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People,

1998 MTD rider, with tecumseh engine, battery shows 12+ volts, but no start. So I tried bypassing the key switch and jumped it directly from the relay thingy (just under, in front of the seat) to the bolt/nut on the starter motor. I got it to turn but never started. tried started fluid, no start. Afraid to drain the battery.

Then I tried a car battery directly to the battery terminal, and no reaction/turning over at all. Lastly, I touched the bolt on the starter directly from the pos terminal from the car battery, nothing at all. But when I jumped from the hot (red) wire of the solenoid to the starter it turns over. I took voltage on that solenoid with switch on and no voltage. Gotta be a bad solenoid, right? Meanwhile, even when I jump it and engine turns, it doesnt start. There is gas in the float bowl.

The mower has not been started for at least 4 months.

Thanks, people.

Check oil level on dipstick, adjust as needed. Clean all electrical connections & apply a small amount of Silicone Dielectric Grease to all connections. Fresh air, gas, good spark & compression are needed for engine to start. Remove battery & have auto parts store load test battery, should be of no cost to you. Let us know how it goes, thanks Mark
Post Model # from under seat.

Check all ground switches...seat switch etc. Check for fire at plug while jumping at solenoid. Let me know if you have fire or not.

Wow, I sanded down the contacts on the solenoid, they were rusty. Then the mower turned over with just the key! No need to jump. But still, did not start. Buying some started fluid today, and having the battery charged at AZ. Plug is good, and does fire (I removed it, placed it against the engine, and saw the bright spark). Should know today what happens.

Thanks, Mark, and Smallll.....

Got the battery back fro AZ and now showing 12.45V. So I tried starting with just the key switch, no luck/activity- zero. Then I checked for V at the R side of the solenoid with key ON, and no voltage at all, even with having had sanded all down to shiny brass. Then, last resort, tried jumping with battery cables from the positive battery post directly to the starter and nothing. Before at least the started turned, now nothing. What am I doing wrong, people? I can just start throwing $$ at this ordering a new solenoid, and a new starter, or a new switch.

Take a deep breath, remove battery & have it tested at Auto Parts Store for free & report back. Preferably I use Oreilly's Auto Parts, Oreilly's has an in drawer battery tester that tests cells etc. before load testing battery. It will spit out a ticket if battery is bad,

mechanic mark said:

Take a deep breath, remove battery & have it tested at Auto Parts Store for free & report back. Preferably I use Oreilly's Auto Parts, Oreilly's has an in drawer battery tester that tests cells etc. before load testing battery. It will spit out a ticket if battery is bad,

Click to expand...

So even with a 12.45V reading a battery can still be undercharged? One thing I did not try is to actually jump the solenoid with a heavy wire, then try to jump starter. Have to try it tomorrow, as it is dark now.

Thanks!

Electricity travels in a circle
From the battery to the mower then back to the battery again
so using your car / truck run jumpers from the - to the engine ( sump plug is good ) and from the + to the starter post
If the starter is good engine will crank
If key is on and the circuits are good then mower should start .
If no then the starter is the problem .
IF yes then shift the + jumper to the starter side of the solenoid
Engine cranks = cable is good
If yes then shift to the battery side & turn the key
Engine cranks = mower electrics are good but battery or battery leads are bad .
Now try the same with your mowers battery
If it cranks normally in all tests, then remove the - lead
If nothing works properly then bad ground wire or connection
If it only works with the + jumper on the battery side of the solenoid then the power cable is bad .

Hmmm...had spark and did get it to turn over at one point but not crank? Been sitting for 4 months. Maybe time to clean carb..fresh fuel. Also does sound like a bad contact at solenoid or starter...need to check 12 v power to solenoid when turning key. Not the wires running to and from battery and starter but ignition.

