Impressions: newGT48XLSi

[motoman]

Actually it is quite easy because all of the other parts are the same .
The first models just used a pigtail to connect the new switch to the old loom .
Next year they used a new loom but again the only different thing is the connection to the switch
The latter looms have things like a 2 pin plug for the brake switch because they don't use the other 2 prongs that were part of the cranking power circuit .
Once you have found the correct lom it is about 1 hour to run the new wires .
Some will need the mounting hole modified, some do not .

That is good to know. I wonder how many owners are down because of this switch?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Lots never made it out of warranty which is why they reverted to the key switch after around 3 years
I replace 1 or 2 switches every year and do about the same number of conversions
I make sure the costs are about the same either way to encourage replacing the switch with a key which is better for the customer in the long run.
Just make sure you get the correct key switch for your mower which s why tou need to check the switch that was used before the stupid switch and after the stupid switch.
Usually they are the same part number but some times the MIR system changed to a key switch control .

 

[motoman]

Lots never made it out of warranty which is why they reverted to the key switch after around 3 years
I replace 1 or 2 switches every year and do about the same number of conversions
I make sure the costs are about the same either way to encourage replacing the switch with a key which is better for the customer in the long run.
Just make sure you get the correct key switch for your mower which s why tou need to check the switch that was used before the stupid switch and after the stupid switch.
Usually they are the same part number but some times the MIR system changed to a key switch control .

Good info...and now more blather...My 'chine cost $3K new which seems down from orig sticker of $5K. The online cost of the locker now ranges $1800-$2000 , with one repair vendor in WI soliciting "freight in" and will quote to repair a unit. What brands besides Husq and Deere use it? At purchase this unit seemed to fill the gap between riders and compact tractors. It is a gas hog and I do not really need the heavy , welded, armor plated deck. If a "bargain" unit is found with tranny problem,AND you are handy , the tranny is not difficult to repair.

 

[Oldaarpy]

Actually it is quite easy because all of the other parts are the same .
The first models just used a pigtail to connect the new switch to the old loom .
Next year they used a new loom but again the only different thing is the connection to the switch
The latter looms have things like a 2 pin plug for the brake switch because they don't use the other 2 prongs that were part of the cranking power circuit .
Once you have found the correct lom it is about 1 hour to run the new wires .
Some will need the mounting hole modified, some do not .

Yikes! I don't even know what a loom is! Can a dealer do this....and any ballpark figure on cost?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Yes and no idea I am in Australia
Take it to an off brand shop because a lot of franchise contracts would prevent the tech doing this.
A loom is simply the name for the wires and it is just a matter of unplugging one & plugging in the other

 

[motoman]

The new locker switch is in and working in the rt side coffee cup cavity. It is a simple on-off-on motor switch DPDT, $6, but to use it requires jumpering diagonally across the switch for 12v and ground. It is ac rated which means it may be less "robust" than dc - rated , but not worried based on unreliability of $ 50 VDD1 sw's. The Deutsch connector pins demand a dedicated crimp tool which I did not have . Lot's of labor here . Re non-conductive film on switch contacts...I always blasted 100 psi air under cowl to clean off dust...hmm perhaps driving dust into harness and sw openings?

For arpy- plenty of new smart sw's online around $270. It may be an even cost trade off between "trying" another smart switch and going "dumb switch" if you do not have experience with harness, etc. There are "pigtail" harnesses shown on several parts stores for GT 48 and GT 52 models (are they the correct ones?), but finding anyone to make the conversion might be difficult ,and shop rates could quickly equal or exceed the cost of a replacemnt smart switch...a fraught decision.

 

[Oldaarpy]

The new locker switch is in and working in the rt side coffee cup cavity. It is a simple on-off-on motor switch DPDT, $6, but to use it requires jumpering diagonally across the switch for 12v and ground. It is ac rated which means it may be less "robust" than dc - rated , but not worried based on unreliability of $ 50 VDD1 sw's. The Deutsch connector pins demand a dedicated crimp tool which I did not have . Lot's of labor here . Re non-conductive film on switch contacts...I always blasted 100 psi air under cowl to clean off dust...hmm perhaps driving dust into harness and sw openings?

For arpy- plenty of new smart sw's online around $270. It may be an even cost trade off between "trying" another smart switch and going "dumb switch" if you do not have experience with harness, etc. There are "pigtail" harnesses shown on several parts stores for GT 48 and GT 52 models (are they the correct ones?), but finding anyone to make the conversion might be difficult ,and shop rates could quickly equal or exceed the cost of a replacemnt smart switch...a fraught decision.

I bought my tractor in '15 and I believe it was a '14 model. The smart switch quit one month before the warranty ran out and the dealer honored the warranty. I think the cost for the stinking thing was around $100 back then and thank goodness it's been fine since (KOW). Hard to believe the price of them now! I know it's just waiting to conk out!

 

[motoman]

I bought my tractor in '15 and I believe it was a '14 model. The smart switch quit one month before the warranty ran out and the dealer honored the warranty. I think the cost for the stinking thing was around $100 back then and thank goodness it's been fine since (KOW). Hard to believe the price of them now! I know it's just waiting to conk out!

Guess I have been lucky.

 

[motoman]

First replacement of deck (blade) belt . Lots of China replacements on line from $19. Bought $75 oem from same source as ground drive belt previously replaced. Noticed neighbor has Husky mower similar to mine on flatbed haul out. Likely costly repair or even maintenace. I feel for those who cannot fix.

 

[motoman]

First replacement of deck (blade) belt . Lots of China replacements on line from $19. Bought $75 oem from same source as ground drive belt previously replaced. Noticed neighbor has Husky mower similar to mine on flatbed haul out. Likely costly repair or even maintenace. I feel for those who cannot fix.

Just as with the ground drive belt this deck belt a PIA for me. It is in and works well, but (surprise) the owners manual instruction of 3/8 breaker bar to relieve idler pulley tension did not work (for me). The new oem belt is very stiff and with deck in lowered position some slack is lost. A second set of hands might help or overnite stretching . Even a 1/2 breaker with pipe extension did not allow final pulley engagement. Finally , installed belt with no spring , loosened spring-coupled tension bolt down to last 5 threads in locking nut , fished through its hole, then used a heavy gage wire hook to pull the spring onto the banjo portion of special bolt. Then the nut is tightened to its original position, in this case .887" of exposed threads. A fix would be find a similar grade 5 bolt with enough threads to extend the adjustment another 1/2." This would call for drillling this new bolt head or its shaft with a hole to accommodate the spring hook diameter or to ? weld? This "simple" belt task probably defeats many owners.