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JD LA110 turns over but will not start. Smells flooded so replaced spark plug (needed replacing anyways) still does not start.

Check for a spark .

I checked for spark and had a strong spark. But while checking for spark noticed some of the things I did yesterday when problem was realized. I removed the plastic shroud to see if plug wire was degraded and when I removing the shroud I also disconnected the fuel line. Then went out got a new spark plug and put back together but did not reconnect the fuel line. Anyways when checking for spark this morning noticed a strong spark and then did a once over on all that did and noticed the fuel line disconnected so reconnected and started right up. I guess what I was reminded of when troubleshooting is to slow down and recheck some of the more obvious issues. thanks for the help and all is good in the neighborhood! It was the spark plug all along.

Seems like I spoke to soon but cut the lawn with no problems then turned off to take a break and then went to start up again about 20 minutes later and back to the same problem in the beginning turns over but no start.

I have replaced the spark plug and the battery is fully charged. Started ran and cut grass for about 20 minutes then sputtered and died. Tried to restart and no start, even tried some starting fluid didn't even fire (definitely no spark). It has been sitting since yesterday when last running going to try again here shortly. Thinking it will run for a while then die, have there been any issues when LA110 gets warn that the ignition circuit just doesn't produce spark?

The lawnmower started and ran for about 5 minutes and died. Sprayed starting fluid in the carb and not even an attempt to start. pulled plug and checked fro spark and nice strong spark. Reinstalled plug and no start. Whats up? No start when plug installed and definitely a spark when not installed.

If I have spark and fuel what ignition parts have the highest probability of failing?

Have you checked the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb? If it is not working properly it may be shutting the fuel getting from the carb to the cylinder.

I picked up a spark tester this AM at HF to see if there was a difference. I hooked up the tester and the JD mower started right up so I cut the grass while it was running good and about 10-15 minutes later it started to sputter and then died. Tried to restart and no start. Hooked up spark tester and the spark was not as bright but there was a spark. Pulled plug and it was wet and smelled like gas.

Rivets said:

Have you checked the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb? If it is not working properly it may be shutting the fuel getting from the carb to the cylinder.

Click to expand...

how do i check the fuel solenoid? Does the solenoid fail frequently?

Solenoids rarely fail, they get gummed up and then will not retract or retract fully.
You test them initially by listening for the click when you turn the ignition on & off.
You do a proper test by pulling it off and watching the solenoid retract.
Most of them will work on any voltage over 6 Volts.
However if the voltage drops lower than that the solenoid will close so the mower stops.
This is the most common thing I see and that of course is not a solenoid problem but a charging problem.
The other thing they do not like is getting AC so when a rectifier fails you can get AC which causes it to flutter.
They need the stable 12V power supply which is why you rarely see one on a pull start engine

I rather think your float valve is not working properly causing the engine to flood.
After that it could be the flywheel is loose enough for the timing key to have broken & the engine gets out of time.
An exhaust valve with excessive clearance can also cause these symptoms.
As mechanical things are easier to check than fuel / electrical ones, I would start by verifing the valve lash.
If that is OK, pull the retaining bolt off the flywheel and check that the 2 halves of the key shaft line up EXACTLY to make a square.
The take the float bowl off and check that the float valve stops the flow of fuel before the float touches on the carb.

And you will need soem new clean & dry spark plugs.
Once many of them have been fuel wette they need to be burned off to clean them properly or the spark will just run down the side of the electrode insulator rather than jump the gap.

Mine runs for about 15 to 20 mins then starts to sputter then dies and no restart. How do i test the rectifier?

Measuer & post the following
Battery voltage engine off .
Battery voltage engine WFO
Battery voltage engine WFO & PTO on

It would also help if you would post all engine numbers, so we could see what you are looking at. Might even be able to find you a service manual.

bertsmobile1 said:

I rather think your float valve is not working properly causing the engine to flood.
After that it could be the flywheel is loose enough for the timing key to have broken & the engine gets out of time.
An exhaust valve with excessive clearance can also cause these symptoms.
As mechanical things are easier to check than fuel / electrical ones, I would start by verifing the valve lash.
If that is OK, pull the retaining bolt off the flywheel and check that the 2 halves of the key shaft line up EXACTLY to make a square.
The take the float bowl off and check that the float valve stops the flow of fuel before the float touches on the carb.