If you have power running from ignition wire to solenoid then yes check starter. I think you know how to ground starter with jumper cables and check it. If it checks out good then change the solenoid. Most definitely clean the carb after 4 months! Fuel is recommended to be changed after 30 days of not using these days. Let me know what you find please

You should have 12 volts at one of the large terminals on the solenoid all the time. Use a screw driver or pliers to short that terminal to the other large terminal on the solenoid. If the starter is ok it will engage, if it doesn't it's bad , pull the starter and bench test with jumper cables. - Hold it tight b/c it will jump off the bench when it engages with no load. You can move forward with anything else once you prove your starter

bertsmobile1 said:

Electricity travels in a circle
From the battery to the mower then back to the battery again
so using your car / truck run jumpers from the - to the engine ( sump plug is good ) and from the + to the starter post
If the starter is good engine will crank
If key is on and the circuits are good then mower should start .
If no then the starter is the problem .
IF yes then shift the + jumper to the starter side of the solenoid
Engine cranks = cable is good
If yes then shift to the battery side & turn the key
Engine cranks = mower electrics are good but battery or battery leads are bad .
Now try the same with your mowers battery
If it cranks normally in all tests, then remove the - lead
If nothing works properly then bad ground wire or connection
If it only works with the + jumper on the battery side of the solenoid then the power cable is bad .

Click to expand...

I did the check above, line 3 and 4, and the starter did not turn at all. Not even a crank/noise. But, I unbolted the 4 bolts from the starter, and bench tested it, and it turned with 12 V. Why??? Maybe brushes are worn but enough to turn WITHOUT a load, I dunno.

Also, the test I did on the solenoid (which is 6 years old) failed. No V on the far end of the solenoid terminal. S I guess that is bad as well. Funny- 2 things are bad at the same time(?). I guess it can happen.

Anyway, a solenoid is cheap, so I will get a new one. Meanwhile, I should look into rebuilding the starter, at least have a shop check it out. Anyway, opinions on my detective work appreciated as always, as I know this is not over.

If your starter engages and spins freely with no load ,it's most probably still good.your solenoid is the issue for sure

Make sure the bendix teeth on the starter are en-gauging the flywheel teeth properly.
(sometimes the starter bendix teeth won't en-gauge (mate) with the Flywheel teeth properly and the starter will lock)

As a test take the starter cable wire loose from the solenoid (relay thingy as you called it in your first post) and take jumper cables to a 12v auto battery and connect to the cable with the pos jumper cable and make the last connection to the FRAME of the mower. This test gives you 12v direct connection to the starter.

Also if you keep on making arcing connection to the starter's 12v post you are going to ruin the threads on the copper starter stud.

Let us know the results????
We need to get it cranking good before we get into getting it to run.

What is the model and code of your Tecumseh?

still focusing on starter here when he said he got it to turn over once and then bench tested it. But yet on the mower he gets nothing at all?even a weak starter will click. Maybe need more specifics! Please. And like before maybe check power and make sure you are getting 12v from ignition wire to solenoid every time with key in start position.

Still alot to determine and check

Maybe check the whole thread

noquacks said:

People,

1998 MTD rider, with tecumseh engine, battery shows 12+ volts, but no start. So I tried bypassing the key switch and jumped it directly from the relay thingy (just under, in front of the seat) to the bolt/nut on the starter motor. I got it to turn but never started. tried started fluid, no start. Afraid to drain the battery.

Then I tried a car battery directly to the battery terminal, and no reaction/turning over at all. Lastly, I touched the bolt on the starter directly from the pos terminal from the car battery, nothing at all. But when I jumped from the hot (red) wire of the solenoid to the starter it turns over. I took voltage on that solenoid with switch on and no voltage. Gotta be a bad solenoid, right? Meanwhile, even when I jump it and engine turns, it doesnt start. There is gas in the float bowl.

The mower has not been started for at least 4 months.

Thanks, people.

Click to expand...

I had a similar problem; I ended up replacing the starter solenoid and the starter motor because both were old and that solved my problem.

If these sit outdoors, you can get a situation where the ground between the starter and the engine becomes poor. Doesn't happen often, but that would explain why it spun on the bench but not bolted to the engine. The brushes can also get oxidized, and the bushings for the armature can dry up, too. Sometimes a sharp whack will get them turning. Most would just replace the starter, but I take them apart, free things up, sand the armature & brushes, grease the bushings and it's good to go. Anything built in the 21st century, particularly after 2005, your chances of success drop, however.

12.45v isn't super bad, but it isn't good either. I'd rather see 12.65 or higher. In 30° temps, 12.45v is probably fine.

