Older BR400 blower problem

[Hammermechanicman]

I use the AVE method. Tighten till you think it is right and say "click" or use the German method of Gutentight. Then you have the "Torque to wilbur" method. Tighten down till something gives and back off 1/4 turn.

 

[StarTech]

Even a cheap clicker torque wrench is better than guessing. Even those $10 HFT are fairly accurate once they are tested and calibrated (if needed). So far I had only one to failed in 10 yrs.

Just what are you guys for left handed torques; again just guessing? I still working getting a LH 3/4 torque wrench but have both LH and RH versions in the 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 versions. Just trying to decide if I want to get only 300 ft-lb or go to 600 ft-lb 3/4 RH clicker and convert the current 300 ft-lb clicker to LH since haven't seen LH to tighten beyond 300 ft-lbs.

 

[trooper1954]

Thx guys,
One more question....what's the best method to secure the starter cup in order to tighten the flywheel? Just another socket, or is there another method?
Thx

 

[StarTech]

Personally I use a piston stop.

 

[trooper1954]

Ok...so the two new Woodruff keys are in at the store...pick up tomorrow. Here's the thing...my torque wrench only goes down to 20 ft lbs.....require 18.5 for the flywheel nut....20 okay or too much? Yes....I know they are set for a reason, but I'm just curious if an extra 1 1/2ft lbs would be harmful??
Thx

 

[trooper1954]

Hmmmm.....
So I got the new Woodruff key and installed it correctly oriented on the shaft. It was definately in place as the starter cup turned as I turned the shaft. It was torqued to 18.5 ft lbs as per specs, reassembled and pulled to start.....guess what?....first pull the key broke again!!!!!
The keyway on both the shaft and the flywheel are fine....inspected under a microscope for nicks or burrs...there are none. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I go from here???? (Other than the repair shop) ??

 

[bertsmobile1]

The taper on the flywheel is cactus
The key should never have any load on it
The tapers should lock tight
Press the flywheel on the shaft with your hand hard then while pressing try to turn the engine over .
If the flywheel slips on the shaft the tapers are not locking
The tapered end of the shaft must never get to the end of the hole in the flywheel because that allows the nut to bottom out and not load the taper to lock it .

 

[Fish]

How are you tightening it down? Locking the cylinder?
Did you look for light cracks in the flywheel? Look closely in the area around the center on both sides.
Here is the ipl pics for others to see.

 

[trooper1954]

Thx bertsmobile1 and fish,
I tightened the flywheel on by putting a socket on the starter cup but....at first I tried wrapping the starter cup with tape and using a pump pliers to hold it while tightening the flywheel with a torque wrench. Pump pliers would not hold, so put a socket on the starter cup but and then tightened. When I first placed the flywheel on the crank I tapped firmly with a rubber dead blow hammer to make sure it was firmly on the shaft before tightening.
At 30 years old I have a feeling that either the crank shaft or the flywheel are worn to the point they don't mate together firmly any more. I may bite the bullet and take it to a shop as am getting a little frustrated at this point....whatever the cost to repair it will be cheaper than buying a new one at $600!

 

[bertsmobile1]

Google "lapping a taper " it is not all that difficult to do
Use a fine compound like Brasso ( 4-8 micron ), should take about 1/2 hour.
Process is the same basically as lapping valve seats you just need a finner grinding medium
The blow with a dead blow hammer is not needed but if you do it should be a lead or hide one and not rubber.
You should be able to push a taper on with your fingers enough to hold good enough to do up the nut .