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Greetings to all, new member here.
I am working on a Kawasaki FR691V 23 hp 2 cylinder engine, and after dismantling it and removing the cam shaft, have found that the two lobes nearest the PTO each have a single ball-bearing on the bearing surface of the lobe.

I repaired a bent pushrod, adjusted the valve clearance, and reassembled the engine. When I started it, it ran roughly and smoked. I removed the valve covers, checked the valve clearance, and all looked good. As I cycled the motor by hand, and watched the valve train operate, I noticed a little "jiggle" in one of the cylinder's valve operation...instead of a clean opening and closing of the valves. Since I didn't understand this behavior, and it was smoking, I thought perhaps I'd broken a ring or skipped a tooth on the timing gear on the cam, or perhaps a damaged cam lobe...so I removed the motor and opened the case.

The good news...and the bad news, is....I see no damage inside, no metal flakes, cam and crank are aligned, motor looks brand new, and all is good.

At this point I'm not sure what is going on, but I discovered that the "bump" in the valve train is undoubtedly being caused by these ball-bearings on the two cam lobes. Perhaps used to pop the valves open prior to the normal valve cycle.

I'll post later on the underlying engine problem if necessary, but for now, can anyone tell me what these cam lobe ball-bearings are all about? I searched Google extensively and found nothing.

I can post a photo of the cam lobes with ball-bearings if helpful.

Thanks for any input.

The camshaft has an ACR (Automatic Compression Release) system. The design that Kawasaki design operates on both valves (off the top of my head I don't remember if it the exhaust or intake valves; though it seems to be the exhaust valves). If you look closer you see the ACR parts which contains six more steel balls besides the two you noted along a spring and retaining system. Here is a exploded view of the camshaft. IF you only see movement in only one the two valves at near TDC of the related cylinder's compression stroke then there is a problem is the camshaft.

Ahhh, I understand. The cam you have pictured appears to be what I am dealing with, and I have noticed the additional six ball bearings that you mentioned. Thank you for that input.

One thing I noticed is that the intake and exhaust valves cycle normally on one cycle, and then return to the closed position. In this closed position they reflect the .004 valve clearance that I set. However, during the next cycle, they become loose, with a clearance well beyond the .004 value. Is this normal behavior? Fyi, the push rods and valves are new.

A separate issue is that the compression tests unusually high (IMO) at 180 psi, in both cylinders. The local Husqvarna shop says this is ok. I'd be interested in additional opinions.

The motor originally started sounding funny, so I opened it up to have a look see. I found a loose rocker bracket and bent push rod. It appeared as though the rocker bracket retaining bolt had come loose, and allowed the rod to bend as it jumped from the pocket on the end of the rocker. There is a nub in the head casting designed to restrict the rocker bracket from rotating, and this nub was sheared off of the casting, allowing the bracket to rotate out of position, and to bend the push rod.

I reassembled the head, and used red locktite on the rocker bolt. It ran like a top for one season. (750 hours total time).

Recently, the mower exhibited a sudden loss of power and began smoking out of the exhaust (I would call the color of the smoke light blue, smells like oil). On the assumption that it might be a oil ring issue, I began disassembly.

When I removed the valve covers, I found that the same cylinder as before had bent the same push rod, and that the rocker bracket was again out of position. I guessed that the locktite didn't hold. I replaced the head with a new one, with the retaining nub intact, and reassembled with a new push rod. I did notice that the loose push rod had apparently knocked a hole in the floor of the block pocket containing the push rod, but the loose rod somehow didn't fall into the block. After reassembly, the motor ran roughly and still smoked. I found the valves to be heavily fouled and the plugs to be wet.

At that point, because of the valve behavior, apparently related to the compression release mechanism, I suspected that the loose aluminum from the bottom of the pocket, or perhaps a damaged tappet, had messed with the cam. I've now put the engine on the bench, and removed the case cover, cam and tappets. Everything looks normal, and I'll check the cam specifications to be sure.

