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Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor

#1

B

buddyd

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD


#2

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD

So you have a little over 1/4 of an acre and are talking about using a riding mower with a steering wheel to mow it. Realize that you will be doing a lot of turning and mowing the same basic pattern week after week with a riding mower on such a small lawn.

I am no fan of John Deere, however, boycotting all John Deere products because of one engine failure at 160 hours seems a bit out of whack. Why did the engine fail? Overheat? Lack of lubrication? Mechanical catastrophic failure?


#3

B

buddyd

That 13K sq ft is a bit much to mow with a push mower, even self-propelled. It is sloped from front to back and at my advanced age...
A lawn tractor is a nice luxury for me.I change up the mowing patterns so no ruts, etc. The failure on the JD was a failed connector rod which is probably more related to the eng. manuf. B&S, thus my search is excluding those motors if possible.
I've done my research, mine is not an isolated incident with JD machines. Additionally, I have had a Craftsmen snow thrower for 25+ years and never a problem. The Craftsman moves frozen water, the lawn tractor small blades of grass. Though hours per year are significantly less with the snow thrower, it's appalling to spend $1800 on a lawn mower and get 4 seasons of use out of it.


#4

StarTech

StarTech

According to JD Parts the E110 came with the Briggs 33R series engine. These are known for two problems. One is camshaft ACR failures. And the other is for blowing the head gasket. It is the blowing of the head gasket and the user not keeping the crankcase oil fill at all times that leads to the piston rod breaking and going the side of the crankcase. If the operator/owner had just pay attention to the warning signs this would never advance to the point of complete engine failure..

As I said it is a known problem that is easily diagnosed and repaired if only the operator/owner heeded the warning signs of excessive oil usage.


#5

H

hlw49

Both of the failures are due to a poorly designed engine. Nothing to support the end of the compression relief and too much space between the spacing of the head bolts in the valve train area. Though I see more cam failures than head gaskets. Still a bad design. Can't say too much for the Kohler Command engines they use to blow head gaskets as well. Not due to the fault of a poorly designed engine it was a poorly designed head gasket. First time I ever saw one on the Kohler I said it needs a fire ring on the gasket to fix the problem. Guess what they finally did it after about 20 years after I first saw it. They finally put a fire ring on the gasket. Walah the problem fixed. Probibaly the best engine on the market.


#6

M

MowerNick

Almost all single cylinders have issues do to them mostly being made in china. I see less issues with both briggs and kohler twins but i usually recommend a kawasaki.


#7

StarTech

StarTech

And it not only Briggs and Kohlers that blows head gaskets. Neither of those I seen in the last two years but I have seen several Kawasaki v-twins with blown head gaskets.

Matter of fact I got a FX751 in the shop right now with #2 head gasket blown. If count last year this make the 10th gasket to be replaced. Only one Briggs and no Kohler in the same amount of time.


#8

H

hlw49

I don't see blown head gaskets on the Kawasakis or Kohler singles. Kawasaki has a valve train problem. Only see it on the older Kohler twins now.


#9

B

buddyd

According to JD Parts the E110 came with the Briggs 33R series engine. These are known for two problems. One is camshaft ACR failures. And the other is for blowing the head gasket. It is the blowing of the head gasket and the user not keeping the crankcase oil fill at all times that leads to the piston rod breaking and going the side of the crankcase. If the operator/owner had just pay attention to the warning signs this would never advance to the point of complete engine failure..

As I said it is a known problem that is easily diagnosed and repaired if only the operator/owner heeded the warning signs of excessive oil usage.
Head gasket was never a problem with my machine. The oil level was checked every time and I NEVER saw oil leakage or low oil level.
To your point, my lack of small engine knowledge may have bit me in the ass this time. Turning the flywheel (?) at the end of the first year became very difficult. My assumption was, battery or perhaps starter (replaced both). Turns out, JD junk. And the dealership shrugged their shoulders. F em


#10

H

hlw49

Kohler Command is the best single engine on the market. Too bad they quit making them. They just don't tear up. Biggest problem is carb issues and most of that is due to sitting with fuel in them too long gumming up the carb.


#11

StarTech

StarTech

Head gasket was never a problem with my machine. The oil level was checked every time and I NEVER saw oil leakage or low oil level.
To your point, my lack of small engine knowledge may have bit me in the ass this time. Turning the flywheel (?) at the end of the first year became very difficult. My assumption was, battery or perhaps starter (replaced both). Turns out, JD junk. And the dealership shrugged their shoulders. F em
Broke ACR on the camshaft was the most likely problem and that JD just didn't know their stuff. Like one here that told a customer his engine didn't have an oil pump when it had an oil filter. All they had to do was look-up the engine's IPL and they would had know it had one. All it was a loose wire one the oil pressure switch.

My customer just quit letting the local dealer even touch his under warranty equipment.


#12

H

hlw49

Take your pick there only two manufactures making lawn tractors now. Husqvarna and MTD now Black and Decker Stanley. They own MTD, Cub Cadet, and Excel that makes Hustler and use to make Big Dog until they bought them out. Base models Run over 2K.


#13

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Take your pick there only two manufactures making lawn tractors now. Husqvarna and MTD now Black and Decker Stanley. They own MTD, Cub Cadet, and Excel that makes Hustler and use to make Big Dog until they bought them out. Base models Run over 2K.
Very seldom do I see a broken connecting rod in any small engine, whether it is a Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, or Kawasaki. When I do, it is usually do to overheating, or lack of lubrication.
A self-propelled mower is suited for 1/4 acre yards. I do understand as people get older it is sometimes better or necessary to have a riding mower.
Just bear in mind that any riding mower around $2000-$3000 at the low end big box store brand will be very similar in quality and engine choice. Keep the air filter clean and change/check oil regularly.


#14

S

SeniorCitizen

Don't discount JD to quick . I had a dealer i felt the same about .
Look for a low hour X350 in the 2,800 to 3,000 price range . There out there if we have the patients and not quick to purchase . This is the time of year to buy .

Vary little turning is required if you mow as i do the 1/2 acre because i don't need a pristine golf course lawn . The 350 will mow in reverse just as fast as in forward , very little turning other than the 1st 3 or 4 rounds .


#15

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Don't discount JD to quick . I had a dealer i felt the same about .
Look for a low hour X350 in the 2,800 to 3,000 price range . There out there if we have the patients and not quick to purchase . This is the time of year to buy .

Vary little turning is required if you mow as i do the 1/2 acre because i don't need a pristine golf course lawn . The 350 will mow in reverse just as fast as in forward , very little turning other than the 1st 3 or 4 rounds .


Please be aware that I am talking brand new, low end, residential, big box store riding mowers.

Obviously, a John Deere X series riding mower does not fit this because it is more like $5000 plus new. John Deere has done an amazing job of marketing and branding their name. Quality wise, parts and shop labor rates, and ease of working on them, not so amazing. In other words, John Deere costs more to buy, maintain, don’t hold up any better, and are a pain in the butt to work on often. Obviously, I am not a fan of John Deere. This is coming from hands on experience. Up to 25% of the riding mowers I service are John Deere in my area, so despite not always liking servicing them, it becomes necessary. Our local John Deere dealer is almost $200/ hour on labor. Please tell me how that cost premium is even remotely justified versus the other shops.


#16

bkeller500

bkeller500

Now that Simplicity is stopping production that leaves us with Cub, MTD, JD, Husqvarna & Kubota tractors. In the $3K range I would most likely lean toward JD but not because of the motor but because of the rest of the machine and the mowing deck. $3K spread out over 4 seasons is $750 per season or $18.75 per hour base on your 160 hours. Anything beyond 160 hours is a bonus. Look at your neighbors. What are they using and which ones had to replace their cheap mowers more often vs the ones that seem to have had more stability. Look at the final cut. Which ones gives the best looking cut. To me the best looking cut is higher on my list of demands than the color of the mower or the engine brand. Finding a low hour unit that was traded in might give you the best of both worlds.


#17

M

mcspeed

Get a zero turn. A traditional lawn tractor is 4-5x more wear and tear on you and the lawn. I suggest a mower shop over a big box store. BBS are focused on cheap. A mower shop may cost more but you get more if you do your homework.


#18

old yooper

old yooper

If you are willing to do your own maintenance on a mower, try looking for a used Snapper rider which were seemingly designed by someone that actually worked on a mower. Keep checking your local mower shops that take trade ins, Craigs List too. (whatever you buy, new or used, please buy it from someone / dealer that actually works on what they sell, no big box stores) In my profile picture I am fiddling with my old Snapper that I bought it over 10 years ago when it was almost worn out and it still is almost worn out.
I just checked your post agin and read where you wanted a lawn tractor, not a lawn mower. As for lawn tractors, most of the time there are lots more things to check out with a used lawn tractor and many were designed by engineers that were trying to make it easy to build not to do any maintenance on them, I would buy buy a lawn tractor ( new or used) from a local dealer that is willing to offer a warranty on one, new or used. At least a warranty that is long enough to last one season.
One of my local dealers had weed wackers on a very good sale last fall and offered a six month warranty which would have run out by spring. (I am not doing much wacking done in the snow)


#19

A

Aquadisiac

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
I truly believe that a person wanting a quality mower should never buy one from a "big-box" store like Lowe's or Home Depot. To get a much higher quality machine, you must purchase one from a dealership. I know you said you don't want another John Deere, but if you go to their dealership and compare their machines to the ones at your favorite big box store, it won't take you long to see the difference in the machines. I had several problems with my first riding mower or garden tractor that I bought locally from a big box store. It was a learning experience that I just had write off. Oil leaks, No start issues, electrical problems, and so on. That was over 30 years ago. I went to a nearby John Deere dealer and bought a higher end model than the other places carried. I mowed our half acre with it for 16 years and sold it for just about half of what I paid for it. The only reason I sold it was to buy a Zero Turn Mower, which I am still using to this day!! It is older now but still looks and runs like brand new!! I recommend that you find one with a Kawasaki engine on it or a Kohler engine on it!! You shouldn't have any trouble then!!
Good luck on your searches!!


#20

MyGrassHasCrabs

MyGrassHasCrabs

Spring 2001, three acres of grass growing fast, and my incredibly old MTD rear engine Briggs mower crapped out for good. I can't remember what the problem was, but I couldn't fix it or wait weeks for it to get fixed, so I hopped in the truck & bought the first thing I ran across at Home Depot - a JD Scotts L1742 with a 17 HP B&S engine. Here it is 23 years later and it's still running strong. I had a head gasket blow & I replaced that, and a slight problem with an electrical supply to the fuel solenoid, and a couple of easily repaired body issues. I'm not a big JD fan either, particularly in recent years, but it's hard to argue with 23 years of service. I also picked up a used LA-105 (19 hp John Deere engine (B&S?) a few years back for mulching the yard during grass season, but the L1742 is still used for towing stuff and to pick up leaves in the fall.

The point is that it may be luck of the draw, but my experience with JD has been good so far (knock on wood).

Keeping the oil changed and doing regular maintenance seems to do the trick for me. That's all I do for my 1984 Mazda B2000 pickup and my 1991 Honda Accord too, each with the same engines and both running like new. (Bet I've jinxed myself now...)


#21

M

MainelyMower

I have a Kawasaki Twin on a approx 15 year old JD Lawn Tractor. It's been rock solid. Other than batteries, only repair was a solenoid.


#22

G

Gord Baker

For the amount of money you want to spend and avoiding the most popular brands I recommend you get a lawn service to cut your lawn.


#23

M

mcspeed

Spring 2001, three acres of grass growing fast, and my incredibly old MTD rear engine Briggs mower crapped out for good. I can't remember what the problem was, but I couldn't fix it or wait weeks for it to get fixed, so I hopped in the truck & bought the first thing I ran across at Home Depot - a JD Scotts L1742 with a 17 HP B&S engine. Here it is 23 years later and it's still running strong. I had a head gasket blow & I replaced that, and a slight problem with an electrical supply to the fuel solenoid, and a couple of easily repaired body issues. I'm not a big JD fan either, particularly in recent years, but it's hard to argue with 23 years of service. I also picked up a used LA-105 (19 hp John Deere engine (B&S?) a few years back for mulching the yard during grass season, but the L1742 is still used for towing stuff and to pick up leaves in the fall.

The point is that it may be luck of the draw, but my experience with JD has been good so far (knock on wood).

Keeping the oil changed and doing regular maintenance seems to do the trick for me. That's all I do for my 1984 Mazda B2000 pickup and my 1991 Honda Accord too, each with the same engines and both running like new. (Bet I've jinxed myself now...)
The JD you bought at a big box store over 20 years ago is a different species than the crap they sell today.

The focus on branding and marketing has paid off for JD but the end user has not benefited. I think it’s going to catch up with them. I wouldn’t consider a JD today. Their stuff I bought 30+ years ago was excellent! Still have a JD chain saw pushing 40 years! ( yes I know it was made by another company)


#24

K

kemerich

We have had great luck with the Cub Cadet Lawn tractors. They offer a XT1 and then a better XT2 models. Just make sure you buy it from a Local Dealer for that after the sale support. Cub Cadet Link: https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/riding-lawn-mowers/lawn-and-garden-tractors


#25

MyGrassHasCrabs

MyGrassHasCrabs

The JD you bought at a big box store over 20 years ago is a different species than the crap they sell today.

