the ones you asked for help.


#32

C

CraftsmanFlaws

Why are you still here if you can get more info else where?
Or maybe you should open your own repair shop since you know more then the ones you asked for help.

You won't give up, will you? I told you to stop responding, but you don't. FYI, I don't think I know more than the ones I ask for help. I have simply stated that I am finding conflicting answers from similar "EXPERTS" like on this site. If you can't decipher the difference, perhaps you need to learn how to read accurately.

Telling me to "open your own repair shop since you know more then the ones you asked for help," is a total crock, and simply a sarcastic, harrassing answer, and paints a picture of yourself that is negative.

If this is how you are going to continue to harass me, just disappear and concentrate on finding customers for your services. And you are given the designation of "Lawn King"? Such title should be reconsidered by this site after you conduct yourself in the atrocious manner you have.


#33

Carscw

Carscw

Just one more thing.

BELTS DO NOT STRETCH.


#34

RDA.Lawns

RDA.Lawns

You won't give up, will you? I told you to stop responding, but you don't. FYI, I don't think I know more than the ones I ask for help. I have simply stated that I am finding conflicting answers from similar "EXPERTS" like on this site. If you can't decipher the difference, perhaps you need to learn how to read accurately.

Telling me to "open your own repair shop since you know more then the ones you asked for help," is a total crock, and simply a sarcastic, harrassing answer, and paints a picture of yourself that is negative.

If this is how you are going to continue to harass me, just disappear and concentrate on finding customers for your services. And you are given the designation of "Lawn King"? Such title should be reconsidered by this site after you conduct yourself in the atrocious manner you have.
I think we all agree belts don't streach and you are the one that needs to disappear


#35

C

CraftsmanFlaws

I think we all agree belts don't streach and you are the one that needs to disappear

I don't need your nasty comments. And learn how to SPELL (streach, indeed).

YOU are the one who needs to disappear. So just back off and ignore my posts. You are another antagonist who won't give up.


#36

reynoldston

reynoldston

I sure hope this forum isn't a English grammar and spelling test because I am very bad with it. As far as belts stretching or not I sure can think of better things to argue about. Just in my many years of making a living as a mechanic I have never seen one stretch. Just about the time I say belts don't stretch I will come across one that did. Of course you are measuring the outside length of these belts that are stretching. Then when you do measure them just how far are you finding them to have stretch?

Yes I do think its in very bad taste in knocking any given make mower. I have customers that have Sears mowers that run for many years without any problems. Yes some times a late model mower will have some troubles, but that doesn't make it a bad mower. The OP should have many years of trouble free service out of his Craftsman mower if he keeps it well maintained. I find that Sears have always taken care of any warranty work I ever had done by them. Don't know if Sears still dose it or not but they will give you back your purchase money if they can't fix it right


#37

Carscw

Carscw

I sure hope this forum isn't a English grammar and spelling test because I am very bad with it. As far as belts stretching or not I sure can think of better things to argue about. Just in my many years of making a living as a mechanic I have never seen one stretch. Just about the time I say belts don't stretch I will come across one that did. Of course you are measuring the outside length of these belts that are stretching. Then when you do measure them just how far are you finding them to have stretch? Yes I do think its in very bad taste in knocking any given make mower. I have customers that have Sears mowers that run for many years without any problems. Yes some times a late model mower will have some troubles, but that doesn't make it a bad mower. The OP should have many years of trouble free service out of his Craftsman mower if he keeps it well maintained. I find that Sears have always taken care of any warranty work I ever had done by them. Don't know if Sears still dose it or not but they will give you back your purchase money if they can't fix it right

They still will give you your money back. It's one of the perks from buying from a box store.
Tractor supply gives you 30 days to return if you don't like it.


#38

Boobala

Boobala

Well it looks like the Mystery Hacker ALMOST got the last word ...!! ........ CraftsmanFlaws YOU need a COLD six-pack and you need to get Over a lousy belt !!! ALL this hostility..... WOW !! WE are NOT each others enemies ....... it sounds like the presidential debates !!! If the people on this site , didn't want to help you, do you think they would have tried to explain their experience and knowledge for YOUR benefit ?? As I see it, no one shoved a gun up your and made you keep arguing , YOU could have just left the site. And yes I am biased toward this site, I have gained some great friends, GREAT advice and ALWAYS a place to seek the wisdom of others, you offend ME when you criticize a member for spelling or grammatical errors.... did it ever occur to you , some folks may have missed out on a education equal to yours....BUT none the less they have the EXPERIENCE ...... YOU may know how to fly the airplane, BUT if I don't fix it YOU ain't (aren't) (LOL) going anywhere !! Lets ALL chill ,relax and laugh at the actual triviality of all these posts !!