If the starter sounds like it's binding against compression, you might need a valve adjustment. The compression release is dependent upon proper valve clearance. I've had many a machine that couldn't crank past the compression stroke, and smoked the battery / melted wiring. Valve adjustment fixed that.

If it didn't pop on ether with good spark, then I'm leaning to a compression / valve problem, or a sheared key that threw ignition timing off.

I had a similar situation once, and found that I had lost a good ground connection where the solenoid mounts to the frame. I ran a new ground wire from the solenoid to another area of the frame, and it cranked over perfectly. So check to make sure your solenoid body itself is well grounded. You can also remove the solenoid, wire brush the mounting area, and reinstall.

Somebody mentioned above that you need air, gas, compression and spark to run your engine. That's true, but these things all need to be timed, too. Check your timing on the flywheel and gap the coil.

Before jumping rite in and cleaning the carb, is there an electrical solenoid at the bottom of the carb? This is designed to cut off fuel when the key is turned off. When the key is turned on, there should be a slight click at the solenoid. As the engine is cranking, squirt carb cleaner or starting fluid into the carb and see if it wants to run. If it does, the carb is either plugged or the fuel solenoid is defective. Now, remove and clean the carb, replace the solenoid if bad.

shadetree#1 said:

Make sure the bendix teeth on the starter are en-gauging the flywheel teeth properly.
(sometimes the starter bendix teeth won't en-gauge (mate) with the Flywheel teeth properly and the starter will lock)

As a test take the starter cable wire loose from the solenoid (relay thingy as you called it in your first post) and take jumper cables to a 12v auto battery and connect to the cable with the pos jumper cable and make the last connection to the FRAME of the mower. This test gives you 12v direct connection to the starter.

Also if you keep on making arcing connection to the starter's 12v post you are going to ruin the threads on the copper starter stud.

Let us know the results????
We need to get it cranking good before we get into getting it to run.

What is the model and code of your Tecumseh?

Click to expand...

Tecumseh OHV-130, based on my manual. 358cc. Engine model 206820B. Engine Family TTP 358U1 G2RA.

Bertrrr said:

If your starter engages and spins freely with no load ,it's most probably still good.your solenoid is the issue for sure

Click to expand...

Well, that is great to know. I am expecting the solenoid delivery today.

smalltimerpm said:

still focusing on starter here when he said he got it to turn over once and then bench tested it. But yet on the mower he gets nothing at all?even a weak starter will click. Maybe need more specifics! Please. And like before maybe check power and make sure you are getting 12v from ignition wire to solenoid every time with key in start position.

Click to expand...

All this must be under the assumption that the key switch works, right? So far no one mentioned to suspect the key switch (I think). There are 5 wires going in there, in the clip/connector (hard to reach/check/see). I dont want to make this more confusing that need be, but I am not 100% sure the key switch is good. Either way, we will know soo when I pop in the new solenoid today.

Freddie21 said:

Before jumping rite in and cleaning the carb, is there an electrical solenoid at the bottom of the carb? This is designed to cut off fuel when the key is turned off. When the key is turned on, there should be a slight click at the solenoid. As the engine is cranking, squirt carb cleaner or starting fluid into the carb and see if it wants to run. If it does, the carb is either plugged or the fuel solenoid is defective. Now, remove and clean the carb, replace the solenoid if bad.

Click to expand...

MTD Model is 134A 667 F118, if that helps. There is just a float bowl under the carb. Ya know, I used starter fluid and still nothing must happened. Maybe I do need to dismantle the carb, and clean. Done it before on may mowers.........But 1st, get the engine to turn.

OK, I couldnt do all the suggested test on the so many above posts (its a lot of work), but so far I popped in the new solenoid, and V at battery now stands at 12.20V. It turned over a few times, then stopped. I couldnt take good V at the far side of the solenoid (it's hard to connect the 2 meter tips, turn the key, watch the meter, with 2 hands). V is 12.20 at the red wire going to solenoid.

But I did connect the battery cables directly to battery, then far end connected black end to engine and touched the starter, while checking for V drop. I got 12.10V, so just 0.1V drop.

