Kawasaki FX850V failed with just 2.9hr of use.

[lugbolt]

oil additives are kinda important

cars are what most oils are designed for, and they have completely different sets of additives for them--and often lack additives that other types of engines need.

flat tappet cams are no longer used in cars, thus the reduction of ZDDP in automotive-specific lubricating fluids. It was actually a mandate set forth by our illustrious federal government to reduce ZDDP, which the side effect of that was that flat-tappets and the cams that they ride against are very sensitive, often fail in automotive applications--without the proper amount of ZDDP additive. But not many use them anymore, and possibly for that reason alone.

Lawn mowers still use flat tappet camshafts, as do some atv's and side-by-sides, so they need all the help they can get-especially air cooled engines! For that, you'd be wise to use some break-in oil, or even the additive that you can buy specifically for flat tappet camshaft break-in. Once they're broken in, meaning the wear patterns are set, it's not as critical.

And on a lawn mower engine-which has really weak valve springs in comparison to automotive (especially high performance) applications so it may not be needed-check with the engine manufacturer. I am pretty sure Kubota doesn't specifiy needing any additives and they pretty much all use flat faced tappets, both gas and diesel.

 

[ILENGINE]

oil additives are kinda important

cars are what most oils are designed for, and they have completely different sets of additives for them--and often lack additives that other types of engines need.

flat tappet cams are no longer used in cars, thus the reduction of ZDDP in automotive-specific lubricating fluids. It was actually a mandate set forth by our illustrious federal government to reduce ZDDP, which the side effect of that was that flat-tappets and the cams that they ride against are very sensitive, often fail in automotive applications--without the proper amount of ZDDP additive. But not many use them anymore, and possibly for that reason alone.

Lawn mowers still use flat tappet camshafts, as do some atv's and side-by-sides, so they need all the help they can get-especially air cooled engines! For that, you'd be wise to use some break-in oil, or even the additive that you can buy specifically for flat tappet camshaft break-in. Once they're broken in, meaning the wear patterns are set, it's not as critical.

And on a lawn mower engine-which has really weak valve springs in comparison to automotive (especially high performance) applications so it may not be needed-check with the engine manufacturer. I am pretty sure Kubota doesn't specifiy needing any additives and they pretty much all use flat faced tappets, both gas and diesel.

Not a single small engine manufacturer recommends the use of break in oil. And some even specifically say do not use break in oil.

 

[clubairth]

You bring up a good point that I tried to find out? What is the Zinc and Phosphorus level in the oil your using?
I am a Mobil 1 fan and they make a wide range of products. After much searching I found the attached spec. sheet for Mobil 1. I have been wanting to try the 15W-50 in the engine as that is what I run in the Hydro's and it would be nice to use the same stuff in both.

Turns out the Mobil 1 15W-50 is a high Zinc oil at 1300 ppm as well as high Phosphorus at 1200 ppm.
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[Scrubcadet10]

15 hours is about the median run time for the break in oil... Some Kawasaki ATV/UTV's go up to 50 hours on break in oil.... I always use Manufacturer recommended or brand oil for the break in of equipment,

 

[alloutdoors]

It is a mechanical device, so things can go wrong. Thankfully it was under warranty! I would run it wide open and change the oil per the recommendation of the dealer.

 

[ILENGINE]

15 hours is about the median run time for the break in oil... Some Kawasaki ATV/UTV's go up to 50 hours on break in oil.... I always use Manufacturer recommended or brand oil for the break in of equipment,

Break in oil is not really a good description of the initial in the engine. Break in oil contains abrasive material that is designed to polish surfaces to get parts to seat together better. True break in oil is a bad thing where aluminum parts run together because the abrasives will get embedded into the aluminum.

 

[Carl.Cook]

Break-in Oil. I retired from aviation where break-in oil is used on most all combustion engine rebuilds including ground support equipment powered by small industrial engines. I recently discussed the issue with an engineer with excellent knowledge of oils and engines. He said break-in oils are misunderstood but still used today. It is regular oil with anti-friction additives removed or reduced to seat rings and other additives adjusted for flat lifters. Manufactures determine which grade to use based on expected use with rpm and temperature being major factors. First recommended oil change is usually based on which grade is used. Oils provided with new equipment are blended for break-in and should be changed as stated in the manual and refilled with recommended oil.

 

[bertsmobile1]

There is a reason why there are mower oils, motorcycle oils ,car oils, LPG oils, Diesel oils, Tractor oils ,Truck oils & earthmoving oils .
Yet every body seems to think they know better than the experts who blend the stuff to counter a specific set of operational problems .
Mower oils are designed for air cooled engines that are laid up for long times between uses and often run for such short a time they do not boil off the moisture that has condensed while they were not in use .
While is sounds Oh so intelligent to talk about flat tappets, curved tappets rolling tappets etc etc etc , there are more than one part to tappet on cam wear and rubbing pressure is a big one
Motor vehicle valve springs are orders of magnitude heavier than mower engine valve springs .
I am yet to pull own a mower engine and find pressure feed to the cam followers and of course vertical shaft engine usually have vertical cams so they have no dipping well either
As found in older motorcycle / automotive engines .
So please take all the junk that you read on face book car channels that have ZERO cross significance to mower engines and keep it there to titilate all of the other armchair experts .

As for using car oils because that is all you have , then go ahead, it will not kill your engine prematurely .
It will not make the engine run any better either but it is convienant for you.
Just remember to change the oil at the end of every season so the engine has fresh clean oil in it over winter when corrosion is likely to occur .

 

[fixit1ddh]

I find that any oil will work fine. But the problem I have always seen is running them low on oil. I have yet to see a engine go to crap if the engine oil was always checked and topped off when needed. But seen lots of engines running expensive oil running low crankcase level. The engines was junk.