Obsolete SCAG Idler arm assembly #46145

[Its Me]

Rick9, I have a mower repair shop at home, retired been in the repairs business, 50 years, that is a simple fix, I am also a machinist, gosh have to be to be able to save customers with machining and welding on them is a daily job, all that needs to be done is machine the top and bottom bushing, cut a lite spiral on both pieces so that the grease with follow the spiral grove, you should be able to find a tinker machinist where you live, be a good customer if he does not have the material you buy it, oil tight bronze is an excellent choice for your application, when you get it fixed make sure you grease often, don't make the bushing out of something hard that will cause wear of the pivot pen, all else fails you can get with me and ship it I will machine it for you, Joe

 

[freedhardwoods]

If you want to fix it yourself, JB Weld the hub.
If you can't find the proper diameter bushing, find a bigger one that has the same wall thickness and cut a small section out until it fits the hub. Keep it greased and it will last you a long time.

 

[lowmow]

That does not look like a steel bushing,it looks like the top of the bronze bushing.What is the condition of the idler support shaft?
You can mike the shaft and hole where it is not worn and order bushing accordingly.Send me the dimensions and I will try to find a bushing for you.Heavy duty industrial bushing are far superior to the ones used on mowers,and if I know the dimensions I might be able to help you.

 

[StarTech]

If you want to fix it yourself, JB Weld the hub.
If you can't find the proper diameter bushing, find a bigger one that has the same wall thickness and cut a small section out until it fits the hub. Keep it greased and it will last you a long time.

Personally the JB Weld products are some most hyped product out there. I have tried over and over using them per the instructions and they always have failed. This is why I use Permatek products.

 

[eagle86801]

Hi all,
I need to replace a worn out idler arm for my 52" Scag walk behind SWZ-14KA built in 1990.
The hub portion has been damaged by letting the bronze bushing wear out very badly.
Problem is: The part needed is the 46145 but it is no longer available at Scag and they do not provide any alternate idler arm to use.
So I am sending this message to see if anyone may have this arm assembly to sell. Used or new.
Please let me know if you have this part on hand or know another source.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Richard

You might want to try looking on amazon for a used one and google Scag used parts

 

[eagle86801]

Hi all,
I need to replace a worn out idler arm for my 52" Scag walk behind SWZ-14KA built in 1990.
The hub portion has been damaged by letting the bronze bushing wear out very badly.
Problem is: The part needed is the 46145 but it is no longer available at Scag and they do not provide any alternate idler arm to use.
So I am sending this message to see if anyone may have this arm assembly to sell. Used or new.
Please let me know if you have this part on hand or know another source.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Richard

try this site they say they have part 46145 for $96.28 " scagpartsonline.com "

 

[PGB1]

What FreeHardWoods said about JB Weld and new bushings is how I fixed a very similar hub on a Frankenthrower (Snow thrower made of junk unit parts.) I also have done it on fan shafts for very large, industrial air moving equipment with 2" shafts.

For the thrower, I bought an oil-tite bronze bushing at a mom and pop hardware store. It was long, so I cut slices to length. I made a punch in the shop, but a block and hammer would press it in easily.

As mentioned earlier, McMaster-Carr would have the bushings, as would Grainger and Zoro. Bronzebushings Com is also a good source.

JB Weld original has worked fine for me over the years. I used it to close the infamous Pump Rub Hole on my 2000 Sierra 2500's transfer case. It's still holding after more than 10 years. (Couldn't find a new or used case. They all eventually got the hole-of-death.)

One key to success with JB Weld, per their technical support, is to never clean the part with alcohol. Even is washed off, for some reason the alcohol causes problems.

 

[PGB1]

Perhaps LawnMowerBoneYard com has the part you seek.

 

[freedhardwoods]

Personally the JB Weld products are some most hyped product out there. I have tried over and over using them per the instructions and they always have failed. This is why I use Permatek products.

I wasn't really promoting that brand. I have used a few different brands and they all have worked for me.
I just say JB Weld because everyone knows what you're talking about

 

[Rich9]

Rick9, I have a mower repair shop at home, retired been in the repairs business, 50 years, that is a simple fix, I am also a machinist, gosh have to be to be able to save customers with machining and welding on them is a daily job, all that needs to be done is machine the top and bottom bushing, cut a lite spiral on both pieces so that the grease with follow the spiral grove, you should be able to find a tinker machinist where you live, be a good customer if he does not have the material you buy it, oil tight bronze is an excellent choice for your application, when you get it fixed make sure you grease often, don't make the bushing out of something hard that will cause wear of the pivot pen, all else fails you can get with me and ship it I will machine it for you, Joe

Thank you Joe for the offer to help and ideas to fix this. I am okay now. Got the whole arm for $100.00 on Ebay. This is a rare part so I am very happy that I found one.