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Agree with slomo... The service limit is the service L I M I T..
Kawasaki FR691V cam lobes with ball bearing
- Thread starter Rocket Surgeon
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Rocket Surgeon
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I see that the cup and six ball bearings, that I previously asked about, are the governor mechanism.
I note that neither the crank case cover and/or cam installation proceedures mention any special process to engage the two "fingers" on the governor shaft into the cam shaft.
Is it correct that the crank cover is just set on top of the crank case without a procedure to engage the governor's "fingers"?
Thanks.
I note that neither the crank case cover and/or cam installation proceedures mention any special process to engage the two "fingers" on the governor shaft into the cam shaft.
Is it correct that the crank cover is just set on top of the crank case without a procedure to engage the governor's "fingers"?
Thanks.
cpurvis
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I doubt it. When you took the cover off, did you have to 'disengage' the fingers? I would think so, because the governor has to be able to pull as well as push the linkage to the throttle shaft unless either the 'push' or 'pull' is taken care of by a spring or something similar.
bertsmobile1
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Governor can only push the spring between the throttle & governor pushes .
Rocket Surgeon
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When I removed the crank case cover, the cam + governor assembply just lifted out of the case. The fingered governor plate stayed attached to the governor control lever, which is part of the cover.
I completed reassembly of the motor today, fired it up, and the behavior has not changed...still lots of white smoke.
Will look at the valves tomorrow. Grrrrrr.
I completed reassembly of the motor today, fired it up, and the behavior has not changed...still lots of white smoke.
Will look at the valves tomorrow. Grrrrrr.
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Rocket Surgeon
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I previously asked about the possibility of the valve push rod pocket with a hole in the bottom (next to the tappet),that had the bottom knocked out by the loose push rod, allowing enough oil to get into the valve cover to enable it to leak through the valve shaft seals and into the cylinder.
Didn't get a response when asked....any takers now?
Didn't get a response when asked....any takers now?
Was this the engine that had 180psi in compression? And the piston was DOWN in the bore with the cam dots lined up? Didn't want to go through all the pages again. It was a Kawasaki FC150 wasn't it?
I just thought of something. When you RETARD the camshaft, you make it easier to start the engine. It dumps cylinder pressure. So was that piston position so many degrees AFTER TDC with the cam dots inlline? That didn't make sense. TDC is TDC. I bet once at running speeds, the cam moves back to normal TDC with the cam dots inline. That final condition would restore cylinder pressure and good running power. What do you guys think? That funky ACR must be adjusting cam timing???
slomo
I just thought of something. When you RETARD the camshaft, you make it easier to start the engine. It dumps cylinder pressure. So was that piston position so many degrees AFTER TDC with the cam dots inlline? That didn't make sense. TDC is TDC. I bet once at running speeds, the cam moves back to normal TDC with the cam dots inline. That final condition would restore cylinder pressure and good running power. What do you guys think? That funky ACR must be adjusting cam timing???
slomo
Rocket Surgeon
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cpuvis: There is no oil in the muffler, except what is coming from the cylinder.
slomo: Yes, this is the 180 psi compression engine, a Kawasaki FR691V. The ACR does not adjust the timing rather, it temporarily opens one of the valves on each cylinder to reduce the compression...not sure whether it is intake or exhaust. The ACR is a simply weight system that allows a ball bearing to protrude above the normal cam lobe height at low startup rpm, therby bumping the valve open when it would normally be closed. Once the cam speed throws the weight out, a channel opens up to retract the ball bearings so that the tappet follows the normal cam lobe profile. The ACR appears to be operating normally There is no mechanism to retard the camshaft, as it is geared directly to the crankshaft at a 2:1 ratio (4 stroke). The two gears have always been aligned, and I ensured they remained so when I reassembled the engine.
I removed the muffler to eliminate the mixing of the exhaust gasses from the two cylinders, and only the number two cylinder is smoking. This is the cylinder with the hole knocked in the valve push rod pocket (next to the top of the tappet), caused by the bent valve push rod. However, I don't see how any oil coming through the hole is getting through the valve stem seals into the cylinder.
I will look for a shop capable of repairing the valve push rod pocket, if possible, this week. If unable to find, I'll shop for a replacement block and rebuild the motor.
Fyi, here is a link to the hillbilly mechanic video that I mentioned earlier. He repairs a similar problem: bent push rod with the punched out pocket. Provided in case you want to review it to see the punched out pocket I've been describing.
Hillbilly mechanic.
slomo: Yes, this is the 180 psi compression engine, a Kawasaki FR691V. The ACR does not adjust the timing rather, it temporarily opens one of the valves on each cylinder to reduce the compression...not sure whether it is intake or exhaust. The ACR is a simply weight system that allows a ball bearing to protrude above the normal cam lobe height at low startup rpm, therby bumping the valve open when it would normally be closed. Once the cam speed throws the weight out, a channel opens up to retract the ball bearings so that the tappet follows the normal cam lobe profile. The ACR appears to be operating normally There is no mechanism to retard the camshaft, as it is geared directly to the crankshaft at a 2:1 ratio (4 stroke). The two gears have always been aligned, and I ensured they remained so when I reassembled the engine.
I removed the muffler to eliminate the mixing of the exhaust gasses from the two cylinders, and only the number two cylinder is smoking. This is the cylinder with the hole knocked in the valve push rod pocket (next to the top of the tappet), caused by the bent valve push rod. However, I don't see how any oil coming through the hole is getting through the valve stem seals into the cylinder.
I will look for a shop capable of repairing the valve push rod pocket, if possible, this week. If unable to find, I'll shop for a replacement block and rebuild the motor.
Fyi, here is a link to the hillbilly mechanic video that I mentioned earlier. He repairs a similar problem: bent push rod with the punched out pocket. Provided in case you want to review it to see the punched out pocket I've been describing.
Hillbilly mechanic.
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