Harbor Freight has mower lift for $89.99 plus shipping. I'm thinking about getting that or mojack from northern tool.
I saw one like those at tractor supply. you won't like what you get unless you like flimsy. If you watch the Mojack goes on sale all the time for like $99.00 at TS
Will the base model Mojack work on the x1i?
Looks like Mojack isnt offered at TSC anymore or there having website issues. No listing for Mojack at TSC.
I think I am going to get an electric winch mount it to the ceiling to use instead of a mojack. Plus it can be used for so many different things
I think I am going to get an electric winch mount it to the ceiling to use instead of a mojack. Plus it can be used for so many different things
Looks like Mojack isnt offered at TSC anymore or there having website issues. No listing for Mojack at TSC.
That's kinda weird they don't have them on the website, I was up there last week and they had a Cub Cadet up on the Mojack and four on the floor in boxes.
Last month I saw them here at tractor supply. Today all they have is pro lift.
Yea, went to the local TS store and no more Mojacks according to the store mgr. He said the Mojacks were getting too expensive. .????? I am not into spending 3 - 4 hundred for a jack so I'll be looking for an alternative solution.
Many times daily? Wow. I currently am very happy with my jungle jack old people probably shouldn't consider it but if your able to lay on your back and get back up its a viable solution
Should have said daily when we are running. Not many times in a day. Hope we never have to get to that.
In my opinion mower lifts like the mojack or pro lift are just a pain in the azz. You still have to lay under the mower and the the lift just gets in the way. You can't use it to change a tire.
In my opinion mower lifts like the mojack or pro lift are just a pain in the azz. You still have to lay under the mower and the the lift just gets in the way. You can't use it to change a tire.
I want the Mojack, HF version, etc. cause I can barely clear enough room with my garage jack to change blades or sharpen them. Plus my Matco cordless impact wont fit under it when raised with the garage jack due to not enough clearance so I have to use the air wrench.
I agree a floor jack does not lift the mower enough to get under it. But with a mower lift you still have to get down on the floor and lay under the mower.
To change blades. In the Summertime in Lower Alabama when you cut Bahiah grass you get about 6 hours max before a set of blades is very dull.Why would you have to raise your mower daily?
To change blades. In the Summertime in Lower Alabama when you cut Bahiah grass you get about 6 hours max before a set of blades is very dull.
Harbor Freight has mower lift for $89.99 plus shipping. I'm thinking about getting that or mojack from northern tool.
I can have the Mojack delivered to my house for from Northern tool so my total would be $240. Then Northern Tool also sells the work bench attachment for working on pushmowers for $100 plus shipping cost.
I studied those for months, read all the reviews, I didn't like that with the push mower bench didn't come high enough to suit me,i want to look that carb straight in the eye..lol.so im saving for a heftee lift
We also cut Bahia, every backyard there is in all the sub-divisions has Bahia grass. Bahia grass shouldn't dull a blade in 6 hrs that's ridiculous. If your sharpening blades that often you must buy the cheapest blades in the world or your doing something wrong some where.
We also cut Bahia, every backyard there is in all the sub-divisions has Bahia grass. Bahia grass shouldn't dull a blade in 6 hrs that's ridiculous. If your sharpening blades that often you must buy the cheapest blades in the world or your doing something wrong some where.
In my opinion mower lifts like the mojack or pro lift are just a pain in the azz. You still have to lay under the mower and the the lift just gets in the way. You can't use it to change a tire.
I have a wooden 4X4 screwed to one of my celling cross braces. From there I have two removable wooden 4X4s that go to the floor. I have a chain on the celling 4X4 which I hang a come-along from. I have used this system for years and pulled a good many car and truck engines from it also. I have used this same system in other places also and find to lift a mower or motorcycle all I need is wooden 2X4s.
I have a wooden 4X4 screwed to one of my ceiling cross braces. From there I have two removable wooden 4X4s that go to the floor. I have a chain on the ceiling 4X4 which I hang a come-along from. I have used this system for years and pulled a good many car and truck engines from it also. I have used this same system in other places also and find to lift a mower or motorcycle all I need is wooden 2X4s.