Final test: cables directly from car battery at 12.40V, Neg cable to engine grounded, Pos cable to starter post (still measuring 12.40V), I get a spark, but starter DOES NOT WANT TO TURN!. Sheeeeeesh!

noquacks said:

All this must be under the assumption that the key switch works, right? So far no one mentioned to suspect the key switch (I think). There are 5 wires going in there, in the clip/connector (hard to reach/check/see). I dont want to make this more confusing that need be, but I am not 100% sure the key switch is good. Either way, we will know soo when I pop in the new solenoid today.

Click to expand...

Although not directly mentioned, doing the voltage tests I recommended would check both the solenoid and the key switch or at least could lead toward the key switch or possibly a lack of voltage getting to the key switch.

VegetiveSteam said:

Although not directly mentioned, doing the voltage tests I recommended would check both the solenoid and the key switch or at least could lead toward the key switch or possibly a lack of voltage getting to the key switch.

Click to expand...

Right- after thinking about it in post #28 (2 posts above) since I mentioned that the engine turned a few time (although with a struggle) that should confirm the key switch is OK. I think I should take apart the starter. Thanks, Veg.

Final test: cables directly from car battery at 12.40V, Neg cable to engine grounded, Pos cable to starter post (still measuring 12.40V), I get a spark, but starter DOES NOT WANT TO TURN!. Sheeeeeesh!

TAKE THE SPARK PLUG OUT AND SEE IF THE STARTER WILL CRANK THE ENGINE OVER.

You need to keep a heads up and not burn/toast/smoke your starter by holding voltage on it too long.
Them replacement starters are expensive for that Tecumseh.
Here is a link to look at parts lists using your model number.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/206820b

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/206820b

shadetree#1 said:

Final test: cables directly from car battery at 12.40V, Neg cable to engine grounded, Pos cable to starter post (still measuring 12.40V), I get a spark, but starter DOES NOT WANT TO TURN!. Sheeeeeesh!

TAKE THE SPARK PLUG OUT AND SEE IF THE STARTER WILL CRANK THE ENGINE OVER.

You need to keep a heads up and not burn/toast/smoke your starter by holding voltage on it too long.
Them replacement starters are expensive for that Tecumseh.
Here is a link to look at parts lists using your model number.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/206820b

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/206820b

Click to expand...

Wow, I didnt think about that. Great idea! Like that, there will be much lower load on the starter. Will try that tomorrow!! Thanks to all here so far that have had so much patience with me. You guys are just plain great.

shadetree#1 said:

Final test: cables directly from car battery at 12.40V, Neg cable to engine grounded, Pos cable to starter post (still measuring 12.40V), I get a spark, but starter DOES NOT WANT TO TURN!. Sheeeeeesh!

TAKE THE SPARK PLUG OUT AND SEE IF THE STARTER WILL CRANK THE ENGINE OVER.

You need to keep a heads up and not burn/toast/smoke your starter by holding voltage on it too long.
Them replacement starters are expensive for that Tecumseh.
Here is a link to look at parts lists using your model number.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/206820b

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/206820b

Click to expand...

I removed the plug, and engine turned over easily a bunch if times (where with plug in, engine turned only about 1/2 circle, and stopped). So, key switch is good, solenoid is good, and I guess starter is also good. Put the spark plug back in, and now nothing happens at all. Not even a jolt from the starter.

Sounds like it is too much for starter to turn when motor lands on compression stroke. Adjusting the valves might help the situation but still might end up needing to replace the starter. Adjusting the valves is cheaper plus a normal maintenance. Hopefully it will help but I think the starter is gonna need to be replaced

UPDATE: So desperate now, I resorted to testing all safety switches, including the key switch. Used an ohmmeter. I tested the blade safety, the clutch safety, and the key switch. All 3 were good. Only one I could not find/test is the neutral safety switch. Where is it? There is a goofy thing about my MTD mower with the lever to change forward/reverse/neutral, when placed in neutral (center position) the mower many times does not freely roll- it rolls with much resistance and sometimes, just by pushing it with resistance it eventually "frees up", and rolls easily. Not sure if this could be the problem. Anyway, I am studying the parts diagram on my brochure looking for the neutral safety switch.

Also, I tested for V on the fine orange/white wire which clips onto the spade connector on the (new) solenoid, and I am supposed to get 12+ V with key on the start position. NO voltage! No wonder why the far end red wire on the solenoid does not show 12V. And no wonder why the starter wont turn (currently, although it turned sometimes, when tested).

