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Mower no start
- Thread starter noquacks
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Export threadVegetiveSteam
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This may be like starting over but take a few minutes and do a couple of simple voltage checks.
With the key in the off position start by taking a voltage reading I call “Across The Battery”. Black lead on the negative battery terminal and red lead on positive terminal. Duh, right? This will give you a current reading to compare to the other readings you will take.
Once you have that reading, leave the black lead of your volt meter connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Now put your red lead of your voltmeter on the starter connection where the cable from the starter side of the solenoid connects to the starter. Turn the key to the start position and take a reading. Do you have any voltage there? Is there less than a one volt drop at the starter compared to what you had a the battery? If the drop is less than one volt then that’s good for now. A drop of about 6 or 7 tenths would be ideal. If the drop can be measured in volts, instead of tenths of volts you will want to follow all the connections on that positive side of that starter circuit, (cable connections, connections on both side of the solenoid, ect) from the starter back toward the battery and test at everyone with the key in the start position. Once you find where good voltage ends and low voltage begins your issue is somewhere between those two points.
Let’s say the voltage drop between the battery and the starter was 7 tenths of a volt. Call that good for now.
So you have just checked the positive side of the starter circuit. Now check the negative side of the circuit. Leaving the black lead of your volt meter connected to the negative terminal of the battery, touch the red lead somewhere on the bare metal of the engine block. Turn the key to the start position. Do you read any voltage on your meter? You should read ZERO. If you read voltage between the engine block and the negative battery terminal you have a bad ground due to a bad, corroded, dirty or loose connection or connections or a bad ground cable.
These tests may or may not find your problem but it can narrow it down by eliminating some things. If you are getting good voltage to your starter and read no voltage when testing the ground side that would lead me to condemn the starter if it is even trying to engage. If you turn the key to start and absolutely nothing happens, meaning no sound from the solenoid or starter then IMO you either have a voltage supply issue or ground issue.
If you have the cranking issue figured out, is the spark plug getting wet with fuel?
With the key in the off position start by taking a voltage reading I call “Across The Battery”. Black lead on the negative battery terminal and red lead on positive terminal. Duh, right? This will give you a current reading to compare to the other readings you will take.
Once you have that reading, leave the black lead of your volt meter connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Now put your red lead of your voltmeter on the starter connection where the cable from the starter side of the solenoid connects to the starter. Turn the key to the start position and take a reading. Do you have any voltage there? Is there less than a one volt drop at the starter compared to what you had a the battery? If the drop is less than one volt then that’s good for now. A drop of about 6 or 7 tenths would be ideal. If the drop can be measured in volts, instead of tenths of volts you will want to follow all the connections on that positive side of that starter circuit, (cable connections, connections on both side of the solenoid, ect) from the starter back toward the battery and test at everyone with the key in the start position. Once you find where good voltage ends and low voltage begins your issue is somewhere between those two points.
Let’s say the voltage drop between the battery and the starter was 7 tenths of a volt. Call that good for now.
So you have just checked the positive side of the starter circuit. Now check the negative side of the circuit. Leaving the black lead of your volt meter connected to the negative terminal of the battery, touch the red lead somewhere on the bare metal of the engine block. Turn the key to the start position. Do you read any voltage on your meter? You should read ZERO. If you read voltage between the engine block and the negative battery terminal you have a bad ground due to a bad, corroded, dirty or loose connection or connections or a bad ground cable.
These tests may or may not find your problem but it can narrow it down by eliminating some things. If you are getting good voltage to your starter and read no voltage when testing the ground side that would lead me to condemn the starter if it is even trying to engage. If you turn the key to start and absolutely nothing happens, meaning no sound from the solenoid or starter then IMO you either have a voltage supply issue or ground issue.
If you have the cranking issue figured out, is the spark plug getting wet with fuel?
Before jumping rite in and cleaning the carb, is there an electrical solenoid at the bottom of the carb? This is designed to cut off fuel when the key is turned off. When the key is turned on, there should be a slight click at the solenoid. As the engine is cranking, squirt carb cleaner or starting fluid into the carb and see if it wants to run. If it does, the carb is either plugged or the fuel solenoid is defective. Now, remove and clean the carb, replace the solenoid if bad.