I'll now pull the pistons and check the rings, though I seems unlikely to me (limited experience) that they are the problem with the engine having such strong compression.

Thanks in advance for any input.

I wish I could be of further help but my experience on Kawasaki engine is limited too. I do know however the the lower 6 ball assembly is the governor for the engine as I had one on a customer engine last year.

It does sound something is flakey with the ACR on the camshaft as the normal cranking compression should be much lower with a working ACR. Maybe it spring is missing.

180PSI at cranking, you better have a hoss battery and starter. Pull starting, good luck.

slomo

Look up that parts schematic for YOUR engine like show above. Read the parts names. Should give you a clue on what they do. Isn't 92145 the ACR release spring?

slomo

Thanks all for the information.

Yes the battery does have a tough time turning it over.

For reference: When I said I was inexperienced; I should have said that I have no experience in small engine repair. I do not work in the industry.

I will focus on the ACR mechanism.

Does the smoke and fouled valves and plugs sound like rings? It seems a little odd that both cylinders would develop ring issues at the same time.

Thanks.

what color was the smoke? Blue-ish white?

Your bent pushrod problem may be caused by the valve guide working its way out of the head. When it moves far enough out, the rocker arm collides with it and the pushrod keeps on pushing, and...the pushrod is the weak link and bends.

The valve guide migration problem is assumed to be caused by high cylinder head temperature, caused by inadequate airflow, caused by not keeping the cylinder fins clean.

If you can, measure the distance that each valve guide is above the valve spring surface on the head. See if the one that keeps bending pushrods is higher than the rest.

edit: added the word "guide" to the first sentence.

cpurvis said:

Your bent pushrod problem may be caused by the valve working its way out of the head. When it moves far enough out, the rocker arm collides with it and the pushrod keeps on pushing, and...the pushrod is the weak link and bends.

The valve guide migration problem is assumed to be caused by high cylinder head temperature, caused by inadequate airflow, caused by not keeping the cylinder fins clean.

If you can, measure the distance that each valve guide is above the valve spring surface on the head. See if the one that keeps bending pushrods is higher than the rest.

Click to expand...

What was the part cpurvis about keeping the cylinder block cooling fins clean??

slomo

Some good points raised.

I had already come across the issue with the valve guide/seal being pushed out of position, and the relationship to running the motor hot with dirty fins and related. I carefully had previously inspected the valve seals with that in mind, and saw no indication of that issue. Also, we keep this husqvarna machine very clean, so I don't believe it has been running hot. I replaced the valve seals in this latest push rod fix.

Following the advice previously given: I disassembled the cam assembly today, and it all looks brand new. The parts breakdown looked exactly like the one posted earlier, but I was guided by my own version in the service manual I am referencing. The ACR spring was in place, and functioned properly by allowing the cam lobe ball bearings to retract upon startup. I have since reassembled it.

As for the smoke color; yes, it was blueish white.

Question: I mentioned the punched out push rod pocket on the block. Should the motor be able to run with the opening to the lower crank area of the case? I would think that it should be able to tolerate a little more oil splash up to the valve train area. Also, I saw a youtube video with a hillbilly hero mower motor mechanic with fake buck teeth that seemed to know his stuff. One of his videos showed the repair of a similar situation on a somewhat similar kawasaki engine where the push rod pinched through the pocket and then ended up in the lower case. He seemed to have just done the rod repair, opened the crank case to remove the rod bent in the shape of a "U", then reassembled it and ran with the pocket punched out.

Thanks.

Did you see any valve seats not seated in the head? The valves rest on the seat when the valve is closed. Might resemble a wedding ring like piece of steel.

White smoke means burning oil. Black or bluish means excess fuel.

Kinda hard for me to help as the wordage being used is not exactly what the parts are called.

You said in your first sentence valve guide/seal being pushed out. Did you mean valve seat? I think this is what you meant??