The focus on branding and marketing has paid off for JD but the end user has not benefited. I think it’s going to catch up with them. I wouldn’t consider a JD today. Their stuff I bought 30+ years ago was excellent! Still have a JD chain saw pushing 40 years! ( yes I know it was made by another company)

That's a good point; if I were to purchase another one these days, I would not buy anything from a big-box store for the very reason you state - not the same beast. I would (however) consider a JD from a dealership - x series, etc. or maybe a sub-compact Kubota. I've been jonesing for a sub-compact for a bunch of years now. I'm 66 years old, so I'd better do it if I'm going to. On the other hand, I get a certain satisfaction from keeping my old stuff running well, so there's that.

Finding the right brand to purchase these days is a challenge, that's what prompted me to read this thread. To the OP - I'd be interested in knowing what your choice is once you decide if you don't mind posting it here.


#26

D

Davenj4f

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Don't know if you're considering a commercial mower, which will last you a lifetime, but I have three Ferris mowers with Kawasaki engines. Horses.


#27

H

hlw49

The JD Scotts mower was probably built by Murray.


#28

L

LawnWizard

Please be aware that I am talking brand new, low end, residential, big box store riding mowers.

Obviously, a John Deere X series riding mower does not fit this because it is more like $5000 plus new. John Deere has done an amazing job of marketing and branding their name. Quality wise, parts and shop labor rates, and ease of working on them, not so amazing. In other words, John Deere costs more to buy, maintain, don’t hold up any better, and are a pain in the butt to work on often. Obviously, I am not a fan of John Deere. This is coming from hands on experience. Up to 25% of the riding mowers I service are John Deere in my area, so despite not always liking servicing them, it becomes necessary. Our local John Deere dealer is almost $200/ hour on labor. Please tell me how that cost premium is even remotely justified versus the other shops.
As in using the same Denso starter as any other Kaw engine EXCEPT the JD had a smaller nose cone to fit into the housing that JD has Kaw design exclusively for them. Reg Denso starter $200. Same starter with the JD nose cone $349! BTW, the nose cone is easily swappable from the bad starter to the new one!


#29

K

kinard

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
If Snapper still uses kawasaki engines, you might want to consider one. Small engine repair guys tell me that are the best.


#30

J

jrsavoie

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Curious as to why you want a garden tractor style mower instead of a front deck or zero turn?

If you have use for a garden tractor, such as attachments, I would get an older dependable machine.

We sold our 1980 John Deere 400 a couple years ago and have regretted it ever since.


#31

M

max_satoh

Curious as to why you want a garden tractor style mower instead of a front deck or zero turn?

If you have use for a garden tractor, such as attachments, I would get an older dependable machine.

We sold our 1980 John Deere 400 a couple years ago and have regretted it ever since.
Older machines were better built, absolutely agree.


#32

D

Denali94

That 13K sq ft is a bit much to mow with a push mower, even self-propelled. It is sloped from front to back and at my advanced age...
A lawn tractor is a nice luxury for me.I change up the mowing patterns so no ruts, etc. The failure on the JD was a failed connector rod which is probably more related to the eng. manuf. B&S, thus my search is excluding those motors if possible.
I've done my research, mine is not an isolated incident with JD machines. Additionally, I have had a Craftsmen snow thrower for 25+ years and never a problem. The Craftsman moves frozen water, the lawn tractor small blades of grass. Though hours per year are significantly less with the snow thrower, it's appalling to spend $1800 on a lawn mower and get 4 seasons of use out of it.

If 13,000 sf is a bit too much to mow with a push mower, I had better get my 72 year old wife a wheelchair. She mows more than that around the farmstead with a push mower every week and has for over 30 years. She finally agreed to a self propelled model a few years ago. She says it keeps her 'farm girl tough'! And at 5'-3" and 110 pounds she still out works most men.

As for your issues with John Deere, get over it. This farm has seen nothing but green for over 75 years. Even had one of those Greenville mowers (LA120) but gave it to a neighbor as it was too small for our needs. Still running great, original motor and trans. Had a 425 for years that I wish we still had. The X738 is nice but just not the same.


#33

M

max_satoh

Want to keep costs down and make it easy? The new electrics for a small yard. Serious.
Store batteries at half charge when not in use, especially long term. Storing a flat lithium battery kills the capacity.
No busted con rods, no bad gaskets, no oil changes.

I do residential, rural and commercial mowing. I love engines, but I do understand the pros and cons of electric vs power. I generally prefer traditional tractor to zero turn, but most commercial properties have so much random landscaping zero turn is best. I prefer my ag tractors to skid steers for most things I do also.
I'm using electric blowers and trimers for regular work and pull out the big loud powerful gas stuff for fall clean up.

Check out the ryobi at home depot. That brand is peaking for quality of design vs cost. test drive the front steer vs their zero turn to see what feels more comfortable to drive.


#34

M

max_satoh

Get a zero turn. A traditional lawn tractor is 4-5x more wear and tear on you and the lawn. I suggest a mower shop over a big box store. BBS are focused on cheap. A mower shop may cost more but you get more if you do your homework.
Not sure where you get 4-5 times more wear on the lawn. My experience shows zero turns can be harder on lawns, but it's down to the driver far more than the machine.


#35

J

jrsavoie

If 13,000 sf is a bit too much to mow with a push mower, I had better get my 72 year old wife a wheelchair. She mows more than that around the farmstead with a push mower every week and has for over 30 years. She finally agreed to a self propelled model a few years ago. She says it keeps her 'farm girl tough'! And at 5'-3" and 110 pounds she still out works most men.

As for your issues with John Deere, get over it. This farm has seen nothing but green for over 75 years. Even had one of those Greenville mowers (LA120) but gave it to a neighbor as it was too small for our needs. Still running great, original motor and trans. Had a 425 for years that I wish we still had. The X738 is nice but just not the same.
Wish I was farm girl tough


#36

F

Forest#2

That 33 series Briggs was a lemon from the start.
Experience is what you get when what you bought is not what you wanted.

If you turn wrenches you can replace that engine if the deck etc, still has good life, not rusted out, etc.

Sometimes zero turn mowers and slopes you mention are not a good thing.
Go visit a mower shop, not a big box store and see what they have. Get advice from a person that repairs mowers at the mower shop.

Them big box stores have poor quality mowers and the MAJORITY of the employees working at the store are not reliable for asking for advice on anything. They usually have to use their cell phone to find their way home and are like geese, they wake up in a new world every day.


#37

B

ba63

Older machines were better built, absolutely agree.
I was in that situation back in 2020. I had a 2006 Snapper rear engine rider. In my part of the country, we have trees that grow their roots near the top of the ground and the fixed deck on the Snapper (although an otherwise great machine and in great condition) just couldn’t make it over those roots anymore, so I was faced with finding a larger machine with a “floating deck”. After looking over the selection at the “box” stores and my local small engine dealer, I was very disappointed with what was being offered. Mostly high end machines with features I didn’t want to pay up for, lots of cheaply made hydrostatic transmissions with poor reviews or MTD “faux” automatics that I really didn’t like the sound of. And those prices! How and why do people pay that much? I wanted a rather basic yet sturdy machine with a manual gearbox, simple mechanic controls, and a larger/high quality/long lasting engine. In other words; a machine that isn’t being built anymore! In the end, I bought two late 1990s/early 2000s very broken model LT1000 with the plan of making one out of the two in January and by the beginning of the mowing season, I had a “like new” LT 1000 with a 5 speed transmission and a Kohler Pro (rebadged Command) 19 hp. It was just what I wanted but couldn’t buy as a new mower! I couldn’t be more pleased with how it mows or runs; plus, I was able to sell the Snapper which cover what I’d spent on the two LTs and the new parts. Not counting my time (which I considered a winter hobby project), I came away with exactly the machine I wanted … for free! I had never been much on Craftsman mowers but I realized that if you‘r looking at them second hand, and you put in the effort to research and see who actually made the machines your looking at (since everything at Sears was rebadged to store brands by other manufacturer) you can quickly weed out the good from the bad. Not saying that building your own machine is for everyone, but I definitely agree that the machines from 20-30 years ago were simpler, tougher, and built to last far better than the Chinese equiped machines that are on the market today.


#38

G

GrumpyCat

If you are willing to do your own maintenance on a mower, try looking for a used Snapper rider which were seemingly designed by someone that actually worked on a mower.
Yes, the Snapper rear engine rider is a classic. The tube frame model, not the updated stamped steel chassis from Snapper's B&S ownership.


#39

G

GrumpyCat

Want to keep costs down and make it easy? The new electrics for a small yard. Serious.
Store batteries at half charge when not in use, especially long term. Storing a flat lithium battery kills the capacity.
No busted con rods, no bad gaskets, no oil changes.

I do residential, rural and commercial mowing. I love engines, but I do understand the pros and cons of electric vs power. I generally prefer traditional tractor to zero turn, but most commercial properties have so much random landscaping zero turn is best. I prefer my ag tractors to skid steers for most things I do also.
I'm using electric blowers and trimers for regular work and pull out the big loud powerful gas stuff for fall clean up.

Check out the ryobi at home depot. That brand is peaking for quality of design vs cost. test drive the front steer vs their zero turn to see what feels more comfortable to drive.
I would suggest EGo over Ryobi. Ryobi electrics appear to be rebranded Greenworks.

EGo uses one battery mount for everything, string trimmers, chainsaws, push mowers, and zero turn riders.

If unused for 30 days an EGo battery will magically self-discharge to 50% (on purpose) to protect itself in storage.

Jury is still out on longevity of modern plastic EV mowers.


#40

G

GregBuchan

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Don’t get a (Craftsman rebranded) Husqvarna! Their rear axle seals fall out routinely and the grease comes out of the rear axle and there is no way to degrease it (no fitting) or replace the seal (non replaceable). Their only solution was to replace the entire transmission!


#41

B

Bama66

I truly believe that a person wanting a quality mower should never buy one from a "big-box" store like Lowe's or Home Depot. To get a much higher quality machine, you must purchase one from a dealership. I know you said you don't want another John Deere, but if you go to their dealership and compare their machines to the ones at your favorite big box store, it won't take you long to see the difference in the machines. I had several problems with my first riding mower or garden tractor that I bought locally from a big box store. It was a learning experience that I just had write off. Oil leaks, No start issues, electrical problems, and so on. That was over 30 years ago. I went to a nearby John Deere dealer and bought a higher end model than the other places carried. I mowed our half acre with it for 16 years and sold it for just about half of what I paid for it. The only reason I sold it was to buy a Zero Turn Mower, which I am still using to this day!! It is older now but still looks and runs like brand new!! I recommend that you find one with a Kawasaki engine on it or a Kohler engine on it!! You shouldn't have any trouble then!!
Good luck on your searches!!
I bought a John Deere F725 front deck mower (they don’t make any more). It is over 20 years old. I do all the maintenance myself including oil changes, filter changes,belt changes, transmission oil changes, deck leveling,etc. It has a Kawasaki engine with no problems so far and I mow 1.50 acres. I bought it from a John Deere dealer and also it’s a mulching mower. I think when I have to replace it, I’ll buy another JD for sure!


#42

V

Vic bellan

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Look at Walker , made in USA, great quality & worth the $


#43

D

DinosaurMike

I did not read all the posts, but make sure you look at turning radius for all of the riders/tractors you consider. I went from a Toro rider with a turning radius of a pickup truck to a TroyBilt tractor with the turning radius of a sports car. It made a big difference in mowing patterns. My TroyBilt is 20 years old and I would not make a recommendation based on the age of it as I hope there have been design changes for the better.
I wish you many good years of mowing with your choice.


#44

U

ukrkoz

What's wrong with g'ol Briggs? I had Craftsman rider with it, bought in 2005, thing was indestructible. Sold it 2 years back without any issues.


#45

W

wolfen

Kohler Command is the best single engine on the market. Too bad they quit making them. They just don't tear up. Biggest problem is carb issues and most of that is due to sitting with fuel in them too long gumming up the carb.
I had a Kohler Commander that was a piece of junk twin cylinder and BOTH cam houseings cracked

I recomend a JOHN DEERE riding mower, I have a X330 for alomst an acre and its a total complete beast


#46

D

davis2

We have had great luck with the Cub Cadet Lawn tractors. They offer a XT1 and then a better XT2 models. Just make sure you buy it from a Local Dealer for that after the sale support. Cub Cadet Link: https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/riding-lawn-mowers/lawn-and-garden-tractors
I have a 1980's Cub Cadet 782. I'd recommend the OP find an older tractor like mine, and it will last if cared for.


#47

D

davis2

I have a Sabre 1742 as a backup, but it breaks more than my cub.


#48

R

RayMcD

What's wrong with g'ol Briggs? I had Craftsman rider with it, bought in 2005, thing was indestructible. Sold it 2 years back without any issues.
Nothing wrong with the old i/c briggs, it's the new stuff that is absolutely junk out of the box...


#49

J

Jack3q

I use a Kubota with a Kawasaki engine. Going on 30 years with regular maintenance and general repairs.