OR .......we could all beat the DOG-CRAP out of each other behind the saloon !! Boobala .....:cool2: ..:thumbsup: ..... over a belt !!


#39

B

bertsmobile1

What you & your fellow professionals completely ignore is that this is not a site for just tractor experts and geeks; it is intended for ALL tractor owners. But you think you can hijack this site and dictate and abuse those who post here that are just owners who have the intelligence to discover the problems of the tractors they have or have not purchased. You may consider a US$1800 tractor as "cheap junk". That is simply not true, and many people cannot afford to spend 3-5 times that amount on a tractor.

I do find it curious that with all your knowledge and your claim you do this for a living, how would you have time to constantly post her? You'd be busy working and making money.

Well just because $ 1800 is all YOU want to spend dose not mean that an $ 1800 mower is not a piece of low end consumer junk.
I have bought cheap things because it was all I could afford but in doing so I accept that it will have shortcomings , something that you seem to have troubles with.

Now any ride on mower under $ 2000 in the USA or $ 5000 in OZ is low end ,built down to a price junk. Some are better than others but basically built to just outlast the warranty period then get tossed away.
Sears offer very reasonable finance as do nearly every mower dealer so people who do not have the ready cash can buy a top end quality mower that will give them 20 years of faithful service can buy one if they want to.
My fathers first PUSH mower was bought in 1962 and my sister is still mowing her grass with it. I service it every year when I have lunch with her on boxing day.
It cost 35 guineas when new and he paid it off over 4 years as his wages were £ 6-10/ week that was near 6 weeks wages.

And you expect to get a quality ride on for less than 4 weeks wages. Obviously it is not going to happen at that price.
I did even go to the effort of checking some reviews of you mower and even on Sears own web site 20% of the reviews voted it less than average.
Consumer Report ranked way down near the bottom and I could not find it on Popular Mechanics.

I know exactly what this site is set up to do .
I have been here for several years and have walked dozens of people through the repair of their mower as I was doing on this thread where by post 7 Donesibert's problems had effectively been fixed .
Then you butted in offering no useful assistance to Donesibert , stated things that were technically incorrect and then vented your spleen about Sears.
I rebutted you incorrect technical information because this site is searchable and it is the duty of all who post on the web to ensure things that get posted on sites like this are FACTUALLY CORRECT.
A second person came in and told you that you were wrong and you went on a tirade quoting all sorts of THIRD PARTY sites as proof you were right and the technicians here were wrong.
Even now I would put money on you still not having made the effort to check a PRIMARY source of information ( Garden equipment belt makers ) but you continued to insist your were right by virtue of numbers to which I could have responded with a joke from primary school "eat sh-t 40,000,000 flys can't all be wrong " if I really intended to be nasty & insulting.
If you really want to know and I am sure you don't.
I keep all my work files on computer and the computer resides in the office.
The office is on the other side of the kitchen so I have to walk through the kitchen, grab a drink then sit down at the computer and rehydrate myself while I rest the legs and exercise the mind, placing orders, checking parts diagrams, checking specs or researching things I am not sure about.
While at the computer I check on the web sites I administrate, check the web pages I manage and check the forums I am a member of.
Being a paid technical writer in the past I had to learn to type FAST , so I can do around 75 wpm @ 90% so this response has taken all of about 2 minutes so far.
Part of typing fast is not bothering about typos or spelling. I had sub-editors who were paid to do that and change spelling / punctuation depending upon where the work was going to be published.
It is now 9:30am I started work at 6am serviced 4 pushmowers including blades on 3 , ultrasonic carb cleans on 2 , a replacement manifold on 1 and a new coil on another.
I stopped because I needed to print out the break down on a DRT 70 gear box which I pressure washed just before I cam in so it will be near dry by the time I get back downstairs.
There is a mower on the trailer waiting to be returned and when I do that I will call into a customer on the way back & fit a replacement drive belt then a few door further down pick up another JD for a new axle in the tranny which will take the rest of the day and when I need some thinking time There are parts to pick up at the Post Office and a deck to pull off a bit further down the road to remove whatever the OAP has run over again, gratis because he is 91 and on a pension.


#40

D

donsiebert

Yes -- I start the mower at choke (full throttle) but I am now starting the PTO at a slightly reduced speed (2/3 throttle) to be more "gentle" in the belt engagement process. Thanks for your comment.


#41

D

donsiebert

So, are you saying you should reduce the throttle speed before engaging the blades, as that will be gentler and not a shock on the belt? I don't think Sears recommends engaging the blades at lower than full throttle, but maybe they don't know what they are talking about, which would be typical.

Yes -- I start the mower at choke (full throttle) but I am now starting the PTO at a slightly reduced speed (2/3 throttle) to be more "gentle" in the belt engagement process. Thanks for your comment.


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