You mentioned you keep the H machine clean. Have you removed the blower/fan housing and cleaned all the dirt, oil, grass and bugs away from the cylinder block cooling fins? Some on the cylinder head also to keep the engine cool.





slomo

I stand corrected regarding the valve guide migration due to over heating.

The better description given here of the problem got me thinking: After making the distinction between the valve guide and the valve oil seal, I retrieved the failed head and accurately measured it with a plunge caliper. The twice bent rod valve had indeed migrated as described. It measured .040 higher than the other valve. I had previously only visually inspected it with the valve oil seal in place. Thanks for the insight.

I'll check the other head just to be safe.

Now I only have to figure out this smoking and apparent oil in the cylinders thing...along with the 180 psi compression.

Short of a ring issue, I'm at a loss.

I did read something describing similar symptoms from a clogged crank case breather valve. I'll take a look at that.

Thanks.

Slomo:

Sorry for any confusion regarding terminology. I was referring to the valve guides as the component that moved out of position due to excessive heat...which I recently acknowledged did, in fact, happen.

I lapped and dye-chemed the new valves when I installed them, and the valve seats looked good on final assembly.

Regarding the cleanliness of the machine: apparently I didn't clean is as well as I thought

I would describe the smoke as white to blue/white. I believe it was oil, not fuel.

Thanks.

What is the compression ratio for that engine? If it's like 8:1 or 8.5:1, 180 psi is way off. I would check cam timing if you have not. That much static compression should have like 11:1 compression. Most mowers are not even close to 11:1.

A valve rides IN a valve guide. Valve guide is pressed into the cylinder block.

Valve seal rides just below the small pencil like tip of the valve, on TOP of the valve guide. Valve keepers and spring retainer ride above the seal.

What is a "twice bent rod valve"? Are you talking about a push rod?

0.040" higher meaning the valve seat is 0.040" deeper INTO the cylinder head?

Take us a ton of pictures so I can help you more. Fire up Windows Paint and edit the files. Point at the parts so I can see what you are talking about.

slomo

Rocket Surgeon said:

Slomo:

Sorry for any confusion regarding terminology. I was referring to the valve guides as the component that moved out of position due to excessive heat...which I recently acknowledged did, in fact, happen.

I lapped and dye-chemed the new valves when I installed them, and the valve seats looked good on final assembly.

Regarding the cleanliness of the machine: apparently I didn't clean is as well as I thought

I would describe the smoke as white to blue/white. I believe it was oil, not fuel.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

I want pictures of that filthy engine block please LOL.

Valve guides, yes, those moving out of the head, most of the time caused by filthy cooling fins. Engine gets HOT from all that oil and dirt choking the fins. That causes parts to heat up and expand.

slomo

The Kawasaki shroud is very easy to remove to clean the fins. I use a leaf blower on the engine and mower every time I use it. I leave the engine running and blow down through the screen. And I still remove the shroud about every 25 hours to make sure nothing remains in there.

slomo said:

0.040" higher meaning the valve seat is 0.040" deeper INTO the cylinder head?



slomo

Click to expand...

No, the valve guide moves by itself.

cpurvis said:

No, the valve guide moves by itself.

Click to expand...

I'm aware of that. I was trying to make sense, in my head, what the OP was stating. So he meant the guide moved 0.040" out from where it belongs, I get it.

slomo

To clarify: the valve guide on the valve that bent the valve push rod sits 0.040 in. above the height of the other valve guide in the same head, measured with the valve oil seals removed. Anytime I said "rod", I meant "valve push rod". Anytime I said "guide" I meant "valve guide". When I said "twice bent rod" I was referring to the valve push rod which, on two separate occasions, was found to be bent. In both instances the valve push rod was replaced.

I believe the bent valve push rod issue is now resolved. Thanks for that.