#50

T

TobyU

That 13K sq ft is a bit much to mow with a push mower, even self-propelled. It is sloped from front to back and at my advanced age...
A lawn tractor is a nice luxury for me.I change up the mowing patterns so no ruts, etc. The failure on the JD was a failed connector rod which is probably more related to the eng. manuf. B&S, thus my search is excluding those motors if possible.
I've done my research, mine is not an isolated incident with JD machines. Additionally, I have had a Craftsmen snow thrower for 25+ years and never a problem. The Craftsman moves frozen water, the lawn tractor small blades of grass. Though hours per year are significantly less with the snow thrower, it's appalling to spend $1800 on a lawn mower and get 4 seasons of use out of it.
The only remotely typical way these engines snap rods are if they are low on oil.
They have plenty of other issues but none catastrophic like a snapped connecting rod and the associated crankshaft scoring.
SAE 30 conventional oil is the thing to use and keep it on or even slightly above the full mark.
Not a common failure though.
However many of these are deemed "blown" or not worth fixing due to the other common probs and due to shops charging way too much for the repair.


#51

T

TobyU

Head gasket was never a problem with my machine. The oil level was checked every time and I NEVER saw oil leakage or low oil level.
To your point, my lack of small engine knowledge may have bit me in the ass this time. Turning the flywheel (?) at the end of the first year became very difficult. My assumption was, battery or perhaps starter (replaced both). Turns out, JD junk. And the dealership shrugged their shoulders. F em
There will always be an occasional outlier in the statistics but snapped rods with oil level above the add mark are not a common occurrence.
You had a single so you prob had a 42 inch deck.
I prefer the singles to the twins as you can get a twin on some 42s but as you go larger deck size eventually you will only get a twin. Twins have more things to go wrong -and they do!

The Kohler "courage" single is fine after 2008 and the MTD and other Chinese/ Loncin are working out well too.
They have far fewer probs than the Briggs do.
You won't find many Kawasaki singles and the twins - I'd rather have a Kohler 7000 series or whatever they are calling it this year! 😆
Valve train issues with Kawasaki that should not happen. That's a low quality, haphazard assembly thing like Briggs.....


#52

K

KMG

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
I hope you will look into and consider a John Deere E 180 which Jas a Koehler engine. I have this model, bought it new at Lowe's 6 years ago for 2,399.00 and it has been the most trouble free tractor I have ever owned. I mow 1 and 1/2 acres with it, hilly and bumpy yard and it is a beast! It also has the 30 second oil change option on it and changing the oil is a dream. It has a garden hose port on the deck so you can clean under the mowing deck in just a few minutes, keeping the deck clean and maintenance free. It has been worth every penny.


#53

H

hlw49

I had a Kohler Commander that was a piece of junk twin cylinder and BOTH cam houseings cracked

I recomend a JOHN DEERE riding mower, I have a X330 for alomst an acre and its a total complete beast
Kohler command twin with 2 cam housings? Never saw a Command twin with 2 cams. Only twin cam Kohler was the single Courage. It had an issue with cracking the block where the cylinder met the block because the top plate bolts worked loose. You might have had a twin Cam single cylinder Courage. I have had Kohler warranty those things 5 years out. Got to the point when I serviced one would tighten the top plate bolts which seem to take care of the issue.


#54

T

TobyU

I hope you will look into and consider a John Deere E 180 which Jas a Koehler engine. I have this model, bought it new at Lowe's 6 years ago for 2,399.00 and it has been the most trouble free tractor I have ever owned. I mow 1 and 1/2 acres with it, hilly and bumpy yard and it is a beast! It also has the 30 second oil change option on it and changing the oil is a dream. It has a garden hose port on the deck so you can clean under the mowing deck in just a few minutes, keeping the deck clean and maintenance free. It has been worth every penny.
I'm sorry but you are falling for the absolute ludicrous marketing of these machines.
That wash Port is used on mini machines, even standard small push mowers and you should never have a garden hose near your equipment!
That is the general rule of thumb. There are a few specific times, kind of like two where it's okay but other than that the homeowner should keep the water hose far away from their machine.
That deck has at least two spindles, if it's a 42, and each spindle has an upper and lower bearing with only a very small rubber lip grease seal keeping out moisture. Then you have at least two idler pulleys which also have one bearing in them typically with a seal on each side.
It is not beneficial to any of those parts to splash them, spray them, or bathe them in water from either side.
It's even worse for people who decide to use a pressure washer to blast off the dirt and make the machine look closer to new.
The only thing that should be used is air whether it be from a leaf blower or compressed air from like a blow gun and of course you can wipe things off with rags too..
Now on that terrible fake feature of oil change in the filter.
If you'll do a quick bit of research you will find that only a smaller portion of your oil is even changed, something like 40% or something but it's nowhere near a complete oil change and you're never getting the crap in the crud that settles to the bottom that could possibly be taken out and even if you do it the better way of running it for a few minutes before you drain it, you're still leaving lot of it in there because it's still in suspension on the oil that you won't be removing.
You will also find that many people and dealers started buying the conversion kit right after this came out so they can convert it back to the proper and better way of changing the oil by draining it all.
This was nowhere near and improvement for the engine or beneficial to the engine or its longevity at all!
It was 100% so John Deere could sell and overpriced oil filter with some overpriced oil in it and convince people to buy it and pay the extra price for the convenience and a false piece of mind from changing their oil which they're actually changing part of their oil.
Don't know why it's such a big deal to people because most of these machines have a quick drain anyways with a spot to put a hose on to it and some of the newer ones actually have the hose already there up to the top so those are even easier to drain and the filter is very easy to remove once you loosen it with a 7 or $8 oil filter wrench what you can keep forever.
Use two little paper towels and you won't have any mess and you will change about 98 plus percent of your oil.
It's already easy since it's a spin on filter and if you don't buy the overpriced ones from John Deere (which many of us will never understand why people do just for their extra piece of mind etc).
I can change the oil on one of these riders with a new filter or even a new longer filter 51348 is the part number for the briggs, kohler, and the Chinese ones... For under $10. Sometimes only 8:50.
Compare that to the price of the all-in-one oil and filter and the real problem that you're not even changing half the oil.
It's a crazy design that should have never existed.

Also, while you seem to be a John Deere supporter , I don't think you'll get him to buy another John Deere machine.
He specifically said not those because he's so upset with his terrible experience from his current John Deere product.


#55

T

TobyU

Kohler command twin with 2 cam housings? Never saw a Command twin with 2 cams. Only twin cam Kohler was the single Courage. It had an issue with cracking the block where the cylinder met the block because the top plate bolts worked loose. You might have had a twin Cam single cylinder Courage. I have had Kohler warranty those things 5 years out. Got to the point when I serviced one would tighten the top plate bolts which seem to take care of the issue.
I was thoroughly tracking these for a number of years and it seems that all the ones up until around 2003 have already blown up. LOL
It was all about those front five bolts and the potential to be loose. Especially this ones in the front left when you're looking at it from the valve cover. They would work up and the fly who would smack them and it would crack the block in the same spot every time.
If you caught them early enough you could remove the front five bolts clean out the holes with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and use some loctite or put a lock washer on top of them and tighten them to specs and never have another problem.
It's actually a quite good design of the engine even a better design with the inverted sump or what we call super bowl but poor execution of actually putting them together.
Now I don't believe the twin cam design is better because that was just unnecessary.

I found that you should check any of them up until 2006 but I've only seen a very few of them affected in 2006 with loose bolts. I might have seen one 2007 but that's it. Nothing after that including 99% of the 2007 I checked and nothing 2008 or above was ever loose so they finally got the situation figured out.


#56

H

hlw49

Yes it was a problem they also has a cam issue the compression release stop on the cam would wear off over time and make the compression rease not work. It would kick back and make an awful noise. once they fixed all that they had a counter balance problem. I have seen them break, knock the back out of the engine and still run. Have seen the whole cylinder break off the rest of the engine and still run with the cylinder moving back and forth. When they got all the issues fixed they would run forever.


#57

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Yes it was a problem they also has a cam issue the compression release stop on the cam would wear off over time and make the compression rease not work. It would kick back and make an awful noise. once they fixed all that they had a counter balance problem. I have seen them break, knock the back out of the engine and still run. Have seen the whole cylinder break off the rest of the engine and still run with the cylinder moving back and forth. When they got all the issues fixed they would run forever.


This has turned into a long thread, which is fine. So to summarize this is what I would say.

When you are talking low end residential riding mowers $2000-$3500, they are all pretty close on features, reliability, build quality, etc. So if you have a certain brand loyalty or personal experience with a brand and do some research, it is not going to make a significant difference in what brand you buy.

The Kohler engine in general is a great engine (especially the Command). The only engine there have been significant problems with is the Kohler Courage (especially the single cylinder). You can go online a do more reading for specific issues.

The EZ oil filter change on select John Deere riders is a total gimmick and does not do a good job of correctly filtering the engine, along with additional costs for buying the John Deere oil filter.

If you want to pressure wash your mower once every two or three years you will be fine. Obviously avoid direct spray at electrical connections.

I have used inexpensive belts from online, inexpensive purchased locally, and pricey OEM belts for customer Equipment. I have had one belt almost immediately break of all these different belts I have replaced over several years. The only thing I will stress is to stick with OEM belts on John Deere riders and zero turns. These belts have a slightly different angle and size that means the difference between the belt holding up vs breaking too early.
Hope this helps.


#58

Sean OM

Sean OM

All lawn tractors are crap. You need to get into lawn and garden tractors before they kind of start not becoming crap.

Honestly for a lawn that size, you are better off with an electric. Then you don't have to worry about the oil or what engine you get. And since you only mow lawn, the autonomous robotic mowers have dropped significantly in price, and you should be able to do several patterns with them.


#59

T

TobyU

This has turned into a long thread, which is fine. So to summarize this is what I would say.

When you are talking low end residential riding mowers $2000-$3500, they are all pretty close on features, reliability, build quality, etc. So if you have a certain brand loyalty or personal experience with a brand and do some research, it is not going to make a significant difference in what brand you buy.

The Kohler engine in general is a great engine (especially the Command). The only engine there have been significant problems with is the Kohler Courage (especially the single cylinder). You can go online a do more reading for specific issues.

The EZ oil filter change on select John Deere riders is a total gimmick and does not do a good job of correctly filtering the engine, along with additional costs for buying the John Deere oil filter.

If you want to pressure wash your mower once every two or three years you will be fine. Obviously avoid direct spray at electrical connections.

I have used inexpensive belts from online, inexpensive purchased locally, and pricey OEM belts for customer Equipment. I have had one belt almost immediately break of all these different belts I have replaced over several years. The only thing I will stress is to stick with OEM belts on John Deere riders and zero turns. These belts have a slightly different angle and size that means the difference between the belt holding up vs breaking too early.
Hope this helps.
It seems we agree on many points.
Doesn't matter much what brand you buy as all the mowers today are just a combination of their parts which are made by somebody else - at least the important parts and that's the transmission and the engine.
Unless they're buying used they're not going to get a command engine because all the single cylinder Kohler's are the courage style but luckily those problems have all been fixed since around 2008.
The John Deere easy oil change thing is complete crap like you said. Luckily, it's only a few bucks to buy the parts to turn it back into the proper oil change setup and that's what everyone who owns one of these should do!
I can't agree on getting water near most mowers but then again I live in a fairly human climate so when you wet something down it tends to stay wet longer than it would out west somewhere where it's dry in 20 minutes.
At least keep the spray direction away from the pulleys, spindles and bearings on the deck.
Stick with OEM belts and you'll be far better off and you'll make the few extra dollars you spend back up in the extra time that the belt will last on the mower.

Brand loyalty is mostly just fooling yourself on this type of equipment.

And the number one thing!! None of these entry level lawn tractors should cost anywhere near $2,000 to $3,500!.
Some of them are now but that's only because they've raised the price $800 to $1,000 in the past two years.

You could get a Troy-Bilt pony on sale or at The season's lowest price for $998 under 3 years ago.
Just two years ago you could get one for 1149.
You could get the Cub cadet for $1599 to 1799.
Now it's between 2200 and 2800 for most of the popular 42-in mowers.
It's a real shame.
There's no way I would buy any of that stuff new at those prices.
I would go buy me a three or four year old or whatever but good condition and not very used looking one from someone else who is upgrading to a zero turn etc because these are typically under $700 and sometimes closer to half that.


#60

R

RayMcD

All lawn tractors are crap. You need to get into lawn and garden tractors before they kind of start not becoming crap.

Honestly for a lawn that size, you are better off with an electric. Then you don't have to worry about the oil or what engine you get. And since you only mow lawn, the autonomous robotic mowers have dropped significantly in price, and you should be able to do several patterns with them.
Preach on Buddy, you can take your electric lawn mower and toss it in the drink,,,, Cheers, Ray


#61

T

TobyU

Preach on Buddy, you can take your electric lawn mower and toss it in the drink,,,, Cheers, Ray
Exactly! One of these days they might improve them or at least the battery situation to where they wouldn't be such a sacrifice but for now, for most consumers, there are far too many sacrifices to switch over to a battery powered mower.
I'm just not willing to change to a new way of doing things or a substitute until the replacement item does everything the original did just as well if not better.
It also is needs to be cheaper or I don't see a point.


