Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor

TobyU

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Hi Buddy D, Pleased to read your message re JDs! I'm on the point of buying one……costing me not much less than £2500! Previously I've had a Husqvana with B & S engine. Lasted over 20 years with very little trouble: one new cutting deck, a few new batteries and a few new starter motor gears - the bit at the top of the s. motor. Other than that, it’s been fantastic! Have any other readers got sad stories about JDs? I'd love to know before I part with my cash!
I would call that quite a bit of trouble for the mower actually mainly because of the deck. A lot more deck should never have to be replaced!
How smart is have a very bad tendency of one of the rear deck supports breaking the weld and falling off of the deck.
This is because the bean counters etc have them put one little maybe half inch long weld if you're lucky in two spots on one side only.
If they would actually weld it like any actual professional welder or even a backyard welder would do instead of having some program machine do it that little tiny bit, it would never fail.
The other ways that someone might feeling need to replace a deck I don't understand unless the thing totally rusted out but that's also so rare and if that's the case that means someone is mowing wet grass and or not cleaning the grass underneath and not treating it or maybe spraying the underneath with WD-40 or anything like that or they're using that awful deck wash Port which does far more harm to a machine than good.
I seen a few decks get thin here and there but it's not the entire deck and they can always be patched up with some sheet metal, and old coffee can or license plate or just some of the good metallic HVAC tin foil tape works surprisingly well.
Everything else like spindles either police brackets and stuff can all be replaced and repaired.
So I am a little interested to know why you had to replace the deck and I'm thinking that and most people situations, or a specially in mind, I certainly wouldn't have bought a new deck because a new deck is outrageously high and it comes bare where you have to transfer everything over or buy those new parts too and that's like going to be 300- $400 so that's a no-go for me.

Batteries, of course I make no judgments on because they're all junk now and anything after 3 years is on really borrowed time if you get that long.

The starter gear had something else going on.
Either there was some slight mismatch with the alignment and mesh and it was putting unnecessary pressure on it or it was being cranked excessively every time it started and not starting within 2 to 3 revolutions or under 3 seconds of cranking like it should.
There have been people with mowers who don't realize this is a problem and they are doing about three sets of extended cranking every time they go to mow their grass when they start their mower for the day.
Other people may be in a situation where their mower is started far more than it's really designed to be.
The thing is really designed to be started no more than once a week and use the entire time and then put away.
That's the most common use.
There's only a smaller percentage of people who have to turn off their mower to refuel or who will turn it off between cutting the front and rear lawns or different days etc or those who cut more than one lawn with it but again not the vast majority of people.

Most of those gears are the plastic dark colored one and I will agree they are cheap and junky.
Did you replace them with OEM Briggs & Stratton gear or did you use them from eBay Amazon aftermarket?

I will not buy the brand name starters because they're overpriced and the aftermarket ones work quite nicely, if not better, but the gears are a crapshoot..
There are some good aftermarket ones and some not so good ones so if I ever had one fail under three or four years I would probably just go back to a Briggs & Stratton one and try that one.
Most mowers go their entire 20-year life and never have the gear fail or at most are on there second gear from a big replaced one time.
Anything beyond that has some type of issue that's not in the normal use parameters.

But overall, yes, you're doing pretty decent.
A whole lot of people got 17 to 20 plus years from these consumer grade mowers whether it be husqvarna, Craftsman (which most of those were made by Husqvarna also for that time period), MTD brand products like Troy-Bilt, Cub cadet and even yard machines, or John Deere's.
Now let's don't think for one second that the l, la, d, and E John Deere's are one bit better because they're painted yellow and green and called a John Deere. They are department store mowers sharing most of the same parts as the other brands. They just cost a little more because of the color scheme and the brand. 😆 😂

They have even had more steering gear failures than the MTD products and probably right about the same as the Craftsman's because steering is their weekly too which also applies to Husqvarna but they just don't saturate most markets as well as Craftsman did during the day.

But my point is so many people got this kind of time and service out of these mowers because they were still fairly well built.
I get troy-bilts coming out of regular basis with belts that are 17 years old that are still spinning the blades and still moving the mower. They are cracked to pieces and have big chunks of rubber missing but you could still mow the yard with them!

So you could have had more problems especially if it has a Briggs engine like with compression release, blown head gaskets if it's a single, or if it was a Kohler courage single, the self-destruction because of the improperly torqued/fastened bolts on the top engine case cover.