Dunno what pictures you'd like to see. There is no dirt or clogged fins to show, as the engine was pressure washed when removed from the mower prior to disassembly. The head with the out of place valve guide has been replaced with a new head. Two of the four valves have been replaced, and all four have been lapped prior to installation, with the valve clearance set to 0.004 in.

Regarding the 180 psi compression:

Is it possible that I am measuring the compression improperly? I'm removing one spark plug and screwing in my trusty Harbor Freight gauge. I've been measuring it with the carb removed. (not removed for the test, it just happened to be off).

The service manual says to open to full throttle and full choke, but frankly I don't see how those directions would affect the measurement.

With battery disconnected, I crank it until the pressure gauge stops increasing...per the service guide instructions.

It's also curious that the Husqvarna service center said that 180 psi was ok. Personally I've never heard of an engine with compression that high.

Slomo:Google says the FR691V has a compression ratio of 8.2:1.

Rocket Surgeon said:

To clarify: the valve guide on the valve that bent the valve push rod sits 0.040 in. above the height of the other valve guide in the same head, measured with the valve oil seals removed. Anytime I said "rod", I meant "valve push rod". Anytime I said "guide" I meant "valve guide". When I said "twice bent rod" I was referring to the valve push rod which, on two separate occasions, was found to be bent. In both instances the valve push rod was replaced.

I believe the bent valve push rod issue is now resolved. Thanks for that.

Dunno what pictures you'd like to see. There is no dirt or clogged fins to show, as the engine was pressure washed when removed from the mower prior to disassembly. The head with the out of place valve guide has been replaced with a new head. Two of the four valves have been replaced, and all four have been lapped prior to installation, with the valve clearance set to 0.004 in.

Click to expand...

So the engine "was' pressure washed. Which tells all of us here, that engine was filthy. You probably washed off the evidence.

So you have a new head installed and valves are set. Should run like new.

slomo

Rocket Surgeon said:

Regarding the 180 psi compression:

Is it possible that I am measuring the compression improperly? I'm removing one spark plug and screwing in my trusty Harbor Freight gauge. I've been measuring it with the carb removed. (not removed for the test, it just happened to be off).

The service manual says to open to full throttle and full choke, but frankly I don't see how those directions would affect the measurement.

With battery disconnected, I crank it until the pressure gauge stops increasing...per the service guide instructions.

It's also curious that the Husqvarna service center said that 180 psi was ok. Personally I've never heard of an engine with compression that high.

Slomo:Google says the FR691V has a compression ratio of 8.2:1.

Click to expand...

Sounds like you measured the compression correctly. Wondering if that gauge is functioning proper? 180PSI sounds like your combustion chambers are full of carbon bumping up the static compression. I would think, your engine should read around 80 to 150psi max. Have you checked your cam timing?

Should be full throttle and NO choke. If Husky said 180psi was good then you are golden. Again you see those readings in racing engines with a lot of compression.

slomo

Engine was not filthy, just a little dirty. The fins all looked brand new and have never been clogged. It has been established that the valve guide softened and relocated, so at some lever it overheated.

I think we are done with the valve issues.

Per the previous posts: after replacement of the valve push rod, the engine does not seem to run smoothly, has white to blue-white smoke out of the exhaust. Seems to have fouled wet plugs. The wet seems to be oil. The compression seems unnaturally high.

Any ideas?

Rocket Surgeon said:

Engine was not filthy, just a little dirty. The fins all looked brand new and have never been clogged. It has been established that the valve guide softened and relocated, so at some lever it overheated.

I think we are done with the valve issues.

Per the previous posts: after replacement of the valve push rod, the engine does not seem to run smoothly, has white to blue-white smoke out of the exhaust. Seems to have fouled wet plugs. The wet seems to be oil. The compression seems unnaturally high.

Any ideas?

Click to expand...

To add on more fuel to the fire, it's just a push rod. It doesn't actually push on any valves directly.