Anyone know where the neutral safety switch is?

What is the Model number and serial number of your 1998 MTD tractor?
We need this info so as to try to give you logical answers to your questions.

The neutral safety switch is usually close to the clutch/brake rod linkage and is sometimes not easily seen in behind the engine and the plunger covered by dirt and grass. You might even have to remove the deck so as to see the body of the switch from underneath but the plastic wiring plug is usually on top of the frame behind the engine.
Sometimes the parts list WILL NOT SHOW the actual location of the switch on the frame of the tractor. You have to just knuckle down and look at the linkage and wire loom to find it's location.

shadetree#1 said:

What is the Model number and serial number of your 1998 MTD tractor?
We need this info so as to try to give you logical answers to your questions.

The neutral safety switch is usually close to the clutch/brake rod linkage and is sometimes not easily seen in behind the engine and the plunger covered by dirt and grass. You might even have to remove the deck so as to see the body of the switch from underneath but the plastic wiring plug is usually on top of the frame behind the engine.
Sometimes the parts list WILL NOT SHOW the actual location of the switch on the frame of the tractor. You have to just knuckle down and look at the linkage and wire loom to find it's location.

Click to expand...

MTD Model is 134A 667 F118, (mentioned post #27). Hope that helps. My diagram from the Tecumseh manual is sooo small, hard to tell what wires go where. EveN WITH A MAGNIFYING GLASS. Anyway, let me peek around for this switch, as you described. I am not quitting.

PS: am am also trying to ohm out some wires for continuity.......

I found it- it is activated when the clutch is depressed all the way, and levers push down the pin/plunger on top to close the circuit, for starting (right?). I was unaware that this is called the neutral safety switch (Duhhhh). I tested this switch yesterday, not knowing it was a netrau switch. It is fine.

Thing is, none of the wires have the same orange/white wire which activates the coil in the solenoid. How does this switch interface with that Or/Wh wire which, for now, I m not getting any voltage with key ON? The end of that OR/WH wire goes to the blade safety switch. That has continuity.

The wiring on all mowers is basically the same
The power to energise the starting solenoid goes from the battery through the key switch ( B + S ) through the PTO switch then through the parking brake switch to the solenoid.
If it is a 2 trigger wire solenoid then the other terminal at the bottom is ground and on some mowers it is switched as well
My method of diagnosis is to bypass each switch one at a time with short jumpers inserted into the switch plugs
If still no then I use longer ones to bypass the loom, one section at a time till the broken wire is found.

Most CRANKING safety switches are N-O and close to make the circuit.
If the plug has 4 pins then the pair that are open with the pin out & closed with the pin in are the cranking circuit
The other pair are the ignition cut out circuit
The connections are always FLAT SIDE to FLAT SIDE and you need to be careful because it you put battery voltage down the ignition circuit for the briefest moment you will kill the magneto .
Depending upon exactly where the switches are located some go key>brake>PTO>magneto while others go key>PTO>brake>magneto .
Wire colours fade over time so an orange wire can become a tan wire when exposed to heat or light .
In fact most wires will end up tan to beige to white over time
On top of this the looms are not designed to run for more than 10 years so there is no support for the wire / crimp joint and it is very common to find a wire broken off at the crimp .
The usual symptom of this is a random fault
But a random fault can also be corrosion

I like to pull the key plug, jump the battery & start terminals then I can use a test lamp to follow the power from there .
Way easier than trying to use a meter while turning the key with our 3rd paw .

OK, so heres what In got, based on following advice above- The blade safety switch plunger was not being depressed enough to activate the switch terminals and allow the voltage to flow to the solenoid. I tested the blade connector wire tip (tiny wire that energizes the solenoid) and was getting 12V with the safety switch removed, depressed only by hand. Then I installed it in its slot and I pulled the big blades height lever all the way to STOP which depresses the plunger on the safety switch, but got no V at the solenoid-zero. The plunger was not being depressed far enough. So I added a "shim" to the top of the plunger to take up slack, and now I do get 12v on the energizing wire! Yipeee!

