Need New B&S 22 HP Engine

John4615

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My JD D130 engine needs to be replaced. The B&S Engine is 22HP V Twin the Engine Number is : Model: 4077- 77-0170-G5. I found a used B&S 22 HP off a different JD Model and the engine has a slightly different engine number: 4077-77-0188-B1 My question to the group is : Can I use the engine I found as a replacement. I am not sure what the last six digits mean and if there is something I need to do to make it compatible ----Or No it is not a good fit Thanks John
 

ILENGINE

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Looks like the crankshaft is the same length and diameter so the major changes could be just a different air filter and blower housing. may need to compare charging systems because one could be a 3 amp non regulated and the other could be 15 amp regulated system.
 

John4615

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Thanks It sounds that the major difference would be the charging system 3 amp non-regulated vs 15 amp regulated. I guess it would be best if I just find an exact match John
 

John4615

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According to JD Dealer technician: His notes said: It was running on one cylinder, valves need adjusting, cylinder loses compression---cheaper to get new engine than repair.
 

fixit1ddh

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If it doesn't burn lots of oil. I'd fix it.
 

John4615

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I bought the JD and the guy said it just needed a carb cleaning I actually used it to cut my lawn but it popped a few time at full throttle ---no smoke, just missing but sort of ran OK at low throttle. So, sent it to JD Dealer. After bad news and a bunch of searching for an engine---I am on the fence about trying to fix--But I have a neighbor who said he will give me some tips?? I am not even sure what I am looking for??? But....... need to do some reading
 

ILENGINE

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Thanks It sounds that the major difference would be the charging system 3 amp non-regulated vs 15 amp regulated. I guess it would be best if I just find an exact match John
The issue is you can't run an electric pto clutch on a 3 amp charging system. If your old motor has the 15 amp system and the new motor has the 3 amp system, you can swap the regulator and stator to the new engine from the old engine.
 

bertsmobile1

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Firstly there is nothing particularly difficult about rebuilding a mower engine.
It is really nothing more than common sense and a bit of knowledge
You have the common sense & we have the knowledge.

Now as to the electrics
What is on the old engine will swap over to the new engine in about 1 to 2 hours if you have never touched a spanner before in your life
Once the flywheel is off it is nothing more than a couple of screws & a plug .

Lastly
The advice from the dealer was ultra conservative
From the scheduled service fee chart I use to bill with , rounded out & condensed a bit
1) clean mower & engine bay 0.25 hrs ( usually takes longer )
2) remove & replace the engine 1.25 hrs ( usually takes longer )
3) strip engine 2.25 hours ( done in about 1/2 that if the flywheel comes off easy )
4) hone bore .5 hours ( about right , includes cleaning )
5) replace both pistons & con rods 1.0 hrs ( about right , not a job to be rushed )
6) Rebuild engine 1.0 hrs ( about right )
7) run & adjust 0.5 hrs ( usually a bit longer )
You come to 7.25 hours x charge out rate
So for me that is 7,25 x 72 = $ 522 + parts and these are Aust $ not US dollars
a pair of pistons & rods were around $ 300 last time I bought them, gasket kit is $ 45 with seals and if needed a head was $ 225
SO If I was to rebuild your old engine it would be ≈ $1100 ( AUS ) a new engine is $ 2700.

Lots of dealers do not want to open up engines because their techs could have replaced 30 belts in the same time or done 3 full services for twice the profit of rebuilding the engine .

If the replacement engine is cheap enough then toss it in and go mow as you are still in peak mowing season .
Pull the old engine apart take lots of photos .
I very rarely have to replace pistons & rods unless one is broken & your symptoms sound more like blown head gasket which is a $ 200 repair than a worn out piston as they usually throw oil everywhere .
 

John4615

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Aug 19, 2022
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Messages
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Firstly there is nothing particularly difficult about rebuilding a mower engine.
It is really nothing more than common sense and a bit of knowledge
You have the common sense & we have the knowledge.

Now as to the electrics
What is on the old engine will swap over to the new engine in about 1 to 2 hours if you have never touched a spanner before in your life
Once the flywheel is off it is nothing more than a couple of screws & a plug .

Lastly
The advice from the dealer was ultra conservative
From the scheduled service fee chart I use to bill with , rounded out & condensed a bit
1) clean mower & engine bay 0.25 hrs ( usually takes longer )
2) remove & replace the engine 1.25 hrs ( usually takes longer )
3) strip engine 2.25 hours ( done in about 1/2 that if the flywheel comes off easy )
4) hone bore .5 hours ( about right , includes cleaning )
5) replace both pistons & con rods 1.0 hrs ( about right , not a job to be rushed )
6) Rebuild engine 1.0 hrs ( about right )
7) run & adjust 0.5 hrs ( usually a bit longer )
You come to 7.25 hours x charge out rate
So for me that is 7,25 x 72 = $ 522 + parts and these are Aust $ not US dollars
a pair of pistons & rods were around $ 300 last time I bought them, gasket kit is $ 45 with seals and if needed a head was $ 225
SO If I was to rebuild your old engine it would be ≈ $1100 ( AUS ) a new engine is $ 2700.

Lots of dealers do not want to open up engines because their techs could have replaced 30 belts in the same time or done 3 full services for twice the profit of rebuilding the engine .

If the replacement engine is cheap enough then toss it in and go mow as you are still in peak mowing season .
Pull the old engine apart take lots of photos .
I very rarely have to replace pistons & rods unless one is broken & your symptoms sound more like blown head gasket which is a $ 200 repair than a worn out piston as they usually throw oil everywhere .
Well, one member said to take a look inside. Sure enough a valve was missing half the top. Now in the process of ordering parts but having difficulty in finding a "reasonable priced " Valve spring compressor tool. If got any suggestions --that would help--they 8 inch and 10 inch ??
Thanks

John
 
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