And you will need soem new clean & dry spark plugs.
Once many of them have been fuel wette they need to be burned off to clean them properly or the spark will just run down the side of the electrode insulator rather than jump the gap.

Click to expand...

The more I step back and look at this problem I remember the original problem was a spark plug and the original plug was definitely not wet with gasoline so the wet plug happened after realizing the original plug was no good. Something happened after replacing the plug. The original problem was running rough but it was running and in the process of replacing the plug the new problem came about.

Would the float valve problem cause the mower to run for a while then sputter out and die (carb bowl fills up with gas and smothers the mower) ? The float valve problem sounds like the problem but I haven't even touched the carburetor. This problem came out of no where so I will give a extensive look over because maybe i yanked or pulled on something that caused the issue with the carb flooding.

Rivets said:

It would also help if you would post all engine numbers, so we could see what you are looking at. Might even be able to find you a service manual.

Click to expand...

I will get the engine numbers and post up here later when I get home from work - It is a Briggs & Stratton engine - where will I find he numbers?

see 2 attached pics.Do they have the right model info or is there something else?

You may have to take off the green cover to find the engine numbers. You should find a model, type and code number. Also look on the metal guard over the muffler.

Leever2000 said:

see 2 attached pics.Do they have the right model info or is there something else?

Click to expand...

On a JD, it usually looks like a big white sticker. Could be under seat or on back tail of mower.

As well I think it's a needle and seat issue in the carb after reading everything

Look on the valve cover.

I like to help people .
However it is hard to do if they will not co-operate.
Back in post #12 you asked how to test the regulator & in post # 13 you were asked to take 3 voltage measurements .
Can not seem to find your reply.

I do appreciate the help but all of the voltage checks, model number/part number etc... was sort of secondary after I dumped some fuel system cleaner down the throat of the carb (you mentioned in a earlier message that the fuel solenoid could be gummed up) and let it set over night last week.
The next day I planned to do all of the voltage checks etc... (Saturday) and was about to do it and I started the lawnmower to move it out of the shed to take voltage measurements and retrieve the model/part number and respond back but the mower was running so well I didn't want to waste time so I cut as much of the grass that I could and the lawnmower ran out of gas. Thinking that if I put gas in and tried to start it wouldn't run again but it started right up and I finished cutting the grass.
Yesterday I started the lawnmower with no issues and today I plan to start up again run. I'm in disbelief thinking that the mowers problem was just some scum in the fuel system and that the mower is still starting with no issues. If I run into the same issues again I will check the voltages and get the model and part number.

I didn't really want to start taking things apart because the problem just arose without any apparent reason other that the spark plug was fowled and I replaced it.

Again thanks for all of the help! Greatly Appreciated!

Rivets said:

Have you checked the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb? If it is not working properly it may be shutting the fuel getting from the carb to the cylinder.

Click to expand...

bertsmobile1 said:

Measuer & post the following
Battery voltage engine off .
Battery voltage engine WFO
Battery voltage engine WFO & PTO on

Click to expand...

Leever2000 said:

Mine runs for about 15 to 20 mins then starts to sputter then dies and no restart. How do i test the rectifier?

Click to expand...

Same thing has happened again. Mower ran fine from last year until now. Right in the middle of cutting grass mower died and would not start. Pulled plug and strong smell of gas (flooded.). Time to check voltages - What is WFO?

I took some voltage readings -
Measuer & post the following
Battery voltage engine off - 12.48 VDC then tried to start but would barely turn over and would not start measured voltage across battery again and it was 11.2.
Battery voltage engine WFO - What is WFO?
Battery voltage engine WFO & PTO on

Take a voltage reading at the battery with the key In the start position and report back.

WFO = WIDE FLAT OUT
I am thinking the alternator is not keeping up with the current draw while mowing.

the voltage was 12.2 VDC when key in start position
Noticed engine would barely turn over so charged battery over night and hooked back up still would barely turn over. So took battery and had checked at auto parts store and very low CCA 85. So bought new battery installed and would turn over very strong but would not even try to start. (I also replaced air filter and spark plug). tomorrow will check for spark.