Kohler ignition

[cambre]

If you don't have a fuel solenoid on the carb. The only wires you need is the wire from the battery to the B terminal of the key switch. The wire from the S on the key switch to the small terminal on the solenoid, and a wire from the M terminal to the ignition module to kill the engine. Depending on the type of ignition on the engine. You may need a hot wire from the key switch to the ignition modules on the ASAM and DSAM type ignitions.

Thanks ilengine: It does have a fuel solenoid on the carb. I understand I can use the L terminal for that. Thanks for the help. Things starting to make since.

 

[cambre]

Most of the metal key switches are internal earth, plus G (ground) unless mounted in plastic or the switch is plastic. The solenoid would need to go to the L terminal because the A terminal wouldn't be hot in the start position. That was the reason I didn't discuss the ground side of the switch.

Thanks again ilengine.

 

[cambre]

And an earth connection to the ignition switch so you can turn it off.

Most switches are marked on the back.
B= battery +12v feed
S= solenoid, 12 V to trip the starter solenoid
M =magneto, the small wire from the ignition coil
G= ground which connects to M when the ignition is off
The fuel solenoid needs a 12V feed from the A or L terminals on the ignition switch,

Good to hear from you bertsmobile1: Thanks for the help. I think all this is finally starting to sink in. I have always had trouble with wiring and wanted to learn how to wire this thing. Thanks to this forum and every ones help it will get done.

 

[motoman]

Cambre, It is heartening to see this support. If I may..."hot wire" is +12V (12 volts).

 

[ILENGINE]

Cambre, I find wiring is also my weak point. Being colorblind doesn't help either. Sometimes I have to do just what you are doing. Just ignore the colors and trace where they are suppose to go. I have found more than one supposed wiring diagram that either was incorrect, or the wire colors on the mower don't match what is on the diagram. Most key switches have the L terminal hot in both the run and start positions, You just need to find the terminal that meets that requirement.

 

[motoman]

Cambre , One good rule if you can is that no "hot" wire (battery voltage 12 v ) ever goes to ground (chassis return to battery) with out a load being included . Like a bulb or starter motor , or solenoid. If that happens the battery will supply all it can to the wire like an arc welder, melting its insulation and all around it. If in doubt an inline fuse can always be installed which will blow and protect the circuit . Not saying to put an inline on every wire; when I added an oil cooler fan on my Intek I put in a 10 amp inline fuse knowing that the fan needed 3.5 amps to run. It has never blown, but if e.g., the insulation should fray and let the wire touch (chassis) ground the fuse will blow and not melt wiring, IL ENG is right about misleading schematics, another obstacle.

 

[cambre]

And an earth connection to the ignition switch so you can turn it off.

Most switches are marked on the back.
B= battery +12v feed
S= solenoid, 12 V to trip the starter solenoid
M =magneto, the small wire from the ignition coil
G= ground which connects to M when the ignition is off
The fuel solenoid needs a 12V feed from the A or L terminals on the ignition switch,

Thanks bertsmobile1, So the wire from the coil goes to the M terminal on the ignition switch. Does the G terminal and the M terminal connect inside the ignition switch when it is off? I got the ignition switch working where it cranks the engine. No need to jump solenoid to start it. The solenoid on the carb works off the L terminal like you said it would. What do I do with the G terminal on the ignition switch? Thanks for all your help. The schematics I can find are not color coded and not numbered. I knew I was in trouble when all the wires fused together but I knew the people on this forum would help me. I imagine some of the guys are tired of seeing me post on this problem. Thanks

 

[reynoldston]

I have found more than one supposed wiring diagram that either was incorrect, or the wire colors on the mower don't match what is on the diagram.

This is the reason you need the right diagram.. For some reason the manufactures will change wiring from one model or serial number to the next. This is the reason I have always said you need the year it was made and model. There must be a reason for this that I don't know???

 

[cambre]

This is the reason you need the right diagram.. For some reason the manufactures will change wiring from one model or serial number to the next. This is the reason I have always said you need the year it was made and model. There must be a reason for this that I don't know???

This engine is over 8 yrs old and has been retired by Kohler yrs ago. The mower model # is 107.287910. The engine is an SV735-0018. This model # is no help to me when I try to find any info on the mower or the engine. The PDFs show all different kinds of engine electrical set ups, some with regular air gap coils, DSAM coils and DSAI coils of witch I think I have the DSAI coils. Thanks for all your help reynoldston.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Thanks bertsmobile1, So the wire from the coil goes to the M terminal on the ignition switch. Does the G terminal and the M terminal connect inside the ignition switch when it is off? I got the ignition switch working where it cranks the engine. No need to jump solenoid to start it. The solenoid on the carb works off the L terminal like you said it would. What do I do with the G terminal on the ignition switch? Thanks for all your help. The schematics I can find are not color coded and not numbered. I knew I was in trouble when all the wires fused together but I knew the people on this forum would help me. I imagine some of the guys are tired of seeing me post on this problem. Thanks

Yes,
M connects to G which EARTHS out the ignition and stop the engine.
So you can double check this.
In all positions except off G & M should not connect.
Off G & M are connected.
Tripple check that there is no voltage at the terminal you think is G because if you put 12V down the magneto wire it will stop,,,, for good, fried like Sunday morning bacon.