So I guess you're doing okay but I just come to expect that out of those mowers because they were pretty good.
Most things are getting quite a bit watered down now and we probably won't fare quite as well in the future especially not with walk behind mowers and those new Briggs engines.
 

RYANS'

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
This is an interesting thread to someone who is researching what to buy. In our country there is little or no money available to purchase new. So we recycle old mowers. I mow an acre with a 18 inch mower, and it takes a day. With the money I get I pay for rice, veggies and meat. Any leftover I save for my son. Luckily covid hasn't affected us too much and I am still able to walk. If this man needs a lawn mower, I suggest he employ a person like me to cut the grass. This will greatly increase our chances of surviving the next few years.
 

Patrick0525

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Both of the failures are due to a poorly designed engine. Nothing to support the end of the compression relief and too much space between the spacing of the head bolts in the valve train area. Though I see more cam failures than head gaskets. Still a bad design. Can't say too much for the Kohler Command engines they use to blow head gaskets as well. Not due to the fault of a poorly designed engine it was a poorly designed head gasket. First time I ever saw one on the Kohler I said it needs a fire ring on the gasket to fix the problem. Guess what they finally did it after about 20 years after I first saw it. They finally put a fire ring on the gasket. Walah the problem fixed. Probibaly the best engine on the market.
When did production add the fire ring?
 

aussielawny

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Without plowing through 13 pages, l assume some have made the obvious suggestion to whack a new motor in it......
 

GrantO

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Both of the failures are due to a poorly designed engine. Nothing to support the end of the compression relief and too much space between the spacing of the head bolts in the valve train area. Though I see more cam failures than head gaskets. Still a bad design. Can't say too much for the Kohler Command engines they use to blow head gaskets as well. Not due to the fault of a poorly designed engine it was a poorly designed head gasket. First time I ever saw one on the Kohler I said it needs a fire ring on the gasket to fix the problem. Guess what they finally did it after about 20 years after I first saw it. They finally put a fire ring on the gasket. Walah the problem fixed. Probibaly the best engine on the market.
I had a Craftsmen with a Kohler engine. It only ran for 20+ years. In fact, the engine outlasted the mower. After I wore out the mowing deck, I used the tractor for years to pull around a small dump trailer. I currently have a Husqvarna with a Kawasaki engine. Completely trouble free for 3 years now. We'll see how long that lasts.
 

Davenj4f

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Have had 3 Ferris mowers with Kawasaki engines in the last 15 years. The last two were EFI. Have never had any issues or problems. I know Husqvarna puts Kawasaki engines on some of their mowers.
 

Vntg-Gearhead

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
I have 9 hours on my Craftsman T2200 with Kohler 5400 19.5 HP. Got it at the end of last season. It's much better than other non professional mowers I looked at. I've not been a fan of Craftsman because they were generic Husky/Poulan/Craftsman. This one is different.

Likes; real frame, easy adjust deck, very sharp turn radius (does not lock up at full turn), easy to steer, comphy & adjustable seat, cuts in reverse (after you push safety button), fast & smooth hydro drive, 42" deck feels light at the height adjust lever, Kohler engine case splits at the top (verses the prone to loosen split at bottom), no gas cap vent to stink up garage (tank vents to intake which I assume has a jet/orifice somewhere), & more but I don't want to brag on it & jinx it.
Cons; muffler is louder than I'd like.
Edit: the fuel tank vents into the plenum (between carb & A/filter)

I will never again buy a Briggs. The last 2 I had failed. Rod broke on one (NOT due to over heat) & balancer babbit failed on the other (1/2 pressure - 1/2 slinger type). Another BS (bull shit) engine, the case loosened. Had to remove engine to Red Lock Tite new bolts in place. As per my small engine guru buddys, these are common BS issues. If I got a free BS engine, I'd use it then throw away at the first warning of an issue. My broken rod had no warning prior to failure.

Automotive pro for 45 years & 40 years of mostly vintage motorcycles (not Harley's, motorcycles), I've completely rebuilt more engines of many brands & sizes than most mechanics. Major repaired many more. Training was ample enough for me to find the cause of failure & to know what a bad design is.
 
