Export thread

Need New B&S 22 HP Engine

#1

J

John4615

My JD D130 engine needs to be replaced. The B&S Engine is 22HP V Twin the Engine Number is : Model: 4077- 77-0170-G5. I found a used B&S 22 HP off a different JD Model and the engine has a slightly different engine number: 4077-77-0188-B1 My question to the group is : Can I use the engine I found as a replacement. I am not sure what the last six digits mean and if there is something I need to do to make it compatible ----Or No it is not a good fit Thanks John


#2

I

ILENGINE

Looks like the crankshaft is the same length and diameter so the major changes could be just a different air filter and blower housing. may need to compare charging systems because one could be a 3 amp non regulated and the other could be 15 amp regulated system.


#3

J

John4615

Thanks It sounds that the major difference would be the charging system 3 amp non-regulated vs 15 amp regulated. I guess it would be best if I just find an exact match John


#4

S

slomo

D130 engine needs to be replaced
What is wrong with it?


#5

J

John4615

According to JD Dealer technician: His notes said: It was running on one cylinder, valves need adjusting, cylinder loses compression---cheaper to get new engine than repair.


#6

F

fixit1ddh

If it doesn't burn lots of oil. I'd fix it.


#7

J

John4615

I bought the JD and the guy said it just needed a carb cleaning I actually used it to cut my lawn but it popped a few time at full throttle ---no smoke, just missing but sort of ran OK at low throttle. So, sent it to JD Dealer. After bad news and a bunch of searching for an engine---I am on the fence about trying to fix--But I have a neighbor who said he will give me some tips?? I am not even sure what I am looking for??? But....... need to do some reading


#8

I

ILENGINE

Thanks It sounds that the major difference would be the charging system 3 amp non-regulated vs 15 amp regulated. I guess it would be best if I just find an exact match John
The issue is you can't run an electric pto clutch on a 3 amp charging system. If your old motor has the 15 amp system and the new motor has the 3 amp system, you can swap the regulator and stator to the new engine from the old engine.


#9

B

bertsmobile1

Firstly there is nothing particularly difficult about rebuilding a mower engine.
It is really nothing more than common sense and a bit of knowledge
You have the common sense & we have the knowledge.

Now as to the electrics
What is on the old engine will swap over to the new engine in about 1 to 2 hours if you have never touched a spanner before in your life
Once the flywheel is off it is nothing more than a couple of screws & a plug .

Lastly
The advice from the dealer was ultra conservative
From the scheduled service fee chart I use to bill with , rounded out & condensed a bit
1) clean mower & engine bay 0.25 hrs ( usually takes longer )
2) remove & replace the engine 1.25 hrs ( usually takes longer )
3) strip engine 2.25 hours ( done in about 1/2 that if the flywheel comes off easy )
4) hone bore .5 hours ( about right , includes cleaning )
5) replace both pistons & con rods 1.0 hrs ( about right , not a job to be rushed )
6) Rebuild engine 1.0 hrs ( about right )
7) run & adjust 0.5 hrs ( usually a bit longer )
You come to 7.25 hours x charge out rate
So for me that is 7,25 x 72 = $ 522 + parts and these are Aust $ not US dollars
a pair of pistons & rods were around $ 300 last time I bought them, gasket kit is $ 45 with seals and if needed a head was $ 225
SO If I was to rebuild your old engine it would be ≈ $1100 ( AUS ) a new engine is $ 2700.

Lots of dealers do not want to open up engines because their techs could have replaced 30 belts in the same time or done 3 full services for twice the profit of rebuilding the engine .

If the replacement engine is cheap enough then toss it in and go mow as you are still in peak mowing season .
Pull the old engine apart take lots of photos .
I very rarely have to replace pistons & rods unless one is broken & your symptoms sound more like blown head gasket which is a $ 200 repair than a worn out piston as they usually throw oil everywhere .


#10

J

John4615

Firstly there is nothing particularly difficult about rebuilding a mower engine.
It is really nothing more than common sense and a bit of knowledge
You have the common sense & we have the knowledge.

Now as to the electrics
What is on the old engine will swap over to the new engine in about 1 to 2 hours if you have never touched a spanner before in your life
Once the flywheel is off it is nothing more than a couple of screws & a plug .

Lastly
The advice from the dealer was ultra conservative
From the scheduled service fee chart I use to bill with , rounded out & condensed a bit
1) clean mower & engine bay 0.25 hrs ( usually takes longer )
2) remove & replace the engine 1.25 hrs ( usually takes longer )
3) strip engine 2.25 hours ( done in about 1/2 that if the flywheel comes off easy )
4) hone bore .5 hours ( about right , includes cleaning )
5) replace both pistons & con rods 1.0 hrs ( about right , not a job to be rushed )
6) Rebuild engine 1.0 hrs ( about right )
7) run & adjust 0.5 hrs ( usually a bit longer )
You come to 7.25 hours x charge out rate
So for me that is 7,25 x 72 = $ 522 + parts and these are Aust $ not US dollars
a pair of pistons & rods were around $ 300 last time I bought them, gasket kit is $ 45 with seals and if needed a head was $ 225
SO If I was to rebuild your old engine it would be ≈ $1100 ( AUS ) a new engine is $ 2700.

Lots of dealers do not want to open up engines because their techs could have replaced 30 belts in the same time or done 3 full services for twice the profit of rebuilding the engine .

If the replacement engine is cheap enough then toss it in and go mow as you are still in peak mowing season .
Pull the old engine apart take lots of photos .
I very rarely have to replace pistons & rods unless one is broken & your symptoms sound more like blown head gasket which is a $ 200 repair than a worn out piston as they usually throw oil everywhere .
Well, one member said to take a look inside. Sure enough a valve was missing half the top. Now in the process of ordering parts but having difficulty in finding a "reasonable priced " Valve spring compressor tool. If got any suggestions --that would help--they 8 inch and 10 inch ??
Thanks

John


#11

sgkent

sgkent

Sure enough a valve was missing half the top.

explain please


#12

J

John4615

Pulled the head off and one of the valve heads was cracked and the rim was missing. That is why there was no compression out of the cylinder . Going to replace the valve but need a valve compression tool--Many out there Looking for the name or part number for a mid price tool.

Thanks

John


#13

B

bertsmobile1

Apparently some of the auto parts stores over there do tool hire
OTOH an 8" G clamp a socket for the head side and a piece of galvanised water pipe with some windows cut in it will do the job nicely
Thus all you need to buy would be some bent end tweezers to reach through the window & remove the valve keepers
F clamps are not stiff enough
For years I used a Zyliss clamp to a table vice and some tubes of different lengths


#14

R

Rivets

Have you asked the dealer where you will be buying your parts if he would borrow you one? If you have been using his services over the years, I’ll bet he may be able to help you out.


#15

sgkent

sgkent

I don't have personal experience but this looks like an interesting tool used in karting. There are photos of it in use on the page so you can compare it to your head and how it works. Without seeing your heads from all sides it is hard to tell you what would work. Sometimes the angles and way heads are built it takes special designs to fit around things.


or maybe this one made by Lisle For springs 3/4 inches to 1-1/16 inches . Measure the diameter of your valve retainers.


#16

J

John4615

I don't have personal experience but this looks like an interesting tool used in karting. There are photos of it in use on the page so you can compare it to your head and how it works. Without seeing your heads from all sides it is hard to tell you what would work. Sometimes the angles and way heads are built it takes special designs to fit around things.


or maybe this one made by Lisle For springs 3/4 inches to 1-1/16 inches . Measure the diameter of your valve retainers.
Thanks all--will do some shopping


Top