Mower no start

shadetree#1

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Do as bertsmobile indicates in pst #39. (so as to locate where the voltage is being reduced)
BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good to hear you knuckled down and started using a vom for testing instead of just guessing.
Voltage is kinda hard to see with naked eyes, best to use a electrical tester.
I cannot find any wiring diagram or owners manual on-line using the model number you posted so I'm just going by experience. (as a electrician, electronics tech and mechanic)
You can take voltage reading to try and determine where the other 6 volts or so is being reduced. I seen a post few days ago on another thread where a guy mentioned that sometimes a resistor is in SERIES with a solenoid on some lawn tractors to reduce voltage spike when the solenoid is de-energized. (if yours has a resistor that might be a 6 volt solenoid.

Since you say the N solenoid is now clicking I would think about going for a starter crank with the spark plug removed.
If you get a good crank install the plug and test and post the results and We can give you some hints to test further if it seems to be compression lock.
 

bertsmobile1

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V=IR OHMS law
The solenoid has some resistance which causes the voltage drop
If there is no ground terminal then the base provids the ground and is probably corroded pushing up the R .
 

elmrfudd

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elmrfudd

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I had a similar situation once, and found that I had lost a good ground connection where the solenoid mounts to the frame. I ran a new ground wire from the solenoid to another area of the frame, and it cranked over perfectly. So check to make sure your solenoid body itself is well grounded. You can also remove the solenoid, wire brush the mounting area, and reinstall.

This situation I posted several days ago also tested with low voltage with all the wires connected. That prompted me to secure a better ground connection than the one I already had. A quick test by running a test wire with alligator clips on the ends from the solenoid body to bare metal on the frame gave me all the voltage I needed to start the engine. Prior to that, my solenoid would barely click. Your situation with the low voltage was so similar to mine that I had to chime in with the suggestion. It’s definitely worth a try.
 

noquacks

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Thanks, people. Am going to scrape down/sand down all the factory paint from the mower frame, and remount the solenoid. Will also try removing the spark plug, and crank. Cross your fingers.
 

shadetree#1

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You mean the last 2 lines on Bert's post? Will have to get a test light.......no big deal.
Ignor my post #41.
Read post 42 and 43.

I misunderstood your post about the low voltage at the SOLENOID in your post 40.
I was thinking you were referencing a clutch solenoid instead of STARTER solenoid.

Does your starter solenoid look like this one with TWO small spade terminals or does yours just one spade terminal?
AND if it has two spade terminals is one of the spade terminal grounded with a wire to chassis by the solenoid?
 

bertsmobile1

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Thanks, people. Am going to scrape down/sand down all the factory paint from the mower frame, and remount the solenoid. Will also try removing the spark plug, and crank. Cross your fingers.
The solenoid gets its trigger ground via the mounting bolt.
The mounting bolt is usually a self tapper that when new has intimate contact with the bare steel edge of the hole
over time that corrodes .
Usually removing & replacing the bolt will reestablish the connection
Polishing the under side of the bolt head will do a better job of making a good contact than removing the paint under the solenoid which will quickly rust .
 

noquacks

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The solenoid gets its trigger ground via the mounting bolt.
The mounting bolt is usually a self tapper that when new has intimate contact with the bare steel edge of the hole
over time that corrodes .
Usually removing & replacing the bolt will reestablish the connection
Polishing the under side of the bolt head will do a better job of making a good contact than removing the paint under the solenoid which will quickly rust .

More good tips, Bert. I was skeptical about the (my) paint removal idea, as the factory never had a problem with that paint. So, update: I am noticing (along with the usual CLICK) a squeaky squeeaaaaal when I turn the key to ON, applying 12v to the solenoid, like it's struggling to do something. Am I onto something? Still only 6+V on the far end of the cable (starter side). I wire brushed screw threads, and I am getting 2.6 Ohms reading when for continuity on the solenoid (I also hear the ringing when Ohmmeter is put on "sound" mode"). Is 2.6 ohms a good reading> What else can one do to test for ground(?).

Dang- I tested and tested the 2 solenoids (even my old one) and they both actually test out OK, with continuity on both terminals, when activated by 12v. Can this squeal noise indicate something? For now, I am stuck.

PS: spark plug is removed, for whatever reason for now.
 
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bertsmobile1

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Disconnect the starter motor
If you still get 6V at the output side of the solenoid the solenoid contacts are burned and it needs to be binned
If you see full battery voltage at the output side of the solenoid then most likely the solenoid is good & the starter is bad .
A starter motor that is not getting enough power to turn will squeal
 

noquacks

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Ignor my post #41.
Read post 42 and 43.

I misunderstood your post about the low voltage at the SOLENOID in your post 40.
I was thinking you were referencing a clutch solenoid instead of STARTER solenoid.

Does your starter solenoid look like this one with TWO small spade terminals or does yours just one spade terminal?
AND if it has two spade terminals is one of the spade terminal grounded with a wire to chassis by the solenoid?
I have a one spade terminal solenoid. Hope that helps.
 
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