Thing is, while I am getting much closer now, while I do get 12V at that wire (removed from the solenoid spade attachment) when I slide it back on the bracket on the mower frame and test for Volts I get only 6-7 V. How can that be? The solenoid is clicking, but I dont understand how it can get only 6-7 V with wire attached but yet get 12V with wire unattached. Maybe the other safety switch (the one depressed when the clutch pedal is pushed all the way down, in back of the engine area) als needs a shim, maybe supplying the other 6V?? Why am I getting just 6-7V? Thats where I am stuck now, people.

Thanks.

Do as bertsmobile indicates in pst #39. (so as to locate where the voltage is being reduced)
BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good to hear you knuckled down and started using a vom for testing instead of just guessing.
Voltage is kinda hard to see with naked eyes, best to use a electrical tester.
I cannot find any wiring diagram or owners manual on-line using the model number you posted so I'm just going by experience. (as a electrician, electronics tech and mechanic)
You can take voltage reading to try and determine where the other 6 volts or so is being reduced. I seen a post few days ago on another thread where a guy mentioned that sometimes a resistor is in SERIES with a solenoid on some lawn tractors to reduce voltage spike when the solenoid is de-energized. (if yours has a resistor that might be a 6 volt solenoid.

Since you say the N solenoid is now clicking I would think about going for a starter crank with the spark plug removed.
If you get a good crank install the plug and test and post the results and We can give you some hints to test further if it seems to be compression lock.

V=IR OHMS law
The solenoid has some resistance which causes the voltage drop
If there is no ground terminal then the base provids the ground and is probably corroded pushing up the R .

elmrfudd​

Forum Newbie​

JoinedMay 30, 2021Threads0Messages9

• Saturday at 9:15 AM / Mower no start

I had a similar situation once, and found that I had lost a good ground connection where the solenoid mounts to the frame. I ran a new ground wire from the solenoid to another area of the frame, and it cranked over perfectly. So check to make sure your solenoid body itself is well grounded. You can also remove the solenoid, wire brush the mounting area, and reinstall.

This situation I posted several days ago also tested with low voltage with all the wires connected. That prompted me to secure a better ground connection than the one I already had. A quick test by running a test wire with alligator clips on the ends from the solenoid body to bare metal on the frame gave me all the voltage I needed to start the engine. Prior to that, my solenoid would barely click. Your situation with the low voltage was so similar to mine that I had to chime in with the suggestion. It’s definitely worth a try.

Thanks, people. Am going to scrape down/sand down all the factory paint from the mower frame, and remount the solenoid. Will also try removing the spark plug, and crank. Cross your fingers.

shadetree#1 said:

Do as bertsmobile indicates in pst #39. (so as to locate where the voltage is being reduced)

Click to expand...

You mean the last 2 lines on Bert's post? Will have to get a test light.......no big deal.

noquacks said:

You mean the last 2 lines on Bert's post? Will have to get a test light.......no big deal.

Click to expand...

Ignor my post #41.
Read post 42 and 43.

I misunderstood your post about the low voltage at the SOLENOID in your post 40.
I was thinking you were referencing a clutch solenoid instead of STARTER solenoid.

Does your starter solenoid look like this one with TWO small spade terminals or does yours just one spade terminal?
AND if it has two spade terminals is one of the spade terminal grounded with a wire to chassis by the solenoid?

noquacks said:

Thanks, people. Am going to scrape down/sand down all the factory paint from the mower frame, and remount the solenoid. Will also try removing the spark plug, and crank. Cross your fingers.

Click to expand...

The solenoid gets its trigger ground via the mounting bolt.
The mounting bolt is usually a self tapper that when new has intimate contact with the bare steel edge of the hole
over time that corrodes .
Usually removing & replacing the bolt will reestablish the connection
Polishing the under side of the bolt head will do a better job of making a good contact than removing the paint under the solenoid which will quickly rust .

bertsmobile1 said:

The solenoid gets its trigger ground via the mounting bolt.
The mounting bolt is usually a self tapper that when new has intimate contact with the bare steel edge of the hole
over time that corrodes .
Usually removing & replacing the bolt will reestablish the connection
Polishing the under side of the bolt head will do a better job of making a good contact than removing the paint under the solenoid which will quickly rust .

Click to expand...

