Hey Fish & bertsmobile1, thank you guys for replying and for emphasizing the fuel shut off solenoid and the fact that it would require the battery to be in line to remain open, explained like that and having replaced the battery, rectifier, and the stator pushing out 20-30 volts ac to the new rectifier I'm much more confident that the problem is resolved, I was just worried that I was going to be getting a call from my customer today when the battery died and his machine cut off. I've got no call and it's almost the end of the day so I can breathe easier. Thanks guys.
I test the fuel solenoids with a 9V transistor battery , now only seen in a multimeter .
If a good battery can not move the plunger then the solenoid it gone ( quite rare ) or gummed up ( quite common )
As readings go from peak + to peak - so 12V DC should read 24V AC at the stator
To charge a battery you need to apply a bigger voltage than the battery output so a battery needs at least 12.8V to recharge and by prefference 13 V to 14.5 V
When you get above that you cook the battery and will cause hydrogen gas to be generated .
A quick & dirty test is to put your meter on AC across the battery terminals
IF you get an AC reading higher then the DC reading then the rectifier ( diodes ) are failing and that will kill the battery in a very short time so you might not be out of the woods yet .
Always check the alternator and rectifier / diode when you do a service job or good chance the job will come back and you will get stuck with replacing the battery under warranty