This is what I have been trying to say. There is no need for a mower lift when you can just use a come-along. You can lift the mower as high as you want
That's all fine but what if you don't have access ceiling braces and such. All that kinda sounds like shade tree mechanic stuff and probably not the safest thing in the world to use. The mower lifts are safe and secure and for the most part are reasonably priced. I mean really think about what your doing, you go out and spend thousands of dollars on a mower that you're willing to put at risk along with your safety because you're to cheap to spend another couple of hundred dollars on a lift to do a job right. Doesn't make good sense.
That's all fine but what if you don't have access ceiling braces and such. All that kinda sounds like shade tree mechanic stuff and probably not the safest thing in the world to use. The mower lifts are safe and secure and for the most part are reasonably priced. I mean really think about what your doing, you go out and spend thousands of dollars on a mower that you're willing to put at risk along with your safety because you're to cheap to spend another couple of hundred dollars on a lift to do a job right. Doesn't make good sense.
That's all fine but what if you don't have access ceiling braces and such. All that kinda sounds like shade tree mechanic stuff and probably not the safest thing in the world to use. The mower lifts are safe and secure and for the most part are reasonably priced. I mean really think about what your doing, you go out and spend thousands of dollars on a mower that you're willing to put at risk along with your safety because you're to cheap to spend another couple of hundred dollars on a lift to do a job right. Doesn't make good sense.
I can understand about the ceiling braces. I don't agree with the rest of it. I have worked in some big truck and car shops and pulled a lot of engines and for the most part used a electric chain fall on a metal frame. The only time we used cherry pickers is when we removed a engine inside a body like in a motor home. Now the come-along is rated at two ton. How many mower weight 4000 lbs.?? Is it my frame work you are calling not safe? The top cross bean is 5" and all the weight go's to the floor. Now as far as weight go's, maybe rare tops at 500 lb. and more like 200 lb. We are not lifting the complete mower, just the front or back. What you may think is not safe isn't what we all think and it has nothing to do about being cheap but a different way of doing things. I sure hope you are not under your 200 dollar lift if the mower slips off it. I will not knock the way you do your work if you don't knock mine.
My Cub Cadet 682 is too heavy to be lifting up in the with a 2x4. Probably wont take long to snap that 2x4.
I would never connect a lift to a 2x4 that's not to smart.
Most center beams are 6x8.
I have a steel A frame with wheels on it so I can move it around.
I thought the Mojack brand was made in USA but I was just in Walmart and the one mojack brand model they had was made in .........wait for it..........yea, you guessed it; CHINA. So now that Harbor Freight model might not look so bad. Don't know, haven't seen it but something to consider.
I can understand about the ceiling braces. I don't agree with the rest of it. I have worked in some big truck and car shops and pulled a lot of engines and for the most part used a electric chain fall on a metal frame. The only time we used cherry pickers is when we removed a engine inside a body like in a motor home. Now the come-along is rated at two ton. How many mower weight 4000 lbs.?? Is it my frame work you are calling not safe? The top cross bean is 5" and all the weight go's to the floor. Now as far as weight go's, maybe rare tops at 500 lb. and more like 200 lb. We are not lifting the complete mower, just the front or back. What you may think is not safe isn't what we all think and it has nothing to do about being cheap but a different way of doing things. I sure hope you are not under your 200 dollar lift if the mower slips off it. I will not knock the way you do your work if you don't knock mine.
I'm not knocking anything. I use the manufacturer's recommendations. According to Redneck Philosophy there isn't anything in the world can't be fixed with Extension Cords and Duct Tape but that don't make it the right way to do things. There's a right tool for every job. Using short cuts can only get yourself or possibly someone else hurt. My point is if you can speed 5K on a lawnmower another $99 to $200 at the time of purchase for a lift is nothing to spend and save you a lot of time and unnecessary work . As far as a mower slipping off a Mojack lift or any other mower lift, that's not likely unless again someone takes a short cut and fails to us the locking pins, fasten the front wheels with the straps provided and locks the mower brakes.
