Kubota 326Z Diesel engine going out

Fatdaddy

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man told me put pump in snug and bump key couple of times.. wish I had a manual...
I read do not turn move the hook up that will mess your timeing up big time..
ill sure check into that TKS
 

Fatdaddy

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I got my new pump and all 3 injectors put on.. I have diesel coming out of the top injectors.. BUT I HAVE DIESEL coming from UNDER ALL 3 injectors.. When he put in the new injectors he took out the old washer put in the new copper washers. But they all are leaking from under.. . So He took out a injector and compared the size of the washer and it is the same.. They are tight as can be... Any Ideals what this might be? It still will not start.... I know im in over my head but I'm here..
David
 

cpurvis

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Call the guy who installed your pump and/or injectors and tell him he's not finished.

Why didn't he start it when he was there?
 

Hammermechanicman

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Is the fuel coming from where the injectors go into the block or from the where the fuel rail meets the upper part of the injector? Did he use all new crush washers?
 

Fatdaddy

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He did try to start it.. No start... yes diesel is coming out from where the injectors where screwed into the block.. yes all washers were new from Taylor Diesel who rebuilt the injectors.. Coming out the same in all 3 injectors... no diesel coming (LEAK) out from where the fuel rail is bolted on..
 
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lugbolt

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the engines internal parts are expensive and there are many. So if a engine needs a rebuild, it's about the same cost to replace it nowadays. A new kubota engine will have all new injectors, pump, lines, starter in many cases, alternator, belt, water pump, basically it's complete enough to start/run it OFF Of the machine (not that I suggest doing that of course).

Kubota injector pumps and injectors RARELY fail without "help". In the 30 years of dealing with them, I think I replaced 1 pump and one injector because they were questionable. I have, however, had to replace many pumps because the owner/operators ran the fuel system dry, and tried to "bleed it" by "cracking the lines loose"--at the pump end. You don't need to do that, ever. That's the wrong way to bleed them and can cost you a pump. People see that stuff on TV mining shows and logging shows and assume it's the right way to do it and it's not. You don't ever bleed them at the lines on Kubota, rather at the bleeder (which apparently nobody knows about?). if you crack the lines at the pump, there is good chance that the delivery valve has been rotated, which damages it/them. That's where I have had to replace a bunch of them over the years. It is fixable but typically the shops that specialize in rebuilding the smaller zexel and bosch pumps charge really close to the same amount to rebuild as it is to just replace it with an OE Kubota replacement pump, and with less downtime.

and on kubota, one should never (EVER) spray anything down the intake while cranking the engine. That is almost a guarantee to bend one or more rods regardless of what you spray in there whether it be diesel starting fluid gasoline pee, water, beer, def, etc.

While reading the comments I noticed a lot of "diesel mechanics". Though, I haven't seen too many folks tell you to check the engine compression. I would bet that you have low compression on at least one cylinder. Most folks don't have a compression tester for kubota engines, so most folks "ASSume" it's "good". 300 psi won't run. On that engine it needs to be close to double that. At 400 they're very very weak, typically smoke until warmed up and then they're running but low on power.

The original post said low power and smoke. I'm going out on a limb and guessing that the compression is weak on one or more cylinders. The usual cause on these is overheating. Overheating also cracks the head a majority of the time. The result of low compression is that the engine might run on one or two cylinders but it's still pumping fuel into all 3, just not burning it, so that fuel is pumped into, then it's blown out (because it isn't combusted) through the exhaust system as white or sometimes almost a bluish smoke. And then--usually the "internet diesel mechanics" show up and tell you that you have a bad pump or injector, which is, again, very rare with Kubota engines. Normally it's another problem and replacing the pump/injector wasn't the only repair made, but that is never told...typical of internet forums, you never get the whole story.
 

mechanic mark

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Suggestion from former Diesel Mechanic of 11 & 1/2 yrs. If you plan on keeping your Kubota & maintaining it yourself, purchase Kubota Shop Repair Manual for your Model & read it. When I worked for Ryder we replaced all injectors at 144000 miles adjusted valves & injectors as well as replaced water pump, alternator, starter, rebuilt fan hub, turbocharger rebuild, etc. Preventive Maintenance is the key in keeping equipment, vehicles, airplanes, etc. running. Weigh your options in keeping your 14 year old Kubota running vs. purchasing a new one. I'm retired & will be 68 end of May & fortunate to have two grown sons to help me out when need be.
 
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Fatdaddy

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Suggestion from former Diesel Mechanic of 11 & 1/2 yrs. If you plan on keeping your Kubota & maintaining it yourself, purchase Kubota Shop Repair Manual for your Model & read it. When I worked for Ryder we replaced all injectors at 144000 miles adjusted valves & injectors as well as replaced water pump, alternator, starter, rebuilt fan hub, turbocharger rebuild, etc. Preventive Maintenance is the key in keeping equipment, vehicles, airplanes, etc. running. Weigh your options in keeping your 14 year old Kubota running vs. purchasing a new one. I'm retired & will be 68 end of May & fortunate to have two grown sons to help me out when need be.
Mark are the fellow who lives near Jackson that I did talk to about my mower? You said you have been to Lebanon before.. I told you I MIGHT come see you.. Sir I still have not got my mower going...I sure would like to bring to you for you just to see if you can get it going.
David
731-695-5658
 
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