#62

D

DinosaurMike

There will not be any choice as states outlaw the sales of new small gasoline ICEs over the next few years.
I bought one battery operated lawn and garden tool because I did not want another gasoline engine to deal with. It is not high use and I bought a small blower that uses the same battery. I will be kicking and screaming if I have to buy a battery lawn tractor at a multi-thousand dollar premium over an ICE if the batteries are not guaranteed to last at least to the break even point of an ICE.


#63

Sean OM

Sean OM

Exactly! One of these days they might improve them or at least the battery situation to where they wouldn't be such a sacrifice but for now, for most consumers, there are far too many sacrifices to switch over to a battery powered mower.
I'm just not willing to change to a new way of doing things or a substitute until the replacement item does everything the original did just as well if not better.
It also is needs to be cheaper or I don't see a point.
The Husqvarna 115H automower is 700 dollars good for up to .4 acres, he has .3acres. It less then half what he paid for his old mower. The newer, better wireless autonomous mowers with RTK for centimeter accuracy and various patterns and attachments like mammotion (and several others) are in the 2k range now which is down from like 5-10k from 5 years ago. The 115h started at 3.5k like 5 years ago, but the technology is really dated.
Want a mower your wife can use? Automate it while on vacation? Leave a big block M in your yard to support your college team?, etc. They are getting good and far less expensive. And they are cheaper, easier and require less maintenance to operate. No oil, no gas. It is almost like hiring a lawn service.


#64

T

TobyU

There will not be any choice as states outlaw the sales of new small gasoline ICEs over the next few years.
I bought one battery operated lawn and garden tool because I did not want another gasoline engine to deal with. It is not high use and I bought a small blower that uses the same battery. I will be kicking and screaming if I have to buy a battery lawn tractor at a multi-thousand dollar premium over an ICE if the batteries are not guaranteed to last at least to the break even point of an ICE.
I WILL NOT have any of them! I'll keep used and if they try to outlaw using that... THEY can come cut the damn stuff as I only do it so the city won't come put a sign in the yard!
They actually put a bright green 5x11 sticker on the front door or garage door(if facing the street) and then it you don't cut it in 3 days, they put the yard sign up!
They can just put it on my property taxes and extort some more and I will refuse to pay that part. Then I will die without paying.
They will get it eventually but I will not pay them.

I take issue with forced BS!


#65

Sean OM

Sean OM

There will not be any choice as states outlaw the sales of new small gasoline ICEs over the next few years.
I bought one battery operated lawn and garden tool because I did not want another gasoline engine to deal with. It is not high use and I bought a small blower that uses the same battery. I will be kicking and screaming if I have to buy a battery lawn tractor at a multi-thousand dollar premium over an ICE if the batteries are not guaranteed to last at least to the break even point of an ICE.

I don't know if they will outlaw them in the next few years. I am not sure they have to. It is going to happen whether there is a law or not. The convenience of electric for cities, and suburbia outweigh the advantages of gas. It is less work and makes less noise. The prices are starting to get close enough in that lower tier, that most people especially professionals are already going to buy electric for their next upgrade.

For larger country properties and professionals, it is a bit of a different story. The price drops and 'range' aren't there yet. But I looked at autonomous mowers for the first time in a couple of years and their range is going up and prices have fallen drastically.

Then you have the whole, 'lawn care is a waste' movement going on as well. And I WILL say, that I mowed in strips this year like every two weeks and mosquitos and crickets were non-existent because dragonflys were ALL over the place eating them in the longer grass. No algae issues in the pond either. zero spent on fertilizer, pesticides and herbicides. The lawn did not look like a golf course, but it never did anyway. :)


#66

T

TobyU

I don't know if they will outlaw them in the next few years. I am not sure they have to. It is going to happen whether there is a law or not. The convenience of electric for cities, and suburbia outweigh the advantages of gas. It is less work and makes less noise. The prices are starting to get close enough in that lower tier, that most people especially professionals are already going to buy electric for their next upgrade.

For larger country properties and professionals, it is a bit of a different story. The price drops and 'range' aren't there yet. But I looked at autonomous mowers for the first time in a couple of years and their range is going up and prices have fallen drastically.

Then you have the whole, 'lawn care is a waste' movement going on as well. And I WILL say, that I mowed in strips this year like every two weeks and mosquitos and crickets were non-existent because dragonflys were ALL over the place eating them in the longer grass. No algae issues in the pond either. zero spent on fertilizer, pesticides and herbicides. The lawn did not look like a golf course, but it never did anyway. :)
You said convenience that outweigh the advantages of gas. This will probably be true for some of these professionals you mentioned. I'm assuming you meant white collar professional people in that and certainly not lawn care professionals who cut grass for a living because you covered that in your next paragraph.
People today are really funny about convenience and I think it's a terrible trait.
They're willing to pay more for it too and I believe in frugality or even cheapskated-ness.

However, the only people these are going to be more convenient for will be people with quite small yards and those who are willing to cut them quite frequently.
In some of the suburb areas this may be the case but in a lot of areas in the country especially a lot of these newer upper scale developments going in where almost everyone who lives there is definitely a white collar professional, The lawns are far too large to cut with a battery-powered mower.
Now I'm talking standard push mower size lawns. In reality, most of these big expensive homes are going to need a rider or in the more likely scenario, they're paying someone to cut their grass anyways!
But for many people whatever convenience there may be will be greatly overshadowed by the sacrifice they have to make to deal with the battery powered mower which is lower power, not nearly as long or indefinite cutting time, and having to cut the grass far more frequently.
Plenty of people are quite spoiled with gasoline mowers knowing you can go 8 10 or 12 days and sometimes longer between cuts and it doesn't make it that much more difficult to cut.
Try that with a battery powered mower and it's not going to work.
Anything over a minor trim is going to cut your battery capacity down to under half of what it's rated.
Now, blower is a string trimmers.. there's nothing more convenient than having a small rechargeable drill size battery to slap on one and pull the trigger and it works great!
However, you better not need one for over 15 or 20 minutes or it's going to be a hassle and an inconvenience.


#67

Sean OM

Sean OM

You said convenience that outweigh the advantages of gas. This will probably be true for some of these professionals you mentioned. I'm assuming you meant white collar professional people in that and certainly not lawn care professionals who cut grass for a living because you covered that in your next paragraph.
People today are really funny about convenience and I think it's a terrible trait.
They're willing to pay more for it too and I believe in frugality or even cheapskated-ness.

However, the only people these are going to be more convenient for will be people with quite small yards and those who are willing to cut them quite frequently.
In some of the suburb areas this may be the case but in a lot of areas in the country especially a lot of these newer upper scale developments going in where almost everyone who lives there is definitely a white collar professional, The lawns are far too large to cut with a battery-powered mower.
Now I'm talking standard push mower size lawns. In reality, most of these big expensive homes are going to need a rider or in the more likely scenario, they're paying someone to cut their grass anyways!
But for many people whatever convenience there may be will be greatly overshadowed by the sacrifice they have to make to deal with the battery powered mower which is lower power, not nearly as long or indefinite cutting time, and having to cut the grass far more frequently.
Plenty of people are quite spoiled with gasoline mowers knowing you can go 8 10 or 12 days and sometimes longer between cuts and it doesn't make it that much more difficult to cut.
Try that with a battery powered mower and it's not going to work.
Anything over a minor trim is going to cut your battery capacity down to under half of what it's rated.
Now, blower is a string trimmers.. there's nothing more convenient than having a small rechargeable drill size battery to slap on one and pull the trigger and it works great!
However, you better not need one for over 15 or 20 minutes or it's going to be a hassle and an inconvenience.

The white collars are in the mindset time is money. And a lot of them don't like to get greasy dirty.
But it is funny watching people and seeing how they are skimping because everyone does it, they just skimp at different things. :)

I agree once you get to about half acre lots, things change. However, that is kind of where the autonomous mowers kick in as well. I just saw one that was rated for almost an acre and a couple of years ago that didn't exist. There isn't a rule that says you have to mow the lawn all in one shot either. I mean time isn't a factor if you aren't doing the work. It could mow part of the lawn, recharge itself and mow another section repeatedly until the lawn was done.

for a hand tool that is a different story because you are operating it so you are either waiting for the recharge, paying for the convenience of another battery or buy the gas tool and have to deal with all the issues with gas tools.


#68

T

TobyU

The white collars are in the mindset time is money. And a lot of them don't like to get greasy dirty.
But it is funny watching people and seeing how they are skimping because everyone does it, they just skimp at different things. :)

I agree once you get to about half acre lots, things change. However, that is kind of where the autonomous mowers kick in as well. I just saw one that was rated for almost an acre and a couple of years ago that didn't exist. There isn't a rule that says you have to mow the lawn all in one shot either. I mean time isn't a factor if you aren't doing the work. It could mow part of the lawn, recharge itself and mow another section repeatedly until the lawn was done.

for a hand tool that is a different story because you are operating it so you are either waiting for the recharge, paying for the convenience of another battery or buy the gas tool and have to deal with all the issues with gas tools.
Yes, but when you say -all the issues of gas tools- it already sounds like you have quite a preference towards battery ones. Lol
Of the many gas handheld tools like this I have owned and used over the decades, I don't find there to be a lot of issues as at all. The only thing that would be mildly aggravating would be mixing up the two cycle gas which I still prefer because the four cycle ones are fairly wimpy and the lifespan doesn't seem to be very good but that's how everything works today. They don't want you to get 20 years out of a piece of equipment that only cost around a hundred bucks like so many of us have done with so many of these over the years.
I tend to be fairly unbiased about these things and have used most of all of them.
I do however certainly have preferences. Lol
As I mentioned, I don't think you can beat the convenience of a string trimmer or a blower that is battery powered for ease of use if you're just blowing off a smaller driveway or your walkway after a mow.
But anyone who needs to use one over 20 minutes or so, and sometimes only 15 to 18,.... The convenience is now loan I have to switch battery packs and I would have been much happier to just grab the gasoline one start it and complete the entire job.

These professionals with time is money....
A lot of them really do like to go into that mindset and phrase because they're trying to justify their own laziness or sometimes lack of knowledge of actually how to do a situation and other times maybe ability.
I guess even i, maybe....if I became an absolutely absurd high amount lottery winner who was set for multiple lives and hadn't worked for any of the money...might.... Stop being a cheapskate but I really doubt it!!

I would go out and buy several expensive vehicles but not a single one of them would be new because that's a waste and you get hosed and pay a premium. These purchases are usually just because of vanity and pride and they want their butt to be the first one that's ever set on the seat in their mind
But more often, they rationalize it due to the warranty and the expectation of having no problems so peace of mind, convenience and no aggravation expected.
Financially, except for some one-off outlier specific nitpick situation, you will always be better off to get a good deal on something used or like new but not exactly do and when you have that kind of money you can certainly afford to pay to get it fixed if something does happen but in the law of numbers, it won't as many times as it does so you'll have more money.

Had a big discussion on a car group one time with some guy who was very proud of his income which obviously wasn't in the realm of a vulgar amount lottery winner as I mentioned.... But had no intention of ever doing front brakes on his fairly new $62k expedition. I'm assuming it was at least two to three years old or why would he be doing brakes in the first place and even that's a little new of an estimate because maybe there should be a warranty until at least 3/36000.
Regardless, he went into a diet tribe about how much he makes per hour and how it would be financially stupid and even irresponsible to take off work to spend the time to do these brakes.
-LIKE he had any idea on how to actually do them or had the tools to do the job! RIGHT....
But see he turned it into a talking point, pedantic, nitpicking situation because NOWHERE HAVE I EVER NOR WOULD I recommend someone take time off work or from any other paid activities to put some front brakes on their vehicle!!
Any normal human being would know the recommendation is to do it in some part of that free time almost everyone has throughout their week or two week or pay period or whatever. Lol
When you bring this up, then, they go into how busy they are and making up more excuses. Lol
Hardly anyone, I would actually go all the way and say nobody works that much!
This same guy probably sits around and watches at least five if not 10 hours plus a week of TV and he probably hangs out in a club, sports bar etc wasting multiple hours a week drinking an extra couple of beers socializing or just chilling, instead of just eating those wings as a meal and leaving.
So while I understand many people talk about time being money, I feel it's mostly just a rationalization or justification because the time I'm talking about using would not otherwise be used for making money so it would not be a trade off and you would not be sacrificing money for the time.
Most people like this are simply lazy or feel it's beneath them or take them mentality they have achieved enough in life not to be bothered by menial tasks as that.
I really can't say I blame them as far as lawn Care etc.
Personally, I hate autonomous mowers and the idea of them but I really can't believe that in 2024, we're still cutting grass!
I lost the desire to cut grass when I was a kid after doing it about two times.
I still like operating a zero turn for about 7 minutes and after that it's just work so I'm done.
The ONLY reason I ever cut mine is so the local jurisdiction won't come out and place a notice at or on the property because then if I didn't cut it they would do it and add it to property taxes.
I hate most things that you have to do repeatedly.
Things I choose to do repeatedly because I enjoy them are completely different situation.