More good tips, Bert. I was skeptical about the (my) paint removal idea, as the factory never had a problem with that paint. So, update: I am noticing (along with the usual CLICK) a squeaky squeeaaaaal when I turn the key to ON, applying 12v to the solenoid, like it's struggling to do something. Am I onto something? Still only 6+V on the far end of the cable (starter side). I wire brushed screw threads, and I am getting 2.6 Ohms reading when for continuity on the solenoid (I also hear the ringing when Ohmmeter is put on "sound" mode"). Is 2.6 ohms a good reading> What else can one do to test for ground(?).

Dang- I tested and tested the 2 solenoids (even my old one) and they both actually test out OK, with continuity on both terminals, when activated by 12v. Can this squeal noise indicate something? For now, I am stuck.

PS: spark plug is removed, for whatever reason for now.

Disconnect the starter motor
If you still get 6V at the output side of the solenoid the solenoid contacts are burned and it needs to be binned
If you see full battery voltage at the output side of the solenoid then most likely the solenoid is good & the starter is bad .
A starter motor that is not getting enough power to turn will squeal

shadetree#1 said:

Ignor my post #41.
Read post 42 and 43.

I misunderstood your post about the low voltage at the SOLENOID in your post 40.
I was thinking you were referencing a clutch solenoid instead of STARTER solenoid.

Does your starter solenoid look like this one with TWO small spade terminals or does yours just one spade terminal?
AND if it has two spade terminals is one of the spade terminal grounded with a wire to chassis by the solenoid?

https://www.amazon.com/Starter-Solenoid-Craftsman-Lawn-Tractor/dp/B09DG76H4R

Click to expand...

I have a one spade terminal solenoid. Hope that helps.

bertsmobile1 said:

Disconnect the starter motor
If you still get 6V at the output side of the solenoid the solenoid contacts are burned and it needs to be binned
If you see full battery voltage at the output side of the solenoid then most likely the solenoid is good & the starter is bad .
A starter motor that is not getting enough power to turn will squeal

Click to expand...

OK, lets go for it- disconnecting the starter now.......

WOW!! That didnt take long!! Starter disconnected, and I get 12V at the far end of the solenoid!!! Also, 12V at the starter main wire! I also put my ear next to the starter and the squeal is coming from there, not the solenoid!!

So, I will remove the starter, and maybe rebuild? Buy new? Think Amazon would sell my starter (Tecumseh)?

I have a Tecumseh OHV130 engine.
Are all tecumseh OHV130 starter motors the same? There are 2 #'s stamped at the bottom of my starter- 36914 and 38026. It has 10 teeth. Cant find any of these code #'s on Amazon.

Look at post #31

Before you attempt to take the starter apart to check the brushes and commutator/segments and make sure the pole magnets are still secured watch some you tube videos about such. I've seen a magnet come unglued and stick to the commutator. (starter would spin/drag but still go weakly)

Them Tecumsehs starters are expensive and not easily found at a reasonable price.
With little bit of luck you might just need brushes. Check the upper bushing for any side slack before taking it apart.

shadetree#1 said:

Look at post #31

Before you attempt to take the starter apart to check the brushes and commutator/segments and make sure the pole magnets are still secured watch some you tube videos about such. I've seen a magnet come unglued and stick to the commutator. (starter would spin/drag but still go weakly)

Them Tecumsehs starters are expensive and not easily found at a reasonable price.
With little bit of luck you might just need brushes. Check the upper bushing for any side slack before taking it apart.

Click to expand...

I get it now, Shade. Will try to take apart to inspect, worst case, I know of a starter repair shop nearby! Been there before years ago. Anyway, I will get back to you guys for an update when I get it fixed!

noquacks said:

I get it now, Shade. Will try to take apart to inspect, worst case, I know of a starter repair shop nearby! Been there before years ago. Anyway, I will get back to you guys for an update when I get it

shadetree#1 said:

Look at post #31

Before you attempt to take the starter apart to check the brushes and commutator/segments and make sure the pole magnets are still secured watch some you tube videos about such. I've seen a magnet come unglued and stick to the commutator. (starter would spin/drag but still go weakly)

Them Tecumsehs starters are expensive and not easily found at a reasonable price.
With little bit of luck you might just need brushes. Check the upper bushing for any side slack before taking it apart.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Yup, removed the commutator, and one magnet of the 4 is completely unglued. Think that was the cause? that cant be good. Can it be reglued? Epoxy, like JB Weld?