So you now have an oil issue. Head gasket good? Head torqued proper? Engine block BREATHER hose going to carb, clean and clear? Valves adjusted proper? Some engines require the piston to be 1/4" INTO the bore when setting valves. Check your engine manual.

Open your oil dipstick tube with the engine running. Just loosen it and let it sit on the threads. Tell us if the engine is trying to puff or blow the dipstick up out of the oil fill tube.

Next stop would be piston and rings.

slomo

Slomo: The only timing check that I am aware of on this engine is ensuring the alignment of the punch mark on the cam gear and the crankshaft gear. I did check that and they are aligned. All gear teeth look like new.

I don't see how the ACR would affect the compression test anyway, since I would think the cam balls would retract during the test, but as I said, the cam and ACR seem fine.

I'll jerry-rig up a test for that quality HF compression gauge. Based on past experience, I've sworn not to buy any HF crap with a meter or gauge in it. It's always a mistake. I'm constantly walking the line between by own cheapness and the complete and utter lack of quality at HF. Guess they count on that. I have a second failed mower/atv lift in the truck awaiting return to them right now.

I checked the crown of the pistons for fouling and build up, but they seemed ok. I guess to be sure I'll pull the pistons and check the rings.

The kawasaki engine service manual states yada yada yada if the compression is out of specification...and then lists no specification within the manual. I think I read online somewhere in a forum that the upper range should be around 120.

Slomo:

I know the valve push rod doesn't push directly on the valve, however it is the push rod associated with the valve. I assume you're messing with me.

Head gaskets = brand new
Heads torqued to spec (oh god, its a HF torque wrench)
Checking the breather hose/port tonight, will advise.
Valve clearance adjusted to spec. = .004 in. (you don't actually adjust the valves, rather you adjust the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem, he he...my turn!)
I can't do the dipstick test yet, as the motor is disassembled on the bench. Will keep in mind to do after re-installation.
The service manual didn't mention pushing the pistons into the bore.

I will pull the pistons and check the rings.

Thanks.

Have you checked the flywheel key for proper alignment?

Rocket Surgeon said:

Slomo:

I know the valve push rod doesn't push directly on the valve, however it is the push rod associated with the valve. I assume you're messing with me.

Head gaskets = brand new
Heads torqued to spec (oh god, its a HF torque wrench)
Checking the breather hose/port tonight, will advise.
Valve clearance adjusted to spec. = .004 in. (you don't actually adjust the valves, rather you adjust the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem, he he...my turn!)
I can't do the dipstick test yet, as the motor is disassembled on the bench. Will keep in mind to do after re-installation.
The service manual didn't mention pushing the pistons into the bore.

I will pull the pistons and check the rings.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

2-chey' buddy. You got me on the valve clearance thing. Time to clean up my game LOL.

You might have some stuck rings ON the pistons. That could burn some oil. Make sure you have a proper ring gap. Now you got me double looking at what I type LOL. Making sure "I" send out the proper terminology.

slomo

I have not checked the flywheel key for proper alignment, nor do I know how to do that. I'm not sure how a flywheel key could have become unaligned.

Tonight I checked the HF compression gauge by pressurizing it with my compressor, and it agreed to the psi with the gauge on the compressor. YES, the compressor is from HF as well, so I suppose a conspiracy between HF suppliers is still a possibility.

I removed both pistons, and they both, along with the rings, look as though they have never been run.

I don't know where to go from here.

Tomorrow I'll disassemble the crankcase breather assembly and clean with brake cleaner, then I'll reassemble the motor.

If it still has problems, I'll shoot myself in the head...or buy a new mower.

Slomo:

Thanks for you last post. At least we can have some fun.

Per your last post, I've been through the rings, and they appear fine. I might just let the 10 acres of grass grow...how bad could that be?