#69

Sean OM

Sean OM

Personally, I hate autonomous mowers and the idea of them but I really can't believe that in 2024, we're still cutting grass!
I lost the desire to cut grass when I was a kid after doing it about two times.
I still like operating a zero turn for about 7 minutes and after that it's just work so I'm done.
The ONLY reason I ever cut mine is so the local jurisdiction won't come out and place a notice at or on the property

If you have an autonomous mower, then you don't need to personally mow the lawn. And your 7 minutes mowing will be trimming spots that it wasn't programmed to get. And changing the blades to sharpen them isn't trying to figure out how to crawl under the tractor or removing the deck and wrestling with it. The cost differential has disappeared what was 3500 dollars 5 years ago is 600 and about double the area covered. The GPS ones, were in the 10k+ range and really I saw more hobbyist ones, with modified lawn tractors and zero turns.

There is some movement to change mowing. It isn't supported by Michigan State University's supposedly good Turf Grass Management program. But the city was pushing a "no mow" May. Part of it is the chemicals adversely affect the 'good microbes' needed for soil health, and the beneficial insect populations. If you apply too many chemicals you destroy the beneficial microbes (aerobic bacteria, nematodes, and fungus) which balance out other issues. Like aerobic bacteria feed on the anaerobic bacteria (generally speaking aerobic bacteria are good, and anaerobic are bad and cause issues), the 'good' nematodes feed on grubs and larva many of which feed on grass roots, then moles/voles come feed on those grubs. And the mycorrhizal fungus attaches to a plants root and increases the root surface area by 20x and trades nutrients and water for carbon with the plant, and it is like a sponge and stores water which reduces water applications.

As far as the guy that was bragging about money? A lot of them think that working on things like lawnmowers are 'beneath' them as well. Woman don't want to know, and prefer to hire it out and even supposedly 'progressive women' will say it is man's work. Which goes hand in hand, with wanting to look cool or wanting to appear to be successful. It doesn't mean those people can afford it, they just want to give the illusion they can. Which gets back to the whole having a good looking lawn. Even autonomous mowers fit this group because now it is cool but useful toy, but because of the price drops, they aren't necessarily more expensive.


#70

T

TobyU

If you have an autonomous mower, then you don't need to personally mow the lawn. And your 7 minutes mowing will be trimming spots that it wasn't programmed to get. And changing the blades to sharpen them isn't trying to figure out how to crawl under the tractor or removing the deck and wrestling with it. The cost differential has disappeared what was 3500 dollars 5 years ago is 600 and about double the area covered. The GPS ones, were in the 10k+ range and really I saw more hobbyist ones, with modified lawn tractors and zero turns.

There is some movement to change mowing. It isn't supported by Michigan State University's supposedly good Turf Grass Management program. But the city was pushing a "no mow" May. Part of it is the chemicals adversely affect the 'good microbes' needed for soil health, and the beneficial insect populations. If you apply too many chemicals you destroy the beneficial microbes (aerobic bacteria, nematodes, and fungus) which balance out other issues. Like aerobic bacteria feed on the anaerobic bacteria (generally speaking aerobic bacteria are good, and anaerobic are bad and cause issues), the 'good' nematodes feed on grubs and larva many of which feed on grass roots, then moles/voles come feed on those grubs. And the mycorrhizal fungus attaches to a plants root and increases the root surface area by 20x and trades nutrients and water for carbon with the plant, and it is like a sponge and stores water which reduces water applications.

As far as the guy that was bragging about money? A lot of them think that working on things like lawnmowers are 'beneath' them as well. Woman don't want to know, and prefer to hire it out and even supposedly 'progressive women' will say it is man's work. Which goes hand in hand, with wanting to look cool or wanting to appear to be successful. It doesn't mean those people can afford it, they just want to give the illusion they can. Which gets back to the whole having a good looking lawn. Even autonomous mowers fit this group because now it is cool but useful toy, but because of the price drops, they aren't necessarily more expensive.
I think it's pathetic that we have to keep cutting it.
We should have artificial maybe even stuff that goes you and down to simulate growth and you push a button to retract (mow) it. Lol
Maybe a spray that once you get it joining his you want.... It stays that way.
I don't care ONE BIT what my lawn/grass/yard looks like.
Never have... Never will.


#71

R

Ron 733

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
I have a 2006 Husqvarna GTH2448 (Briggs) bought new, I use at home, which is 35,000 ft. to cut. It has 1200 hours on it. Then I have a 2011, GTH2654 (Kohler) at our land in the country (ten acres). I bought used with 300 hours on it two years ago. Which I use to cut the back four acres, 200,000 ft. It has 450 hours on it. The 06 has been cutting my grass, hauling around an Agri-fab leave vac, aerator, etc, for 18 years now. I've replaced the voltage regulator once and that's it. Plus, nothing on the 2011.They both are garage kept and get spindles greased every 10 hours and oil at 40. Maintenance is the key to a long life. I believe Husqvarna makes a very good garden tractor. Better than most, including JD. I do prefer the Kohler engine by a little. Not as loud and runs very smooth, plus lots of power. I would search for one about ten years old, 400 hours or so, garage kept. You should find a nice one for $1200 or less. The new ones are coming out with plastic hydro transmissions. With a 48 inch, you will probably cut your grass in 20 minutes. 13,000 ft. is nothing. My 54 inch cut four acres in two hours. The back four is 400 by 500 feet, plus uphill and downhill.


#72

BubbaSam

BubbaSam

Kohler Command is the best single engine on the market. Too bad they quit making them. They just don't tear up. Biggest problem is carb issues and most of that is due to sitting with fuel in them too long gumming up the carb.
What about Honda? Their engines seem to be bullet proof. Am I wrong?


#73

H

hlw49

Don't see any single Hondas on riding mowers they make a really good GX series horizontal engine GC engines are so so..


#74

W

W1D2C

Toro / Briggs and Straton - 20 plus years and still going. Speaking as a consumer not commercial. The key is maintenance. So many other mowers out there are also good but if not maintained properly you should not rate as a bad choice. Does smoke a little on high grass but other than that is fine. Direct drive never touched. Axles, bearings, wheels, blades, filters, oil, recoil and more were the items changed over the years,


#75

T

TobyU

Toro / Briggs and Straton - 20 plus years and still going. Speaking as a consumer not commercial. The key is maintenance. So many other mowers out there are also good but if not maintained properly you should not rate as a bad choice. Does smoke a little on high grass but other than that is fine. Direct drive never touched. Axles, bearings, wheels, blades, filters, oil, recoil and more were the items changed over the years,
It's really not about maintenance.
It's more about not neglecting and or abusing it.
The two often get mixed together though because if someone changes their oil once or even twice a year then they are fairly unlikely to run it low on oil which is actually abuse and or neglect from letting it get low in the first place.
This is what shortens the life and causes problems.
With the transmissions, there's really not much you can do because the vast majority of them are sealed for life and not supposed to have the fluid changed or checked at all.
Spindles are mostly the same way as the majority of them don't have grease fittings at all so they're going to last as long as they're going to last and longer under ideal conditions.

Abused them by hitting everything that just might happen to be hiding in the grass and you will impact and shock these bearings and cause them to fail earlier.

Most people who really love to maintain their equipment convince themselves they are benefiting themselves and getting extra life and or saving money when in fact, with most pieces of equipment made in the past 25 or so years if you were to take 50 identical items and treat them all different ways or maintain some excellent and not do a thing to the other ones but bare minimum, the people who did nothing would actually come out of head because they wouldn't have spent the money on things maintenance wise and they would be replacing them very close to the same time as the other people and having the same kinds of failures.

Now, don't get me wrong because I run a shop and make money for maintaining things but let's talk about push mowers for a minute.
I have to first also say that I'm basically half price or less of every other shop in my area so it's not as bad with me but with the average shop.....if one buyer buys a brand new $600 Honda lawn mower let's say and another person buys the same mower.
The first person takes their mower in every single season and gets a general maintenance/annual service / tune up (don't get me started on the word tune up because I think it's evil word and I will not use it with customers and I train them all not to).
The other person doesn't do anything to their mower but top off the oil when it needs it.
They may take out the air filter and dust it off or even replace it but that's very minor in most are capable of doing that and this certainly would not constitute proper maintenance.

The average ticket price to get that more done the average shop in the country is between 125 and 175.
It doesn't make much difference what they do or how many points of inspection and checks they put on the paperwork to make it sound like a better value and you don't always get more things done and adjusted properly by paying more but that's the average spread.
So let's go with 150.
In 4 years that person has spent $600 in service and they have a four year old mower.
The other person could throw their mower away right then and go out and buy a brand new $600 mower and they would be dead even except one person would have a brand new shiny mower with likely a longer life expectancy and the other person would have a four year old one.

It's highly unlikely that even with no service that tomorrow will be shot and not working properly and not able to keep going at year 4.
Most people get five to seven years without so much as a no start problem or whatever else and a lot of people traditionally have gotten 10 to 15 years out of the mower.
So playing the numbers and if you were a betting person, the most cost-effective way of doing it is not to service one at all!

Now I must note that this would have worked great up until about 2012 to 2015.
Unfortunately everything has shifted here lately and the price of lawn mowers is no longer flat with them jumping up greatly recently and they will probably continue to rise by a set percentage every other year or so so this messes up the fact of being able to buy that brand new mower for the same price you did before but for 20 plus years the prices were flat.
There's also the problem that 5 years from now mowers probably won't be made as well as they are now and they are not now made as well as they were five years before.
So we're in a constant state of degradation of quality and increase of prices.
Still, since the price of service keeps going up too, the most cost effective way is to do as I said but it worked far better up until about 2015.

Do the math.. try to prove me wrong.. y
You can't!
I have had thousands of customers and I get people that bring me mowers every year from their first season or second season on and I get other people that bring them when it's been three or four years they figure they might want to get it checked out and I have other people who only bring me the mower because it no longer starts and runs well enough to cut grass.

I have seen far too many lawn mowers that were 13 to 17 years old that still had a good number of years left in them but they certainly had not been maintained as well as they should have been or some people would.

The numbers don't lie.


#76

B

ba63

Don’t get a (Craftsman rebranded) Husqvarna! Their rear axle seals fall out routinely and the grease comes out of the rear axle and there is no way to degrease it (no fitting) or replace the seal (non replaceable). Their only solution was to replace the entire transmission!
Huhh? If your referring to the old Tecumseh Peerless transmissions, I never had the seals just fall out like that unless the end of the axle shaft that surrounds those seals has broken off, too (from extreme abuse or accident). There is a plug on the top of the transaxle to add oil. Both the manual and hydro Peerless were some of the best and toughest transaxles that were made. Plus, they were completely rebuildable. Now if your referring to a newer Tough Torque or some other gearbox, then yeah, I wouldn’t be surprised at all! Any mower with a plastic transaxle case should be avoided like a disease!


#77

T

TobyU

Huhh? If your referring to the old Tecumseh Peerless transmissions, I never had the seals just fall out like that unless the end of the axle shaft that surrounds those seals has broken off, too (from extreme abuse or accident). There is a plug on the top of the transaxle to add oil. Both the manual and hydro Peerless were some of the best and toughest transaxles that were made. Plus, they were completely rebuildable. Now if your referring to a newer Tough Torque or some other gearbox, then yeah, I wouldn’t be surprised at all! Any mower with a plastic transaxle case should be avoided like a disease!
He needs to be careful about lumping them all into one category too.
Even though at one time the Craftsman's were basically a Husqvarna even though the company they owned was called ayp at the time... Now, the majority of Craftsman riders are going to be made by MTD so people should not think that Craftsman's today are rebranded husqvarna's as most are not.

Regardless, and here's the funny part about people with their brand loyalty or bashing brands because of one bad....all of these brand mowers share the same basic engine and transmissions.
Only a handful of engine options out there and only two or three maybe four, transmission options out there.
It is true that this is usually the deal-breaker on a more that's been on for a number of years when there's a problem because if it is an engine or transmission issue it's usually not cost-effective to repair.
But before anyone goes making buying decisions based on brand etc, they better get down underneath them and start taking pictures of the tag on the transmission and look up the numbers to see exactly what model transmission it is.
The engines are a little easier to ID.
The k46 transmission is probably the most common one on lawn tractors over the past 20 plus years and I'll have to say I'm not a fan!
Sure, plenty of people had their entire ownership of these mowers for 15 to 20 plus years and the transmission was still working like it was supposed to when they replace the mowers but there's still been too many failures etc on these things because they're barely up to the task.
They are a light-duty transmission and they're designed to be permanently sealed with readily accessible fill port and no drain, replaceable external filter etc.
The same goes for many of the hydrostatic transmissions when they go with the 21/2200 or even 28/3100.
They make much better robust ones but of course they skmp all they can.


#78

P

Peterplocket

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Hi Buddy D, Pleased to read your message re JDs! I'm on the point of buying one……costing me not much less than £2500! Previously I've had a Husqvana with B & S engine. Lasted over 20 years with very little trouble: one new cutting deck, a few new batteries and a few new starter motor gears - the bit at the top of the s. motor. Other than that, it’s been fantastic! Have any other readers got sad stories about JDs? I'd love to know before I part with my cash!


#79

X

X580

…And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...