Tecumseh OHV-130, based on my manual. 358cc. Engine model 206820B. Engine Family TTP 358U1 G2RA.Make sure the bendix teeth on the starter are en-gauging the flywheel teeth properly.
(sometimes the starter bendix teeth won't en-gauge (mate) with the Flywheel teeth properly and the starter will lock)
As a test take the starter cable wire loose from the solenoid (relay thingy as you called it in your first post) and take jumper cables to a 12v auto battery and connect to the cable with the pos jumper cable and make the last connection to the FRAME of the mower. This test gives you 12v direct connection to the starter.
Also if you keep on making arcing connection to the starter's 12v post you are going to ruin the threads on the copper starter stud.
Let us know the results????
We need to get it cranking good before we get into getting it to run.
What is the model and code of your Tecumseh?
Well, that is great to know. I am expecting the solenoid delivery today.If your starter engages and spins freely with no load ,it's most probably still good.your solenoid is the issue for sure
All this must be under the assumption that the key switch works, right? So far no one mentioned to suspect the key switch (I think). There are 5 wires going in there, in the clip/connector (hard to reach/check/see). I dont want to make this more confusing that need be, but I am not 100% sure the key switch is good. Either way, we will know soo when I pop in the new solenoid today.still focusing on starter here when he said he got it to turn over once and then bench tested it. But yet on the mower he gets nothing at all?even a weak starter will click. Maybe need more specifics! Please. And like before maybe check power and make sure you are getting 12v from ignition wire to solenoid every time with key in start position.
Before jumping rite in and cleaning the carb, is there an electrical solenoid at the bottom of the carb? This is designed to cut off fuel when the key is turned off. When the key is turned on, there should be a slight click at the solenoid. As the engine is cranking, squirt carb cleaner or starting fluid into the carb and see if it wants to run. If it does, the carb is either plugged or the fuel solenoid is defective. Now, remove and clean the carb, replace the solenoid if bad.
MTD Model is 134A 667 F118, if that helps. There is just a float bowl under the carb. Ya know, I used starter fluid and still nothing must happened. Maybe I do need to dismantle the carb, and clean. Done it before on may mowers.........But 1st, get the engine to turn.
OK, I couldnt do all the suggested test on the so many above posts (its a lot of work), but so far I popped in the new solenoid, and V at battery now stands at 12.20V. It turned over a few times, then stopped. I couldnt take good V at the far side of the solenoid (it's hard to connect the 2 meter tips, turn the key, watch the meter, with 2 hands). V is 12.20 at the red wire going to solenoid.
But I did connect the battery cables directly to battery, then far end connected black end to engine and touched the starter, while checking for V drop. I got 12.10V, so just 0.1V drop.
Final test: cables directly from car battery at 12.40V, Neg cable to engine grounded, Pos cable to starter post (still measuring 12.40V), I get a spark, but starter DOES NOT WANT TO TURN!. Sheeeeeesh!
But I did connect the battery cables directly to battery, then far end connected black end to engine and touched the starter, while checking for V drop. I got 12.10V, so just 0.1V drop.
Final test: cables directly from car battery at 12.40V, Neg cable to engine grounded, Pos cable to starter post (still measuring 12.40V), I get a spark, but starter DOES NOT WANT TO TURN!. Sheeeeeesh!
VegetiveSteam
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Although not directly mentioned, doing the voltage tests I recommended would check both the solenoid and the key switch or at least could lead toward the key switch or possibly a lack of voltage getting to the key switch.All this must be under the assumption that the key switch works, right? So far no one mentioned to suspect the key switch (I think). There are 5 wires going in there, in the clip/connector (hard to reach/check/see). I dont want to make this more confusing that need be, but I am not 100% sure the key switch is good. Either way, we will know soo when I pop in the new solenoid today.
Although not directly mentioned, doing the voltage tests I recommended would check both the solenoid and the key switch or at least could lead toward the key switch or possibly a lack of voltage getting to the key switch.
Right- after thinking about it in post #28 (2 posts above) since I mentioned that the engine turned a few time (although with a struggle) that should confirm the key switch is OK. I think I should take apart the starter. Thanks, Veg.