I'm not knocking anything. I use the manufacturer's recommendations. According to Redneck Philosophy there isn't anything in the world can't be fixed with Extension Cords and Duct Tape but that don't make it the right way to do things. There's a right tool for every job. Using short cuts can only get yourself or possibly someone else hurt. My point is if you can speed 5K on a lawnmower another $99 to $200 at the time of purchase for a lift is nothing to spend and save you a lot of time and unnecessary work . As far as a mower slipping off a Mojack lift or any other mower lift, that's not likely unless again someone takes a short cut and fails to us the locking pins, fasten the front wheels with the straps provided and locks the mower brakes.
I wouldnt use come along to raise a mower or work under it period. I'd be safer with the Mojack or HF version. Come along is made of that cheap airplane cable. If the cable diameter was 1/2in or 1in then I'll get under the mower when its raised with come along.
I wouldnt use come along to raise a mower or work under it period. I'd be safer with the Mojack or HF version. Come along is made of that cheap airplane cable. If the cable diameter was 1/2in or 1in then I'll get under the mower when its raised with come along.
Are you working on D12 dozers or lawn tractors??? 1in. cable, we are getting HD now. Next time you need to lift your mower you better hire a crane. I hope you don't think you are going to change my mine do you. Use what you are comfortable with and I will do the same. I am sure if it falls on me you will never feel or know a thing about it.
I work lawn tractors. I bet I will know when it falls on you. Just like when it gets reported to press when car falls on somebody for not using jack stands.
Again it is not about spending the money.
The right tool for the job is the tool that works best for you to do the job the most efficient way.
Some guys use a walk behind edger and some use a stick edger some use a trimmer. What one is the right tool?
Some use a mower lift some use a cherry picker some use a engine hoist. Heck I remember in a thread last year about a guy pushed his mower off his truck onto saw horses.
Man it comes down to everyone has their way of doing things.
I don't adjust valves the way the book says to do it but the out come is the same.
I wouldnt use come along to raise a mower or work under it period. I'd be safer with the Mojack or HF version. Come along is made of that cheap airplane cable. If the cable diameter was 1/2in or 1in then I'll get under the mower when its raised with come along.
What manufacturer says to use a mo-jack type lift to change the blades?
My reasoning for not getting a mower lift has nothing to do with how much it cost.
I will go borrow one and use it so I can give my honest opinion on it.
We really can not say what method is better then the other without trying them all.
No manufacturer says you have to use a Mo-jack type lift to change your blades and yes you can say what method is better because that's what they, (Mower Lifts) were designed for and are safer and the right tool for the job. Ya know you can use a pair of pliers to remove a nut and bolt but your better off with a specific size open end box end wrench because that's what it's designed for. Using the wrench instead of the pliers will leave the nut and bolt in-tacked not chewed up . There's any number of ways, short cuts and pushing the limits on things or equipment around doing jobs but when you have the right equipment available to do a job correctly and safely you should use it.
Well, I opted to buy the Harbor Freight model 1. It was cheap 2. I figure if it will hold up a couple years, it will be worth the money spent on it. I tried it out today and it handled the x1i with no problem. I checked all the weld joints and it seems to be fairly well built.
A question, do you disengage your drive motors when you lift your mower? Seems like I saw that somewhere but not necessarily on the mfg. website. Maybe just someone who felt it was a good idea.
Well, I opted to buy the Harbor Freight model 1. It was cheap 2. I figure if it will hold up a couple years, it will be worth the money spent on it. I tried it out today and it handled the x1i with no problem. I checked all the weld joints and it seems to be fairly well built.
A question, do you disengage your drive motors when you lift your mower? Seems like I saw that somewhere but not necessarily on the mfg. website. Maybe just someone who felt it was a good idea.
Well, I opted to buy the Harbor Freight model 1. It was cheap 2. I figure if it will hold up a couple years, it will be worth the money spent on it. I tried it out today and it handled the x1i with no problem. I checked all the weld joints and it seems to be fairly well built.
A question, do you disengage your drive motors when you lift your mower? Seems like I saw that somewhere but not necessarily on the mfg. website. Maybe just someone who felt it was a good idea.