I do sincerely appreciate your effort.

it's simple, the flywheel key sits in a keyway on the crankshaft, and fits in a slot in the flywheel, if the engine was ever put under a heavy load quickly, or came to a sudden stop that key can break and cause improper ignition timing and running issues.
Probably have to remove the flywheel nut , and you should see that slot cut into the flywheel, the key should make a perfect square in the slot.

Everything you are checking "looks" to be legit.

8.2 compression sounds normal in a mower engine. You are reading 180psi which equates 12.25:1 static compression. You take atmospheric pressure at a normal rate of 14.7 times your static compression ratio. So 14.7 x 8.2 = 120psi. This is what you should be seeing. 14.7 x 12.25 = 180psi. I know Kawi's are strong but man. Try to borrow another compression gauge. Kinda pointless as you need to get the oil usage under control.

slomo

I can't say that I understand the Kawasaki compression release. At all. But like any engine with a functioning compression release, the numbers you obtain with a compression tester are suspect. They should be LOWER than expected, though, not higher. If there is a lot of oil in the cylinder, that might cause a high reading? Bottom line (for me) is that I would not worry about the unexplained high cylinder pressure. Compression gauges are mainly to answer the question "Do I need to dig into this thing?" and you're already there. Visual inspection of the internals will find what problems there may be.

There are only a few ways for oil to get in the combustion chamber--it has to get past the rings/piston, a faulty head gasket or through the valve guides, or through the crankcase ventilation system? That's all I can think of. Check the end gap on your rings, verify they are correctly installed on the piston. Replace the head gaskets. I can't speak to the Kawasaki CCV system; not familiar with it.

Most freshly rebuilt engines will smoke for a bit, burning up the oil used for assembly. Don't give up too quickly because it smokes on first start-up after rebuild.

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

Rocket Surgeon said:

I don't see how the ACR would affect the compression test anyway, since I would think the cam balls would retract during the test, but as I said, the cam and ACR seem fine.

Click to expand...

The ACR is active at cranking speeds then once the engine running it retracts. This why there is an ACR so the compression is less at cranking speeds as to not overload the starter. The service manual does states a minimum compression level with a working ACR.

440 kPa (64 psi) @ Engine Oil Temperature 50 ∼ 60°C (122 ∼ 144°F), Cranking Speed 450 rpm/5 Seconds

I threw my HFT compression tester and brought an Actron tester as I needed the 10mm adaptor and the fact the Schrader valve is at the cylinder end so it opens without having pressure the hose first.

Lawn Addict:
Righto, I had a brain-fart regarding the flywheel key. Upon disassembly I had already noticed that the flywheel key was in the key-way.

Also, you correctly quote the line from the service manual regarding compression, however it specifies the minimum compression. My previous comment referred to the fact that the manual addresses solutions for the compression being being too high but, as far as I could find, did not provide a specification for pressure that is considered too high.

My comment may not have been clear regarding the effect of the ACR on the compression. I understand the basic function, but I would expect that, at best, it would cause a lower compression reading if it is venting the cylinders during starting. Even if the ACR was not functioning, and the malfunction prevented the cylinders from venting, the compression would simply read the maximum compression. If it was malfunctioning and it prevented the valves from fully closing, the the compression would read lower than spec. Regardless, it seems to function properly on the bench. The control spring which governs the operation was found to be in place.

I hooked the compression tester directly to an air compressor and it accurately measured the line pressure, set at 125 psi. If there is a problem with my compression measurement, it seems likely it is with my process, though as near as I can tell I am doing it adequately.

Slomo:
I agree with all comments regarding the 180 psi. The service manual mentions crusting around the crown of the pistons as a possible cause for excessive compression, though it does not say what compression is considered excessive. I pulled both pistons and they, along with the cylinders and rings, are in great condition. I'll look at the crankcase breather today.

Thanks all.