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bertsmobile1

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Your first mistake is blaming John Deere. That mower is a licensed product from MTD. It is not a John Deere. True John Deere mowers begin with the X300 series and use Yanmar engines. Very reliable. As for the other mowers you list, you are still dealing with MTD as the manufacturer. The only way I would go with one of those is if it had a Honda engine in it. Otherwise, pay the cost, get a real JD or Cub Cadet. If you don’t, then be prepared for years of misery. For reference, I have a John Deere X300, going on about 18 years now. I have had to replace a couple of pulleys, belts, and such, normal wear and tear items, the engine is still going strong.
We have been down this rabbit hole before and unfortunately you are wrong.
The 100 series is the same design as the AYP ( Husqvarna ) mowers to the point that a lot of mower parts are interchangeable
The JD's are built substantially better .
A long time ago an employee of the factory where they are made posted photos from the factory , inside & outside .
In fact they were making some black mowers as well so the same factory was obviously also making mowers for other brands .

The 100 series are better than their equivalent AYP mowers , but still built down to a price so low end stores can sell something that is green & yellow
 

bertsmobile1

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
This is Rumour Control... These are the facts... :cool:
Yup, for starters, there are so many accurate posts on this thread that I wouldn't know where to start to accurately quote them..
For me, my first experience with a John Deere, was buying one (D-160), from a Big Box Store, when a Landscaping Company was, literally, thrown in my lap. ( Another story for another day).
Having a rip roaring case of O.C.D., I actually read the manual from front to back. Wow!! The manual states that the warrantee, is 2 years, or 120 hours, whichever comes first. Are you 'effin kidding me? If you used it all day, five days a week, that equates to a three week Warrantee!! WTF??
It got more interesting when it came to the Hydro-static trans.. " The drive is sealed, and as such, requires no maintenance.". The drive is a "Tough - Torque" K46.. Now, there's a point to note.. The trans was built to the specs provided by John Deere, who probably saved about a buck, by specifying that there was to be no drain hole in the case. So, at 50 hours, I removed the trans from the tractor, popped off the vent plug, and upended it over a bucket for the night. I then refilled it with Amsoil premium synthetic. The improvement in performance was noticeable. In spite of my O.C.D. scheduled maintenance, it still ate parts on a regular basis. Spindles, despite regular lubrication, self destructed. Etc, Etc.
I got asked why I'd bought that "POS".. My only defence was that I'd relied on the John Deere reputation.. Just because it's green, doesn't mean it's a John Deere.. It's just another cheap POS, sold by your neighbourhood box store.
They're like chainsaws.. when you are at the lowest price point, you get the lowest quality / build that there is. They ( the manufacturers) , just use the name to sell crap products.
The 100 series are RESIDENTIAL mowers so 120 hours or 2 years is about right
Big box store was your first mistake because big box = big profit for the store
They are made by JD & are substantally better than the exact same design ( JD probably pay royalties to AYP ) machines with the AYP brands on them .
Just because you cheaped out on the gear does not mean the gear is trash.
As a foot note I have a couple of the small 225 & 255 ZTRs in my repair run .They were used commercially for 5 years then sold to my customers
Both required substantial repairs to the deck lift but after that was done they have been running fine for the past 5 or so years
 

Vntg-Gearhead

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
I wanted a Ryobi EV riding mower until I read about so many battery issues they are having. My son in-law has a Ryobi push mower. It's weak & won't cut his 1/2 acre even with an extra battery(s). Takes him 2 after work, afternoons to cut his small lawn. I have/had many other types of Ryobi products that have served me well. Seems their EV batteries are of poor quality & fail prematurely. Also expensive as hell.

I studied the EGO zero turn (w/steering wheel) deeply. Satisfied to the point where I was working out the shipping/delivery with the salesman who was in Indiana (I think). All seemed fine until I couldn't find the answer & no one knew the answer to 1 question. "Does the throttle pedal work variably (potentiometer) or is it on/off"? This was something I didn't want to assume. Based on what I read, it sounded like the speed adjustment in the steering wheel controlled what an on/off throttle pedal would do. It seemed that way & nowhere did it say variable. Watched videos closely & couldn't see a slow smooth launch. Located an EGO service dealer 20 miles from me, I called them. "We don't work on mowers". The next nearest service dealer was 100 miles from me, I didn't bother to call them. OK, I called the salesman again, he gave me the number to tech support. I wanted a clear answer before I dropped $7k. Called tech support & got someone in what sounded like in Pakistan. I could not understand the dabba debba whit what. Maybe 1 out of every 5 words I could understand. Call salesman 1 last time. The "deal breaker", I told him was no service support & the biggie was tech support (basically the lack of both). I was not willing to gamble $7000.00 on high tech with no warranty support. If I had any issues, I'd have to fix it myself (self taught learning curve) & pay out of pocket for parts. Shame, it seemed like such a nice mower.
 
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