That's what I use. I have it hooked to one of the support posts of my shed and lift the back end of my 42" Craftsman yard tractor as high as I want with the front wheels on the ground. Then I chain the rear axel to another hook on the same post, just in case. Works for me and it's safe. I use it for blade changing and clearing obstructions as well. Makes all the difference if you have to clear old barbed wire from around the shafts.For $20 you can get a come along hoist. Then you can lift the front or the back. Lifts higher then a mower lift so you can sit on a stool and not lay on the ground.
What do you use to get your mower up so you can change blades, etc. Is a mojack the preferred tool or is there other alternatives?
What do you use to get your mower up so you can change blades, etc. Is a mojack the preferred tool or is there other alternatives?
What do you use to get your mower up so you can change blades, etc. Is a mojack the preferred tool or is there other alternatives?
Having been notified of new posts to this thread, I re-read some of the older ones. I concluded to use a comealong to lift the rear end of my 42" Craftsman about a year after I got it. When the one-year warranty was about to run out, I decided to use the one-time free service visit agreement that came with the purchase. The technician who came out the do the service had a swing arm in the back end of his van with a cable winch connected. He picked up the back end, pretty as you please, and changed the blades.That's what I use. I have it hooked to one of the support posts of my shed and lift the back end of my 42" Craftsman yard tractor as high as I want with the front wheels on the ground. Then I chain the rear axel to another hook on the same post, just in case. Works for me and it's safe. I use it for blade changing and clearing obstructions as well. Makes all the difference if you have to clear old barbed wire from around the shafts.
Having been notified of new posts to this thread, I re-read some of the older ones. I concluded to use a comealong to lift the rear end of my 42" Craftsman about a year after I got it. When the one-year warranty was about to run out, I decided to use the one-time free service visit agreement that came with the purchase. The technician who came out the do the service had a swing arm in the back end of his van with a cable winch connected. He picked up the back end, pretty as you please, and changed the blades. So, why not use a comealong for the same purpose? As I said, I chain the rear axel to the same post so, if the fence stretcher I'm using should suddenly fail, it's not going to fall on me. If I had to support more weight, I'd do something different. If I had more money, I'd probably be tempted to spend it on a Mojack or something like, or build a garage with an hydraulic lift and a weather vane on the ridge. But I have what I have and it works just fine.
Having been notified of new posts to this thread, I re-read some of the older ones. I concluded to use a comealong to lift the rear end of my 42" Craftsman about a year after I got it. When the one-year warranty was about to run out, I decided to use the one-time free service visit agreement that came with the purchase. The technician who came out the do the service had a swing arm in the back end of his van with a cable winch connected. He picked up the back end, pretty as you please, and changed the blades.
So, why not use a comealong for the same purpose? As I said, I chain the rear axel to the same post so, if the fence stretcher I'm using should suddenly fail, it's not going to fall on me.
If I had to support more weight, I'd do something different. If I had more money, I'd probably be tempted to spend it on a Mojack or something like, or build a garage with an hydraulic lift and a weather vane on the ridge. But I have what I have and it works just fine.
If the cable breaks on the com along and hurts you dont come back here to cry the blues. Those cables on those are known to break over time.
Well, if I don't have any more sense than to use a comealong with a frayed cable I probably will come back here to cry the blues. I'm lifting the rear end of the mower this morning to plug a hole I got in the sidewall of one of my rear tires. I hope I survive the experience. All of you, please pray for me.
Well, if I don't have any more sense than to use a comealong with a frayed cable I probably will come back here to cry the blues. I'm lifting the rear end of the mower this morning to plug a hole I got in the sidewall of one of my rear tires. I hope I survive the experience. All of you, please pray for me.
If the cable breaks on the com along and hurts you dont come back here to cry the blues. Those cables on those are known to break over time.