So if your gauge is good and you see 180 psi, your ACR is definitely not working. As well as the stellar PSI number being over the top. I would agree at cranking only, you should see something like 64psi to less than 100'ish psi?? Running on a fully warmed up engine, around 120psi sounds good. At cranking your ACR will open a valve DUMPING compression to start the engine as you guys have discussed. Excess oil in the bore shouldn't cause 180psi. I would say 120-150 max psi. The oil would restore any poor ring sealing action. Clearly you have good rings rocking 180psi.

slomo

Seems as though the few Kawasaki's I've done a compression test on, at cranking they were between 90 and 110 psi. Cold.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Seems as though the few Kawasaki's I've done a compression test on, at cranking they were between 90 and 110 psi. Cold.

Click to expand...

Those numbers sound normal. Warming the engine, with excess oil in the bore, one shouldn't see 180psi. It's only an 8.2:1 motor.

To get 180psi, the cam timing MUST be advanced nicely away from stock.

slomo

I wish I was comforted by the high compression but I know from experience nothing comes for free. The service manual clearly states a compression ratio of 8.2:1...and that doesn't add up to 180 psi.

I checked the crankcase breather (valve?) and it is completely open both sucking and blowing on both the port that connects to the crankcase and the port that connects to the carburetor...does that seem right?

Rocket Surgeon said:

I wish I was comforted by the high compression but I know from experience nothing comes for free. The service manual clearly states a compression ratio of 8.2:1...and that doesn't add up to 180 psi.

I checked the crankcase breather (valve?) and it is completely open both sucking and blowing on both the port that connects to the crankcase and the port that connects to the carburetor...does that seem right?

Click to expand...

Yes your breather sounds healthy.

slomo

I measured the Cam Lobes, and they measured: 1.150", 1.150", 1.154", 1.150". The Service Manual shows a limit of 1.156".

This is slightly below the service limit, is this close enough?

The Crank Case Cover has no Gasket and relies on a soft sealant.

What sealant is recommended?

I use Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker on all valve and sump covers that use it.

Just make sure the contact surfaces are oil free and remain oil for at least 12 hrs to allow for proper curing times. Yes I know the Prematex tube says 30 minutes but had the sealant to leak until I went with the 12 hrs time frame.

As for the camshaft personally I would replace it but just my opinion.

Most RTV goos state 24 hour cure time. The Right Stuff has a quicker setup time. Read the label on your choice of goo.

Machined flanges require an anaerobic sealant. RTV will not cure proper in this application.

slomo

the way i do it is apply sealer to the cover, install the cover, install two bolts to help guide into the holes straight, i then install all bolts with a nut driver and let it sit for 1 hour, then torque to spec. then wait at least 24 hours before refilling with fluid.

Scrubcadet10 said:

the way i do it is apply sealer to the cover, install the cover, install two bolts to help guide into the holes straight, i then install all bolts with a nut driver and let it sit for 1 hour, then torque to spec. then wait at least 24 hours before refilling with fluid.

Click to expand...

Roger that. Finger tight on say two bolts for a few hours then torque to spec.

slomo

Anybody know what the cam lobes measure out of the box? The service manual, as usual, only gives the minimum value.

Rocket Surgeon said:

I measured the Cam Lobes, and they measured: 1.150", 1.150", 1.154", 1.150". The Service Manual shows a limit of 1.156".

This is slightly below the service limit, is this close enough?

Click to expand...

It's below the serviceable limit. Break out the Visa.

slomo

Agree with slomo... The service limit is the service L I M I T..

I see that the cup and six ball bearings, that I previously asked about, are the governor mechanism.

I note that neither the crank case cover and/or cam installation proceedures mention any special process to engage the two "fingers" on the governor shaft into the cam shaft.

Is it correct that the crank cover is just set on top of the crank case without a procedure to engage the governor's "fingers"?

Thanks.

