Export thread

Started my third cut with my new X One when the engine started running rough and heavy smoke from exhaust. Inspected the engine and checked oil, all was fine. Restarted and engine would not increase on rpm past idle, which was rough and exhaust smoke. Engine started making loud noise and spitting small metal parts from exhaust. I assumed broken rings and dealer will replace engine. Dealer recommended running 15 hours on break-in oil, but that sounds like a bit too long and suspect that may have been the problem. With the new engine I plan to run break-in oil at half throttle for about 1-2 hours and changing to regular oil. Will welcome any comments and debate.

I don't know anybody that actually uses break in oil, other than racing folks. I suspect it is just regular motor oil. and 15 hours is not excessive. Most engine manufacturers have done away with the first break in oil change if the engine contains an oil filter, which is most cases is 50-100 hours.. And if air cooled needs to be run a full throttle for proper cooling. Engine will actually run hotter at half throttle under load.

Run it wide open for cooling. A special break in oil is not really necessary. Pick a good oil that is high in zinc and phosphorus. Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic, Motorcraft Super Duty 15W40, Rotella T5 15W40. Use a quality oil filter.

Sorry to hear about the failure. Post back with what happened if you can?
Don't hear many engines that die that early.
.
.
.

On Kawi engines, you park the oil dipstick on TOP of the tube threads when checking oil level. Never screw it all the way down. Check your engine manual for more info.

Could of been low on oil??

The only reoccuring failure I have come across on those engines is a pushrod dropping into the engine because the single nut that retains the pushrod housing came loose.
In every case bar one Kawakasi just sent me a new head after I posted the dead one back to them + gaskets & oil.
I am not a Kawakasi dealer but my wholesaler is.
So I got no credit for the labour but did it gratiis because I have supplied all but one engine.
So from then on, I check every new Kawkasi engine and fit rocker cover gaskets so I can prove that the covers had at least been taken off .

Carl.Cook said:

Started my third cut with my new X One when the engine started running rough and heavy smoke from exhaust. Inspected the engine and checked oil, all was fine. Restarted and engine would not increase on rpm past idle, which was rough and exhaust smoke. Engine started making loud noise and spitting small metal parts from exhaust. I assumed broken rings and dealer will replace engine. Dealer recommended running 15 hours on break-in oil, but that sounds like a bit too long and suspect that may have been the problem. With the new engine I plan to run break-in oil at half throttle for about 1-2 hours and changing to regular oil. Will welcome any comments and debate.

Click to expand...

Warranty replaced engine after catastrophic failure of one cylinder. Dealer determined valve spring broke and dropped valve in cylinder.

I'll take the old engine. Even pay for shipping.

and that is exactly what warranty is there for. To protect you, the consumer, from defects in manufacturing. Kawasaki is usually pretty good with warranties. Just don't try to pull a fast one on them, e.g., let the gas sit in the tank for a year or so then claim a 'bad carburetor". I've been through this, and much more.

Hey that's great the Kawasaki stood behind their product. Shame the engine ate itself but that was not your fault.
.
.
.

oil additives are kinda important

cars are what most oils are designed for, and they have completely different sets of additives for them--and often lack additives that other types of engines need.

flat tappet cams are no longer used in cars, thus the reduction of ZDDP in automotive-specific lubricating fluids. It was actually a mandate set forth by our illustrious federal government to reduce ZDDP, which the side effect of that was that flat-tappets and the cams that they ride against are very sensitive, often fail in automotive applications--without the proper amount of ZDDP additive. But not many use them anymore, and possibly for that reason alone.

Lawn mowers still use flat tappet camshafts, as do some atv's and side-by-sides, so they need all the help they can get-especially air cooled engines! For that, you'd be wise to use some break-in oil, or even the additive that you can buy specifically for flat tappet camshaft break-in. Once they're broken in, meaning the wear patterns are set, it's not as critical.

And on a lawn mower engine-which has really weak valve springs in comparison to automotive (especially high performance) applications so it may not be needed-check with the engine manufacturer. I am pretty sure Kubota doesn't specifiy needing any additives and they pretty much all use flat faced tappets, both gas and diesel.

lugbolt said:

oil additives are kinda important

cars are what most oils are designed for, and they have completely different sets of additives for them--and often lack additives that other types of engines need.

flat tappet cams are no longer used in cars, thus the reduction of ZDDP in automotive-specific lubricating fluids. It was actually a mandate set forth by our illustrious federal government to reduce ZDDP, which the side effect of that was that flat-tappets and the cams that they ride against are very sensitive, often fail in automotive applications--without the proper amount of ZDDP additive. But not many use them anymore, and possibly for that reason alone.

