Kohler cv16 Command only runs with partial choke

teseal

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Engine will die in seconds if the choke is opened completely, cold or warm. New carb, carb shutoff bypassed, new filter, new pump, replace fuel line, new head and manifold gaskets, fresh gas, new spark plug, will only start with full choke even when engine is warm. The guy I bought this cub cadet 2166 from said the unit had only sat for about 6-8 months. (BS for sure). Said there was no spark because the coil was bad. Installed new coil still no spark problem was the SAM which was replaced with a used unit to provide spark. The carb and fuel pump were so rotted they had to be replace, fuel line was cracked and leaking so alot of the repairs were related to just getting to the point where I could try the engine.

This doesn't seem to be the normal not getting fuel problem causing to run lean. Spraying carb cleaner, does not show any air leaks. The choke is only slightly closed, to much and it will also shut down. With the right choke setting it will throttle up and sound normal.

So the question is, What does enriching the fuel/air mixture with the choke overcome to allow it to run?
 

mechanic mark

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Scroll down to CV16 click & pull up Service Manual see Section 5.
 

teseal

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Thanks for your attention Mark. I do have a service manual and been thro it, sorry is a horizontal shaft, my mistake. I didn’t want to be to detailed originally but let me add this to the mix. I did have a new carb for this engine that was installed after the work in the fuel delivery system before trying to start this engine. When it was first started and run it did not have the choke problem, governor required adjustment, then only ran it long enough to get the mower deck repaired and working and check out the drive, maybe 30min. Next time I started it the choke problem came up. Although the carb at that time was new I did remove and check it out. Looked good but still a problem. Off again and raised the fuel level in the bowl, same results. Thought may have a restriction in the paths under the w plug but purchasing repair parts for the carb was nearly as expensive as as buying a new one. Got the new carb installed and the symptoms were identical. I will check the new carb float level and recheck the governor adjustment but think it’s shot in the dark. I don’t know where else to look in the fuel/air system after that,?????
 

mechanic mark

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Post model & serial #'s from mower, mower manufacturer, part number for new carburetor, thanks Mark
 
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teseal

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Info you requested and an update; Cub Cadet Model 2166 - 13A-214G100, Mfg Code 1B182G30149 Carb PN KH-12-853-93. (I have the carb with the adjustable idle jet) I did check that carb out and found the float level was way low. When the float valve seat was installed into the casting it wasn't pressed in far enough. I pressed it down until the float was parallel to the gasket surface. After re installing the ignition stopped firing before I got the carb full. Seems the battery volts dropped to low during cranking for the SAM to work properly. Been on the charger overnight and I will get a chance to retry later today to see if the carb adjustment helped.
 

teseal

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Looks like another problem to chase down with the ignition. Battery is charged, voltage doesn't drop more than a couple volts cranking the engine with the plug out (measured at the battery), should be ok for the SAM. What is interesting though is it will spark once when I first start cranking and no spark during cranking then when I stop cranking most of the time there will be one very weak spark. Guess I will need to check the all the wiring connections.
 

mechanic mark

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See page 134 & following in Service Manual. Perform electrical troubleshooting with multimeter per Manual & let us know what you find, thanks Mark
 

teseal

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It will be a few days before I get on it but I will. Thx
 

teseal

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It rained today so I spend some time poking around in that ignition ckt. I think the page number you referred to is from a manual for a newer model, it referred to the RMC which is not on mine. It has the “Smart Spark” as they refer to it or the SAM module and no RMC unit. My manual only has 116 pages. I went thro most of the procedure in the manual I have, disassembled all the wire harness connectors and terminals to clean, inspected the wiring (did find some mouse teeth marks) and grd connections, but nothing serious. Retested and symptoms were the same, one strong spark when I first crack it over with none during cranking and most often a very weak spark just after I release the starter. Cold checks were a bit concerning when measured with my digital meter so I retested with my analog one as well, (see chart). The test would indicate a bad unit but it is brand new and the symptoms seem to more relate to the SAM than the coil (?) The SAM voltage does remain above the required min (7.2v) for proper operation. The SAM is a used unit but it did run the engine for a short time.

Without any input otherwise, I will order and replace the coil. It’s a bit more of a project with the horiz shaft compared to vert but it's only a fraction of the cost.

Ignition Module Cold Tests
spec​
digital meter​
analog meter​
plug wire to laminates​
3800-4400​
3700​
4000​
output to ignition to laminates​
900-1000​
596​
700​
input from coil to laminates​
145-160​
397​
400​
 

VegetiveSteam

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When you say you bypassed the carb shutoff are you meaning the solenoid on the carb?
 
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