WOW....what a long, drawn out debate over lifting a ZTR for service!!! I don't have any way to use an "engine lift" mechanism, so I opted for getting the MoJack since my automotive hydraulic floor jack wasn't a viable option. I will say, however, that no matter what you use......be SURE to put decent jack stands to support it after getting the machine lifted. I say that because I had a 3 1/2 ton Craftsman hydraulic jack for about 10 years and used it to jack up my vehicles for oil changes. I never gave any thought to it....I just jacked it up and changed the oil & filter. A few months ago I was changing the oil in my wife's car, jacked it up and went in the house for something. When I came back out the car was sitting on the ground. I said to myself...."self, didn't you jack that car up"???? So I jacked it up again and noticed that every two times or so it lifted the vehicle it went back down a little....and after finally getting the car fully lifted I stood there and watched it drop back to the floor in about two minutes. Right then I realized why I had the jack stands that I never used and that "ALL" hydraulic(or otherwise) lifting devices CAN and WILL eventually fail. I went to Harbor Freight and got a good deal on a replacement floor jack(Sears no longer sold the one I had and I read some pretty bad user reviews of the current jacks)......but I must give the best advice given so far in this long thread(actually one user mentioned it earlier). When you lift "anything", especially a ZTR that weighs several hundred pounds or more....PLEASE secure it with some decent jack stands before getting underneath the machine. I can just picture me lifting that car with the old Craftsman hydraulic jack....crawling underneath it....and two minutes later needing to be rushed to the Emergency Room. Don't let that happen to any of you!!!!!!If the cable starts looking bad after a few years just spend the $6 at ace hardware and replace the cable.
Some people act like we are lifting a cat loader.
Absolutely. Or, as cheap as these things are, just buy a new one and save the hassle of having to replace the cable. I assume that the other parts will also wear over time. Nothing like having tools in top notch condition.If the cable starts looking bad after a few years just spend the $6 at ace hardware and replace the cable.
Some people act like we are lifting a cat loader.
WOW....what a long, drawn out debate over lifting a ZTR for service!!! I don't have any way to use an "engine lift" mechanism, so I opted for getting the MoJack since my automotive hydraulic floor jack wasn't a viable option. I will say, however, that no matter what you use......be SURE to put decent jack stands to support it after getting the machine lifted. I say that because I had a 3 1/2 ton Craftsman hydraulic jack for about 10 years and used it to jack up my vehicles for oil changes. I never gave any thought to it....I just jacked it up and changed the oil & filter. A few months ago I was changing the oil in my wife's car, jacked it up and went in the house for something. When I came back out the car was sitting on the ground. I said to myself...."self, didn't you jack that car up"???? So I jacked it up again and noticed that every two times or so it lifted the vehicle it went back down a little....and after finally getting the car fully lifted I stood there and watched it drop back to the floor in about two minutes. Right then I realized why I had the jack stands that I never used and that "ALL" hydraulic(or otherwise) lifting devices CAN and WILL eventually fail. I went to Harbor Freight and got a good deal on a replacement floor jack(Sears no longer sold the one I had and I read some pretty bad user reviews of the current jacks)......but I must give the best advice given so far in this long thread(actually one user mentioned it earlier). When you lift "anything", especially a ZTR that weighs several hundred pounds or more....PLEASE secure it with some decent jack stands before getting underneath the machine. I can just picture me lifting that car with the old Craftsman hydraulic jack....crawling underneath it....and two minutes later needing to be rushed to the Emergency Room. Don't let that happen to any of you!!!!!!
I had excellent results with one as well.I am still using this jack from Harbor Freight and it works great for $90
https://www.harborfreight.com/300-lbs-atvlawn-mower-lift-60395.html
I did a lot of research on mower jacks, and looked at a few that were in stock. They would all hit the deck on my rear discharge Fastrak without having the wheels in the cradles. I opted for a high lift scissor jack and big jack stands. Less than $75 for both. Might be slower, but I am not in a hurry.
That looks neat, however I don't think it raises it quite as high as the others and it costs $230!
Not AS high but plenty for me to comfortably get my impact wrench on the blade bolts with lots of room to spare. Yes pricey for what it is, but it is built like a tank and there is zero fiddly setup.
I am still using this jack from Harbor Freight and it works great for $90
https://www.harborfreight.com/300-lbs-atvlawn-mower-lift-60395.html