New Greenworks 20" twin blade Li-Ion battery powered lawn mower !

1 Lucky Texan

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I am really loving the new Greenworks 20" twin blade mower. I would definitely want to use it in my lawn. But I am a little bit confused to see a twin blade in a 20" mower.
well, there are single blade electrics if you look past just the Greenworks brand. (and even they offer a smaller single blade cordless IIRC)

This is not like those old Sears/w'ever twin blade corded electrics - the bushings would wear out in 2 seasons on those.

This has 2 motors, offset and slightly overlapping. It is load-sensing too so, it boosts power when in thicker/taller grass.

Investigate the Lowes Kobalt line. That may be what I'd get now.

keep in mind though - deck width is NOT the same as cutting path - electrics seem to ALL mislead on that.
 

lawnmowingdude

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well, there are single blade electrics if you look past just the Greenworks brand. (and even they offer a smaller single blade cordless IIRC)

This is not like those old Sears/w'ever twin blade corded electrics - the bushings would wear out in 2 seasons on those.

This has 2 motors, offset and slightly overlapping. It is load-sensing too so, it boosts power when in thicker/taller grass.

Investigate the Lowes Kobalt line. That may be what I'd get now.

keep in mind though - deck width is NOT the same as cutting path - electrics seem to ALL mislead on that.
Thanks a lot for the detailed information. You made me totally clear about mower. I must appreciate it. Even I haven't find such explanation in other buying guides.
 

1 Lucky Texan

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Thanks a lot for the detailed information. You made me totally clear about mower. I must appreciate it. Even I haven't find such explanation in other buying guides.

doesn't seem like I offered much - but you're welcome.

if you are shopping for a cordless electric mower, in addition to asking about a unit here on the Forum, - try to find Amazon or similar reviews (Home Depot and Lowes also frequently have user reviews of products they carry.)

you can also frequently find videos of the products being used on Youtube and sometimes advertising-related videos of mowers at the manufacturers' websites. Those certainly will be biased, but, any features and specifications listed could be helpful.
 

1 Lucky Texan

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The only issues this season; the uncut straggler issue seems worse. Easy enough to swing the mower sideways on a subsequent pass but, doesn't get every blade. To reiterate, every plastic 'tooth' under the mower has broken off and, I'm cutting at level 5 or 4 . I have bought a second set of blades and sharpen and swap every 3-4-5 uses. I haven't experimented with adding any kind of 'skirt to the sides of the deck to see of 'vacuum'/lift from the blades could be improved. A skirt could just reinforce bending blades over like the wheels do so....

The other issue is the little green membrane over the battery charge test button - it has become brittle and is cracked/split on 2 of the 3 batteries I have. minor issue really.

Otherwise, everything is working as well as past seasons. blower, string and hedge trimmers, batteries, ...all OK.
 
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Bwells

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Wow, this is an old thread!
Mowermike, how are the batteries doing and have you replaced them yet? If so how much were they?
 

MowerMike

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Wow, this is an old thread!
Mowermike, how are the batteries doing and have you replaced them yet? If so how much were they?
The original batteries are still soldiering on and getting used in other tools as well. In fact, I have several other G-MAX batteries and have not had problems with any of them. From what I have seen, the 4 Ah battery is currently in short supply and very expensive.
 

1 Lucky Texan

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My twinforce must have noticed I added a 21" mower to the fleet and now, it won't start.

To be fair, I knew this was coming as I have had to play games with the cable for intermittent no-start.

I think someone mentioned T27 torx screws to disassemble the mower? any pic or videos of getting the top off? I plan to try bending the bracket at the switch.

bonus report; I have yet to have a battery go bad. (other than the test button cover plastic being cracked)
 

MowerMike

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My twinforce must have noticed I added a 21" mower to the fleet and now, it won't start.

To be fair, I knew this was coming as I have had to play games with the cable for intermittent no-start.

I think someone mentioned T27 torx screws to disassemble the mower? any pic or videos of getting the top off? I plan to try bending the bracket at the switch.

bonus report; I have yet to have a battery go bad. (other than the test button cover plastic being cracked)
First off, they are T20, not T27 screws. There are eight of them, and you will need a long T-handle driver to remove the deeply recessed screws at the front of the housing. You will also need to remove the height adjustment handle, which is held in place by two small phillips flat head screws. After that you need to pry the housing cover off the base to expose all the internals. Bending the cable bracket may or may not fix the problem as I found out, since in my case the culprit was a faulty switch. When I opened mine, I found several mud wasp nests and spider webs.
 

1 Lucky Texan

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yep, you're right, it was a T20 - I managed to fix it a few hours ago.

here's basically what I did;

confirm there's NO BATTERY in the mower and remove the red key.

front pair of screws are deep as mentioned, and I had to spray debris out of those holes to seat the T wrench. The 2 screws at the rear, behind the battery compartments, also are the only ones that had washers so, if anyone does this, watch for those.. 4 more, 2 on each side. None of the screws were very tight. And, yeah, the height adj. knob needs to come off. One thing to watch during re-assembly, there's one 'tab' i THINK on the left side near the rear, that goes into a slot. You will also need to guide the front of the cover straight down on the side of the black front of the mower. The cover sorta 'keys' into the side of the front base.

There's enough slack to position the cover to the side. I did however disconnect and reconnect every connector I could find, just to re-wipe each pin. Thinking to just improve conductance after the 6-7 years of ownership.

Unlike some of the other models, the bracket holding the cable sheath seems fairly stout and is mounted independently on its own plastic boss/mounting area. I didn't want to try to bend it. While there could be 2-3 adequate ways to fix the problem, I pulled the switch plunger out and used a scribe slipped behind the plunger to hold it out, then unhooked the spring that is on the end of the cable. I unclipped the cable from it's bracket to have some slack to move around. I bent the next coil on the spring up, cut off the original hook and half the next coil,(I had to do it awkwardly with a hack saw, a Dremel would probably be best but, be careful) , then I had a new hook on the end of a now-shorter spring. I hooked it back on, tested it and it seemed to reliably 'click' the switch plunger out. It did not before. I used medium/small blade screwdrivers, small locking pliers, slipjoint pliers, needlenose pliers I think...wasn't really 'easy' to bend the spring up, but not 'crazy hard' either.

I lubed a few points I could reach, cleaned a little under there, reassembled, tested it with a battery - seems good to go!
 

MowerMike

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It’s deja vu all over again

So, today I inserted a charged battery in the left battery compartment, and the mower would not start. Moved the battery to the right compartment, and it started right up. So, I’m back to the same problem I had several years ago when I first changed the circuit board and then the switch. I’m done monkeying with it, and am definitely not spending any more money on it. It still works, and I can carry a spare battery in the dead compartment, so I don’t have walk back to the house to fetch another battery when the first one is depleted. None of the newer Greenworks mowers with a spare battery compartment have this auto switchover feature anyway, so perhaps they figured out that it wasn’t worth the extra cost. Anyways, this is no longer my primary mower, having been superseded by my 60 volt Greenworks mower.
 
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