I doubt it. When you took the cover off, did you have to 'disengage' the fingers? I would think so, because the governor has to be able to pull as well as push the linkage to the throttle shaft unless either the 'push' or 'pull' is taken care of by a spring or something similar.

cpurvis said:

I doubt it. When you took the cover off, did you have to 'disengage' the fingers? I would think so, because the governor has to be able to pull as well as push the linkage to the throttle shaft unless either the 'push' or 'pull' is taken care of by a spring or something similar.

Click to expand...

Governor can only push the spring between the throttle & governor pushes .

Thanks, bert.

When I removed the crank case cover, the cam + governor assembply just lifted out of the case. The fingered governor plate stayed attached to the governor control lever, which is part of the cover.

I completed reassembly of the motor today, fired it up, and the behavior has not changed...still lots of white smoke.

Will look at the valves tomorrow. Grrrrrr.

I previously asked about the possibility of the valve push rod pocket with a hole in the bottom (next to the tappet),that had the bottom knocked out by the loose push rod, allowing enough oil to get into the valve cover to enable it to leak through the valve shaft seals and into the cylinder.

Didn't get a response when asked....any takers now?

Could the muffler have gotten oil in it?

Was this the engine that had 180psi in compression? And the piston was DOWN in the bore with the cam dots lined up? Didn't want to go through all the pages again. It was a Kawasaki FC150 wasn't it?

I just thought of something. When you RETARD the camshaft, you make it easier to start the engine. It dumps cylinder pressure. So was that piston position so many degrees AFTER TDC with the cam dots inlline? That didn't make sense. TDC is TDC. I bet once at running speeds, the cam moves back to normal TDC with the cam dots inline. That final condition would restore cylinder pressure and good running power. What do you guys think? That funky ACR must be adjusting cam timing???

slomo

cpuvis: There is no oil in the muffler, except what is coming from the cylinder.

slomo: Yes, this is the 180 psi compression engine, a Kawasaki FR691V. The ACR does not adjust the timing rather, it temporarily opens one of the valves on each cylinder to reduce the compression...not sure whether it is intake or exhaust. The ACR is a simply weight system that allows a ball bearing to protrude above the normal cam lobe height at low startup rpm, therby bumping the valve open when it would normally be closed. Once the cam speed throws the weight out, a channel opens up to retract the ball bearings so that the tappet follows the normal cam lobe profile. The ACR appears to be operating normally There is no mechanism to retard the camshaft, as it is geared directly to the crankshaft at a 2:1 ratio (4 stroke). The two gears have always been aligned, and I ensured they remained so when I reassembled the engine.

I removed the muffler to eliminate the mixing of the exhaust gasses from the two cylinders, and only the number two cylinder is smoking. This is the cylinder with the hole knocked in the valve push rod pocket (next to the top of the tappet), caused by the bent valve push rod. However, I don't see how any oil coming through the hole is getting through the valve stem seals into the cylinder.

I will look for a shop capable of repairing the valve push rod pocket, if possible, this week. If unable to find, I'll shop for a replacement block and rebuild the motor.

Fyi, here is a link to the hillbilly mechanic video that I mentioned earlier. He repairs a similar problem: bent push rod with the punched out pocket. Provided in case you want to review it to see the punched out pocket I've been describing.

Hillbilly mechanic.

I was trying to find the post where the cam dots lined up and the piston was down into the bore. No mechanism to retard the camshaft, check.

slomo

slomo: I'm not quite sure what you are saying in your post, but I did ensure that the crank and cam punch marks aligned.

If is curious to me that, despite multiple posts regarding the hole punched in the valve push rod pocket, and many kind attempts to help with my problem engine, no one has commented on the possibility of the oil coming through the punched hole.

A local machine shop that I have a relationship with (45 year old track hoe....needs a lot of parts work) is interested in fixing the pocket, so I'll tear the motor down again tomorrow and take the case in. If unsuccessful, I see a new OEM crank case is $334 on ebay, so I'll grab one and move forward. Perhaps it will even have the expected compression ratio of 120 psi

Thanks for the help.