… I am no fan of John Deere, however, boycotting all John Deere products because of one engine failure at 160 hours …

I see this thread has grown quite the legs and so I ASSume it’s already been pointed out - and @buddyd , I am not one to try and “talk you into” another John Deere but,

THERE IS A LOT OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE “E” SERIES JD’s you see lined up out in front of the chain stores VERSUS THE “X” SERIES (“true“ John Deere products) AT JD DEALERS …


#80

C

Chuter

I see this thread has grown quite the legs and so I ASSume it’s already been pointed out - and @buddyd , I am not one to try and “talk you into” another John Deere but,

THERE IS A LOT OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE “E” SERIES JD’s you see lined up out in front of the chain stores VERSUS THE “X” SERIES (“true“ John Deere products) AT JD DEALERS …
I worked in the service department of a JD dealer for a couple of years, primarily in the lawn and garden area. We sold the same tractors as the big box stores, plus the bigger real John Deeres. Everything on the E and 100 series was cheaply made, but cost as much to service or replace as on the big ones. I tell everyone to never by a John Deere that starts with a 1 or has an E in it. Same holds true for their big tractors, by the way. Just because it comes from the dealer doesn't make it a classically tough John Deere.


#81

D

ddbtdd

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
Buddy


#82

C

Chipg1956

I didn't read all of the posts which proceed mine. I find the Briggs to be far more dependable then the Kohler. The Kohlers have electrical problems with both charging and ignition, these problems are almost unheard of on the Briggs. Starters are very good on both. I have also seen failures of the governor on the Kohlers. The governor gear shatters. This is a big job, remove the engine and split the crankcase. I have never seen a catastrophic failure on a Briggs except caused by low or no oil.


#83

D

ddbtdd

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
You said your property is sloped. Did your Briggs have oil pressurized cooling or oil splash cooling? If you had a splash cooled engine on a slope, that might be why it burned up.


#84

G

GregBuchan

I’d stay away from any mower made by Husqvarna/Craftsman. They favor, and practice, replace the major component over fix or repair and individual part. For example, a rear axle seal on their riders simply falls out causing grease to spray the inside on the adjacent tire/wheel and it’s not easily noticed. The seal is easily pushed back into place but is not able to be secured. Worse, there is no grease port to reinstall the required lubricant. The manufacturer rep simply said you cannot add grease and must replace the transmission whose cost far exceeded to value of the 3 year old mower.
Moreover, even the manufacturer’s support team was unable to identify the part that retains the direction drive selector at the transmission. It pops off under the seat area and is difficult to reattach. It pops off after every bump and I have to shut the machine down, crawl practically underneath it to get my arms and hands in between the transmission and frame to put the selector back on its post 3-5 times every time I use it. I’ve tried JBWeld and have tried multiple things to hold it in place but cannot see it or get it to remain fixed.
I’ll never buy another Husqvarna/Craftsman mower again. They’ve cheapened the critical parts to make them disposable.


#85

G

gregboggess

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
I have three 54" cut Husqvarna mowers, 2 w/Kohler and one with Briggs, One of them
Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
h
I have three Husqvarna 54", 2 with Kohler, 1 with Briggs, all were purchased used @ 300+ hours. One has over 1000 hrs., the other two are 700/800 hrs. I prefer the one with the Briggs only because it is VERY fuel efficient. If I have a mechanical issue, I repair it immediately. I service them every year, check the oil EVERY time before I crank it up. Yes . . . you will have mechanical issues no matter what brand you purchase. If you purchase a new mower, even though it may seem expensive get the extended warranty, but read it first, it should take care of most if the mechanical issues you will have. The mower that has 1000 hrs, had the extended warranty and had the motor replaced at 700+ hours. T think the reason was because it developed a persistent oil leak and the tech. did not want to fix that issue and just said "f$%k it" the motor is bad and replaced it. He let me keep the old motor too. One more thing, keep the deck clean.


#86

D

Diwali

I can only refer to reliability and that is my Craftsman LT2000 with its original 17.5hp B&S engine. Bought in 2008 and still in use cutting half an acre of lawn all season and occasionally rough cutting of brambles, nettles etc. The brakes failed last year (but still drivable) so I bought a JD X127 for my grandson to drive. I didn’t want him driving without brakes! JD was not my preferred choice (all plastic and expensive) but it was the only one available at short notice.
While my grandson cuts with the JD, I am still using the Craftsman for all the other jobs - it remains my favourite machine with a reliability and sturdiness that’s hard to beat.


#87

G

GerryB

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD


#88

P

pat_from_indy

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
I've had nearly all of the brands of the mower type you are asking about, and used them for 4 decades. I've never had an engine failure. I would not avoid B&S just based upon one bad engine.

But, everything else besides the engine does give up pretty quickly, especially the deck. It just rusts out and starts failing within a few years.

Further, I have to maneuver around a few trees and road signs, and that mower type was just never very good at those maneuvers.

So, I bought an Exmark ZTR. It is a fantastic mower that gets the job done in half the time and can get up close to any obstacles. Yes, it costs about 2.5x as much, but it is a much better machine and you won't dread mowing. If you can afford it, and you have space in your garage, Exmark is a great mower.


#89

T

toolboxhero

My brother-in-law and I haul scrap metal and in the last year we have picked up four JD 110s with seized engines. We have to drain the oil before we take it to the scrapper and in all cases the oil looked like new. Don't know the hours on them but two of the mowers looked like new...
I suggest a Cub Cadet. The dealers in my area are all great and will help you with any issues you may have.


#90

P

pat_from_indy

I can only refer to reliability and that is my Craftsman LT2000 with its original 17.5hp B&S engine. Bought in 2008 and still in use cutting half an acre of lawn all season and occasionally rough cutting of brambles, nettles etc. The brakes failed last year (but still drivable) so I bought a JD X127 for my grandson to drive. I didn’t want him driving without brakes! JD was not my preferred choice (all plastic and expensive) but it was the only one available at short notice.
While my grandson cuts with the JD, I am still using the Craftsman for all the other jobs - it remains my favourite machine with a reliability and sturdiness that’s hard to beat.
I mean this in a nice way. But I wouldn't call a mower reliable if the brakes don't even work on the machine anymore. I had an LT2000 too, and it slowly broke down just like yours. With mine, the deck rusted through and no longer sat parallel to the turf.


#91

G

Gord Baker

Head gasket was never a problem with my machine. The oil level was checked every time and I NEVER saw oil leakage or low oil level.
To your point, my lack of small engine knowledge may have bit me in the ass this time. Turning the flywheel (?) at the end of the first year became very difficult. My assumption was, battery or perhaps starter (replaced both). Turns out, JD junk. And the dealership shrugged their shoulders. F em
Did you check the Valve Lash? Often a problem.


#92

G

GerryB

Interesting discussion, I can relate to both the thought that a tractor is a luxury and justifiable due to age. When young and if totally honest, more ambitious, I push mowed a full acre. That seemed a better way to stay fit than to pay for a gym membership like many friends were. My luxury came in the form of a self propelled walk behind.

Then I found a good deal on a used Cub Cadet that I loved, it had only 12 HP from a Kohler K series. Then later I bought two John Deere 318's and a 430. With all these I quickly came to understand the major differences between "lawn tractors" and "garden tractors". For the price new, I doubt any manufacturer of garden tractors will risk the long term reputation and use a less than worthy engine. This is not true of the lawn tractors sold in the $2000 range new.

This is true of many other components, from drive train through steering and deck. I can't lift the JD 60" mower deck and suspect it alone may weight nearly as much as some lawn tractors. The lower cost comes with lower service life.

That's why, although I purchased the 318's new (another story), I now buy used garden tractors. There are many folk who simply schedule to buy a new mower every couple years, most of these owners have them dealer maintained and don't blink at the cost. These trades, even though seemingly expensive, can be a bargain with expected lives measured in decades. My 318's were produced in 1985 and remain fantastic mowers with added utility today. If these engines crap, I have already purchased a 26 HP Honda and 24 HP Kohler for repowering.

I've also seen both auctions and Craigslist bargains. It may take some shopping time but when retiring, farmers liquidation auctions often include potential bargains, also when we of the aging class downsize or leave a widow who eagerly sells their garden tractor.


#93

O

Ortis

My 2 cents would be to hire someone to mow. For the price of a decent machine, you can have a fair amount of mowing done.


#94

V

V-Tran

The green paint is not the reason the tractor failed (LOL!) but I agree with you on those Briggs engines. Replacing the engine is not an option because it would just about exceed the cost of the tractor. You could buy a Craftsman or a Husqvarna with a Kohler engine for around $3000. Because you only have about 1/3 acre to mow, may I recommend you consider buying a good quality used commercial 36" or 48" walk behind mower such as Scag or Bobcat? There are plenty on the Marketplace for sale. They come with Kawasaki engines and are very easy to work on. For residential use, it will last forever.


#95

B

barny57

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
As far as John Deere goes you’re buying the Home Depot specials get an actual John Deere tractor


#96

R

rak56

Please be aware that I am talking brand new, low end, residential, big box store riding mowers.

Obviously, a John Deere X series riding mower does not fit this because it is more like $5000 plus new. John Deere has done an amazing job of marketing and branding their name. Quality wise, parts and shop labor rates, and ease of working on them, not so amazing. In other words, John Deere costs more to buy, maintain, don’t hold up any better, and are a pain in the butt to work on often. Obviously, I am not a fan of John Deere. This is coming from hands on experience. Up to 25% of the riding mowers I service are John Deere in my area, so despite not always liking servicing them, it becomes necessary. Our local John Deere dealer is almost $200/ hour on labor. Please tell me how that cost premium is even remotely justified versus the other shops.
My John Deere GT235 is going on 24 years old and still runs great. It has the 18hp Briggs Vanguard v-twin and has just under 1500 hours. I mowed 2 acres with a 54” deck and use the 42” snowblower on a long driveway. The tractor gets used year-round. I use Royal Purple full synthetic oil. I’ve had the valve covers off several times and after wiping the oil off, they look brand new with zero sludge. I’ve never had a belt break, only changed them when they showed cracking. I purchased a Spartan zero turn 3 years ago for mowing but still use the JD in the winter and to pull the yard cart in the summer. My only regret with the JD was not getting the next model up that had power steering and hydraulic lift.
Bottom line, quality usually comes with a price. You get what you pay for. As another poster mentioned, there are used JD’s available that are much better than what you would buy at a big box store.


#97

R

rednucleus

Just read through this topic - have you considered a robot mower rather than a rider. ? I have asimilar sized lot and have used the Stihl IMow for the past 4 seasons. Keeps thelawn looking good and i just need to do perimeter maintnenance with a string trimmer & hand mower monthly. There are several good options on the market.


#98

M

montesa_vr

I swore off Briggs once, but I got a really good deal on a Craftsman mower just as Sears was failing. It has the 19 hp Platinum single, and (with the exception of the Suzuki 2-stroke motor in my first Toro push mower) it has been the best and most trouble free small engine I've ever owned. That little mower was my only implement for my 14 acres for several years, and I'm sure I put more hours on it each year than its total design life. in every way -- zero oil consumption, strong power, smooth running, easy starting, and low maintenance -- it has been great.

Of course, just because mine is a jewel doesn't mean they're all that way. You might have to move up to a Yammer or Kubota if you want to take all the risk out of the engine choice.


#99

D

d2wing

They don't make them like they used to. My son bought a MTD from a hardware store in the late 80's and mowed a few cemeteries every week. It lasted several years of hard use and he sold it still mowing great when he left for college. I had a new Weedeater later made by Poulan that had terrible steering problems. Then I bought a new house that had a large lawn very steep side hills. I bought a used '03 Simplicity Prestige because it has traction control. I also need the power steering and deck because of severe injuries. After a few years I did have to have the head gaskets replaced but other than that it has been a great mower. I expect to run it the rest of my life. I briefly owned a 4x4 Prestige but it didn't turn sharp enough so I kept the old one and sold the 4x4. I have had a couple electric push mowers. I like them but if they fail like one did there is no fix. Basic throw away. Another has battery issues, it still works, I have a spare battery, but they are no longer made and can't find a replacement so that's a throwaway eventually as well. I do have an electric start Toro self propelled push mower that is great.


#100

J

jcworks

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Well, I don't know what you're wanting to spend but 13k sq ft is not a big lawn to mow... thats 114 ft x 114 ft. My prior experience with JD was the stamped deck not holding up. Probably the same though for most stamped decks. But the Kohler engine in it was good. I don't recall ever having to do anything to the engine. Since then though I bought a Toro 50 inch cut ZTR 11 years ago. Super mower. Kawasaki engine. But it is pricey -- over $4k. Whatever brand you but if it was me I'd be looking for : First --- one with a Kawasaki engine. They are the best. 2nd: a Kohler engine.


#101

C

CidGrad90

Your first mistake is blaming John Deere. That mower is a licensed product from MTD. It is not a John Deere. True John Deere mowers begin with the X300 series and use Yanmar engines. Very reliable. As for the other mowers you list, you are still dealing with MTD as the manufacturer. The only way I would go with one of those is if it had a Honda engine in it. Otherwise, pay the cost, get a real JD or Cub Cadet. If you don’t, then be prepared for years of misery. For reference, I have a John Deere X300, going on about 18 years now. I have had to replace a couple of pulleys, belts, and such, normal wear and tear items, the engine is still going strong.


