You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Old Murry 14.5 Briggs.
- Thread starter stihlman
- Start date
More options
Export threadRivets instructions feel like a cut and paste. Can anyone else offer me any help. I have been doing a good job of making myself clear. So since I have jumped the safety switches and tested my key switch and have heard my starter function it is either the wiring or the solenoid
I can not tell whether the solenoid is bad so I went and bought a new one. a Briggs 5409K. I just have to figure out how to attach the round wire. I think if I use a solid piece of cooper wire and attach it to a spade terminal and then crimp the bare cooper wire it to the wring harness round terminal for the bottom of the original solenoid that might work to wire the harness up to the Briggs. then I can try again to start it.
I can not tell whether the solenoid is bad so I went and bought a new one. a Briggs 5409K. I just have to figure out how to attach the round wire. I think if I use a solid piece of cooper wire and attach it to a spade terminal and then crimp the bare cooper wire it to the wring harness round terminal for the bottom of the original solenoid that might work to wire the harness up to the Briggs. then I can try again to start it.
Last edited:
Ok, I’ll give this one more try, but I’m not to positive you will know what to do. If you want to question my ability or what I’m doing, you can do so, but realize I’ve worked on small engines for 50+ years and I think I do know a whole lot more about electrical troubleshooting than you do. The procedure I posted is one that two of us members developed to help DIY guys test electrical starting systems. It assumes the the individual has an understanding of basic electrical terms and how to use basic testing equipment. A test light is very, very seldom hooked into a circuit the way you described you did. If you are using a test light instead of a VOM to do these tests, the clamp should be connected to a good earth ground and the probe is then used to trace voltage. What you did was jumping the circuit between two points, bypassing the solenoid. You could do the same with any jump lead.
Now you say my procedure is just a cut and paste plagiarism, so I guess you really don’t know how to follow a systematic procedure. I guess you were doing something else and didn’t read this part of the procedure.
“Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.”
That being said I wish you good luck in solving this problem without spending too much money on parts you don’t need and burning your bridges with other members of this forum. I will be following this thread, but I can’t help you because you can’t follow simple directions. Bye, Bye, Bye.
Now you say my procedure is just a cut and paste plagiarism, so I guess you really don’t know how to follow a systematic procedure. I guess you were doing something else and didn’t read this part of the procedure.
“Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.”
That being said I wish you good luck in solving this problem without spending too much money on parts you don’t need and burning your bridges with other members of this forum. I will be following this thread, but I can’t help you because you can’t follow simple directions. Bye, Bye, Bye.
Oh that's a shame. Cut and paste means that you tell everybody the same thing and you haven't even proofread what you told me. Lots of your advice was useless and confusing because it was useless.
I believe you told me that I needed to be careful and be clear when you weren't careful you didn't read what I wrote thoroughly. So that does not mean that I cannot follow directions? you're welcome to follow the thread you might learn something.
I believe you told me that I needed to be careful and be clear when you weren't careful you didn't read what I wrote thoroughly. So that does not mean that I cannot follow directions? you're welcome to follow the thread you might learn something.
So the 15$ part is not worth anymore of my time and since the mower is old replacing the part is a good idea for myself. Before installing the new solenoid, I tested it just like I did the new key switch. You never know and that test will save time should it be a dud.
So to test the new solenoid I got my NOCO XL jump pack and clamped the black clamp to the install bracket on the solenoid to ground it and touched the red clamp to the lower pole on the solenoid and I got a big click. I set up my electrical tester for a capacitor test and put my red clamp back on the lower solenoid post and quickly checked the two top posts and it beeped and then quickly unhooked my positive jumper off the bracket. That simply quick test means I can use the new solenoid with confidence.
When I replaced the battery at the beginning of the season I freshened up my ground on the battery and I will do the same thing when I remove the old solenoid, ensuing it has a good ground mating surface. The base is the ground on a 3 pole solenoid. I have new safety switches on order and until they arrive I will keep those jumped. It should crank up after the new solenoid install. The wiring was not stretched or damaged so I doubt anything is wrong with that. The harness switch plug had plenty of dirt and such packed in the plug and I did my best to clean that up during the switch install so that hopefully will not be a problem
So to test the new solenoid I got my NOCO XL jump pack and clamped the black clamp to the install bracket on the solenoid to ground it and touched the red clamp to the lower pole on the solenoid and I got a big click. I set up my electrical tester for a capacitor test and put my red clamp back on the lower solenoid post and quickly checked the two top posts and it beeped and then quickly unhooked my positive jumper off the bracket. That simply quick test means I can use the new solenoid with confidence.
