lgt2654 running on one cylinder ideas please

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,718
I inherited two B & S V twins with the stock of used bits from Bert when I bought the business, marked "OK needs new rod"
After pulling them down I could not believe what I saw.
Both had dropped the cap off the end of one con rod and the cap was sitting happily in the bottom of the engine.
Both owners had been using the mowers all the time and did not realize they had been running on one cylinder.
These pistons would move up & down as the engine was cranked due to nothing more then crankcase pressures.
 

gainestruk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2013
Threads
4
Messages
422
I inherited two B & S V twins with the stock of used bits from Bert when I bought the business, marked "OK needs new rod"
After pulling them down I could not believe what I saw.
Both had dropped the cap off the end of one con rod and the cap was sitting happily in the bottom of the engine.
Both owners had been using the mowers all the time and did not realize they had been running on one cylinder.
These pistons would move up & down as the engine was cranked due to nothing more then crankcase pressures.
They were saying I wonder why this thing is low on power :confused2:
 

reynoldston

Lawn Pro
Joined
May 23, 2011
Threads
92
Messages
5,705
don't have a compression tester but I checked for spark by cranking it with a plug touching ground --great spark-((I could hear compression)) though--valve adjust maybe??

If the piston isn't moving I don't think he would hear compression?
 

spanky324

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
17
I have found that the valves were way too tight I loosened them and it runs great !!im now trying to find out how to adjust them the right way as the previous owner must of done this !!Anyone that can tell me how to adjust them right??Thanx Guys for all your help!!(26hp intec twin cyl)
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,718
This is fight material.
B & S tell you to do each cylinder on the firing stroke 1/4" past TDC

Others will do the inlet when the exhaust closes and the exhaust when the inlet just closes
 

gainestruk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2013
Threads
4
Messages
422
With engine cold on compression stroke get piston to top dead center then turn right 1/4 inch so you get past compression release.

loosen the jam nut take a feeler gage on the intake .003 to .005 inch exhaust .005 to .007 inch.
put feeler gage between rocker and top of valve tighten nut till you feel resistance but can steel slide gage back and forth tighten nut and jam nut and re check, I usually go with .004 on intake and .006 on exhaust.

once you get one cylinder finished do the same on other cylinder.
it kinda takes a good touch to get right so don't get discouraged if you need to adjust several times.

good luck :thumbsup:
 

spanky324

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
17
Sorry to seem stupid but which is exhaust and which is intake thanx again guys!!
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,718
Inlet sucks so it opens as the piston is descending.
Exhaust blows so it opens as the piston is ascending.
Usual practice is to put the hotter port ( exhaust ) at the top when it gets the cooling air first.
Always worth while to check with a soft rod poked down the plug hole.

After adjustment turn the engine a few times by hand to check the inlet opens slightly just before TDC.
This is to release the compression for starting.
If it does not do this tighten the valve lash a little more till it does.
 
Top