#102

T

Tjaaksie

We bought a JD lawn tractor, X300R, you know, the green farm equipment that last decades, right? Wrong. We had multiple problems since month 2, engine, belts, bearings, belts. Many design flaws, ie. bearings too small, belts too small. Had to donate it to get rid of it. Could be a nice go-kart for the kids.

Has since a Husquavarna Z242F, does the job.


#103

J

juslog

Get a zero turn with Kawasaki engine in it. Ikon is a big box brand thats made by same Gravely machines, solid and dependable. The difference between a zero turn vs a riding mower is night and day!! A little pricier but its all worth it!!


#104

J

juslog

Your first mistake is blaming John Deere. That mower is a licensed product from MTD. It is not a John Deere. True John Deere mowers begin with the X300 series and use Yanmar engines. Very reliable. As for the other mowers you list, you are still dealing with MTD as the manufacturer. The only way I would go with one of those is if it had a Honda engine in it. Otherwise, pay the cost, get a real JD or Cub Cadet. If you don’t, then be prepared for years of misery. For reference, I have a John Deere X300, going on about 18 years now. I have had to replace a couple of pulleys, belts, and such, normal wear and tear items, the engine is still going strong.
I still have 33 yr old Murray with 18 hp, Vtwin BS engine in it. Still going strong, just had to replace the carb coz it clogged up due to non use. So, BS engines are not all bad. Besides, buying them help this US industry.


#105

V

v908

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
I can't speak to your lawn in particular, but 10 years ago I purchased a Craftsman T1600 riding mower and it's still going strong. All I've ever done is change the oil (not often enough) and replace the blades when worn. I have had to replace the deck belt a couple times, but that's normal as well. The thing is, I don't have a lawn. I have 5 acres of grass and brush and rocks and twigs and I downright torture the poor thing. I literally mow over small scrub bushes to eliminate them, flatten gopher mounds, chop up twigs and such, etc. I try to avoid larger rocks, but it still eats its share of rocks. I know one day it's just going to die on me, and I won't blame it. Over 10 years of brutalizing this machine and it's still happy to start and run. I know my experience may not be 'normal', but I'll certainly look to Craftsman mowers again when the need arises.


#106

F

fastcat

And all this talk ,his question still not answered. I'm going to purchase a new mower soon , I would like to know what is the best , I have lot's of trees and 1-1/2 acres .


#107

S

stirs

I purchased my first rider at Farm & Fleet in 1990 for a 1/3 acre lot. It was a 12hp Ranch King (MTD) and it lasted for 30 years with normal maintenance. For my river 1 acre property I bought a Troy Bilt Super Bronco 22hp in 2005 and it's still going strong. I replaced the MTD with a JD E-100 in 2022 rated for 1 acre and had trouble after a month. It wouldn't go forward or backwards. It has a lever for neutral moving in the rear and engaging the Trans.. You could tell the handle had no resistance it was like it was not attached. Had to remove the keyways on the rear wheels to move it for Warr. to JD. After 3 weeks they told me they didn't find anything but you could feel the lever now had resistance while engaging. I took out 2 more years of warranty they sent me in a mail flyer. It's been a year and no problems. I found out they rate the life of this model for 8 to 10 years. Maybe with 1/3 acre it will last longer. I don't know much about engines and just do normal maintenance stuff. At 80 I'm getting a little slower but still do what's required maintenance.


#108

D

ddbtdd

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
I have thrown rods in a Kohler and a Briggs, so we live and learn.
You might take your 4-year-old JD rider to a reliable shop and have them put in another engine of your choosing, new or used if you can get one.
Other than that, I like Snapper and Simplicity products maybe with a Kaw engine, new or used. That's another direction that I would explore. No big box stuff for me. Good mowers aren't cheap and cheap mowers aren't good.


#109

A

Air4Dave

That 13K sq ft is a bit much to mow with a push mower, even self-propelled. It is sloped from front to back and at my advanced age...
A lawn tractor is a nice luxury for me.I change up the mowing patterns so no ruts, etc. The failure on the JD was a failed connector rod which is probably more related to the eng. manuf. B&S, thus my search is excluding those motors if possible.
I've done my research, mine is not an isolated incident with JD machines. Additionally, I have had a Craftsmen snow thrower for 25+ years and never a problem. The Craftsman moves frozen water, the lawn tractor small blades of grass. Though hours per year are significantly less with the snow thrower, it's appalling to spend $1800 on a lawn mower and get 4 seasons of use out of it.
I'm also at an "advanced" age and I also have about the same amount of lawn. Question: have you looked into just replacing your engine with another brand, maybe Kohler or Kawasaki? Riders are up in the $2400+ range and are just the same build as 5 years ago when they were selling at $1800! If you're still bent on buying new, I'd be looking at the zero turn mowers. Toro commercial puts out a good one that we used at our college, but you have to be careful with these and maintain them well! They use the hydrostatic system on each wheel in the back and you just have to be careful what you're driving over. I like the Cub Cadet riders. They have a good turning radius and are pretty reliable. Just my .02 worth.


#110

D

ddbtdd

And all this talk ,his question still not answered. I'm going to purchase a new mower soon , I would like to know what is the best , I have lot's of trees and 1-1/2 acres .
I said for him to consider a new or good used engine.
Now if you have a lot of trees on 1.5 acres, consider a ZTR. I have a Snapper Pro which is more than the average homeowner needs. I would look at Simplicity or Snappers with a Kawasaki engine. 42 - 48 inch deck.


#111

J

jcworks

And all this talk ,his question still not answered. I'm going to purchase a new mower soon , I would like to know what is the best , I have lot's of trees and 1-1/2 acres .
And all this talk ,his question still not answered. I'm going to purchase a new mower soon , I would like to know what is the best , I have lot's of trees and 1-1/2 acres .
Toro. Pay a little extra and get a good one. ZTR, welded steel deck and most important, a Kawasaki engine. I've had mine 11 years. I've replaced one belt and two spindles (pulleys) in 11 years. What has been done to the Kawasaki engine? >>>> nothing.


#112

E

Earthquake Landscaping

This is Rumour Control... These are the facts... :cool:
Yup, for starters, there are so many accurate posts on this thread that I wouldn't know where to start to accurately quote them..
For me, my first experience with a John Deere, was buying one (D-160), from a Big Box Store, when a Landscaping Company was, literally, thrown in my lap. ( Another story for another day).
Having a rip roaring case of O.C.D., I actually read the manual from front to back. Wow!! The manual states that the warrantee, is 2 years, or 120 hours, whichever comes first. Are you 'effin kidding me? If you used it all day, five days a week, that equates to a three week Warrantee!! WTF??
It got more interesting when it came to the Hydro-static trans.. " The drive is sealed, and as such, requires no maintenance.". The drive is a "Tough - Torque" K46.. Now, there's a point to note.. The trans was built to the specs provided by John Deere, who probably saved about a buck, by specifying that there was to be no drain hole in the case. So, at 50 hours, I removed the trans from the tractor, popped off the vent plug, and upended it over a bucket for the night. I then refilled it with Amsoil premium synthetic. The improvement in performance was noticeable. In spite of my O.C.D. scheduled maintenance, it still ate parts on a regular basis. Spindles, despite regular lubrication, self destructed. Etc, Etc.
I got asked why I'd bought that "POS".. My only defence was that I'd relied on the John Deere reputation.. Just because it's green, doesn't mean it's a John Deere.. It's just another cheap POS, sold by your neighbourhood box store.
They're like chainsaws.. when you are at the lowest price point, you get the lowest quality / build that there is. They ( the manufacturers) , just use the name to sell crap products.


#113

K

keninnsw

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Ive been mowing and landscaping 1.5 acres since 2016 with a 42 inch Husqvarna and a Kohler 18hp engine. Ive replaced 2 belts 2 spindles 1 starter motor and one fuel pump. Regularly serviced it myself and check oil before every start. Still doesnt use or burn oil. Happy with this model.


#114

J

jcworks

Ive been mowing and landscaping 1.5 acres since 2016 with a 42 inch Husqvarna and a Kohler 18hp engine. Ive replaced 2 belts 2 spindles 1 starter motor and one fuel pump. Regularly serviced it myself and check oil before every start. Still doesnt use or burn oil. Happy with this model.
I ran a Kohler for about 11 years on a JD tractor. I don't recall the hp (maybe 17?), the engine was the best part, no issues at all. The Toro ZTR I now have had for 11 yrs has a Kawasaki. Also, a good engine. No issues in 11 yrs.


#115

K

keninnsw

This is Rumour Control... These are the facts... :cool:
Yup, for starters, there are so many accurate posts on this thread that I wouldn't know where to start to accurately quote them..
For me, my first experience with a John Deere, was buying one (D-160), from a Big Box Store, when a Landscaping Company was, literally, thrown in my lap. ( Another story for another day).
Having a rip roaring case of O.C.D., I actually read the manual from front to back. Wow!! The manual states that the warrantee, is 2 years, or 120 hours, whichever comes first. Are you 'effin kidding me? If you used it all day, five days a week, that equates to a three week Warrantee!! WTF??
It got more interesting when it came to the Hydro-static trans.. " The drive is sealed, and as such, requires no maintenance.". The drive is a "Tough - Torque" K46.. Now, there's a point to note.. The trans was built to the specs provided by John Deere, who probably saved about a buck, by specifying that there was to be no drain hole in the case. So, at 50 hours, I removed the trans from the tractor, popped off the vent plug, and upended it over a bucket for the night. I then refilled it with Amsoil premium synthetic. The improvement in performance was noticeable. In spite of my O.C.D. scheduled maintenance, it still ate parts on a regular basis. Spindles, despite regular lubrication, self destructed. Etc, Etc.
I got asked why I'd bought that "POS".. My only defence was that I'd relied on the John Deere reputation.. Just because it's green, doesn't mean it's a John Deere.. It's just another cheap POS, sold by your neighbourhood box store.
They're like chainsaws.. when you are at the lowest price point, you get the lowest quality / build that there is. They ( the manufacturers) , just use the name to sell crap products.
Maybe its time we levied the Chinese suppliers for the cost of landfill so they'd produce better quality


#116

G

gasjr4wd

Take a good look at a zero turn. Once you cut with one you'll never go back to the old yard slug. (I run a Hustler w/Kohler)


#117

BubbaSam

BubbaSam

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Hello BuddyD,
Well, I would say that EVERYONE has their preference. In my eyes I would recommend either a Honda or a Husqvarna WITH a Kawasaki V2. My Husky (1848XP) is 15+ years old and with little maintenance still starts every time. I've used it mowing 2+ acres over those years. And, of course, Honda is expensive but you get what you pay for. So I guess your budget will help you make the choice. Good luck!


#118

V

V-Tran

I have thrown rods in a Kohler and a Briggs, so we live and learn.
You might take your 4-year-old JD rider to a reliable shop and have them put in another engine of your choosing, new or used if you can get one.
Other than that, I like Snapper and Simplicity products maybe with a Kaw engine, new or used. That's another direction that I would explore. No big box stuff for me. Good mowers aren't cheap and cheap mowers aren't good.


#119

B

Bampy6

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Hi Buddy,
I would stay away from the big box stores, I would go to a place that landscapers buy from and buy a quality product, buy once cry once
Tim


#120

M

MartinR

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Do your self a favour and look at zero turns with a Kawasaki or Vanguard ( Briggs and Stratton Commercial) engine. I would recommend a Ferris but there are plenty of others (nearly) as good out there either sit on, stander or walk behind which will give you a better cut in a fraction of the time and are fun to operate. Grease weekly, regular oil changes, sharpen and balance the blades on a regular basis and the machine will do you well.


#121

T

TobyU

Hi Buddy D, Pleased to read your message re JDs! I'm on the point of buying one……costing me not much less than £2500! Previously I've had a Husqvana with B & S engine. Lasted over 20 years with very little trouble: one new cutting deck, a few new batteries and a few new starter motor gears - the bit at the top of the s. motor. Other than that, it’s been fantastic! Have any other readers got sad stories about JDs? I'd love to know before I part with my cash!
I would call that quite a bit of trouble for the mower actually mainly because of the deck. A lot more deck should never have to be replaced!
How smart is have a very bad tendency of one of the rear deck supports breaking the weld and falling off of the deck.
This is because the bean counters etc have them put one little maybe half inch long weld if you're lucky in two spots on one side only.
If they would actually weld it like any actual professional welder or even a backyard welder would do instead of having some program machine do it that little tiny bit, it would never fail.
The other ways that someone might feeling need to replace a deck I don't understand unless the thing totally rusted out but that's also so rare and if that's the case that means someone is mowing wet grass and or not cleaning the grass underneath and not treating it or maybe spraying the underneath with WD-40 or anything like that or they're using that awful deck wash Port which does far more harm to a machine than good.
I seen a few decks get thin here and there but it's not the entire deck and they can always be patched up with some sheet metal, and old coffee can or license plate or just some of the good metallic HVAC tin foil tape works surprisingly well.
Everything else like spindles either police brackets and stuff can all be replaced and repaired.
So I am a little interested to know why you had to replace the deck and I'm thinking that and most people situations, or a specially in mind, I certainly wouldn't have bought a new deck because a new deck is outrageously high and it comes bare where you have to transfer everything over or buy those new parts too and that's like going to be 300- $400 so that's a no-go for me.