Lawn mowers still use flat tappet camshafts, as do some atv's and side-by-sides, so they need all the help they can get-especially air cooled engines! For that, you'd be wise to use some break-in oil, or even the additive that you can buy specifically for flat tappet camshaft break-in. Once they're broken in, meaning the wear patterns are set, it's not as critical.

And on a lawn mower engine-which has really weak valve springs in comparison to automotive (especially high performance) applications so it may not be needed-check with the engine manufacturer. I am pretty sure Kubota doesn't specifiy needing any additives and they pretty much all use flat faced tappets, both gas and diesel.

Click to expand...

Not a single small engine manufacturer recommends the use of break in oil. And some even specifically say do not use break in oil.

You bring up a good point that I tried to find out? What is the Zinc and Phosphorus level in the oil your using?
I am a Mobil 1 fan and they make a wide range of products. After much searching I found the attached spec. sheet for Mobil 1. I have been wanting to try the 15W-50 in the engine as that is what I run in the Hydro's and it would be nice to use the same stuff in both.

Turns out the Mobil 1 15W-50 is a high Zinc oil at 1300 ppm as well as high Phosphorus at 1200 ppm.
.
.
.

15 hours is about the median run time for the break in oil... Some Kawasaki ATV/UTV's go up to 50 hours on break in oil.... I always use Manufacturer recommended or brand oil for the break in of equipment,

It is a mechanical device, so things can go wrong. Thankfully it was under warranty! I would run it wide open and change the oil per the recommendation of the dealer.

Scrubcadet10 said:

15 hours is about the median run time for the break in oil... Some Kawasaki ATV/UTV's go up to 50 hours on break in oil.... I always use Manufacturer recommended or brand oil for the break in of equipment,

Click to expand...

Break in oil is not really a good description of the initial in the engine. Break in oil contains abrasive material that is designed to polish surfaces to get parts to seat together better. True break in oil is a bad thing where aluminum parts run together because the abrasives will get embedded into the aluminum.

Break-in Oil. I retired from aviation where break-in oil is used on most all combustion engine rebuilds including ground support equipment powered by small industrial engines. I recently discussed the issue with an engineer with excellent knowledge of oils and engines. He said break-in oils are misunderstood but still used today. It is regular oil with anti-friction additives removed or reduced to seat rings and other additives adjusted for flat lifters. Manufactures determine which grade to use based on expected use with rpm and temperature being major factors. First recommended oil change is usually based on which grade is used. Oils provided with new equipment are blended for break-in and should be changed as stated in the manual and refilled with recommended oil.

There is a reason why there are mower oils, motorcycle oils ,car oils, LPG oils, Diesel oils, Tractor oils ,Truck oils & earthmoving oils .
Yet every body seems to think they know better than the experts who blend the stuff to counter a specific set of operational problems .
Mower oils are designed for air cooled engines that are laid up for long times between uses and often run for such short a time they do not boil off the moisture that has condensed while they were not in use .
While is sounds Oh so intelligent to talk about flat tappets, curved tappets rolling tappets etc etc etc , there are more than one part to tappet on cam wear and rubbing pressure is a big one
Motor vehicle valve springs are orders of magnitude heavier than mower engine valve springs .
I am yet to pull own a mower engine and find pressure feed to the cam followers and of course vertical shaft engine usually have vertical cams so they have no dipping well either
As found in older motorcycle / automotive engines .
So please take all the junk that you read on face book car channels that have ZERO cross significance to mower engines and keep it there to titilate all of the other armchair experts .

As for using car oils because that is all you have , then go ahead, it will not kill your engine prematurely .
It will not make the engine run any better either but it is convienant for you.
Just remember to change the oil at the end of every season so the engine has fresh clean oil in it over winter when corrosion is likely to occur .

I find that any oil will work fine. But the problem I have always seen is running them low on oil. I have yet to see a engine go to crap if the engine oil was always checked and topped off when needed. But seen lots of engines running expensive oil running low crankcase level. The engines was junk.