John Deere LA110 will not start

[bertsmobile1]

I rather think your float valve is not working properly causing the engine to flood.
After that it could be the flywheel is loose enough for the timing key to have broken & the engine gets out of time.
An exhaust valve with excessive clearance can also cause these symptoms.
As mechanical things are easier to check than fuel / electrical ones, I would start by verifing the valve lash.
If that is OK, pull the retaining bolt off the flywheel and check that the 2 halves of the key shaft line up EXACTLY to make a square.
The take the float bowl off and check that the float valve stops the flow of fuel before the float touches on the carb.

And you will need soem new clean & dry spark plugs.
Once many of them have been fuel wette they need to be burned off to clean them properly or the spark will just run down the side of the electrode insulator rather than jump the gap.

 

[Leever2000]

Mine runs for about 15 to 20 mins then starts to sputter then dies and no restart. How do i test the rectifier?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Measuer & post the following
Battery voltage engine off .
Battery voltage engine WFO
Battery voltage engine WFO & PTO on

 

[Rivets]

It would also help if you would post all engine numbers, so we could see what you are looking at. Might even be able to find you a service manual.

 

[Leever2000]

I rather think your float valve is not working properly causing the engine to flood.
After that it could be the flywheel is loose enough for the timing key to have broken & the engine gets out of time.
An exhaust valve with excessive clearance can also cause these symptoms.
As mechanical things are easier to check than fuel / electrical ones, I would start by verifing the valve lash.
If that is OK, pull the retaining bolt off the flywheel and check that the 2 halves of the key shaft line up EXACTLY to make a square.
The take the float bowl off and check that the float valve stops the flow of fuel before the float touches on the carb.

And you will need soem new clean & dry spark plugs.
Once many of them have been fuel wette they need to be burned off to clean them properly or the spark will just run down the side of the electrode insulator rather than jump the gap.

The more I step back and look at this problem I remember the original problem was a spark plug and the original plug was definitely not wet with gasoline so the wet plug happened after realizing the original plug was no good. Something happened after replacing the plug. The original problem was running rough but it was running and in the process of replacing the plug the new problem came about.

Would the float valve problem cause the mower to run for a while then sputter out and die (carb bowl fills up with gas and smothers the mower) ? The float valve problem sounds like the problem but I haven't even touched the carburetor. This problem came out of no where so I will give a extensive look over because maybe i yanked or pulled on something that caused the issue with the carb flooding.

 

[Leever2000]

It would also help if you would post all engine numbers, so we could see what you are looking at. Might even be able to find you a service manual.

I will get the engine numbers and post up here later when I get home from work - It is a Briggs & Stratton engine - where will I find he numbers?

 

[Leever2000]

see 2 attached pics.Do they have the right model info or is there something else?

 

[Rivets]

You may have to take off the green cover to find the engine numbers. You should find a model, type and code number. Also look on the metal guard over the muffler.

 

[Smokeeater]

see 2 attached pics.Do they have the right model info or is there something else?

On a JD, it usually looks like a big white sticker. Could be under seat or on back tail of mower.

As well I think it's a needle and seat issue in the carb after reading everything

 

[Rivets]

Look on the valve cover.