Batteries, of course I make no judgments on because they're all junk now and anything after 3 years is on really borrowed time if you get that long.

The starter gear had something else going on.
Either there was some slight mismatch with the alignment and mesh and it was putting unnecessary pressure on it or it was being cranked excessively every time it started and not starting within 2 to 3 revolutions or under 3 seconds of cranking like it should.
There have been people with mowers who don't realize this is a problem and they are doing about three sets of extended cranking every time they go to mow their grass when they start their mower for the day.
Other people may be in a situation where their mower is started far more than it's really designed to be.
The thing is really designed to be started no more than once a week and use the entire time and then put away.
That's the most common use.
There's only a smaller percentage of people who have to turn off their mower to refuel or who will turn it off between cutting the front and rear lawns or different days etc or those who cut more than one lawn with it but again not the vast majority of people.

Most of those gears are the plastic dark colored one and I will agree they are cheap and junky.
Did you replace them with OEM Briggs & Stratton gear or did you use them from eBay Amazon aftermarket?

I will not buy the brand name starters because they're overpriced and the aftermarket ones work quite nicely, if not better, but the gears are a crapshoot..
There are some good aftermarket ones and some not so good ones so if I ever had one fail under three or four years I would probably just go back to a Briggs & Stratton one and try that one.
Most mowers go their entire 20-year life and never have the gear fail or at most are on there second gear from a big replaced one time.
Anything beyond that has some type of issue that's not in the normal use parameters.

But overall, yes, you're doing pretty decent.
A whole lot of people got 17 to 20 plus years from these consumer grade mowers whether it be husqvarna, Craftsman (which most of those were made by Husqvarna also for that time period), MTD brand products like Troy-Bilt, Cub cadet and even yard machines, or John Deere's.
Now let's don't think for one second that the l, la, d, and E John Deere's are one bit better because they're painted yellow and green and called a John Deere. They are department store mowers sharing most of the same parts as the other brands. They just cost a little more because of the color scheme and the brand. 😆 😂

They have even had more steering gear failures than the MTD products and probably right about the same as the Craftsman's because steering is their weekly too which also applies to Husqvarna but they just don't saturate most markets as well as Craftsman did during the day.

But my point is so many people got this kind of time and service out of these mowers because they were still fairly well built.
I get troy-bilts coming out of regular basis with belts that are 17 years old that are still spinning the blades and still moving the mower. They are cracked to pieces and have big chunks of rubber missing but you could still mow the yard with them!

So you could have had more problems especially if it has a Briggs engine like with compression release, blown head gaskets if it's a single, or if it was a Kohler courage single, the self-destruction because of the improperly torqued/fastened bolts on the top engine case cover.

So I guess you're doing okay but I just come to expect that out of those mowers because they were pretty good.
Most things are getting quite a bit watered down now and we probably won't fare quite as well in the future especially not with walk behind mowers and those new Briggs engines.


#122

RYANS'

RYANS'

This is an interesting thread to someone who is researching what to buy. In our country there is little or no money available to purchase new. So we recycle old mowers. I mow an acre with a 18 inch mower, and it takes a day. With the money I get I pay for rice, veggies and meat. Any leftover I save for my son. Luckily covid hasn't affected us too much and I am still able to walk. If this man needs a lawn mower, I suggest he employ a person like me to cut the grass. This will greatly increase our chances of surviving the next few years.


#123

P

Patrick0525

Both of the failures are due to a poorly designed engine. Nothing to support the end of the compression relief and too much space between the spacing of the head bolts in the valve train area. Though I see more cam failures than head gaskets. Still a bad design. Can't say too much for the Kohler Command engines they use to blow head gaskets as well. Not due to the fault of a poorly designed engine it was a poorly designed head gasket. First time I ever saw one on the Kohler I said it needs a fire ring on the gasket to fix the problem. Guess what they finally did it after about 20 years after I first saw it. They finally put a fire ring on the gasket. Walah the problem fixed. Probibaly the best engine on the market.
When did production add the fire ring?


#124

A

aussielawny

Without plowing through 13 pages, l assume some have made the obvious suggestion to whack a new motor in it......


#125

G

GrantO

Both of the failures are due to a poorly designed engine. Nothing to support the end of the compression relief and too much space between the spacing of the head bolts in the valve train area. Though I see more cam failures than head gaskets. Still a bad design. Can't say too much for the Kohler Command engines they use to blow head gaskets as well. Not due to the fault of a poorly designed engine it was a poorly designed head gasket. First time I ever saw one on the Kohler I said it needs a fire ring on the gasket to fix the problem. Guess what they finally did it after about 20 years after I first saw it. They finally put a fire ring on the gasket. Walah the problem fixed. Probibaly the best engine on the market.
I had a Craftsmen with a Kohler engine. It only ran for 20+ years. In fact, the engine outlasted the mower. After I wore out the mowing deck, I used the tractor for years to pull around a small dump trailer. I currently have a Husqvarna with a Kawasaki engine. Completely trouble free for 3 years now. We'll see how long that lasts.


#126

D

Davenj4f

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Have had 3 Ferris mowers with Kawasaki engines in the last 15 years. The last two were EFI. Have never had any issues or problems. I know Husqvarna puts Kawasaki engines on some of their mowers.


#127

V

Vntg-Gearhead

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
I have 9 hours on my Craftsman T2200 with Kohler 5400 19.5 HP. Got it at the end of last season. It's much better than other non professional mowers I looked at. I've not been a fan of Craftsman because they were generic Husky/Poulan/Craftsman. This one is different.

Likes; real frame, easy adjust deck, very sharp turn radius (does not lock up at full turn), easy to steer, comphy & adjustable seat, cuts in reverse (after you push safety button), fast & smooth hydro drive, 42" deck feels light at the height adjust lever, Kohler engine case splits at the top (verses the prone to loosen split at bottom), no gas cap vent to stink up garage (tank vents to intake which I assume has a jet/orifice somewhere), & more but I don't want to brag on it & jinx it.
Cons; muffler is louder than I'd like.
Edit: the fuel tank vents into the plenum (between carb & A/filter)

I will never again buy a Briggs. The last 2 I had failed. Rod broke on one (NOT due to over heat) & balancer babbit failed on the other (1/2 pressure - 1/2 slinger type). Another BS (bull shit) engine, the case loosened. Had to remove engine to Red Lock Tite new bolts in place. As per my small engine guru buddys, these are common BS issues. If I got a free BS engine, I'd use it then throw away at the first warning of an issue. My broken rod had no warning prior to failure.

Automotive pro for 45 years & 40 years of mostly vintage motorcycles (not Harley's, motorcycles), I've completely rebuilt more engines of many brands & sizes than most mechanics. Major repaired many more. Training was ample enough for me to find the cause of failure & to know what a bad design is.


#128

B

bertsmobile1

Your first mistake is blaming John Deere. That mower is a licensed product from MTD. It is not a John Deere. True John Deere mowers begin with the X300 series and use Yanmar engines. Very reliable. As for the other mowers you list, you are still dealing with MTD as the manufacturer. The only way I would go with one of those is if it had a Honda engine in it. Otherwise, pay the cost, get a real JD or Cub Cadet. If you don’t, then be prepared for years of misery. For reference, I have a John Deere X300, going on about 18 years now. I have had to replace a couple of pulleys, belts, and such, normal wear and tear items, the engine is still going strong.
We have been down this rabbit hole before and unfortunately you are wrong.
The 100 series is the same design as the AYP ( Husqvarna ) mowers to the point that a lot of mower parts are interchangeable
The JD's are built substantially better .
A long time ago an employee of the factory where they are made posted photos from the factory , inside & outside .
In fact they were making some black mowers as well so the same factory was obviously also making mowers for other brands .

The 100 series are better than their equivalent AYP mowers , but still built down to a price so low end stores can sell something that is green & yellow


#129

B

bertsmobile1

This is Rumour Control... These are the facts... :cool:
Yup, for starters, there are so many accurate posts on this thread that I wouldn't know where to start to accurately quote them..
For me, my first experience with a John Deere, was buying one (D-160), from a Big Box Store, when a Landscaping Company was, literally, thrown in my lap. ( Another story for another day).
Having a rip roaring case of O.C.D., I actually read the manual from front to back. Wow!! The manual states that the warrantee, is 2 years, or 120 hours, whichever comes first. Are you 'effin kidding me? If you used it all day, five days a week, that equates to a three week Warrantee!! WTF??
It got more interesting when it came to the Hydro-static trans.. " The drive is sealed, and as such, requires no maintenance.". The drive is a "Tough - Torque" K46.. Now, there's a point to note.. The trans was built to the specs provided by John Deere, who probably saved about a buck, by specifying that there was to be no drain hole in the case. So, at 50 hours, I removed the trans from the tractor, popped off the vent plug, and upended it over a bucket for the night. I then refilled it with Amsoil premium synthetic. The improvement in performance was noticeable. In spite of my O.C.D. scheduled maintenance, it still ate parts on a regular basis. Spindles, despite regular lubrication, self destructed. Etc, Etc.
I got asked why I'd bought that "POS".. My only defence was that I'd relied on the John Deere reputation.. Just because it's green, doesn't mean it's a John Deere.. It's just another cheap POS, sold by your neighbourhood box store.
They're like chainsaws.. when you are at the lowest price point, you get the lowest quality / build that there is. They ( the manufacturers) , just use the name to sell crap products.
The 100 series are RESIDENTIAL mowers so 120 hours or 2 years is about right
Big box store was your first mistake because big box = big profit for the store
They are made by JD & are substantally better than the exact same design ( JD probably pay royalties to AYP ) machines with the AYP brands on them .
Just because you cheaped out on the gear does not mean the gear is trash.
As a foot note I have a couple of the small 225 & 255 ZTRs in my repair run .They were used commercially for 5 years then sold to my customers
Both required substantial repairs to the deck lift but after that was done they have been running fine for the past 5 or so years


#130

V

Vntg-Gearhead

I wanted a Ryobi EV riding mower until I read about so many battery issues they are having. My son in-law has a Ryobi push mower. It's weak & won't cut his 1/2 acre even with an extra battery(s). Takes him 2 after work, afternoons to cut his small lawn. I have/had many other types of Ryobi products that have served me well. Seems their EV batteries are of poor quality & fail prematurely. Also expensive as hell.

I studied the EGO zero turn (w/steering wheel) deeply. Satisfied to the point where I was working out the shipping/delivery with the salesman who was in Indiana (I think). All seemed fine until I couldn't find the answer & no one knew the answer to 1 question. "Does the throttle pedal work variably (potentiometer) or is it on/off"? This was something I didn't want to assume. Based on what I read, it sounded like the speed adjustment in the steering wheel controlled what an on/off throttle pedal would do. It seemed that way & nowhere did it say variable. Watched videos closely & couldn't see a slow smooth launch. Located an EGO service dealer 20 miles from me, I called them. "We don't work on mowers". The next nearest service dealer was 100 miles from me, I didn't bother to call them. OK, I called the salesman again, he gave me the number to tech support. I wanted a clear answer before I dropped $7k. Called tech support & got someone in what sounded like in Pakistan. I could not understand the dabba debba whit what. Maybe 1 out of every 5 words I could understand. Call salesman 1 last time. The "deal breaker", I told him was no service support & the biggie was tech support (basically the lack of both). I was not willing to gamble $7000.00 on high tech with no warranty support. If I had any issues, I'd have to fix it myself (self taught learning curve) & pay out of pocket for parts. Shame, it seemed like such a nice mower.


#131

J

Johnnyboy

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
Normally on a 1/4 acre lot I would recommend something like a Toro TimeMaster self propelled lawnmower that has a 30" deck. But I have had so many problems with mine over the last few years I would have to call it a big piece of junk. Other than the normal drive belts and cable replacements, I have had to replace deck spindles, idler pulley that disintegrated, head gasket, and the killer, a failed transmission that was over $200 and should have been covered under Toro warranty because it was not engineered strong enough for such a heavy machine IMO. But Toro failed me and their customer service is pathetic. So yes it could have been an alternative for some folks with 1/4 to 1/2 acre lots, but I would avoid this machine unless you like your local repair center.


#132

X

X580

Agreed. Our present property is so hilly, I had to shop for a TRANSmission, not a “mower!” (and that’s how I wound up with the TuffTorq K72 (iirc) in our X580)


#133

H

Hexa Fox

Agreed. Our present property is so hilly, I had to shop for a TRANSmission, not a “mower!” (and that’s how I wound up with the TuffTorq K72 (iirc) in our X580)
This thread has gotten so out of control. I know it is normal for a lot of communities but I don't think OP has posted since his first post. I pretty much mow on nothing but hills. I went with a Ferris because their suspension system hands down offers the best ride on the market. However, even though they are very nice reliable machines they are not as reliable on hills. If you are ever shopping for another mower you should look into a Cub Cadet with the Synchro Steer feature. I see people using them like Ventracs and it blows my mind. You can get them in residential or commercial but I would obviously shoot for commercial if money was not an issue. There are plenty of other tractors like Ventracs. A lot of people are getting rid of their 3400 series tractors now because Ventrac has discontinued them and it is scaring people away from them. So you can get a nice AWD machine with plenty of attachments still available cheap.


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