When I replaced the battery at the beginning of the season I freshened up my ground on the battery and I will do the same thing when I remove the old solenoid, ensuing it has a good ground mating surface. The base is the ground on a 3 pole solenoid. I have new safety switches on order and until they arrive I will keep those jumped. It should crank up after the new solenoid install. The wiring was not stretched or damaged so I doubt anything is wrong with that. The harness switch plug had plenty of dirt and such packed in the plug and I did my best to clean that up during the switch install so that hopefully will not be a problem
Hold the phone tiger. Rivets is a WELL valued guy here on the forum. Even if he pasted, I would follow EVERY SINGLE WORD HE PASTED. I'll admit your responses were near proper English. I was having a tough time figuring out what you did myself. Oh and welcome to the forum.Oh that's a shame. Cut and paste means that you tell everybody the same thing and you haven't even proofread what you told me. Lots of your advice was useless and confusing because it was useless.
I believe you told me that I needed to be careful and be clear when you weren't careful you didn't read what I wrote thoroughly. So that does not mean that I cannot follow directions? you're welcome to follow the thread you might learn something.
slomo
Capacitor test? Please explain. Do you mean continuity test? I'm lost.....So the 15$ part is not worth anymore of my time and since the mower is old replacing the part is a good idea for myself. Before installing the new solenoid, I tested it just like I did the new key switch. You never know and that test will save time should it be a dud.
So to test the new solenoid I got my NOCO XL jump pack and clamped the black clamp to the install bracket on the solenoid to ground it and touched the red clamp to the lower pole on the solenoid and I got a big click. I set up my electrical tester for a capacitor test and put my red clamp back on the lower solenoid post and quickly checked the two top posts and it beeped and then quickly unhooked my positive jumper off the bracket. That simply quick test means I can use the new solenoid with confidence.
When I replaced the battery at the beginning of the season I freshened up my ground on the battery and I will do the same thing when I remove the old solenoid, ensuing it has a good ground mating surface. The base is the ground on a 3 pole solenoid. I have new safety switches on order and until they arrive I will keep those jumped. It should crank up after the new solenoid install. The wiring was not stretched or damaged so I doubt anything is wrong with that. The harness switch plug had plenty of dirt and such packed in the plug and I did my best to clean that up during the switch install so that hopefully will not be a problem
slomo
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 24,995
We all do it.Oh that's a shame. Cut and paste means that you tell everybody the same thing and you haven't even proofread what you told me. Lots of your advice was useless and confusing because it was useless.
I believe you told me that I needed to be careful and be clear when you weren't careful you didn't read what I wrote thoroughly. So that does not mean that I cannot follow directions? you're welcome to follow the thread you might learn something.
Typing out the same set of instruction 15 times a day is boreing & time consuming.
The advice was all good .
Nothing there was contradictory.
If I had of read your post before Rivets did then you would have gotten my cut & paste response for failure to crank .
Nothing special about you , your mower or any body elses for that matter.
A failure to crank is a failure to crank and unless personally verified by me everything & every one is suspect.
I am sorry to hear you have a fatal disease and can not afford to spend 20 seconds of what little time you have left on the planet to read some FACTS that are not 100% pertanent to your mower.
Good luck in your afterlife .
I’m really sorry if my English and grammar is not proper for this forum. It was never one of my strong suits and when you learn things by doing, not reading, most people understand that. I didn’t see in the forum rules that using proper English and grammar was required. Steelmon are you willing to have me forward my reply’s to you for a grammar check, before posting, I would be willing to do that. I’m willing to learn something new everyday, as I know electrical troubleshooting, but am very poor at PROPERLY get my point across with good English. Let me know if you want to be chief of the grammar police squad. PS: This was not cut and pasted, I typed it myself.
I got it done. Not sure which safety switch it was and I am not going to take time to figure that out. I have them ordered. My ignition system is in better shape now and it was worth the effort. That is a well made little tractor.
Jumping each safety switch early on allowed me to exclude the main electrical components as the source of trouble. I can't be certain but I think the chassis ground might have been intermittent. All grounds are now improved so maybe it might survive another decade.
Jumping each safety switch early on allowed me to exclude the main electrical components as the source of trouble. I can't be certain but I think the chassis ground might have been intermittent. All grounds are now improved so maybe it might survive another decade.