Oil filter

[GrumpyCat]

Take the filter off cold engine. When you warm it up all you do is fill the filter with oil.

“Anti drainback valves” leak everything out in a short time. They exist to prevent the “water hammer” effect from back flushing crud out of the filter when the oil pump suddenly stops when the engine stops.

 

[PGB1]

I've a machine with a similar set up: No way to drain without getting oil on the frame.

Solution:
Dollar store has 16" x 24" x 2" deep aluminum food tray pans at six for $1.25. I buy a stack and, using plain scissors, cut notches out of the pan's walls so it can slide under. The pan catches all the drips (or in my fumbly case- The spills)

When done, I dump the oil in the collecting jug (which is also sitting in a disposable pan) and put the aluminum pan in the recycle bin (or save it for next time)

 

[waxman1]

i get an old plastic drink glass,9subway0,cit a section out of 1 side big enough to get fingers in. loosen filter,slide this up against block,unscrew filter. i catches the oil and filter,and can be easily dumped to empty. keep it around,can be used several times. you may get a small amount of drips ,but can wiped up easy.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Take the filter off cold engine. When you warm it up all you do is fill the filter with oil.

“Anti drainback valves” leak everything out in a short time. They exist to prevent the “water hammer” effect from back flushing crud out of the filter when the oil pump suddenly stops when the engine stops.

News to me!!! - For the last 50 years plus, I have understood the "drain back" prevention valve is so that oil will be available immediately at start up ie not drain back into the sump.
This is specifically to reduce the accelerated wear, that would otherwise occur, due to the delay in oil delivery, as the lubrication system primes & starts to circulate oil.

You may have to rethink your "crud" theory

 

[SamB]

Shop vac on oil fill tube. What's not to like?

Speedy oil change places clued me in on that practice, as they strip out so many drain plugs, they need a way to put in a self-threading oversize plug, WITHOUT loosing a drop of the new oil!

 

[Honest Abe]

Speedy oil change places clued me in on that practice, as they strip out so many drain plugs, they need a way to put in a self-threading oversize plug, WITHOUT loosing a drop of the new oil!

Now you've gone and done it..... some years ago, I was passing by a Monroe Muffler shop it dawned on me my oil was overdue on the 2-year-old Jeep I was driving, and since their lot was almost empty I "thought" I could get in and out quick. Well, I got in immediately; but, 45 minutes later my Jeep is still up on the lift and all the other bays were empty. So, I get the managers attention and inquiry why the hold up? He tells me that the oil pan plug was rusted in place and ruined the threads when the tech removed it. Well, I was born in the morning, but not that morning. So, not even bothering to worry about their employee's only sign, I walk into the bay and look for myself. Just as I'm standing there the tech shows up and has a Helicoil in hand. Then I look up on the lift-arm and there sits the drain plug, I pick it up and while the plug threads are fine, I can see the metal shavings off the threads of the oil pan, obviously after it cross threaded and forced into the hole. In short, I told the manager to call the Jeep dealership, a block away, and have them send over a new oil pan. When it was done, I just grabbed the keys and told the manager to eat the bill. Or I'd just drive right across the street to the courthouse, as luck would have it, and file a small-claims suit against them..... case closed, and never used a quick-change shop again!

 

[SamB]

Now you've gone and done it..... some years ago, I was passing by a Monroe Muffler shop it dawned on me my oil was overdue on the 2-year-old Jeep I was driving, and since their lot was almost empty I "thought" I could get in and out quick. Well, I got in immediately; but, 45 minutes later my Jeep is still up on the lift and all the other bays were empty. So, I get the managers attention and inquiry why the hold up? He tells me that the oil pan plug was rusted in place and ruined the threads when the tech removed it. Well, I was born in the morning, but not that morning. So, not even bothering to worry about their employee's only sign, I walk into the bay and look for myself. Just as I'm standing there the tech shows up and has a Helicoil in hand. Then I look up on the lift-arm and there sits the drain plug, I pick it up and while the plug threads are fine, I can see the metal shavings off the threads of the oil pan, obviously after it cross threaded and forced into the hole. In short, I told the manager to call the Jeep dealership, a block away, and have them send over a new oil pan. When it was done, I just grabbed the keys and told the manager to eat the bill. Or I'd just drive right across the street to the courthouse, as luck would have it, and file a small-claims suit against them..... case closed, and never used a quick-change shop again!

The minimum wage guy is under pressure to get the customer out as quick as possible, good job be damned, and strip the plug? No problem, they have a tray of oversize plugs to self-thread into that stripped out hole! That just takes a minute or so and no one is the wiser. (usually!) Worse case scenario was on a sheet steel oil pan. The oil change place put in a self-threading plug in that was a bit too large and broke loose the spot-welded reinforcing plate INSIDE the oil pan. The plug wouldn't tighten, nor would it come out! The engine had to come out to get the pan off and since the engine wouldn't hold oil, the vehicle had to hauled to a repair shop to do the major repair. Absolutely NO quick change places for me!

 

[slomo]

oil pan plug was rusted in place

An oiled plug, rusted in place...... Let that percolate a bit.

Meaning they stripped slash cross threaded it.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hi slomo,

I call BS on the drain plug rusted in place story. It was likely severely overtightened in the past and the threads were galled, or the impatient lube jockey cross threaded it.

When I first started out as a mechanic in Virginia in the 80's I was actually taught to always install a drain plug by hand and then use a torque wrench to tighten it down.

If we had one that was badly damaged, or the plug threads were galled up and the plug was stuck, we would quote them an oil pan job without hesitation. Forcing a self-tap oil plug back in could have potentially costed an engine in a very short time.

 

[GrumpyCat]

News to me!!! - For the last 50 years plus, I have understood the "drain back" prevention valve is so that oil will be available immediately at start up ie not drain back into the sump.
This is specifically to reduce the accelerated wear, that would otherwise occur, due to the delay in oil delivery, as the lubrication system primes & starts to circulate oil.

You may have to rethink your "crud" theory

Lay your old filter on its side. Come back in an hour and rethink your 50 year old belief. The oil will have drained out through your beloved anti-drainback valve. The surface between the punched perimeter holes and valve flap is too crude to form a perfect seal. It isn’t intended to.

Or, remove the filter cold and see how much oil it holds.

For instance a Subaru Outback 2.5i filter is mounted open end down, with an “anti-drainback” valve. Filter will be empty 5 minutes after turning the engine off. Why bother if the point is to hold oil in filter to next start?

2000 Toyota Avalon filter is mounted 45° down yet most all oil gets sucked out overnight in spite of the anti-drainback valve. Change oil in this engine cold holds 5.0 quarts with new filter. Change oil hot with messy removal of old filter it only holds 4.5-4.7 quarts.