Picked up a used BR 430 - wont start.

FredBacher

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I knew it wasn't working when I got it and figured I could give repairing it a shot.

Here is where I am at.

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There it is, exciting right?

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So far I have taken apart the carb, cleaned it, got a Zama spec re-haul kit and replaced the diaphragms and screen, I also swapped out the fuel filter, primer bulb, and fuel line going from bulb to carb as it was cracked and gave it all new fuel.

So as of now the primer bulb is working, I see it sucking up the fuel, the spark plug us working, and that's it. I pull the handle and get nothing. I tried adjusting the L and H screws back to what I read was default, which is all the way in then 1 and 1/4 turn out, and nothing.

Everything seems clean and in working order but we aren't getting started. I close the choke and have tested it by pulling the trigger and I see the lever snap to the open position.

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What do you all recommend I look at now? The starter cable pulls fine, it kind of gives the expected shake you would hear when you pull something. Outside of replacing the whole carb with an after market anything I can do now? There isn't like an obvious shut off switch or something I am missing, right? The adjustment screws were loose when I got it so no idea what's been happening there.
 

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StarTech

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So you was able to find the RB-161 kit.

FIrst you need to check the spark arrester in the muffler as they tend to clog up. Second either induce fuel into cylinder to see if it will even hit or do a compression test.
 

FredBacher

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StarTech

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The spark arresters are cleaned using a propane torch and heated to burn off the carbon and oils.
 

PTmowerMech

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After pulling on it several times, remove the plug to see if it's wet.
If the plug isn't wet, then you'll know it's a carb issue.
If the plug is dry, you might squirt some carb spray through the carb just to see if it'll hit. Be sure to check the plug for wetness before using the carb spray.
If it won't hit, remove the plug again to check the compression. Even if you have to use your thumb over the plug hole.

Is it sparking at the right time. Could be a sheared flywheel key as well as the spark arrester that Star mentioned.
 

bertsmobile1

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With things like blowers the firs thing I do is a pressure test on the crankcase.
They seem to eat crankshaft seals.
If that is good then it is a spark tester on the plug & some carb cleaner down the plug hole
IF it don't go bang then it is going to be an expensive repair.
Got a crate full of dead BR's and all of them have worn out cylinders requiring a new crank case which is about 1/2 the price of a new blower.
Blowers tend to get a lot of use so wear out a lot sooner than trimers or chainsaws.
And back pack blowers tend to be the worst.
Pump diaphragms are made from different materials to suit different applications.
A full kit generally has 3 or 4 of them because the logistical costs on the kits is greater than the manufacturing costs.
The clear diaphragms are for a different carb.
Having said that, even with the wrong diaphragm the carb should still work but might run out of fuel when running WFO for extended periods.
 

FredBacher

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I will try the compression test tomorrow... how does that work? I don't think I have ever done a compression test tomorrow. I'll make that a first effort.

Second I will check the spark plug. So by wet you mean the spark plug should have some gas on it as if it was trying to ignite it type of thing?

By "going bang" --- ???
 

StarTech

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What Bert mean by Bang is will the engine try to run on the induced fuel mix.

A wet plug can mean few things like no spark, below minimum compression (usually you will need at least 100 psi for a 2 cycle try to run), have a clogged spark arrester, or clogged muffler (not allowing the engine to breathe).

Compression test requires a compression tester gauge for small engines; not the same as automotive engine most times.

The pressure test Bert mentions is a pressure/vac test of the crankcase as it is part the fuel system. Normally this is .5 bar pressure and .5 bar vacuum.
 

bertsmobile1

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So then the one they sent is wrong? The picture shows a black one.
Yes they sent the wrong kit or the kit was missing bits.
Oregon make a limited number of them in the USA and of course Walbro & Zama make some kits in the USA
But most of them come either as a kit from China or the individual parts come from China & are assembled into the packets in the USA usually in a dissabled people work shop who would not know on diaphragm from another.
There are different diaphragm materials and different thickness of materials so they are colour coded in China so you can easily see the difference because the thickness differences is measured in micron so too expensive to measure individual diaphragms . The actual film is made in Japan & also in China so I doubt that any one would be making substitute film in a different colour as there is no money in it .
Because of new EU disclosure laws Stihl ( who own Zama ) no longer list what a kit contains on their web site .
'They have also removed most of the parts break downs so people like me can not work out which bits go with what carbs, in an effort to force you to go to a Stihl Dealer
Husqvarna only list the carburettor complete and use carbs from one of the trade only suppliers so there are no service parts available for them at all .

Now back to your specific problem.

eReplacement parts have a nice set of videos on general diagnosing small two stroke engines , worth watching.
Their parts are a reasonable retail price as well and they do know so can generally send you the right bits .
 
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