Never had any luck reglueing them
From memory they are a silicon based adheasive ( Sikaflex) not an epoxy based one as epoxies do not adhear particularly well to steel, despite what is on the JB weld tube .
If you replace it make sure you get a high power 4 pole ( 4 magnet ) starter .
Just about all of the cheap imports on Scamazon / Evilpay are actually low power 2 magnet starters that are made longer so they look like they are bigger & better which they are not

bertsmobile1 said:

Never had any luck reglueing them
From memory they are a silicon based adheasive ( Sikaflex) not an epoxy based one as epoxies do not adhear particularly well to steel, despite what is on the JB weld tube .
If you replace it make sure you get a high power 4 pole ( 4 magnet ) starter .
Just about all of the cheap imports on Scamazon / Evilpay are actually low power 2 magnet starters that are made longer so they look like they are bigger & better which they are not

Click to expand...

Wow, more god info, I never knew. Thanks Bert . So, where you buy a new starter for my model Tecumseh? You guys must have good sources that the average DIY is not familiar with. I posted my model # starter above, if that would be useful. Post 54. After all this work, so many posts, so many days of helpful fellow members' support, we gotta get this mower running again, right?? Someone had to have my starter somewhere. I will try to avoid amazon on your advice. besides, cant find one that matches my #. A new mower costs quite a bit these days.........

Very few large starter motor Tecumseh engines in Oz
For what I can not get from one of my wholesalers I go to an auto electrician who I have found has a good supplier although being an older gent he regularly fixes them.
So one of the USA members will need to come to the batters plate for you .

Does your owners manual show a Tecumseh part number for the starter?

Does your starter have a Tecumseh part number on the casting or otherwise?
(tecumseh sometimes has a part number stamped on their starter. See if the number on the starter matches the part number on your owners manual parts list and post up the info)

Sometimes you can locate a starter/alternator/generator repair/rebuild shop that has been in business for long time and get a repair estimate or tips on re-glueing the magnet. The magnet has to be re-installed with the SAME exact POLARITY as before. If re-building that starter the commutator needs tested on a growler to see if it's ok so as to know YOU are not whipping on a dead horse.

shadetree#1 said:

Does your owners manual show a Tecumseh part number for the starter?

Does your starter have a Tecumseh part number on the casting or otherwise?
(tecumseh sometimes has a part number stamped on their starter. See if the number on the starter matches the part number on your owners manual parts list and post up the info)

Sometimes you can locate a starter/alternator/generator repair/rebuild shop that has been in business for long time and get a repair estimate or tips on re-glueing the magnet. The magnet has to be re-installed with the SAME exact POLARITY as before. If re-building that starter the commutator needs tested on a growler to see if it's ok so as to know YOU are not whipping on a dead horse.

Click to expand...

My Owners manual for the tecumseh is simply a large sheet, folded 4 ways, and contains no part #'s for any parts. The starter has 2 #'s underneath it- posted in post #54. I looked around but found no such #'s, even on the Tecumseh site.

Here is some info you might re-
search.
You posted your Tecumseh engine is a 206820B
I see the OEM 730326 is NLA
BUT
universal replacement
435351 is available and replaces 37425, 36914, 730326

In post #54 you posted this number as stamped on your starter.
I've had good luck with db electric starter and they show one here at this link. You might contact dbelectric to make sure this is a replacement for yours. Make sure the bendix gear teeth match etc.
AND
on fleece bay by dbelectric link

Decided to take it to a local starter rebuild shop nearby, like shadetree said, one that I have used years ago. They glued it (cured overnight). Mower starts right up now! No more chasing ghosts. I mowed my overgrown lawn! Yahoo!

Anyway, thanks so much people, for all your advice/support. What a long project that was.

Thanks for getting back
A learning curve is what it was and a good one to boot
Just sorry it took so long but I did not want to butt into a thread that others were working through

With the fuel being 4months old the antibackfire solenoid (bottom of the Carb bowl) could be stuck in the closed position not allowing fuel to flow into main jet. Also check the main fuse, I've seen them blow when attempting to jump start the battery.